Fragrance Review: Space NK Melodrama

Melodrama was created by the perfumer Christopher Sheldrake (the nose behind Serge Lutens fragrances) for Space.NK, a perfumery in Covent Garden, London. It is a fragrance that pays homage to the 1920s, although its composition is closer to the aldehydic floral chypre like Millot Crêpe de Chine (1925), Weil Zibeline (1928) and Hermès Calèche (1961), than to the aldehydic floral like Chanel No.5 (1921). It marries the sparkling floral aldehydic canvas with the classical chypre accord, the mossy woodiness of which beautifully complements the sweet floral notes.

Beginning true to its name, Melodrama explodes with a firework of aldehydes that settle into an opaque veil over the top accord. A metallic green notes cuts through the aldehydic whiteness, allowing the floral notes to appear one by one. The sweetness of jasmine rises up to enfold the velvety note of bergamot, its sparkle dimmed in the white floral heart. ...

Fragrance News: Czech & Speake Dark Rose

Contrary to the rumours, Czech & Speake Dark Rose is not discontinued. The company responds that "we have not taken this decision at all. As far as we are concerned, production will resume as soon as possible. Many thanks for your interest in our products." Czech & Speake fragrances can be ordered directly from Czech & Speake website. Or contact Habiba (Bibi) Diarra at Tel: +44 208 983 7400/Fax: +44 208 981 7232. Thank you Micki for the information!

Fragrance Review: Serge Lutens Chergui

Chergui stings with the hot spices that cover the skin like fine grains of sand, sharp, slightly abrasive and warm. Romantically named after the blood-boiling Moroccan wind that blows in off the desert during the summer, Chergui has the spicy intensity, yet its hot breath is tamed by the sweet and floral elements. Created in 2001 by Christopher Sheldrake, it is an Arabian Nights vignette in a liquid form.

The candied quality melts in the smoke whispers that fill the arrangement, like incense smoke seeping through the carved screens. The floral accord folded into the smoky layers of Chergui lightens density and sweetness, lending a voluptuous silky quality. The fine cured Virginia tobacco notes overlaid on the smoky leathery base give the composition a slightly masculine character, counterbalancing the sweet notes....

Fragrance News: Chanel Appoints Christopher Sheldrake

Chanel has appointed Christopher Sheldrake as their new director of research and development for fragrances, reporting to perfumer Jacques Polge. Sheldrake was previously employed by Quest International and he is the nose for a majority of fragrances from Serge Lutens line. It is unclear based on the information available whether he will be exclusively retained by Chanel, or whether he will continue working for Serge Lutens as well. From Cosmeticnews.

Fragrance Article: Perfume and Politics, the Story of Coty

"Two natural endowments are necessary to a fine perfumer—good taste and an olfactory nerve suited to segregating not only kinds of odors but their qualities. Coty's gift for his career was an olfactory nerve, marvellously talented and acute. Its judgment, incidentally, was once unquestioningly accepted by a rival who was bringing suit. Though he began by exporting essences from the flower fields of Grasse on the Riviera, and can still be recalled later peddling his perfumes to the barbers of Paris, it was by way of his bottles that he really broke into the big perfume business of Europe," said the fascinating article about François Coty published on May 3rd of 1930. Read the rest from the New Yorker archives. It is fitting to include an article on Coty this week. After all, his first fragrance La Rose Jacqueminot has been a major success.

Work prevents me from offering a longer article today, however I shall be back next week with the discussion of Shisiedo Nombre Noir and damascones, the materials that can range from roses to dried figs. Their glow is what illuminates Nombre Noir, gives interesting complexity to Guerlain Nahema and fills the lucid heart of Be Delicious for Men.

Fragrance Shopping: Iunx

For those who would like to stock up on Iunx products before the store closes, they can be obtained at Taizo in Cannes (telephone: 33-493395758). Taizo ships to the States, unlike other places where Iunx can be obtained. The shipping fee is between 15-20 euros. Thank you Judith for information.

