Crazylibellule and The Poppies : Shanghaijava Collection Review

There is nothing better than to encounter a fragrance line that combines interesting scents with a sense of humour. Crazylibellule & The Poppies is the fragrance line established by Isabelle Masson-Mandonnaud, the founder of Shop8 (which was renamed Sephora after being sold to LVMH). In collaboration with the perfumers of Givaudan, Masson-Mandonnaud has created a range of solid fragrances, priced democratically at $16 each and available in thematic sets. The Shanghaijava Collection includes 7 fragrances, which explore different ideas, from woods to flowers, and present rather fun and unexpected combinations. Encens Mystic takes one into the church during an evening mass. Ginger & Coconut teases with its mouthwatering coconut chutney scent. ...

The exciting themes and the plentiful layering possibilities make this line very appealing. As with all solid perfumes, the fragrances stay close to the skin, rather than announcing their presence from afar. While the waxy texture is not unpleasant, I would advise rubbing them in thoroughly.

Encens Mystic is by far my favourite from the collection. In fact, its serene aura and rich composition is the main reason I have decided to acquire the rest of the Crazylibellule & The Poppies fragrances. Encens Mystic explores the same spicy incense wrapped into cedarwood as the peppery Armani Privé Bois d’Encens; however, the smoky vanilla serves to further round out the composition. It reminds me of sweet Orthodox incense, a fragrance that is at once dark and radiant, honeyed and dry.

Ginger & Coconut is a scent of coconut chutney. I almost envision a banana leaf folded to contain a fragrance paste of coconut crushed with spices and chilies. The coconut is milky and floral, providing a delicate hint, rather than the usual unctuous heft. The juicy tartness of lime accents the spicy bite of ginger. Embellished with cardamom and coriander, it almost makes my mouth water with its savory richness.

Musc & Patchouli explores a very appealing woody musky idea that is appealing on its own, but also serves as a great layering fragrance for many of the perfumes from the Shanghaijava collection as well as more traditional alcohol-based fragrances. A spray of a soliflore like Annick Goutal Le Jasmin or Jo Malone Orange Blossom over Musc & Patcholi makes for a very attracting pairing. The milky, seductive note of musk foils the woody sharpness of patchouli, which is actually rather subtle, lacking its characteristic winey earthiness.

Blue Orchid is a rich floral bouquet that reveals its jasmine heart upon the first inhale. A spicy note underpins the floral accord, while creamy woods frame the entire composition. It is rather elegant and voluptuous while it lasts. Unfortunately, I find that it vanishes rather quickly. To some extent, this can be rectified by layering the fragrance with Musc & Patchouli; however, this changes its character, allowing the musk notes to dominate.

Lilas Spiritual is a very pretty lilac tinged with vanilla. It starts out rather crisp, with a touch of lily of the valley lending a green freshness; however, it quickly assumes a sweet and spicy character. Not particularly complex, but quite lovely.

Certainly, it is rare in any collection that everything works perfectly. Litchi Blossom was one of the few fragrances from the collection that failed to impress me. It opens up on a harsh aromatic note that is closer to furniture polish than to the scent of a litchi fruit. Its presence obscures the delicate rose that lurks under the green pungency, while a minty note only further solidifies the functional product comparison.

Ananas Imperial is the scent of a fruit cocktail. If it were really a drink, it would come bedecked with maraschino cherries and pink umbrellas. By itself, Ananas Imperial is likely to appeal to those who love their fruity fragrances big and sweet. I do not fall into that category, therefore I experimented with layering. Musc & Patchouli + Ananas Imperial produced the most successful result. The citrusy sweetness of Ananas Imperial lent a vibrancy to the smooth richness of musk and woods, resulting in sweet, yet sophisticated fragrance.

The line is available from b-glowing in the US; Printemps, Bon Marché, Galleries Lafayette and Beauty Monop in France.