In sartorial terms, an effervescent citrus cologne is as versatile and timeless as a tailored suit or a little black dress. It is immediately appealing and effortlessly chic, while still having a striking presence. Yet, eventually all little black dresses start to look similar, and all colognes exhibit that familiar fresh burst followed by floral sweetness or woody dryness. As one knows all too well, familiarity breeds contempt. In this light, I have put the newest cologne offering, Christian Dior Escale à Portofino, to the test….
In addition to El Attarine, Serge Lutens will issue Serge Noire in July 2008, a fragrance for the export collection. Serge Noire. Serge is a type of twill fabric (in fact, French word serge is derived from Latin serica, itself from Greek σηρικος (serikos), meaning "silken",) the finest variety of which was used for delicate linings, while the rougher weave was used for military uniforms.
The press release describes the idea behind Serge Noire in these poetic terms: "The ether of ashes... A phoenix, the mythical bird of legend burns at the height of its splendour before emerging triumphant, reborn from the ashes in a choreography of flame, conjuring the shapes of yesterday in a dance of ashes. The swirls of oriental grey enrich the twilight with depth and intensity while windswept memories hint at the beauty of transformation. An ode to everlasting beauty under cover of night's rich plumage."
The fans of Serge Lutens will be excited to hear the news that two new fragrances are about to join the collection: El Attarine and Serge Noire. The exclusive range will see the debut of El Attarine Eau de Parfum, which is described in the following manner in the press release:
"In Arab countries, 'attarin' means sweet-smelling, and refers to everything within the realm of the 'atar': fragrance, heart, flavour and essence.
There is no distinction between the olfactory and the gustatory, until the moment when you decide whether to taste or smell. ...
Angéliques Sous la Pluie is a sleeper of the Frédéric Malle collection. Next to the opulent blossoms of Carnal Flower, the delicious darkness of Vetiver Extraordinaire or the smoldering beauty of Noir Epices, its ethereal presence can be perceived as somewhat muted. However, spray it on your skin first thing in the morning and inhale… Effervescent, luminous, pleasantly dry, Angéliques Sous la Pluie is like a sip of champagne. Its simplicity and elegance are so masterfully expressed that it manages to achieve that elusive quality of subtle signature—of memorable presence and delicate aura. …
Last night, at the Grand Palais in Paris , Lancôme presented Magnifique, its newest fragrance which olfactively interprets the color red. Anne Hathaway is Lancôme's newest ambassador, who will be featured in the advertising campaign. The fragrance, a spicy woody floral, was created by Firmenich perfumers Olivier Cresp and Jacques Cavallier. As WWD reported this morning, "'The challenge was to work on wood [notes]," said Cresp, explaining the women's fragrance market has few woody juices. While he and Cavalllier were in India they came upon nagarmota, a plant giving iff a woody odor. They liked it so much, they opted to use nagarmota essential oil in Magnifique." Other notes include saffron essence, cumin, Bulgarian rose essence, Mai de Grasse rose absolute, jasmine, Australian sandalwood essence and a vetiver note.
Magnifique will launch in August in the US (where it will be exclusive to Bloomingdale's at first) and in September elsewhere. India, roses, red... I am adding this launch to the list of new fragrances to anticipate!