From White to Red, From Chaste to Seductive: Many Faces of Rose

“Each rose that comes brings me greetings
from the Rose of an eternal spring,”
Rabindranth Tagore, Bengali poet

If jasmine is the King of flowers, rose is most certainly the Queen. Whether one prefers the smiling and effervescent roses, like Hermèssence Rose Ikebana, Les Parfums de Rosine Un Zest de Rose and Parfums 06130 Yuzu Rouge or the somber oriental and chypre like Serge Lutens Rose de Nuit, Montale Aoud Queen Roses and Frédéric Malle Une Rose, the diversity in the world of roses is both fascinating and astounding. Just as aromas of fresh roses can range from apricots to violet jam, the fragrances exploring roses can offer a great variety. Attempting to provide a full overview of roses in the modern perfumery is an impossible task, therefore I shall limit myself to offering a few favourite examples of the rose focused fragrances that demonstrate a particular character and style.

The classical aldehydic florals cannot be envisioned with a rose, glowing in their hearts like a precious jewel, its honeyed sweetness and vegetal richness supporting an opalescent veil of aldehydes. Chanel No.5 is the archetypal aldehydic floral, while Guerlain Liu is Jacques Guerlain’s answer to Ernest Beaux, whose other creation Chanel No.22 gathers a bouquet of white flowers, rose caught among lilacs, orange blossom and jasmine and anointed with myrrh. ...

Fragrance Shopping: Beautyhabit Valentine's Day Gift Suggestions

Beautyhabit is offering various Valentine's Day gift suggestions, from pink rose scented Diptyque Roses candle to the sandalwood and saffron embellished Idole de Lubin. See more gift ideas here. Spend $85 or more and receive a 2 piece box of Coco Delice chocolates along with a bounce back $15 coupon, which can be applied to any $100 or more order from Beautyhabit. The offer expires on February 15, 2006. The bounce back coupon expires on June 30, 2006. Use COCODELICE coupon to receive this offer.

Fragrance Review: L'Artisan Parfumeur Voleur de Roses

Rose is often considered as a quintessential feminine flower, a flower that represents woman in different stages of her life, a flower that men traditionally give to the women they love. The pronounced rose notes in the modern perfumery are usually reserved for feminine compositions, despite the fact that this fascinating flower appears into 75% of all modern fragrances and into 10% of all men’s scents. In the Middle East, where rose is traditionally considered masculine, the yellow rose being the symbol of Islam, it finds way into fragrances intended for men much more often than it does in the West. Since rose is usually interpreted as sweet, lush and soft, it is interesting to experience creations that highlight its masculine side, such as Serge Lutens Rose de Nuit, Les Parfums  de Rosine Rose d'Homme and L’Artisan Parfumeur Voleur de Roses.

Created by Michel Almairac in 1993, Voleur de Roses speaks of rose blossoms covered with wet soil. Patchouli creates a heavy feeling that pervades the atmosphere after the rainstorm as the humid vapours rise over the drenched vegetation....

Perfume Article: Amazing Discovery of Ambergris

A fascinating article about an Australian couple who picked up a fatty lump from a beach on the West Coast. The South Australian West Coast ambergris weighs around 14.75 kilograms. The current price for a gram of ambergris is approximately $20, and even this seems like a low estimate. As ABC West Coast article states, “It has been a welcome relief to the West Coast family who found it, as they are one of a number of professional fishers without their livelihood owing to the closure of the garfish fishery at the western end of Venus Bay.” Also see this story reported on BBC. Thank you for the link, M!

Fragrance Review: Serge Lutens Rose de Nuit

French fauvist painter Henri Matisse once observed that “there is nothing more difficult for a truly creative painter than to paint a rose, because before he can do so he has first to forget all the roses that were ever painted.” The same could be said about the perfumer and the art of creating a rose fragrance. At once familiar and desirable, the rose theme has been explored in the modern perfumery quite widely, which means that creating something new and daring requires not only forgetting the classical traditions, but also being able to erase the familiarity, to surprise and to even shock.

