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October 31, 2005

Pomegranate Fragrance Review: Jo Malone Pomegranate Noir and Calvin Klein Euphoria

Pomegranate_2

The most autumnal of visions are the pyramids of pomegranates arranged at the markets beginning in September. I would find myself drawn to the stalls filled with red orbs reflecting shimmering light of a chilly golden morning. Each tiny ruby jewel contained within tough leathery skin is an explosion of tart flavour that is reminiscent of grapes crossed with plums. Therefore, the appearance of pomegranate notes in the fall releases is quite appropriate given the autumnal nature of the fruit. The scent of pomegranate is subtle, yet distinct, twisting the green powdery fragrance of its skin around the sweet-tart and winey aroma of the seeds. Two recent releases focus on the pomegranate notes, with Jo Malone offering a dry minimalist variant and Calvin Klein providing a more exotic and creamier arrangement. ....

Jo_malone_pomegranatenoir While most of the Jo Malone fragrances are based around a single note, Pomegranate Noir comes as a surprise given its relative complexity. Essentially, it is a frankincense laced fruit compote. A note of tart fruit offers an initial burst, which soon segues into an accord that reminds me more of dried cranberries and cherries than pomegranates. Dryness of patchouli is the only element that is most evident of the note, with the earthy quality being rather subtle. On the other hand, frankincense dominates the composition, drowning out everything else. Tart aspect is evident underneath the resinous veil, playing into the crisp citrusy character of unburned frankincense, and I would much rather prefer Pomegranate Noir in a candle form.

Euphoria Created by Dominique Ropion, Carlos Benaïm and Loc Dong, Calvin Klein Euphoria marries fall fruit, pomegranate and persimmon, with patchouli and woods, adding a dose of creamy notes to round out the composition. Subtle patchouli is more evident at first until it becomes veiled by a sheer floral accord with lemon, apricot and cured tea leaves facets. Floral ornamentation is sustained over a dark woody vanilla, with a rum redolent caramel note. Ambery warmth seeps through the layers of the composition, which loses its juicy touch, and instead reveals a fruity musk note that contrasts nicely with a creamy note of sandalwood. One can certainly notice an influence of Angel’s juxtaposition of fruit and patchouli, however the similarities vanish relatively quickly under an overlay of floral notes. While Euphoria does not take the concept of pomegranate into uncharted waters, it offers an elegantly composed interpretation.

Other fragrances with pomegranate notes include Annick Goutal Quel Amour!, Antica Farmacista Melograno, Christian Dior Addict 2, Comme des Garçons White, Fresh Index Pomegranate Anise, Index Redcurrant Basil, Gucci Envy Me, Guerlain Samsara Shine, i Profumi di Firenze Melograno Selvatoco , Rykiel Rose, Santa Maria Novella Melograno, Tocca Eau de Touch. If you have your favourites, I would love to hear what they are.

Jo Malone Pomegranate Noir contains notes of plum, raspberry, pink pepper, patchouli, frankincense and spicy woods. Fragrances are available from Jo Malone, Bergdorf Goodman, and Neiman Marcus.

Calvin Klein Euphoria includes pomegranate, persimmon, green notes, lotus, champaca, black orchid, black violet, liquid amber, mahogany, musk. It is available from Sephora, Saks 5th Avenue, Nordstrom, Macy’s and other select retail stores.

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