Tuberoses of L’Artisan Parfumeur : Nuit de Tubereuse

The lush complexity of tuberose is bewitching: the intense sensuality of its aroma; the surprising layering of green, mineral and creamy notes; the contrast between wet petally and ripe fruit facets. Although perplexing and challenging, this flower offers a rich source of inspiration to a perfumer. Even a brief glance at the L’Artisan Parfumeur tuberose collection reveals that it can be treated in strikingly diverse ways: as a coconut bonbon (Tubéreuse, first launched 1978 and now sadly discontinued,) an innocent ingénue in white (La Chasse aux Papillons), opulent, with an emphasis on jasmine notes (La Chasse aux Papillons Extrême,) or as a heady, creamy and spicy accord (La Haie Fleurie de Hameau). Nuit de Tubereuse, a fragrance by perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour and launched this spring, presents yet another tuberose treatment: earthy, musky, with a delicious tropical fruit accent.

Serge Lutens Boxeuses : Perfume Review

A few years ago, I attended a dance performance that was a mixed bill of classical and modern. After the audience was treated to two long modern pieces, in which dancing was somehow secondary to scenery, it let out a collective sign of pleasure and relief,when the curtain rose to reveal a classical ballet set. This incident illustrates my feelings about the latest launch from Serge Lutens. Having been uninspired by Nuit de Cellophane, bored by L’Eau and mildly interested in Bas de Soie, I find Boxeuses a welcome return of Lutens’ seductive, romantic and smoldering Oriental muse.

Serge Lutens Bas de Soie : Perfume Review

Before I write about Boxeuses, I would like to discuss Bas de Soie, a fragrance which joins the ranks of the Serge Lutens export collection. “Silk stocking,” as its name translates from French, Bas de Soie certainly conveys a rustling, shimmering sensation of silk, although at times, it disconcertingly veers towards sharp and metallic. Even if it is tempting to talk about a new direction for Lutens, I only have to recall the pallor of Clair de Musc (2003), the watery limpidness of Fleurs de Citronnier (2004), the transparency of Gris Clair (2006), and the sweet delicacy of Louve (2007.) Likewise, in Bas de Soie, the familiar dark, magnetic Serge Lutens character is not to be found. If your idea of a fragrance merges the coldness of hyacinth with metallic rose and the luxurious softness of Santa Maria Novella iris soap, then Bas de Soie is a perfume for you.

Opal Basil and Lemon Sherbet : Flavor and Fragrance

This post first appeared in October 2009, but I would like to remind you of this refreshing, fuschia tinted drink, which is perfect on these hot summer days. I have also been making it lately with Thai basil, which produces a lovely peach colored liquid.

Few things remind me more of summer than basil. Its interplay of bitter peppery notes and sweet licorice-anise is made vivid by the dark, tangy verdancy, a perfect counterpoint. In perfumery, it is a classical herbal note, used in both masculine and feminine fragrances for its cooling aromatic effect. Paired with citrus, it makes for a scintillating sensation. Thus, Hermes in-house perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena relies on the green note of basil to wrap its grapefruit accords in fragrances like Hermessence Rose Ikebana and Eau de Pamplemousse Rose. In fact, the combination of basil and lemon is a perfect one to appropriate for gastronomical explorations, whether one wishes to compose a simple salsa or a fish marinade. Furthermore, I would like to suggest another idea--a chilled drink that traces its roots to the Middle Eastern sherbet tradition. It is an essence of summer in a glass.

Jo Malone Vanilla Anise : Fragrance Review

Fragrances that can truly go from morning to night are quite rare, especially if one would like a sheer, understated sillage. Either one is wrapped in a thick scent veil all day long, or else there is hardly anything left by the end of the workday. Jo Malone Vanilla Anise is a rare exception, a transparent fragrance with a decent tenacity. Moreover, in contrast to many other Jo Malone fragrances, it has a beautiful body and a memorable drydown, despite being gauzy and light.

Oud : Fragrance Note and Perfume Reviews

The aroma that set the imagination of Middle Eastern poets and Sufi mystics aflame is a fascinating product of the process that via slow deterioration brings immortality. Oud is a resin released by Aquilaria tree species in order to protect themselves against fungus that decomposes their bark and branches. Developing over many decades, oud is priced above rubies. The high quality oud is a true dark gold, its fragrance ethereal and complex, blending nuances of ambergris, sweet incense, tobacco and wood. The lower grades, on the other hand, have a sharp, dark, less nuanced and pleasant scent. Its rich fragrance is used for scenting mosques and clothes in the Middle East, and it is believed that oud can ward off the evil eye as well as attract lovers.

A brief glimpse at the list of fragrances launched over the past couple of years and the launches still ahead this year make it patently clear that oud has been an au courant note for the first decade of our millennium. From Trish McEvoy to Tom Ford, it appears either as a central note or as a main component of a woody accord. At this rate, we might even see Bath & Body Works “Warm Vanilla Oudh”! On the one hand, the popularity of this complex note is surprisingly, for it is certainly not an easy scent to appreciate—sharp, animalic, pungent, intense. On the other, it is an exciting backnote for modern fragrances, lending a new dimension to the compositions. It pairs well with the traditional oriental notes, from rose to vanilla, as well as with the crisp modern ambers and the effervescent hersperidic notes. It should be noted that oud found in many fragrances is not the precious natural oil, which is not only quite rare, but also quite expensive. Still, a number of oud bases I have smelled have an interesting character that captures some of the features of the natural material, which is rich and seductive.

Therefore, I would like to give an overview of 20 or so of the oud dominated fragrances on the market and to highlight a few others to explore.

Bath & Body Works Velvet Tuberose Fragrance Review

Until I started working in the fragrance industry, I automatically assumed that the terms “niche, expensive, Paris-exclusive” guarantee quality, originality and elegance, while the big designer brands and mass market would offer exactly the opposite. Of course, nothing could be further from the truth. Some niche brands do indeed spend a lot of effort on fragrance, as do some large popular brands, while others spend less money on scent than do detergent companies. And believe me, it is quite little for fine fragrance. In this light, it is liberating to forget about labels and simply look for interesting discoveries in venues other than high-end boutiques. My most recent discovery of this sort is Bath & Body Works Velvet Tuberose.