The beauty of Rose de Nuit, created by the perfumer Gilles Romey lies in its abstraction of a delicate blossom into a nocturnal animalic scent, as if the petals slowly transform into the warm skin. Every single quality one might expect of rose—sweetness, powderiness, brightness, is twisted into its opposite. Where the roses might evoke delicate softness, Rose de Nuit sheds dark petals, withered at the edges. ...

Fragrance Preview: Aquolina Chocolovers

The new Aquolina fragrance Chocolovers is already released for sale. Notes are bergamot, orange, lemon, lily of the valley, coriander, hazelnut, vanilla, malt, musks. The composition explores the gourmand theme of chocolate, just in time for Valentine’s Day. The initial impression of the fragrance is Bacio, an Italian chocolate and hazelnut candy, which is contains a love note under its wrapper—a romantic variant on the Chinese fortune cookie theme. The sweet and nutty creaminess is foiled with the tinge of bittersweet darkness which slowly melts into the rounded oriental base of woods and musk. The chocolate richness underscores the base, attaining a sweet caramelized edge. Although Chocolovers would undeniably appeal to those who love sweet gourmand fragrances that do not resort to abstraction to render the dessert, it is a rather sophisticated and nicely done composition.

Available at Sephora in the EDT, body cream, bath foam, body scrub and bath hearts.

Fragrance Review: Rose d'Amour by Les Parfums de Rosine

A flower of many symbols, rose originated in Persia, where it was considered to be a masculine flower and a flower representing the divine, the ultimate achievement and perfection, since a fragrant blossom crowns its long, thorny stem. Possessing additional symbolism of secrecy and mystery, rose eventually became associated with beauty and love. Hindu goddess of prosperity Lakshmi, whose beauty was considered unrivaled, is supposed to have been born from a rose composed of 108 large and 1,008 small petals. Roman goddess of love, Venus, counted rose among her emblems.

In this light, it is fitting that the newest Les Parfums de Rosine fragrance should intertwine the themes of love and rose. Rose d’Amour was created by Camille Latron, the nose behind Rosa Flamenca. The aldehydic touch makes Rose d’Amour as classical as a bouquet of red roses. However, in contrast to the classical interpretations, Rose d’Amour is barely touched by the sparkling aldehydic veil, which lends a lovely luminous counterpoint to the rich floral motif coursing through the arrangement. ...

Fragrance Shopping: Annick Goutal Songes

New York’s Bergdorf Goodman already has testers of the newest Annick Goutal fragrance Songes (please see my Songes review). Songes is available as EDP spray 50 ml, EDT spray 50 ml or 100 ml, gorgeous Moon bottle EDP 100 ml, Perfumed body cream, Shower Gel. The fragrance can also be ordered by emailing Annick Goutal shop@annickgoutal.nl The official release is now slated for March of 2006. See moon bottle and read more about this fragrance comprised of frangipani, ylang-ylang, jasmine, sandalwood and vanilla on Annick Goutal website.

Fragrance News: Serge Lutens Chypre Rouge and Yves Rocher Ode a l’amour

Chypre Rouge will join the export line as the newest fragrance from Serge Lutens. Available as Haute Concentration EDP, it will be released in the fall of 2006. Thanks to Cédric of Basenotes.

Yves Rocher is releasing two new fragrances for Valentine’s Day. Ode a l'amour tendrement contains almond, hawthorn, Mirabelle plum, may blossom, musk. Ode a l'amour passionnement is comprised of apple, Szechuan pepper, Mirabelle plum and vanilla. Both fragrances are available from the Yves Rocher website for $9/1oz (special internet offer price). I have not tried these fragrances yet, but I should note that many of Yves Rocher fragrances are very good and are created by famous noses. For instance, the latest Voile d’Ambre was created by Olivier Pescheux and Pur Désir de Lilas (also Lys, Rose, Gardenia and Lavande) were composed by Annick Menardo.

