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May 10, 2006

Lolita Lempicka L : Perfume Review

Lolita_lempicka_l

The contrast between the glitzy ornaments bedecking the Little Mermaid-like flacon and its voluptuous oriental contents is enough to make the newest fragrance from Lolita Lempicka, L, stand out in the crowd of placid summer editions and flankers (which, as I explained to my friend last night, are the perfume versions of movie sequels, and are usually just as disappointing). The burnt sugar and bitter herb redolent immortelle forms the main accord of L, which rests on the plush oriental base of vanilla, coumarin and sandalwood. The immortelle does not make it debut particularly often as the main note, and I can only think of a few fragrances where it unfolds in its sun burnt intensity, namely Annick Goutal Sables, Gobin Daudé Biche Dans L’Absinthe, and Christian Dior Eau Noire. Therefore, it was a surprise to pick up a bottle of Lolita Lempicka L and discover a bittersweet breath of dunes inside it. ...

The perfumer Maurice Roucel renders the immortelle notes in a subtle gourmand guise. Those who enjoy Roucel’s Musc Ravageur would recognize the same vanillic-ambery radiance elegantly punctuated by the fresh and spicy touches. The woody notes of the base are accented with the animalic sweetness. It is a romantic--or a fairy tale, if you will--vision of the sand dunes around the Mediterranean coast, where the savory aroma of immortelle, the only flowers that can withstand the scorching sun, is suspended in the warm air.

When I tried it the first time in the winter, I thought that however beautifully composed, L lacked a spark. If I already can find the beauty of immortelle in Sables and Eau Noire, why would I need L? Yet, I find myself enjoying its elegant and seamless composition and the softness of this traditionally strong and vivid note, especially now that the days are turning warmer. The more I revisit L, the more I am convinced that this was one of the new releases worth anticipating.

Available in the parfum and the Eau de Parfum concentrations, Lolita Lempicka L includes notes of bitter orange, bergamot, immortelle flower, musk, cinnamon, vanilla, tonka bean and sandalwood. It is available from various online etailers such as Scentiments. The online shoppers in the UK, can pre-order it from Escentual.

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