Fragrance Review: Parfums de Nicolaï Pour Homme

Exploring the fragrances specifically designated for the opposite gender can be a fascinating experience. While the classical fougères like Davidoff Cool Water and Guy Laroche Drakkar Noir might be too quintessentially masculine for most women, many fragrances designated as Pour Homme can be confidently explored by women, particularly by those who would like a break from the voluptuous florals and the sweet fruity compositions. Thus, by way of example, Chanel Égoïste Pour Homme is a mélange of sweet woods layered with sweet mandarine cream. Le 3ème Homme de Caron is a dark smoky flower with an exciting, but subtle fougère facet. ...

Fragrance News: Colourful Missoni Fragrance

Estée Lauder will launch a new Mission fragrance developed by Symrise. Missoni’s famous colourful knitwear was an inspiration the composition, in which each accord represents a particular colour: “Radiant Yellows corresponds to top notes of Italian bergamot, nespolo and magnolia; Magenta Pinks presents middle notes of peonies and dewy rose, along with Intense Oranges, which includes mandarin and bitter orange. Chocolate Browns represent a drydown of Gianduia chocolate and amber.” The EDP, parfum, body lotion, and a candle will be available in March of 2006. From cosmeticnews.

Missoni ad from angela-lindvall.net.

Fragrance Review: Guerlain Metallica / Metalys

Carnations set in gold, Metalys is a composition that respects classical canons, and yet the result is a modern floral crowning a soft oriental base. Alight with amber, the fragrance captures the same golden glow that bathes the figures and the landscapes in the paintings by Titian.

The metallic note hiding under the flower petals in the heart harmonizes the cold aldehydic top accord with the warm Guerlinade base. While the carnation dominates, the lily-like sweetness of ylang ylang and the fruitiness of jasmine are woven into the floral accord. The spicy petals peel away slowly to reveal the core of the composition, accented by the same metallic brilliance that gives Paco Rabanne Calandre and Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche a distinct touch. Yet, in Metalys, the metallic note conjures visions of burnished gold, rather than polished steel. Its illusory fragility is contrasted elegantly with the layers of creamy vanilla. ...

Winners of Perfumers’ Choice Awards 2006

The American Society of Perfumers held their annual Perfumers’ Choice Awards in November. The winners included Giorgio Beverly Hills (Women’s Classic ), Davidoff Cool Water (Men’s Classic), Bulgari Omnia (Women’s Contemporary), and Burberry Brit for Men (Men’s Contemporary), among other categories, such as hair care and candles. Read the rest of the article in Perfumer & Flavorist Magazine.

Fragrance Review: Serge Lutens La Myrrhe

La Myrrhe is the essence of the moment when the sunlight enters through the stained glass windows of an old church, bathing its cold stone in iridescent glow and lending a jewel-like splendour to the liturgical vestments and the vessels of the altar. The contrast between the light and the dark is what makes the fragrance one of the most intriguing compositions resulting from Serge Lutens and Christopher Sheldrake’s partnership.

The classicism of La Myrrhe (1995) is of misleading nature as it orchestrates its accords in a modern manner. The opalescent white veil of aldehydes that unfolds in the top accord almost hints at the floral waterfalls that are about to cascade softening the chilly breeze. Yet, instead of bergamot, rose, jasmine and ylang ylang of classical aldehydic compositions, La Myrrhe’s icy aldehydes become overlaid with sweet citrus, before falling into the heart spiced with anise. ....

Perfume and Luxury: Articles from Sunday Times

An article in the Sunday Times explores the trends in perfumery and the return to luxury. Among the most luxurious fragrances the author names the newest Lalique Le Parfum, “sensual white blossoms on top of a luxurious, soft base,” Armani Privé collection, Hermès Hermessence range, and The Different Company. Last, but not least is Clive Christian No. 1. Launched in a Baccarat crystal bottle decorated with an 18ct-gold collar, with a 5ct brilliant-cut diamond, it is going to be available for £115,000. This makes JAR fragrances seem like a bargain.

What are the top 20 finest things a man can own? Find out in the article by Tom Stubbs. Czech & Speake aftershave makes the list.

Although not directly dealing with perfume, the same issue has an interesting article on what constitutes luxury and pampering for different people. Indulging can mean a variety of things, as one would expect.

The same issue also has a few recommendations on the perfect gifts, DYI presents, last minute gifts, and shopping for antiques.