Starting Next Week: Rose for A Valentine

With only a few weeks before the Valentine Day, I shall start writing about the flower that is full of symbols, many of which are pertinent to the day celebrating love. "A floral symbol sacred to Venus and signifying love, the quality and nature of which was characterized by the color of the rose. A symbol of purity, a white rose represented innoncent love, while a pink rose represented first love, and a red rose true love," says the Dictionary of Art. At the same time, rose conceals many secrets under its silky petals. 'Mystery glows in the rose bed, the secret is hidden in the rose,' sang the Persian poet and perfumer, Farid ud-din Attar, in the twelfth century. Is love ever an easy to understand concept anyway?

Therefore, I shall try to cover as many different aspects of rose as possible, from its innocent side to its seductive, femme fatale persona.

Please come back on Monday to read my review of the newest fragrance by Les Parfums de Rosine Rose d'Amour.

Fragrance Review: Van Cleef & Arpels First

Contemplating a quintessential classical fragrance, Chanel No.5 and Lanvin Arpège immediately come to mind. The aldehydes add shimmer to the flowers in the opulent floral bouquets of these great classics, interspersing the petals with the diamond dust of aldehydic fizz. Creating a fragrance in the classical spirit is an exacting task, because composing something novel becomes more challenging. In this sense, Van Cleef & Arpels First encompasses both the classicism and the spirit of innovation. Intended as the first fragrance for the jewel house Van Cleef & Arpels, a fragrance that would sparkle like a jewel, First transforms luminescence into the form of scent. From its brilliant top note to the resplendent heart and radiant base, it shines like a perfectly cut diamond and feels like a smooth South Sea pearl.

First was the fragrance that marked the inception of Jean-Claude Elléna’s great career. Even though his Sisley Eau de Campagne came out in 1974, First’s debut in 1976 was an even bigger success. Experiencing the fragrance, it is not difficult to understand why, because the composition has a seamless and perfectly polished quality with the notes melding one into another, drawing one into the languid sensation of the composition. ...

Sean John Unforgivable Ad May Be Too Hot

P.Diddy caused another stir with his racy ad shot for the new Sean John label fragrance Unforgivable (if you are curious, you can read my review of the fragrance). The ad shows Sean Combs wrapped in sheets with two women, one Caucasian and one Asian. The ad caused such a stir that the parent company Estée Lauder began to shoot a new "store-friendly" ad. The original ad will be used by Sephora (the only retailer to use it) and the billboards.

The global brand president of Estée Lauder John Demsey stood by Sean Combs’ original decision, "We believe the ads represent the true spirit of Unforgivable. This fragrance is about a man who lives his life with passion and, unapologetically, we respect Sean Combs' creative perspective and support him in his vision. While it's unfortunate that some retailers were so uncomfortable with something with that much sexual presence, we respect their decision to do what is right for them." Via New York Post and other news sources.

Fragrance Review: Iunx L'Ether

Ether, the substance that according to Greek doctrines was the celestial essence breathed by the gods and which was considered to be "less than the vehicle of visible light" by the ancient phisophers, cannot be a more appropriate name for a creation by Olivia Giacobetti, whose fragrances are marked by weightlessness and radiance.

If L’Ether cannot be called “the divine celestial fire”—the Greek word aither is derived from the root aith-, meaning “burn”—it is only because its beauty is available to mere mortals. In many ways, L’Ether is the example of compositions Giacobetti excels in—sheer luminosity modulated by the mysterious smokiness of incense. The effect is at once delicate and powerful. It is most closely related to Costes and Passage d’Enfer through the transparent incense that fills its base. ...

Excerpts from Barney's Interview with Serge Lutens

Work interferes today, therefore I do not have a review. Instead, I would like to share a very interesting interview with Serge Lutens I discovered via Barney's catalogue. After reading it, I feel inspired to wear Ambre Sultan today.

