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January 23, 2006

Fragrance Review: Rose d'Amour by Les Parfums de Rosine

Rossetti27

A flower of many symbols, rose originated in Persia, where it was considered to be a masculine flower and a flower representing the divine, the ultimate achievement and perfection, since a fragrant blossom crowns its long, thorny stem. Possessing additional symbolism of secrecy and mystery, rose eventually became associated with beauty and love. Hindu goddess of prosperity Lakshmi, whose beauty was considered unrivaled, is supposed to have been born from a rose composed of 108 large and 1,008 small petals. Roman goddess of love, Venus, counted rose among her emblems.

In this light, it is fitting that the newest Les Parfums de Rosine fragrance should intertwine the themes of love and rose. Rose d’Amour was created by Camille Latron, the nose behind Rosa Flamenca. The aldehydic touch makes Rose d’Amour as classical as a bouquet of red roses. However, in contrast to the classical interpretations, Rose d’Amour is barely touched by the sparkling aldehydic veil, which lends a lovely luminous counterpoint to the rich floral motif coursing through the arrangement. ...

Unlike most Rosine fragrances, which are a rainfall of rose petals from the very start, Rose d’Amour reveals a completely new side. The green and spicy top accord is reminiscent of snapping juicy stems and spilling sticky juice on the fingers. Crispy and vivid at first, its dewy sparkle soon begins to warm up, segueing into the powdery softness of the heart inlaid with velvety rose petals.

The composition has a warm silky quality, with the rose toned down by the violet woodiness to a gentle whisper. The vegetal element persists into the drydown, foiling the honeyed sweetness and earthiness of the base. Rose d’Amour is a soft fragrance that will not announce its presence to the whole room, even though it will delicately caresses its wearer.

Les Parfums de Rosine is directed by Marie-Hélène Rogeon who is a descendant of the founder of the original Parfums de Rosine house, Paul Poiret. Approximately fifty perfumes were released by Poiret, a famous couturier of the 20th century, many of which were designed by Henri Alméras, the creator of Jean Patou Joy. However, when Marie-Hélène Rogeon decided to revive Parfums de Rosine in 1991, the reintroduction of the old formulas was decided against in favour of new compositions exploring the theme of roses, from the scintillating Ecume de Rose to the woody chypric Une Folie de Rose. Many of the fragrances were composed by François Robert (and Roseberry by Pierre Bourdon), with the latest compositions created by Camille Latron. The house offers great options both for those who already love roses and for those who are convinced that rose is an old-fashioned theme. The Rosine fragrance might change that impression, especially with the apple sweetened Rose d'Été and the citrusy Un Zest de Rose.

Notes include ginger, galbanum, bergamot, aldehyde, rosebud, essences of roses, iris, jasmine, moss, musk, pepper, vetiver. Rose d’Amour samples, 50ml and 100ml bottles are currently available at First-in-Fragrance.

Painting: Dante Gabriel Rossetti. Venus Verticordia. 1864-1868. Oil on canvas. Rossetti Cotes Art Gallery and Museum, Bournemouth, UK. From abcgallery.com

Next on the rose topic: Exploration of the sinister side of rose. Serge Lutens Rose de Nuit.

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