Perfume Review: Idole de Lubin (Olivia Giacobetti)

Idole de Lubin... “He embraced her nervously, not daring to ask the question that hovered upon his lips. She had placed a large package on the stand in the center of the room. Opening it she took out a tablet of soap, a bottle of Lubin’s extract, a sponge, a box of hairpins, a button- hook, and curling-tongs…” Guy de Maupassant, Bel Ami (1885).

The names like Lubin, L.T. Piver, Sauzé, Gelle Frères, Millot, Rigaud, Houbigant, and Roger & Gallet may not readily evoke the images of the grand perfume houses, yet until the 20th century, these firms were on par with houses like Guerlain and Coty in contributing to the “Golden Age of Perfumery.” Pierre-François Lubin established his firm under Napoleon in 1798 and eventually became Pauline Bonaparte Princess Borghèse’s appointed perfumer. Over the course of its history, the house created about 466 fragrances. However, its glory seemed to have vanished with the hats and gloves. In this light, it is fascinating to experience Idole de Lubin, created by Olivia Giacobetti. Inspired by the maritime spice routes and voyages to the far away lands, Idole takes the name of Lubin’s fragrance from the early 1960s. However, I should clarify that it is a completely different fragrance, rather than a remake of the vintage one. Could it be the sign of Lubin's revival? ...

New Olivia Giacobetti Candle and Room Spray for Bottega Veneta

Olivia Giacobetti creates her second candle for Bottega Veneta under the label of L’Artisan Parfumeur. Called Intreccio no. 2, the candle evokes the scents of the Tuscan countryside with its mélange of basil and woods. The candle is also available in the room spray.

The first candle by Olivia Giacobetti for Artisan Parfumeur-Bottega Veneta, Intreccio no. 1 has been released as a room spray, and is priced at 40 euros for 50ml. The fragrance is suppose to conjure a library in an old Venetian house with its blend of leather, woods and freshly cut hay.

The candles are available at Bottega Veneta and L’Artisan Parfumeur boutiques. Intreccio no. 1 can be ordered from Bergdorf Goodman as well as directly from L’Artisan. Thank you to Mike for the information!

Top Ten Favourite Fragrances

Happy Thanksgiving! In lieu of writing on a specific perfume today, I have decided to compile a list of my favourite fragrances. Needless to say, this is rather a snapshot of my current state of predilections and a result of a painstaking task of trying to pick only ten fragrances. I left out probably ten times as many my most beloved fragrances as I ended up including. Nevertheless, here they are: my top five classical and top five modern favourites. Please share yours and do not feel constrained to make separate lists like I did!

Top Five Classical Favourites

Caron Nuit de NoëlIf the mood of a quiet snowy day were captured in a bottle, it would be redolent of Nuit de Noël, a fragrance that represents the beauty of rose and incense intertwined over a dark mossy base.

Chanel Bois de IlesAmong Ernest Beaux’s compositions, Bois des Iles’s perfection stands out. It is a painting of gilded woods touched by the delicate spicy notes.

Fragrance Review: S-Perfume S-ex

The exploration of synergy between art and scents is the main premise of S-Perfume project, which was founded by a sculptor Sacré Nobi. Fragrance composition is like a sculpture that fills the space. It is both an architectural construction, with the notes arranged in order to present a particular form and a dynamic vision, with the accords unfolding to spell out a concatenation of images. In this sense, fragrance transcends the simple, bounded space. Indeed, it transcends the temporal boundary as well, being able to move and transport to another reality, to evoke different experiences and to awaken forgotten memories.

Like Frédéric Malle of Editions de Parfums, Sacré Nobi works directly with the perfumers, allowing them to express their ideas without the limitations of the traditional marketing approaches. The fragrances produced by his collaboration with such famous perfumers as Sophia Grojsman, Thierry Wasser, Alberto Morillas, Christophe Laudamiel, Jacques Cavallier, and Annick Menardo are both daring and evocative. ...

Fragrance Ingredient: Musks

It would not be an understatement to say that there is hardly a fragrance that does not contain at least one musk component. The power of musk to refine, balance, fix and accentuate compositions without adding a heavy note is exceptional, and no other ingredient can rivals musks in terms of their popularity and versatility. Musk forms the pedestal upon which the entire composition rests. It fuses sensuality and warmth even into the simplest of compositions, and there exist numerous fragrances based solely around musk.