Why fragrance? After years as a make-up artist and photographer, what attracted you to this world?
I don’t think that I’ve switched from one world to another. I believe that it is an extension of myself in other realms of creativity. In that sense I can say that my fragrances make me grow creatively. As for my choices, things are not always what they seem. For instance, in the first part of my life, make-up for me was not really about make-up. Images were what it was all about. For me, perfume making is a language. Essences for me are what words could be for a writer. They are tools of expression. ...

Fragrance Review: Balmain Jolie Madame

Meeting Jolie Madame for the first time is an encounter that leaves one intrigued by the unpredictable personality of this beautiful stranger. The dazzling shimmer of the green floral notes has a lighthearted character, however as soon as one is ready to see a smile of its dewy heart, the veil of leathery smokiness falls darkening the gentle features.

Yet, predictability is not the quality that Germaine Cellier’s creations possess. One of the most avant-garde perfumers, she worked against the classical tradition by exploring the raw materials that most perfumers of her time would reject for their crude potency and strength. She was not afraid to overdose Balmain Vent Vert with galbanum, which made the fragrance seem as if it were exploding on the skin into the cascade of emerald dust. The original version of her Bandit possessed so much animalic robustness, it seemed almost shocking to wear in public. ...

Fragrance Review: Serge Lutens Gris Clair...

In contrast to the opulent oriental themes that dominate the Serge Lutens collection, the newest release from the house, Gris Clair... possesses a cool and restrained aura, painting a vision of a mountain pass veiled in damp mists. Clean and subtle is not the new direction for Serge Lutens and Christopher Sheldrake, whose Clair de Musc and Fleurs de Citronnier explore the sensuality of musk and its affinity with transparent florals. However, Gris Clair... is different still, because its simplicity and abstraction are explored to the greater extent than in any other composition by Serge Lutens.

The lavender and ash pairing, around which the composition is constructed, immediately might provoke comparisons with Encens et Lavande, a fragrance of herbaceous brightness laced with floral sweetness of lavender and resinous incense. However, the comparison would be misleading, because Gris Clair... does not approach the smokiness of Encens et Lavande nor its complexity. ...

Perfume News: L'Artisan Parfumeur Narcissus

L'Artisan Narcissus is another fragrance from the special harvest series that saw the release of Fleur d'Oranger in 2005. The new fragrance is composed using narcissus harvested on June 6th and 7th, 2005, in Lozère, southern France. Read about it and the millésime trend of L'Artisan and Givenchy fragrances in the article by Chandler Burr in NYT.

Narcissus oil is produced from several species of narcissus, Narcissus poeticus, N. tazetta, and N. jonquilla. The scent is heady and rich, reminiscent of dark green foliage hiding the scattering of jasmine and hyacinth blossoms. 

Fragrance Review: Plus Que Jamais Guerlain

A fan of scent strips in my hand allows me to travel through the hallmarks of the venerable house’s history—Jicky, Après l'Ondée, L’Heure Bleue, Mitsouko, Shalimar, Vol de Nuit…. The accords making these fragrances memorable strike me like a handful of colourful jewels, whether it might be the civet laced richness of Jicky, the violet melancholy of Après l'Ondée, or the burnished ambery glow of Attrape-Coeur. The common golden thread in these Guerlain fragrances is the velvety, powdery accord based around orris known as Guerlinade. Embellished with rose, jasmine, tonka bean, and amber, among other notes, Guerlinade is the silky veil that softens the sharp edges and lends a whisper of delicious sweetness with an intriguing incensy touch. Guerlinade can be subtle or obvious, a gentle accent or an unequivocal proposal; however its presence in most Guerlain fragrances ensures an ability to trace lineage from Shalimar to Attrape Coeur.

Plus Que Jamais is the fragrance created by Jean-Paul Guerlain to commemorate the reopening of La Maison Guerlain at 68, Avenue des Champs-Elysées in Paris (please see my article about the boutique here). Opulent composition, Plus Que Jamais is indeed “more than ever” Guerlain, with its arrangement sustained on the ornate oriental base layering vanilla, amber, iris and enchantingly earthy vetiver into a vision of silk shimmering with gold embroidery. ...

