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June 16, 2008

Frederic Malle Angeliques Sous la Pluie : Perfume Review


Angéliques Sous la Pluie is a sleeper of the Frédéric Malle collection. Next to the opulent blossoms of Carnal Flower, the delicious darkness of Vetiver Extraordinaire or the smoldering beauty of Noir Epices, its ethereal presence can be perceived as somewhat muted. However, spray it on your skin first thing in the morning and inhale… Effervescent, luminous, pleasantly dry, Angéliques Sous la Pluie is like a sip of champagne. Its simplicity and elegance are so masterfully expressed that it manages to achieve that elusive quality of subtle signature—of memorable presence and delicate aura. …

Created by Jean-Claude Ellena, the master of olfactory haiku, Angéliques Sous la Pluie is Ellena at his most poetic. The skeleton of the fragrance combines dry ambery woods with the brilliant radiance of hedione and the winy violets of ionones. In fact, Angéliques Sous la Pluie is reminiscent of other Ellena creations—most notably, Bvlgari Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert in structure. However, once again Ellena’s ability to extend the theme with well-chosen embellishments impresses. Here, the dryness of woods is contrasted with the faceted top note of pepper and the warm base of soft, green musk. As Angéliques Sous la Pluie develops, it conveys a scent of foggy mornings, of rainy days and of early summer.

Technical beauty aside, I find Angéliques Sous la Pluie to be very compelling stylistically. I love that it does not delve into any of the expected feminine tricks, nor does it take too big of a step into the obvious masculine direction. It is refined without being contrived. Countering the impulse to wear grand entrance fragrances for an evening (Guerlain L’Heure Bleue, Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan, Carnal Flower,) I started gravitating towards Angéliques Sous la Pluie. What can I say in conclusion? If you have ever worn Dior Eau Sauvage and felt like you were the embodiment of effortless elegance, then Angéliques Sous la Pluie will be a perfect choice for you. I do not think that I can give a higher compliment to a fragrance.

Angéliques Sous la Pluie includes notes of angelica, coriander, pink pepper, and cedar. Available directly from Frédéric Malle Editions de Parfums and Barneys NY.



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