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May 31, 2005

Fragrance review: Guerlain Chant d’Aromes (New and Vintage)

Chant daromes color ad

Rated 4.5 out of 5.0

Star rating: 5 stars--outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars--very good, 3 stars--adequate, 2 stars--disappointing, 1 star--poor.

Guerlain marketed Chant d’Arômes in 1962 as a fragrance for a woman who wears perfume only for herself. In an interview with Elle Magazine, perfumer Jean-Paul Guerlain described his muse Marie-Monique as "a proper, ladylike young woman. I chose spring flowers like honeysuckle and gardenia, embellished them with mandarin and bergamot and added a touch of jasmine and a hint of ylang-ylang." Chant d’Arômes is a delicately rendered floral chypre, with a strong accent of peach and sweet orange. The inky richness of oakmoss and the milky sweetness of sandalwood serve as interesting contrasts to the pastel hued heart of honeysuckle and jasmine. It is at once innocent and alluring.

On Reformulation (12.10.2010):

Chant d’Arômes has been reformulated numerous times, and today I like it much better than I did five years ago. It has a fresher, brighter quality than before, more similar  to the original. The lack of oakmoss is felt, of course. However, it is overall a lovely retro chypre that should not be overlooked.

Reformulated version (5.1.2005):

My initial impressions are of herbarium, a collection of dried out blossoms carefully stored in heavy paper. A tinge of mustiness pervades the entire composition, and  it drowns out its delicacy. On my skin, the eau de toilette does not reveal the dew-drenched florals I expected, and only in the parfum strength are the notes of jasmine, tuberose and honeysuckle obvious.

Guerlain Chant d’Arômes includes notes of peach, bergamot, mandarin, tuberose, ylang ylang, helichrysum, gardenia, honeysuckle, jasmine, orris root, cedarwood, sandalwood, musk, oakmoss, frankincense, vetiver, and tonka bean.

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