Fragrance Review: Lancome Hypnose

There are times when one has cravings for a fragrance that merely teases with its mouthwatering associations, almost taking one to the patisserie, but not quite. Hypnôse is such a composition, a pleasant sorbet of a fragrance that at first melts lusciously enveloping one in tropical fruit tartness and creamy vanilla, and then fades into the pleasant aftertaste of musky woods.

The frangipani drizzled with peach nectar opening of Hypnôse is layered with green jasmine, the lacy opulence of which serves as a nice counterpoint to the fruit compote in which the composition is liable to drown. The tropical fruitiness is however not overly sweet, and while the accord is not an impressionistic melody, it is not a glassy photorealistic rendition either, remaining between a flower and a fruit mélange. Hypnôse is reminiscent of Sicilian confections of sugar, candied pumpkin and almonds, scented with jasmine water. Just like these candies leave a taste of summer flowers on the lips, Hypnôse retains a touch of floral sweetness as it unfolds into one vanilla foiled layer after another. ...

Fragrance News: Delices de Cartier

Cartier unveils its newest fragrance, Délices de Cartier, the floral scent created by Christine Nagel, which includes "top notes of cherry with jasmine in the heart and amber and vanilla at the base." The fragrance is inspired by the Cartier jewellery collection. The launch is first supposed to take place in March, with distribution in 250 Cartier boutiques worldwide, and will continue in April, with distribution in selected retailers. From cosmeticnews.

Fragrance Review: Narciso Rodriguez for Her and Sarah Jessica Parker Lovely

Chypre category with its strong accord based on the interplay of hesperidic, floral, woody and mossy facets has gathered popularity since 1917, when Coty Chypre intriguingly explored the extremes of olfactory spectrum to create a memorable and unusual fragrance weaving bergamot, oak moss, labdanum, and patchouli . Subsequently, the affinity of the chypre accord with the voluptuous fruity and floral notes has been discovered, resulting in the orchestrations that fused various flowers, peach (Guerlain Mitsouko, Rochas Femme), plum (Guerlain Parure, Shiseido Féminité Du Bois), as well as exotic fruit (Jean Patou Colony) with the classical chypre accords. The marriage of chypre with other notes is likewise fascinating, with fragrances like Grès Cabochard and Robert Piguet Bandit being examples of the animalic leather chypres, and Dior Diorella, Clinique Aromatics Elixir and Couturier Coriandre exhibiting the beautiful interplay of chypre accords with modern synthetics such as hedione.

While the popularity of the classical chypre has waned, the chypre category is hardly ignored. Ralph Lauren Pure Turquoise, Lulu Guiness Cast a Spell, Dior Miss Dior Cherie, Chanel Chance, Coco Mademoiselle EDT are the examples of the fragrances released in the past couple of years and classified as posssessing chypre accords. The very definition of the chypre seems to be changing, with the emphasis made on the transparent and fruity notes combined with the chypre facets, and many fragrances classified as chypre these days do not even seem to be related to the classical chypre accords. Narciso Rodriguez for Her and Sarah Jessica Parker Lovely are two examples of the classification that would consider them as floral oriental compositions with chypre accords and they are often compared. The main similarity between them is in their luxurious musk accords touched with the ambery warmth that makes these compositions melt beautifully on the skin, and while the fragrances are by no means identical, they create a similar effect of warm, sensual softness.  Now, whether chypre classification might applicable here is a whole another story. ...

Perfume Watch

Perfume and watches? Venexx fuses the two, creating a watch that makes it possible to enjoy perfume anytime and anywhere. Each perfume watch contains approximately 60 spray dosages of perfume, which can be refilled as needed. Perfume watches are available from Sephora.