The term musk/musky in perfumery refers not only to the specific ingredients, but also to the abstraction of complex odours of natural musk, which range from balmy, sweet, and powdery to fig-like, animalic, leathery, spicy, and woody. As Philip Kraft notes in his great overview of musks, “the more one studies its character [that of natural musk tincture], the more contrasting, vibrant and oscillating it becomes: repulsive–attractive, chemical–warm, sweaty–balmy, acrid–waxy, earthy–powdery, fatty–chocolate-like, pungent–leathery, resinous–spicy, fig-like, dry, nutty and woody, to give just some impressions” (144). The abstraction of these complex impressions into “warm, sweet, powdery and sensual” is what can be understood whenever “musky” tonality is mentioned. ...

Fragrance Review: Robert Piguet Bandit

In the constellation of Caron Tabac Blond (1919), Cuir de Russie (1924) and Parfums Grès Cabochard (1959), united by the smoky leather, Bandit is the most fearless and daring. It is neither coy and naughty nor aloof and chic. It does not hide its aggressive animalic side under the layers of vanilla like Tabac Blond, nor softens it with the rose and jasmine sweetness like Cuir de Russie. A classical chypre, Bandit is unmistakably alluring, even if it is not the easiest acquaintance to make, especially for someone unfamiliar with this genre.

Bandit was born out of the dreams about pirates and sea voyages. Robert Piguet, a former Poiret fashion designer, upon establishing his own house in 1940, decided to create a fragrance to accompany his new avant-garde couture collection that had models walk down the runway wearing black masks and brandishing knives. His encounter with the perfumer Germaine Cellier, a rebel herself, led to the creation of Bandit in 1944, an essence of rebellion. It shocked and enticed simultaneously, its dark leather notes hinting at dark desires. ...

Perfumer Germaine Cellier

One of the first famous female perfumers, Germaine Cellier (1909-1976) was a creator ahead of her time, relying on short formulas to paint dazzling abstractions and treating notes as colours, much like a painter would. She was not afraid to use a large quantity of the aggressive aroma-chemical isobutyl quinoline in creating of the leather accord for Robert Piquet Bandit or 8% of galbanum for infusing Balmain Vent Vert with a fierce verdancy. She was also responsible for Robert Piguet Fracas (1948), Balmain Jolie Madame (1953), Balmain Monsieur Balmain (1964), and Nina Ricci Coeur-Joie (1946).

It is said that she was a striking woman—elegant, tall, thin, blond, blue-eyed. She had a sharp sense of humour and was full of vitality. She posed for André Derain and counted other famous painters and sculptors among her friends. ...

Fragrance Review: Hermes Osmanthe Yunnan from Hermessence Collection

Inspired by a visit to the gardens of Beijing's Forbidden City, Osmanthe Yunnan, Jean-Claude Ellena’s new creation for Hermèssence range explores the marriage of tea and flower. Yunnan tea and osmanthus is a combination of natural harmony due to the fact that the flowery rich tea tonality underscores the fruity delicacy of osmanthus. Its scent, elusive and haunting, ranges from tea-soaked dried apricots to jasmine soap crushed in a leather bag.

The hesperidic notes sparkle like sugar crystals falling into a tea cup, their astringent quality appearing as somewhat sharp on the skin. The tart orange becomes more pronounced, contrasting with the gentle richness of tea. As could be expected, the composition is quintessentially Ellena—delicate transparency paired with complexity of the final result, which is a panoramic display of the idea. The composition appears rather smooth, with none of the notes dominating, but instead melding elegantly into a transparent, yet velvety fruity-floral scent. ...

Fragrance News: Serge Lutens Gris Clair and Diptyque Eau de Lierre

It has been confirmed that in March Serge Lutens is launching a new export line fragrance called Gris Clair. The composition is supposed to be based around the ashes and lavender theme. For more information on Serge Lutens and the difference between the export and the exclusive lines, please see Serge Lutens Nearly All Facts.

Diptyque is adding a new fragrance to its range, named Eau de Lierre. Based on the scent of ivy, the fragrance will include various green notes, including violet leaf as well as woods and musk. The fragrance will debut in May of 2006.

Fragrance Review: Carnal Flower by Frederic Malle

Frédéric Malle Carnal Flower explores the sensuality of tuberose rendering white blossoms both as bathed in the sunlight and touched by the evening shadows. In the Victorian language of flowers, tuberose signified dangerous pleasures, while in India young girls were warned against inhaling its aphrodisiac scent after dark, lest it lead them into trouble.

