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June 05, 2005

Fragrance Review: Caron N'Aimez Que Moi and Aimez Moi (New and Vintage)

Aimez moi

Rated 4.5 out of 5.0

Star rating: 5 stars--outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars--very good, 3 stars--adequate, 2 stars--disappointing, 1 star--poor.

N'Aimez Que Moi

In 1917, Ernest Daltroff creates a fragrance that captured the promises made by the couples separated by the WWI to remain loyal and to await the return of the loved ones from the front. N'Aimez Que Moi was the name given to  this new perfume by Caron. “Love Only Me!” Alas, it is not a promise I can make. While undoubtedly beautiful, N'Aimez Que Moi is too heavy and powdery even for this fan of makeup-like notes in perfume. The top notes are of creamy rose and violet intertwined with soft lilac. The lush floral bouquet is wrapped in sandalwood and cedar, with an accent of earthy vetiver and iris. Unfortunately, that's when the fragrance becomes unbearably powdery and opaque, and N'Aimez Que Moi and I part ways.

Notes: lilac, rose, violet, iris, vetiver, cedar, sandalwood, vanilla, amber, musk, oakmoss. 

On Reformulation (March 2011):

The dark roses and incense of the original are rendered as furniture polish and ashes. Where the original had a beautiful natural rose note, I now smell mostly rose synthetics. N’Aimez Que Moi was never my favorite Caron, but in its current version, it is downright unwearable for me.

Aimez Moi

Talented perfumer Dominique Ropion created Aimez Moi in 1996, taking N’Aimez Que Moi as a point of creative reference. The only thing I prefer about the original is the name: Aimez Moi ("Love Me") sounds needy and desperate. The perfume itself is a little gem, however. Anise with its spicy and sweet quality unfolds in the top notes before bergamot lends a slightly bitter green note to the composition. The warmth in this fragrance mainly comes from cloves and amber which are folded in the almond scented drydown. The classical Caron darkness envelops the sweet, buttery warmth of the dry down, rendering the finished result polished and radiant. The fragrance has an exceptional tenacity and a few drops go a long way.

Notes : anise, mint, cardamom; violet, magnolia, jasmine, rose; orris, heliotrope, tolu, vanilla.

On Reformulation (March 2011):

This spicy violet, underpinned by luscious vanilla and creamy woods, is one of my current Caron favorites, both for being truthful to the original formula and for its cheerful, vivacious character. It has a distinctive, memorable presence.

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