Fragrance Review: Frederic Malle Editions de Parfums L’Eau d’Hiver and Paul & Joe Blanc

“The icicles, which seemed to have been deliberately hung in different lengths from all the eaves, were incredibly beautiful and looked like waterfalls of crystal,” writes Sei Shonagon in The Pillow Book, a beautiful example of the classical Japanese prose from the 10th century. The silvery glitter of ice, the sparkling expanse of whiteness with an occasional glimpse of bare black branches, the metallic taste of snow on the lips--winter instills serenity and melancholy in the scenes that ordinarily would strike one as quotidian. The chill of winter in fragrances is usually expressed through the usage of the icy notes of iris, the white musk accords marked by the radiant metallic freshness as well the touches of ozonic elements to create the crisp effect of cold air.

Jean-Claude Ellena’s Frédéric Malle L’Eau d’Hiver (2003) and Paul & Joe Blanc (2003) are often compared, however while there are similarities, the fragrances are sufficiently different that a predilection for one would not necessarily mean liking for another. Yet, they both share the white powdery accord woven into the arrangement. Jean-Claude Ellena cites Après l'Ondée as his inspiration for L’Eau d’Hiver, which took the classical structure of the Guerlain classic, refined it to the essential features and added a scintillating hesperidic top. ...

Fragrance News: New Rosine Rose d'Amour

New rose fragrance is debuting from Les Parfums de Rosine line. It is called Rose d'Amour. It was created by Camille Latron, the nose behind Rosa Flamenca. Notes include ginger, galbanum, bergamot, aldehyde, rosebud, essences of roses, iris, jasmine, moss, musk, pepper, vetiver.

Fragrance Review: Paul & Joe Bleu

For a lover of oriental compositions, Bleu created by Pierre Bourdon, with its ambery notes folded into the velvety creaminess of woods and vanilla, would be a nice discovery. Fairly classical composition at first glance, it weaves the sweet incense and tobacco nuances of oud into its rich veil, creating an interesting orchestration that calls to mind nocturnal images. At the same time, experiencing Bleu makes one understand why oriental compositions are often compared to cashmere, for its gently powdery drydown embraces the skin in the warm and soft fashion.

The initial impression suggests a sparkling spicy composition with the complementarities of cool spices and bergamot, the crisp tartness of which barely hints at the sensuality of patchouli and the powdery sweetness of coumarin underscoring the base. The crystalline quality of the top notes melts away under the intensifying effervescence of spices. ...

The Geisha Influence: Serge Lutens on Japanese Inspirations

Serge Lutens talks about the influence of geisha traditions in his work as a make-up artist in the Sunday Times Online article, The Look of Geisha (scroll down to section titled "The Geisha Influence").

Photo: Maiko, apprentice geisha from www.livingwell-mag.net.

Osmoz on Fragrance Trends: India

Osmoz explores the fragrance trends that revolve around India, offering selections of fragrances and explanations of raw materials sourced from India. Read about the scents of India on Ozmos website. Thanks to N. for a link!

Photo: Bollywood actress Aishwarya Rai.

Perfume Article: Sweet Smell of New Jersey?

In the fall, the denizens of part of New York City and New Jersey noticed a strange smell reminiscent of maple syrup. A number of theories as to its origins have resurfaced, from terrorist attacks to fragrance and flavor industry emissions. New Jersey seems to be the prime suspect of the smell. New York Times article continue to probe the origins of smell, including interviews with companies such as International Flavor & Fragrances, which has two plants in New Jersey, in Hazlet (Monmouth County) and Dayton (Middlesex County). Read it here.

I apologize for the lack of promised article on Paul & Joe Bleu today, however since it is the last day of my vacation, there are certain things I must finish before classes start again. Hence, I am taking a day off from Bois de Jasmin to enjoy the last real weekend before the end of May. Have a wonderful day, everyone! Please come back Monday for my article on Bleu, an oriental ambery fragrance by Bourdon.