Its herbaceous verdant opening notes interspersed with tart shimmer of bergamot are structured as a crescendo leading to a heady burst of petals. The heart is comprised of creamy tuberose layered with lacy jasmine notes, their richness complementing the unique hot rubber and warm skin facet that hides underneath the white voluptuous petals of tuberose. ...

Vogue Article on Haute Perfumeries

The December issue of US Vogue which provides a nice insight into the world of haute perfumeries. One of the stories is on La Maison Guerlain at 68, Champs-Élysées. From its stunning gold mosaic to the network of glass pipes called the Imperial Foutains, the article sparks one’s interest to visit and explore.

Do you have a favourite perfume boutique? One of my own favourites would undoubtedly be Iunx, an elegant venue selling Olivia Giacobetti’s fragrances, body care and home scents. Its black interior lit by soft opalescent light never fails to fascinate me.

Photo: Iunx boutique. 48-50 rue de l'Université, Paris 7e, tel: 33.1 45 44 50 14.

Armani Privé Candles

Armani Privé line now features four candles: Ambre Soie (warm sweetness of amber), Eau de Jade (crushed leaves, neroli and Calabrian bergamot peel), Pierre de Lune (cassis and orange blossom), and Bois d’Encens (cedar crowned by pepper laced frankincense). The candles are featured in wooded boxes decorated with stone ornaments, much like the fragrance bottles. The presentation is quite gorgeous, as are the scents emanating from their waxy contents. The candles are priced at $55. The line is available at Giorgio Armani boutiques, Saks 5th Avenue, and Harrods in the UK as well as directly from Giorgio Armani website.

Fragrance Review: Youth Dew Amber Nude by Estee Lauder

Youth Dew, introduced in 1953, was renowned for featuring 30% oil concentration, almost triple the usual amount. Its pairing of balsamic richness with a cloud of earthy patchouli renders the composition as dark, heavy and intriguingly languorous. At the same time, its dense and sonorous effect can be an olfactory challenge. Thus, for the winter of 2005, Estée Lauder revealed an Amber Nude collection designed by Tom Ford, with the Youth Dew interpretation joining the Lauder classic. Youth Dew Amber Nude promised to respect the character of the original composition, while unveiling its softer side.

The composition indeed is structured around the spicy floral heart and the balsamic base like the original Youth Dew; however, Amber Nude is sweeter and more luminous. Spices are gently folded into the main accord, in contrast to their liberal layering in the original. Where the sweetness of Youth Dew comes from dark rich notes of tolu balsam and benzoin, Amber Nude relies on gourmand vanilla, powdery chocolate and transparent amber. ...

Estée Lauder: The Woman Behind Youth Dew

Estée Lauder and her husband Joseph started a business in 1946 to market her uncle’s skincare preparations. Lauder launched her first fragrance Youth Dew in 1953, cleverly marketing it as bath oil. Although at the time perfume was considered a luxury item reserved for special occasions, bath oil could be applied every night. In 1964, Lauder introduced her first masculine fragrance, Aramis, which like Youth Dew has become an enormous success.

Photo: Estée Lauder, read more on osmoz.com.

Fragrance Review: Chanel Cuir de Russie

If perfume allows the imagination to paint vivid pictures, Cuir de Russie is a fragrance that seems to embody a whole story. From the shimmering dry aldehydic top to the warm leathery base, it unveils one image after another. One can almost envision an elegant woman reaching into a black leather handbag, her hand rummaging through its contents: red lipstick, powder compact exuding an aroma of violets, a silver cigarette case… The owner of the fragrant handbag also seems to be fond of listening to jazz in smoky clubs since Cuir de Russie has an alluring note redolent of soft tobacco pervading its leathery smoothness. It is indeed a scent of the fine handbag and the warm skin of its beautiful owner.

Cuir de Russie, "Russian Leather" was a popular theme at the end of the 19 th century, with similarly named fragrances offered by houses like Guerlain and LT Piver. Created in 1924 by Ernest Beaux, the fragrance was intended to provoke and shock, being dedicated to the woman who is not afraid to smoke in public nor speak her mind. ...

Rise of Grasse as Perfumery Center: Story of Scented Gloves

Guild of Glovers was among the most important guilds, and in 1268 it was granted a status of corporation in Paris. Due to the fact that tanning process made use of maloforous nitrogenous wastes, gloves and leather goods had to be reodorized. Therefore, it would be fair to say that glove-making was an important starting point for the inception of perfumery in France, and particularly in Grasse. “In March of 1673, Colbert’s Ordinance of Commerce put the industry of gantiers-poudriers-parfumeurs on a more stable footing as part of the Six Corps, the six most powerful business societies of the day, with priviledged access to products from overseas” (156).

