Sous le Vent by Guerlain : Perfume Review

The dryness of Sous Le Vent stings mildly before the caress of flower petals tempers the rustic feel of the herbal notes gracing the top accord. The perfume was created by Jacques Guerlain in 1934, and while I would not call it modern, it has a timeless quality of an artwork that moves with its beauty. In the classical chypre family, Sous Le Vent holds a place as a composition that blends the sensual elegance of Mitsouko and the roughhewn character of Coty Chypre, with the most intriguing result. While it touches in a gentler manner than the green leather of another fascinating Guerlain composition, Djedi, its embrace nevertheless has a passionate quality. ...

What upon the first inhale conjures the sun scorched hills of Cyprus, an island that gave chypre family its name, is magically transformed by the lush notes of ylang ylang and sweet spices into the vision of tropics, where the trees are covered with flower vines and the salty smell of ocean is carried by the winds.

The opulent richness of Guerlinade, an accord of iris, rose, tonka beans and amber, is beautifully paired with the verdant top and the animalic base, providing an olfactory respite from the assertive green notes. The sand-like dryness of Sous Le Vent softened by the classically rich floral heart lends a remarkable languid aura to the composition, thus maintaining the suspense between the more aggressive aspects of this complex orchestration. Sous Le Vent makes me want to close my eyes and feel the warmth of sun on my skin.

Along with Véga, Sous Le Vent was recently reissued by Guerlain, indicating that the future might bring more gems from its archives. While I have not tried the new edition, based on my experience with Véga, I am hopeful that it shall maintain the beauty of the original. Anyone who loves green chypres, especially in the baroque orchestration characteristic of Guerlain will find Sous Le Vent beautiful.

Update: I had a chance to try the reissued version of Sous Le Vent. I would recommend it without reservations to those who chypres as a genre. It is luminous and airy. The composition oscillates between the languid beauty of floral and woody notes and the aromatic brightness of herbs and citrus. The delightful contrast of the original is maintained well in the reissue. Of course, it is not identical to what Sous Le Vent used to be--the new version is thinner, lighter, lacking the delicious animalic notes of the original. Its lasting power is surprisingly weak, especially compared to the tenacity of the original (even the EDT.) However, given that Sous Le Vent is such a rare discovery, I am glad simply to see it being made once again. 

Sous Le Vent features notes of basil, bergamot, lavender, tarragon, carnation, oakmoss, iris, woods, patchouli. It is available from Guerlain boutiques. 

Comments

[carmencanada]

Dear V, I am glad you share my admiration of SLV. After sniffing it on my boyfriend's wrist (he actually made the trip to Guerlain to try to surprise me with a sample - they're not giving any out), I bought a full bottle.
I find it a rather restrained, complex scent, with various notes wafting in and out over the hours.
As you write, the leather note is quite soft and subdued (totally unlike the bite provided by scents such as Jolie Madame or Miss Dior), as is the patchouli base. The ylang-yland (which I initially mistook for jasmine) rounds it out, with the "green" lending it a slightly bitter tang. There is something that reminds me of anise (perhaps the tarragon?)...
I am only sorry that this is available solely in the eau de toilette concentration, not the best way to appreciate such a subtle scent!

[BoisdeJasmin]

Dear D, I also find it more subtle than what I originally expected, but I also have the EDT (from 40s-50s). Sounds like I need to seek out the reissue as well. Like you, I find Miss Dior much more assertive by comparison. I am fairly sure that Sous Le Vent includes jasmine as well as ylang ylang, since the ylang ylang note strikes me as more suave than what I would have expected. Wouldn't it be great to be able to try the parfum?

[agritty]

Does anybody know if or when it will be available in the States? I asked about it at the Bergdorf's Guerlain boutique about ten days ago, and they looked at me like I was from Mars! It sounds like a perfect fragrance for me, but I would really love to try it first.

[BoisdeJasmin]

Perhaps, towards the end of the summer? I am just making a guess, because so far, I have not heard the news of it appearing at the BG boutique. It just came out in Paris. Vega arrived to the States 6-8 months after it was released in France.

[Robin]

So...would I like it? I thought Vega was ok but no big deal.

[BoisdeJasmin]

R, Vega and Sous Le Vent are nothing alike, so I would not compare them. If you like green chypres like Miss Dior, you should enjoy SLV.

[Judith]

I think this is absoulutely beautiful! And, from the report from Paris, it sounds like the reiusse does it justice! Can't wait to try that. . .

[annE]

Dear V,
Thank you for a review which is as lovely as the name of the fragrance! I recently bought a vintage bottle (unsniffed *gasp*), having been intrigued by your previous mention of it, and I was immediately smitten. Thank you for helping me to find a new love. Since it's a lovely day here today, I will wear it in your honor. :)

[violetnoir]

I have one comment: Oh yeah!!!

Hugs!

[marina]

Oh, sounds amazing!!

[BoisdeJasmin]

Judith, I just love the fact that Guerlain decided to reissue some of their classics. Next, I would love Kadine.

[BoisdeJasmin]

Ann, I am glad that you are enjoying it. Thank you for wearing it in my honour! How flattering. I find Sous Le Vent beautiful and moving. The genius of Jacques Guerlain never fails to amaze me.

[BoisdeJasmin]

R (violetnoir), yes, a perfect comment! :)

[BoisdeJasmin]

M, it is amazing!

[Patty]

Victoria, I just got the reissue in yesterday. I can send you a sample of it if you want to compare the two and see how faithful they were. Just e-mail me your address since I have a terrible time keeping track of them.

Your review is perfection, this is a really wonderful perfume, and it surprised me in lots of ways.

[Diane]

Beautiful review, dear! A couple of weekends ago, when I was having a wonderful fragrance shopping day, I had on Coty Chypre, along with an amalgam of other green scents, namely Fou d'Absinthe and Givenchy III, and I became utterly fascinated by the resulting mossy bouquet. It was divine. I cannot wait to try Sous Le Vent. It sounds like a stunning chypre, one to behold over and over again.

[BoisdeJasmin]

Patty, thank you very much for your offer. It would be very interesting to compare them. I do hear wonderful things about the new reissue, so I am even more curious.

[BoisdeJasmin]

D, green chypres are among the most beautiful and elegant compositions, since they have most amazing complexity. You have just named a few of my absolute favourites. Sous le Vent stands firmly in their ranks.

[Karin]

This sounds like it might be right up my alley. I do love his compositions. Unfortunately there will be no place near me in which to catch a whiff. I'm always a bit leary of lavender.

[Cynthia K]

Great review! I have a question, what is a good source about vintage perfume bottles? I have been interested to learn more, but I am not sure where to start.

[BoisdeJasmin]

Karin, lavender is very subtle here, not the main player by any means. However, it addds a pleasant rustic touch to this elegant and refined composition.

[BoisdeJasmin]

Cynthia, the source I would recommend is anything by Christie Mayer Lefkowith. I would suggest starting with The Art of Perfumery and then exploring her other publications. The books are packed with information and they are quite beautiful to behold. I very much enjoy her books for their historical perspective and respect for the artistry. Of course, the International Perfume Bottle Association website has a number of links you could explore.