Fragrance Review: Miller Harris En Sens de Bois

Lyn Harris founded her perfume line Miller Harris in 2000 and included fragrances ranging from the crisp Citron Citron to the delicately pretty Fleur du Matin. Nouvelle Line is a separate range of fragrances, having limited distribution, higher prices and exotic descriptions. The names alone are rather enticing: Cuir d’Oranger, Piment des Baies, Terre d’Iris…

En Sens de Bois is the newest fragrance from Miller Harris, and it was inspired by the scents of Japanese temples. The mere allusion to temple incense was enough to capture my attention, as my imagination immediately began to paint images of smokeless Japanese incense, the silky embrace of cedarwood and the resinous clarity of pine wood. ...

Fragrance Review: Lancome Climat

Poignantly elegant and refined, Climat is a beautiful arrangement in which green notes are set against the lustrous glow of aldehydes and then blended into the waterfall of flowers. It touches with its ability to remain like a piece of gossamer fabric floating in the wind, while possessing a decadently sensual richness afforded by the animalic notes on which Climat rests its diaphanous form.

Created by Gerard Goupy in 1967, Climat fits into the perfume landscape of the 1960s with its enchantment with clarity touched by verdancy and chilly elegance, ...

Fragrance News: Armani Privé Amethyst / Cuir Améthyste

The newest addition to Armani Privé Amethyst, according to the American, or Cuir Améthyste, according to the French press releases is described by the Armani catalogue as "velvety as the skin of a golden fruit, warm as vanilla pulp, ripe and sensuous as a sunny wood." The bottle will be capped by a hazy violet gemstone cap, like other Privé fragrances. The scent is slated to be a spring release for Armani and will appear in stores around March-April of 2006.

Fragrance Review: S-Perfume Lust and Sloth

Germaine Cellier and Edmond Roudnitska were among the creators who had a chance to compose their fragrances based solely on their own ideas of what the art of fragrance entailed. Roudnitska, who has devoted much effort to make fragrance acceptable as an art form, famously said that he does not allow someone else dictate to him as he composes his fragrances. Cellier rejected accepted cannons and produced a fascinating array of perfumes, from the unforgettable verdancy of crushed emeralds in Vent Vert to the menacing violet concealing the animalic darkness of Jolie Madame. However, in the current climate, it is not realistic to expect perfumers to be able to create in the same free manner without external constraints. What perfumers would want to create if they had the freedom is an interesting thought to ponder. Among the first people who attempted to make this viable was Frédéric Malle, whose idea of giving creative freedom to the renowned perfumers working for him has produced a great and interesting line of fragrances.

Sacré Nobi of S-Perfume also makes a bold step in the avant-garde direction with his line that explores the aesthetic sensibility of a modern artist and his fascination with the sense of smell....

Perfume News: Fragrances by Pierre Bourdon and Maurice Roucel

Pierre Bourdon has created a fragrance for Clarins called Ferre. The composition includes notes of freesia, ylang ylang and vanilla.

Maurice Roucel's newest fragrance is Nautica Voyage. The composition contains notes of green leaf, apple, mimosa, water lotus, cedar wood, musk, moss and woody amber.

Perfume Review: Annick Goutal Songes

Songes by Annick Goutal... Dreams is what every new year begins with… Dreams that one has a chance to travel to a new place, to discover new things, to meet new people and to change one’s own shortcomings. The very word—dreams, songes, sogni, mechty, or whatever other language one uses—has a character of something ethereal and yet intoxicating, capturing a moment of complete oblivion. Annick Goutal Songes is appropriately named, because losing oneself in its warm cloud of white jasmine delicately supported by the sweet woods is not unlike being in a dream-like state, when the whole world is submerged in the haze of intense contemplation.

Some of Annick Goutal fragrances are all about subtlety and perhaps too much so, from the transparent green freshness of Duel and the rainwater on violets of Eau de Ciel to the overly delicate whisper of Mandragore. However, Songes is unlike anything in the line, as it possesses a certain full-bodied richness that speaks of seduction and enchantment. The multifaceted top accord structured around jasmine breaks as if into the peals of bells. ...

Article on Lyn Harris in NYT

Read about Lyn Harris, creator of Miller Harris, and her obsession with cleanliness in New York Times article "The Nose Has Its Reasons".