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February 10, 2011

Annick Goutal Le Mimosa : Fragrance Review

Le mimosa

Rated 4.5 out of 5.0

Star rating: 5 stars--outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars--very good, 3 stars--adequate, 2 stars--disappointing, 1 star--poor.

To me few scents evoke spring more than the honey and cucumber fragrance of mimosa. Even before the snow melted on the streets of Kiev, sidewalk vendors would suddenly appear with large baskets of fluffy mimosa branches wrapped in wet newspaper. I could never resist the sunny yellow color nor the warm, sweet fragrance, and I happily traded my school lunch allowance for a smell of spring. Today I would gladly exchange the most precious perfume in my collection for the utter joy of burying my face in a soft cloud of fragrant mimosa orbs, staining my fingers with indelible newspaper ink and feeling my pulse quicken at the thought of spring being near. Therefore, I simply could not wait for Annick Goutal Le Mimosa to arrive on our shores, even if the real mimosa rarely does. Launched this month as a part of the soliflores collection, Néroli, Des Lys, La Violette, Le Muguet and Le Chèvrefeuille, Le Mimosa is Camille Goutal and Isabelle Doyen's ode to spring.

While Le Mimosa is advertised as a soliflore, it is hardly a single note fragrance. As I wear it, I find that Le Mimosa is above all a play on a mimosa theme, rather than a literal rendition like L'Artisan Mimosa Pour Moi. While mimosa forms the heart of the main accord, its presence is blended with fresh fruity and transparent floral notes. The effervescence of the composition is introduced by the bright, crisp bergamot, while a creamy, yet sheer peach gives a bright sweetness. Honeyed and warm, with green cucumber and anise notes, mimosa nevertheless remains veiled. As the composition dries down, the tender, delicately powdery character of mimosa intensifies, amplified by the earthiness of violet-iris and the sweetness of vanilla.

I enjoy Le Mimosa, but I am not captivated by it as I was by Songes, nor does it uplift me the way Néroli does. My first impression of Le Mimosa was Petite Chérie, a sweet, musky peach and rose composition created by Annick Goutal in 1998 for her daughter Camille. Like Petite Chérie, Le Mimosa has strong peach and musk notes and has an innocent comeliness about it. As a joyful floral composition, Le Mimosa is a lovely choice and its touching, delicate beauty has a romantic quality that I notice in many Annick Goutal fragrances. While I like the unusual and memorable interpretation of the classical flower, Le Mimosa, like Petite Chérie, feels too innocent and too lighthearted for me. Or perhaps, I simply need the musty note of wet Pravda for my olfactory portait of spring...

Annick Goutal Le Mimosa includes notes of bergamot, anise, mimosa, iris, sandalwood, musk, peach. It officially launches on March 1st, but there are already testers at Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus Annick Goutal counters. For now, it is intended as a limited edition.

Sample: my own acquisition

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