Fragrance review: Guerlain Shalimar and Shalimar Eau Légère

Shalimar

As the story goes, Shalimar, created in 1925 by Jacques Guerlain, was inspired by a love story of Shah Jahangir and his wife, Mumtaz Majal. Upon her death, Shah build a mausoleum in her honour, which is Taj Mahal. The fragrance was named after the Gardens of Shalimar, so beloved by Mumtaz Majal. Whether the story is true, or just an example of clever marketing playing upon the fascination with the East in the 1920s, the magic of Shalimar is indisputable. The notes include: lemon, bergamot, jasmine, rose de mai, opopanax, tonka bean, vanilla, iris, incense, ambergris.

The initial sensation is of cool citrus burst that quickly melds into a rich floral heart. The undercurrent of dark sensual pervades even the initial chilly note, setting the stage for the warmth of the base. Vanilla stands out rather strongly against the backdrop of bergamot, which while fading by the time fragrance dries down, nevertheless maintains its pleasant astringency. The interplay between cold and hot is the most magnificent aspect of Shalimar. In the EDT and the EDP it is a lovely fragrance, however the extrait de parfum is incomparable, as is the case for most of the Guerlain fragrances. Bergamot is much softer, while the dry down is less musky and dark. I heard rumours that in the late 1990s, the house started using less expensive bergamot oil, which was detrimental for the composition, however I cannot say that I notice much difference after the dry down comparing two samples, one vintage and another one modern.

As much as I appreciate the genius of this fragrance, I cannot wear it, as it invariably turns too musky on my skin. For a similar idea, but different aura, Jicky is my preferred fragrance. In fact, one account I heard asserts that Shalimar was created when Jacques Guerlain added a heavier than necessary doze of vanillin to Jicky. 

Shalimar Eau Légère

Imagine sitting by the pool somewhere in the middle of a luxurious Middle Eastern palace and eating lemon-jasmine sorbet. The wind is carrying the scent of blooming orange groves and a whiff of perfumed silks from the palace. Unlike traditional Shalimar, Eau Légère, introduced in 2003, skips the musky accord and goes from the cool lemon top into a warm vanilla heart. It was created by Mathilde Laurent, a young in-house Guerlain perfumer, however in 2004, Jean Paul Guerlain slightly changed the composition. As for Shalimar Light, I would not compare it to the original Shalimar, because the composition is rather different. Shalimar is the full blown fin de siècle decadence, resplendent in its radiance. Shalimar light is like a reflection on all of this glow onto the water. It is still an ornate Guerlain composition, but far more restrained. It is lighter as the name suggests and less complex. Nevertheless, it is a splendid take on the beautiful classic Shalimar. Eau Légère, on the other hand, is effervescent and lighthearted, yet preserving the seductive quality of the original. If it loses in complexity, it surely gains in wearability for me.