Leather goods would remain an important part of the luxury industry, however in the 1760s the government introduced high imposts on hides, which crushed the revenues of the gantier-parfumeurs, the glove-making associations. Thus, Grasse retained its prominence in perfumery to this day, since its rival Montpellier had invested much more in glove-making aspect of perfume industry and could not survive the industry collapse.

Reference: Morris, Edwin T. 1984. Fragrance: The Story of Perfume from Cleopatra to Chanel. E.T. Morris and Co., New York.

Fragrance Review: Comme des Garcons White

White ashes falling off a burning incense stick is the main association that links the colour white with the name of the Comme des Garçons fragrance. White roughness of a pomegranate’s inner skin, white powder falling gently from a chalk scraped against the blackboard, and ice covered pine branches are the images conjured by the composition. Yet, the main reason the fragrance evokes whiteness is not for any of these specific associations, but for its tranquil and quiet character. Donning its luminous veil instills the same serenity one feels when staring at the snow falling softly until the entire vista is shrouded in white.

White was created in 1996 by Mark Buxton, the nose behind the original Comme des Garçons, Comme des Garçons 2, Comme des Garçons 2 Man, Comme des Garçons 3, and Yves Saint Laurent In Love Again (with Jean-Claude Ellena), among others. The top notes spill into a sheer powdery mélange, made weightless and sheer by spices. The effervescent warmth of pepper and the camphorous sweetness of cardamom swirl like the white smoke of burning incense against the tart powderiness of pomegranate. ...

Fragrance Review: L'Artisan Parfumeur Bois Farine

Warm porridge sprinkled with shaved roasted almonds, Bois Farine takes up the gourmand theme from the standpoint of abstraction and minimalism, both of which characterize Jean-Claude Ellena’s work. The fragrance teases slightly with its soft comforting associations, yet in its ability to transport, Bois Farine does not quite bring one to the grandmother’s kitchen. Instead, like in a swift rotation of a kaleidoscope, the elements of the composition rearrange themselves to simultaneously evoke a scent of warm skin and fresh wood shavings. The fragrance simultaneously conjures a picnic on the beach and a sculptor’s studio.

Ellena’s inspiration for the floury veil of Bois Farine was a small red flower of Ruizia cordata from the Réunion island, which sends forth a unique starchy scent, redolent of fresh dough. Bois Farine, introduced in 2003, indeed at first evokes a whole range of starchy associations from fresh wheat flour to cooked oatmeal. Delicate sweetness pervades the floury layer, softening its camphorous dryness. ...

Fragrances of the World 2006 by Michael Edwards

Fragrances of the World series by Michael Edwards will soon contain the new 2006 edition, which is about to be released in January of 2006. The new edition of his well-known guidebook will include 4,500 fragrances categorized by family, with 499 new fragrances added to the listing. The information included in the guidebook comprises fragrance families, houses and gender specification of fragrances.

As Moodiereport notes, Florals family has seen an increase among female fragrances, while Fresh scents have experienced a decline. Masculine fragrances demonstrate a rise in Woody and a decline in Aromatic Fougères. Three out of every ten new launches tend to be masculine fragrances, according to Edwards.

Two Legends of Perfume History: François Coty and L'Origan de Coty

If one were to enumerate perfumers who wielded great influence over the course of perfume history, François Coty is among them. A person of great talent and creativity, he gave the world fragrances that would serve as inspirations for many perfumers, despite the fact that he did not have formal perfumery training. Born in Ajaccio, Corsica in 1874, Coty realized that in order to expand the perfume market, the high quality product must be presented in beautiful packaging and at a reasonable price. While marketed as luxury, he deemed that perfume had to be affordable for people of every socio-economic class. While La Rose Jacqueminot (1904) was his first fragrance, incorporating new floral bases, L'Origan (1905) and Chypre (1917) would initiate two new genres of perfumery: soft sweet floral and chypre.

L’Origan (1905) cannot be mistaken for anything but a child of its times. Its soft powdery veil embellished with carnation, violet and heliotrope calls to mind gloves and Edwardian silhouettes. A precursor of Guerlain L’Heure Bleue (1912), L’Origan reveals the same bittersweet anisic top notes that sparkle like diamond dust in its powdery cloud. ...

