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June 07, 2006

Perfume Review: Emporio Armani White She/Elle

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Among Emporio Armani fragrances, White She (2001) stands out not only for its innovative composition, but also for its perfect synergy with the elegant, tailored look of Armani couture and prêt-a-porter lines. A fashion house famous for its immaculate fit and expensive fabric made a great choice in selecting the fragrance that eventually became Emporio Armani White She (or White Elle). I prefer White She to all other Emporio Armani fragrances, including its masculine counterpart. In fact, although labeled She, the composition has an almost androgynous feel. The perfume conjures cool silks and hot ironed linens with its transparent freshness, which slips off slowly revealing a silvery woody accord. …

Annie Buzantian makes a departure from her signature crystalline flowers in creating the polished wood accord of White She. Reminiscent of fine white bark covering birch trees, it is gently cradled in the radiance of white musk. It would be fair to say that Emporio Armani White She became the trendsetter for the white musk compositions having introduced an accord created by Alberto Morillas who also worked on the fragrance.

White is an adjective applied to synthetic musks marked by metallic nuance and radiant freshness. The cocktail of white musks in Emporio Armani White She created by Morillas (the nose behind Flower by Kenzo, Bulgari Omnia, Rochas Byzance, CK One, among numerous others) explores the full spectrum of these interesting aroma-materials. Their coolness, transparency and ironed fabric effect make for a perfect backdrop against which the delicate notes of Emporio White She sparkle—the spicy overture of ginger, the tart citrus and the tangy verdancy of fig leaves. As the composition unfolds in a panoramic style characteristic of modern fragrances--from icy freshness to fragile woods and radiant musks, the fragrance does not fail to maintain an effortlessly elegant aura.

I should mention that Emporio Armani White She should not be confused with Emporio Armani She, which came out in 1998. White She/Elle includes notes of bergamot, mandarin, ginger, blackcurrant leaf, fig leaf, mint, white woods, white musk. It does not seem to be available in the States, although the usual suspects, the online discounters such as Strawberrynet, carry it. European online shoppers can find it at Escentual.

Photo: Pantsuit from Spring 2006 Armani Prive collection. Style.com

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