Fragrance Review: L’Artisan Parfumeur La Chasse Aux Papillons and La Chasse Aux Papillons Extrême

This mist of jasmine and linden illuminated by a radiant ray of tuberose was created by Anne Flipo for L’Artisan Parfumeur in 1999. Citrus notes set the stage for the floral adagio dominated by orange blossom. It is a composition that allows tuberose to shine through the weightless overlay of other floral notes. If there is a fragrance that captures the essence of spring, La Chasse Aux Papillons is it. It is as sunny and happy as some of Pierre-Auguste Renoir’s works are full of light and serenity. It is hardly a grand fragrance, nor does it have enough tenacity to maintain its presence for longer than a couple of hours, however it does not seem to reduce my affection. It is a fragrance that one reaches for whenever the sky is overcast, and the BBC news are depressing. When I lived in London, this was a staple in my perfume wardrobe. Its effervescence managed to dispel any gloom, climatic or emotional.

In 2005, L’Artisan introduced the EDP version of the original fragrance, called La Chasse Aux Papillons Extrême. Notes are pink berries, jasmine sambac, tuberose, ylang-ylang, saffron, honey. It proves that one cannot gild the lily. While the regular version has a tantalizing balance between opulence and delicacy, translucence underscored by floral sensuality, the EDP is too heavy on ylang ylang and tuberose to preserve the soft jasmine and linden blossom pas de deux that I love about the EDT. Orange blossom is all but gone, replaced by tenacious citrus and potent tuberose. I do not deny that it is a pleasant summer fragrance that would be easy to wear, but it just seems no different from other white florals on the market.

Painting: Pierre-Auguste Renoir, Garden at Fontenay, 1874. Oil on canvas. Sammlung Oskar Reinhart, Winterthur, Switzerland.

Comments

[Robin]

I like the Extreme better than you do, V, but completely agree that the original is better. Would have rather seen them just make it stronger & longer lasting rather than tweaking the notes quite so much.

[Victoria]

I absolutely agree! They are nothing alike. I prefer reapplying the original La Chasse (or wearing another fragrance after it fades--as they say, variety...)

[mreenymo]

I respectfully dissent! :):)

The original La Chasse smells like dirty laundry on me. Really! I think it is the ever-present linden note that does that.

However, the Extreme version smells lovely. (Love to R!)No overbearing linden in this one. :):) And, it layers beautifully with Acca Kappa Calycanthus.

Hugs!

[Victoria]

I welcome a dissenter anytime, dear R! :) I had rather high hopes for Extreme, however I suppose I will continue enjoying the original. I actually did not care for any of the Extreme versions in L'Artisan line.

Acca Kappa Calycanthus sounds like it would wonderfully with either. Will have to try it.
xoxo

[parislondres]

Darling V! I love La Chasse original as you know (esp layered with Chanel Gardenia parfum).

Hope all is well. Will catch up soon!
xoxo

[Victoria]

Dear N! Enjoy your trip. Write when you return. Of course, I was thinking about you and your great layering combination! xoxo

[Liz smellslikeleaves]

I must agree with mreenymo. There is something in the original La Chasse which I find off-putting; I believe it's the linden. I just could not find its much-touted appeal on my skin. The Extreme version, however, works much better on me, although it's quite a different animal--spicier, lusher, more sensual, without the delicate, floaty charm of the original. It must be a chemistry thing!

I spoke at length with Emmanuelle, the manager of the L'artisan boutique in SoHo, about the Extreme versions. She said that people who like the originals often dislike the Extremes, whereas those who like the Extremes often dislike the originals. This was certainly the case with Mure et Musc for me; I am devoted to the original, but dislike the Extreme version. It's curious that instead of creating a more concentrated version of the original composition (which usually already has a strong following), L'artisan instead reinterprets it to create the Extreme.

[Atreau]

The first time I tried La Chasse Aux Papillons I was underwhelmed. As it was autumn when I tested it, I may have been biased. I received a sample of the extreme version that I've yet to test.

[Victoria]

That makes perfect sense, Liz! I am also rather puzzled by the complete reworking of the fragrances, when EDP come out from L'Artisan. I think that I liked the original Premier Figuier, because it was a unique tree sap fragrance. The EDP was just too floral.

Plus, I adore linden, especially when it is well done. It has the lightest honey scent, not unlike greener honeysuckle.

[Victoria]

S, give both of them a try and please report back. I think that you might prefer the EDP, because you do not seem to like orange blossom. The original is very heavy on orange blossom.