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June 17, 2005

Fragrance Review: Tubereuse by L’Artisan Parfumeur and Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier

Tuberoses

Wearing tuberose soliflore is something not unlike eating a bar of dark chocolate in one go. In other words, it can be intoxicating to the point of decadence and overindulgence. Yet, sometimes it is exactly what one craves.

The aforementioned houses share the same perfumer, Jean Laporte, who after leaving L’Artisan Parfumeur founded Maître Parfumeur et Gantier. L’Artisan’s interpretation of tuberose (created in 1978) is pure butter, interspersed with honeyed petals. It opens up on a sharp and slightly abrasive note, however it mellows considerably as the drydown approaches. The result is a lush spicy tuberose scent, which is a bit closer to gardenia than a true tuberose.

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier (1988) renders its tuberose as a thousand layer cake. The layers of creamy soft tuberose appear to unfold further and further, laced with minute spicy and distinctly green undertones that make this fragrance more complex than that of L’Artisan. The green note is very pronounced, and it may not appeal to someone seeking a perfectly creamy tuberose soliflore.

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