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October 26, 2005

Fragrance Review: S-Perfume 100% Love

Gauguin57

Rose petals floating on water is the aspect of 100% Love that lends it a serene and wistful quality. Luminous accords are arranged like delicate patterns on Japanese silk, their translucence evoking a gentle touch. The composition captures the moment when one loses oneself in a reverie of perfect contentment. If this sensation could be bottled, 100% Love comes close.

100% Love was created by Sophia Grojsman, the nose behind fragrances like Jaipur by Boucheron, Eternity by Calvin Klein, Paris by Yves Saint Laurent, and Trésor by Lancôme. 100% Love is a fascinating fragrance in terms of the development of Grojsman’s artistic vision, whose earlier creations have been revolutionary in terms of their structure, where most of the formula was made up of only a few ingredients, with carefully chosen accents ornamenting the composition. In case of Trésor, four materials comprise 80% of the formula. The result is a panoramic, rather than a sequential composition, unfolding like a fan. ...

100% Love is panoramic as well, yet it pairs complexity with translucence. Delicate rose petals layered with a dusting of chocolate are the central facet of the composition, which is also ornamented subtly with incense. Rose is a note that Grojsman is famous for, be the lush pink petals of Paris, a soft apricot tinged flower of Trésor, or an imaginary blue blossom of Yvresse. It is interesting to see that in 100% Love rose has an abstract quality, as if painted in watercolours. It does not explode in a cascade of petals like the other fragrances mentioned, yet its dream-like aura is what makes the composition especially beguiling. Chocolate note provides a lovely sweet touch, yet nothing about the composition is particularly gourmand. It folds many associations within its ethereal form, from the first flowers to the first kiss.

It persists caressing and gentle, its quiet beauty underscored by a sense of confidence its creator instilled in the composition. Indeed, the concept and the name could not be more fitting. Like The Different Company fragrances, 100% Love requires to be sprayed liberally in order to create a thin veil of scent over the skin. While there is a special ethereal beauty to the composition in its current EDT concentration, S-Perfume will release a more concentrated version early next year.

S-Perfume based in New York is a small perfume company that creates fragrances in collaboration with the well-know perfumers such as Sophia Grojsman, Thierry Wasser, Alberto Morillas, Christophe Laudamiel, Jacques Cavallier, and Annick Menardo. S-Perfumes are available from STUDIO at Los Angeles Fred Segal, Colette Paris, and Mother Tokyo (03 5433 1748). Online, samples and fragrances are available directly from The Shaping Room/S-Perfume.

Painting: Paul Gauguin. Nave Nave Moe (Sacred Spring). 1894. Oil on canvas. The Hermitage, St. Petersburg, Russia. From abcgallery.

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