Fragrance Review: Donna Karan Black Cashmere

Among fashion houses, Donna Karan never fails to offer one successful and unusual fragrance after another. Her Cashmere Mist indeed evokes a feeling of touching warm fabric that clings softly to the skin. Be Delicious Men ornaments a baked apple with delicately roasted coffee and bittersweet citrus. Chaos (released in 1996, now discontinued) was my introduction to the beauty of a saffron note folded into the luminous richness of spices and incense that comprise its elegant oriental composition.

In some ways, Black Cashmere is not unlike Chaos, a dense tapestry of multicoloured threads that results in the illusion of darkness. Underscoring the composition is a smooth mélange of sandalwood and cedar. Created by Rodrigo Flores-Roux in 2003, Black Cashmere is a fragrance about the sensuality of incense. Interspersed with jewel-like vibrancy of spices, its warmth captivates and seduces. ...

Fragrance News: Caron Sale and Frédéric Malle Appearance at Barney's

The NYC Caron boutique is having its semi-annual 20% off sale from December 4th to 10th. Its newest fragrance, Impact, the new parfum extrait version of Pour un Homme, will be available this week. To place an order, you can either call 212-319-4888 or email Diane Haska at dhaska@alesgroup.com. Thanks to Tania for the news.

Frédéric Malle is making a personal appearance at Barney's New York on Wednesday, November 16th. The new fragrance, Carnal Flower, will make its debut then as well. Carnal Flower is created by Dominique Ropion, and it features notes of tuberose, coconut, camphor, jasmine, ylang ylang, orange blossom, and musk. To reserve an invitation, please call 212-833-2003.

Caron Pour Un Homme ad from psine.net.

Fragrance Review: Le 3eme Homme de Caron

Few fragrances tend to fall as much into the masculine domain as fougère. Based on the interplay of lavender, coumarin and oakmoss, the genre takes its name from the first abstract composition, Fougère Royale by Houbigant (1882). The combination of fresh and dry lavender with powdery sweet coumarin and oakmoss results in the juxtaposition of unexpected elements. If a term fougère signals an overplayed variation on the successful Cool Water by Davidoff, Le 3ème Homme would be a pleasant surprise. It takes the concept of fougère and embellishes it with floral and spicy accords, as if orange blossom and jasmine were scattered among the blue of lavender and the darkness of woods.

Created in 1985, Le 3ème Homme derives its name from the 1949 film, The Third Man, starring Orson Welles. Lavender and tart citrus sparkle like champagne on the skin, before their effervescence subsides under the dominance of sweetness that comprises the main accord. ...

Fragrance News: Lolita Lempicka “L” and Bulgari Eau Parfumee au The Rouge

Lolita Lempicka presents its first scent in nine years. The new feminine fragrance called quite succinctly “L” is comprised of “bitter orange, cinnamon, vanilla and precious woods elements.” The bottle seems to be inspired by objects one finds on the beach.

Bvlgari Eau Parfumée au Thé Rouge is about to be launched in December of 2005. The unisex composition will features notes of pink pepper, bergamot, orange, fig, walnut, musk and will be based around a tea accord including Roiboos red tea from South Africa and Yunnan red tea from China. From moodiereport.

Fragrance Review: Armani Prive Bois d’Encens

Experiencing Bois d’Encens is akin to stepping inside a dark cavernous church, where the first sensory impression is of incense. The smell of incense burning inside golden censers, embracing the stones, and creating a pale mist over the altar. The resinous richness of incense is almost overwhelming, yet suddenly as one gets used to it, the scent begins to appear as a soft comforting presence; something that retreats into the background, yet remains near.

Similar transformation takes place in Bois d’Encens, a fragrance created in 2004 by Michel Almairac. The layering of notes results in their gentle peeling away in order to reveal a sweet base of silky cedarwood. ...

American Fragrance Classics

What are your favourite American fragrance classics?

The first American pharmacy opened in 1729 in Philadelphia, where drugs and perfumes could be purchased. After several ownership successions, the pharmacy ended up in the hands of Hazard, Caswell and Massey. Thus, Caswell-Massey can rightfully claim to be the oldest pharmacy in the United States. Many others soon followed.

Elizabeth Arden, originally Florence Graham, opened up her beauty shop in 1910, creating Blue Grass to commemorate her favourite Virginia retreat.

