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May 21, 2008

New Perfume Releases to Anticipate : 2008 and Beyond

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It is now almost the end of May, and while it is too early to tally up the launches and pick favorites, I cannot resist making a list of upcoming fragrances that spark my curiosity. It is not a complete list of new launches, by any means, but simply a list I keep for myself of new perfumes that catch my eye for one reason or another. They may be coming from a brand I like, have an interesting story behind them or just seem like they could offer something different.

NEW: Serge Lutens El Attarine--attar, everlasting flowers, Serge Lutens's Morocco... It sounds like a Lutens classic in the making. Exclusive collection.

NEW: Serge Lutens Serge Noire --Another exciting Lutens to anticipate. Export collection.

NEW: Tom Ford White Patchouli, Italian Cypress, Arabian Wood--White Patchouli is coming in September, and it is going to be a fragrance based around patchouli, a counterpart to Black Orchid. The notes include dark, smoky patchouli, peony, bergamot, jasmine, rose, coriander, ambrette seeds. Italian Cypress and Arabian Wood will be the new fragrances in the Private Blend Collection. They will commemorate the opening of Tom Ford boutiques in Milan and Kuwait.

NEW: Prada Infusion for Men--a masculine counterpart to Infusion d'Iris. Features notes of neroli, iris pallida, vetiver, cedarwood, incense and benzoin. Sounds simply wonderful!

NEW: Lancome Magnifique --Lancôme Magnifique is an olfactive interpretation of the color red. The fragrance, a spicy woody floral, was created by Firmenich perfumers Olivier Cresp and Jacques Cavallier. As WWD reported , "'The challenge was to work on wood [notes]," said Cresp, explaining the women's fragrance market has few woody juices. While he and Cavalllier were in India they came upon nagarmota, a plant giving iff a woody odor. They liked it so much, they opted to use nagarmota essential oil in Magnifique." Other notes include saffron essence, cumin, Bulgarian rose essence, Mai de Grasse rose absolute, jasmine, Australian sandalwood essence and a vetiver note. Will be introduced in August in the US and in September worldwide.

Carla Fracci Odette is supposed to be launched in Italy this month. Odette, a reference to the classical ballet Swan Lake, used to be one of my favorite parts when I was still dancing, hence, my sentimental affection. The fragrance contains notes of lemon, sea breeze accord, apple, melon, pineapple, freesia, jasmine, cedarwood, amber and musk. I am not expecting a revolution, but hey, one can hope against hope, right?

Cartier Roadster is coming to US stores sometime this fall. It is created by the talented Mathilde Laurent, who is Cartier’s in-house perfumer. Cartier fragrances are invariably well-constructed, therefore I look forward to this new take on the aromatic masculine trend. It includes notes of mint, citrus, vetiver, patchouli, labdanum, cashmere wood and vanilla.

Comme des Garçon has new launches with Daphne Guinness (fashion icon and muse), Stephen Jones (London milliner) and purportedly some other fashion figures. I am almost certain that we will not see pink fruity florals. At least, I hope we will not…

David Yurman perfume interests me not only because it was developed by Harry Fremont of Firmenich, a perfumer whose work I very much enjoy, but also because it is slated as a new floral chypre, a genre that is among my favorites. It includes notes of mandarin, blackcurrant buds, leaves and petals, peony, water lily, rose otto, patchouli, warm woods and musk.

Estée Lauder Sensuous is being released in July. As Karyn Khoury, the creative director of Estée Lauder, was quoted in WWD, "We wanted to reinvent woods for women. The concept was to create a scent that evoked a molten river of woods." It certainly sounds absolutely enticing to me. The fragrance was developed as a collaboration between Khoury and Annie Buzantian of Firmenich. It includes top notes of ghost lily accord, magnolia, and jasmine petals; a heart of molten woods and amber; and a drydown of sandalwood, black pepper, juicy mandarin pulp and honey.

Grès Collection: Hommage à Marlene Dietrich sounds like it could be fascinating, a fragrance trio paying tribute to the Hollywood star of its Golden Age. My Dream is a classical floral perfume; My Life is a chypre; My Passion is a floral oriental.

Guerlain – whatever next perfume Thierry Wasser, the new in-house perfumer, is going to create. I cannot think of better news for 2008 than this announcement.

Gwen Stefani Harajuku Lovers is a collection of five fragrances called Love , Music , Angel , Baby , and G . I am mostly interested in them, because the bottles are just adorable.

John Galliano will launch a fragrance under his label this fall, and as WWD reports, it will “capture Galliano's DNA in scent form.” Galliano is a fashion renegade, therefore I have high hopes for this fragrance.

•On a related note, other fashion designers are coming out with fragrances this fall according to WWD. Mentions have been made of Monique Lhuillier , Alberta Ferretti , and Martin Margiela having projects in the works. I will take fashion designer fragrances over those of celebrities, if only because the celebrity launches tend to target the same audience and produce similar offerings as a result.

Eau de Liane is a new fragrance by Bertrand Duchaufour, who has recently been hired as the in-house perfumer by L’Artisan Parfumeur. It was inspired by his travels in Panama.

Lolita Lempicka Coral Flower , a flanker to L de Lolita Lempicka was created by Maurice Roucel. I love his work, and I like L, therefore I am looking forward to smelling Coral Flower. If anything, I bet that the packaging will be gorgeous.

Swarowski perfume is reported to be in the works. As Osmoz reports, “They have just signed an exclusive beauty license agreement with Thierry Mugler Parfums (Clarins Group). With a launch date scheduled for 2010, ‘Swarovski Beauty’ will include perfume, make-up and a collection of beauty accessories.”

Tabu – now that the house of Dana is under new ownership, I am looking forward to seeing new, and I hope, exciting launches from it.

The Different Company Sublime Balkys is a fragrance composed by Celine Ellena and is to launch this summer. It is a chypre including notes of bergamot, patchouli (Ellena used the essential oil and as well as fractionated oil, which is supposed to highlight the more effervescent facet of patchouli), rose, violet leaf, lilac, vetiver. A fruity accent is provided by blackberries and blueberries.

•Also, Kenzo , Fendi , Guerlain and Prada are expecting new masculine launches, while Tom Ford , Van Cleef & Arpels and Lancôme are preparing new feminine releases. WWD and Cosmetic World made only the briefest of mentions, therefore I do not have any other details. However, these are brands I admire, therefore I am curious.

Information sources: WWD, Cosmetic World, Cosmetic News, Osmoz.  Please check Now Smell This for more information on new launches this year (Robin has a section on new perfumes which she updates on daily basis.)

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