Charles Revson, a son of a Russian immigrant, along with his brother Joseph and a chemist, Charles Lachman—the “L” in the company name, founded Revlon in 1932. Their first fragrance Norell, named after the designer Norman Norell, debuted in 1968.  ...

Fragrance Review: Guerlain L’Instant Eau de Noel Iris Millesime

Limited edition fragrances, especially when they present a variation on the existing composition, lead one to regard them with suspicion. Whatever the changes made, one cannot expect the effect to be dramatic. Yet, while L’Instant Eau de Noël Iris Millésime released for the winter of 2005 is not an altogether different fragrance from L’Instant de Guerlain (2003), the addition of woody iris and dewy floral notes results in an interesting twist on the original.

The original L’Instant was created by Maurice Roucel, the nose behind fragrances like Frédéric Malle Musc Ravageur, Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist, Helmut Lang Eau de Cologne and Parfum, and Gucci Envy. L’Instant is both of Guerlain tradition and of modern trends. ...

Tom Ford's Second Collection for Estée Lauder

Tom Ford revealed his new plan for Estée Lauder, which will be Ford’s collection entitled Azurēe. As Ford said, “It was Estée’s own made up name, for this sexy, beachy thing.” The original fragrance was created in 1969 and featured notes of citrus, basil, sage, oakmoss, and spearmint. However, contrary to the speculations, the collection will not feature a fragrance, unlike the Amber Nude range, which includes Youth Dew Amber Nude reinterpreted by Ford. From Fashionweekdaily.

The photo is of the original Azurēe. 

Fragrance Review: Annick Goutal Duel

Hazy and gentle, Duel seems inappropriately named, as more than anything it calls to mind opponents who would rather exchange polite remarks than gunshots. It has a certain subtlety that delicately hints at its more forceful aspects, wrapping them in sweetness of violet. On the one hand, it may register as too subtle, yet, on another, it has the same charm as the watercolours. Thus, whenever Annick Goutal fragrances are compared to the watercolours, I always think of Duel as a good example of such an analogy.

Created by Isabelle Doyen in collaboration with Camille Goutal, Annick Goutal’s daughter, Duel is a fragrance with a romantic air. Its violet tinged coolness of iris paired with crisp greenness of maté conjures a vision of the Belle Époque salon set with preparations for tea.  ...

Sweet and Powdery Fragrance Ingredients: Ionones

For lending a sweet and powdery quality to fragrance, a central role in the perfumer’s palette is played by the ionones, a group of fragrance materials that range from violet sweetness to woody floral tonality. Prior to their discovery in 1893 by Tiemann and Krüger, the violet note was derived from Parma violet (Viola odorata L., fam. Violaceae). Violet is a flower replete with hidden meanings and legends. The ancient Greeks made it the official symbol of Athens, while Napoleon Bonaparte selected the violet as his "signature flower." The popularity of violet scented fragrances was particularly high during the 19th century.

The discovery of the ionones led to the substitution of the violet toned synthetics for the extremely expensive violet flower oil. Viola odorata is still used, however for its leaves rather than flowers. Violet leaf lends a cut grass and sliced cucumber note to fragrances, quite different from the sweet and powdery scent of violet flowers. ...

Fragrance Review: Parfums Gres Cabochard Vintage and Reorchestrated

Cabochard, meaning “headstrong,” is an example of how a chypre fragrance can embody confidence and independence, playing upon the austere and dry qualities of the genre. At the same time, its aloof air is seductive, as some mysteries can be. It does not bestow its favours lightly, hiding its delicate floral heart under the dark layers of smoky leather and green notes. One feels compelled to unlock its secrets, revisiting again and again, and falling deeper and deeper into the rabbit hole.

Not only was Cabochard very successful at the time of its release in 1959, its leather chypre composition inspired many subsequent fragrances. Therefore, its inclusion among the legends of French perfumery by Michael Edwards is only to be expected.  ...

Perfumer Isabelle Doyen of Annick Goutal

Isabelle Doyen says that she became a perfumer through a convergence of circumstances. At the age of 4, she asked herself how a pear can smell of rose and a rose smell of pear. She found this mystery dizzying. She was intrigued by the notion of perfume and she thought that it was a very unique pursuit. Now, it has been 18 years, since she has been practicing the art of perfumery. From SFP.

She created the following fragrances for Annick Goutal: Ce Soir Ou Jamais, Duel, Eau du Fier, Eau du Sud, Gardenia Passion, Grand Amour, Les Nuits d’ Hadrien, Mandragore, Petite Cherie, Sables, Vanille Exquise, and Songes, to be released in 2006. Her other fragrance is Eau du Prince Jardinier by Prince Jardinier.

Fragrance Review: Hermes Ambre Narguile from Hermessence Collection

Sweet, warm and delicately animalic aroma of amber is not the only reason why this note is such a popular presence in the modern perfumery. It has an ability to round out other notes, smoothing the progression from one accord to another and fixing more delicate aspects of the composition in place. Its sensuality has a soft quality, which means that amber laden fragrances have a seductive subtlety.

The most beautiful aspects of amber shine in Ambre Narguilé, which was created in 2004 by Jean-Claude Ellena as a part of Hermèssence range. Like his other amber focused L’Artisan L’Eau d’Ambre, Ambre Narguilé does not merely hint at the idea of amber, but develops it fully. Yet, while being a rich voluptuous note, amber in Ambre Narguilé does not obscure other notes layered over it. It provides a beautiful backdrop against which the radiant and smoky facets of the composition unfold. It is strong, yet delicate, like carved marble screens of Mogul palaces.  ...

Scent of Fame: Celebrity Fragrance Britney Spears, Paris Hilton, Jennifer Lopez and others

Walking through the fragrance aisles of Sephora makes me feel as if I am browsing through a Hello magazine with the names like Britney Spears, J.Lo, Paris Hilton, and Kimora Lee Simmons popping before my eyes. However, I am selecting the fragrances labeled with names famous for things that are only tangentially related to fashion and fragrance on purpose. Currently, there is a strong trend for celebrity fragrances, with new offerings coming up what seems like every week. From Celine Dion to Nicole Richie and Maria Sharapova, celebrity status and perfume come hand in hand. From a perfume industry perspective, any brand capable of selling fragrance is welcomed, given the changes in its business model and the high rate of competition. The number of releases is increasing each year, with the consumers exhibiting less and less loyalty to a single scent. While the number of new fragrances in the 1950s were around 10-20 per year, with the average market life of a product around 15-20 years, in the recent decade, there are close to 150-200 launches each year, with the market life averaging 3!

I cannot help but feel a bit of reticence, especially in light of the fact that I have no particularly strong desire for any specific celebrity perfume, simply because it bears a famous name. Should I happen to dislike the celebrity in question (and in some cases, I indeed do not harbour much admiration), then I might be less eager to try their perfume. However, are such pre-conceived notions justified? In order to answer this question, I stand in front of fragrance shelves in Sephora resolutely glancing past Annick Goutal and Bvlgari to try Alan Cumming The Fragrance and Britney Spears Fantasy. I briefly contemplate a blind testing, however for the sake of preserving a sane appearance, I decide that an open mind shall do. ...

Fragrance Review: Lancome 2000 et Une Rose

The rose is indelibly associated with Lancôme, given its founder Armand Petitjean’s strong passion for this flower. An avid rosarian, he cultivated roses in his garden in Ville d'Avray, outside of Paris and as a result, not only has the rose become an important symbolic representation of the house, but it has also found a central place in the Lancôme fragrances from Conquête (1935) to Trésor (1990). To commemorate the millennium, Lancôme chose its symbol to shine in a fragrance composed of several different types of roses, such as dune rose, musk rose and Bulgarian rose.

The task of creating an outstanding rose fragrance is complicated by the fact that the theme has seen many variations, from the dark chypric to the light citrusy roses, from the languidly seductive to the coyly delicate interpretations. Composed by Christine Nagel, 2000 et Une Rôse is a rose that tantalizingly straddles the line between natural and abstract. ...

Fragrance News: Laura Tonatto Perfume for Hermitage

The new fragrance by an Italian perfumer Laura Tonatto is inspired by Caravaggio’s "The Lute Player." The fruits and flowers depicted in the painting by an Italian Baroque artist are recreacted in the nine fragrances, three fruity and six floral. The tenth fragrance combines all nine notes in order to evoke a scent that might have filled the painting. The cylinders with gel perfumes will be on display until November 20th, 2005 at The Hermitage, St. Petersburg, the permanent residence "The Lute Player." The fragrance will be released as a limited edition of 1000 bottles.

Caravaggio. The Lute-Player. c.1595-1596. Oil on canvas. The Hermitage, St. Petersburg, Russia. From abcgallery.com.