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October 21, 2011

Paris Perfume Shopping : Directory of Fragrance, Food, Fashion and More


Paris and perfume… These words are synonymous for most perfume lovers, and shortly after creating Bois de Jasmin in 2005, one of my first long articles was devoted to perfume shopping in Paris. Part I and Part II offered a walking tour of the capital’s best fragrant treasures. Since then, I have been meaning to update these posts with a directory of Paris fragrant destinations, based on my visits and new discoveries. This directory will include various perfume shopping destinations as well as my other favorite addresses.

The directory is frequently updated, therefore please check back periodically to see new additions, changes and updates. L indicates Left Bank, and R—Right Bank. If you have your own favorite places in Paris, whether perfume, food, fashion or art related, please do not hesitate to share. Of course, if you visit any of these places and have your own experiences (and updates!), please comment!

Abdul Samad Al Qurashi (R)
45 avenue George V, 8th arr
Tel: +33 (0)1 47 23 31 94

Middle Eastern style perfume oils, interesting oud blends and rose attars.

Amin Kader (R)
1 rue de la Paix, 2nd arr
2 rue Guisarde, 6th arr
Tel: + 33 (0)1 42 61 33 25

Amin Kader, a fashion designer, has transformed the fashion boutique into a gorgeous Renaissance fantasy full of frescoes and beautiful architectural details. It carries a full line of Santa Maria Novella products.

Annick Goutal
12 Place Saint-Sulpice , 6th arr (L)
Tel : +33 (0)1 46 33 03 15

3 Bis Rue Rosiers, 4th arr (R)
Tel: + 33 (0)1 48 87 80 13

14 rue de Castiglione, 1st arr (R)
Tel : +33 (0)1 42 60 52 82

Although Annick Goutal fragrances are easy enough to find at department stores in Paris, the freestanding boutiques are charming. You can also find there the full collection of excellent Annick Goutal candles as well as book a rose-scented spa treatment at the Annick Goutal Beauty Institute. After visiting Annick Goutal, walk over to the Pierre Hermé patisserie shop to buy some of the best pastries in Paris as well as delicious Christine Ferber jams.

NB: Also see Merci listing for Annick Goutal fragrances sold at discount.

Arabian Oud (R)
63 Avenue Champs Elysées, 8th arr
Tel: +33 (0)1 43 59 59 59

Eastern Arabic style perfume oils, oud blends and floral attars

Au Nom de la Rose (R)
51 rue Cler, 7th arr
Tel: +33 (0)1 44 18 98 01

A rose scented olfactory experience! A florist boutique devoted to everything rose scented--soap, candy, candles, jams, even rose honey, and of course, fresh flowers. The smallest purchase is lovingly decorated with fresh roses and rose petals. The market on rue Cler is one of my favorites in Paris.

Le Bon Marché (L)
24 rue de Sèvres, 7th arr
Tel: + 33 (0)1 44 39 80 00

Le Bon Marché may not have the gloss and glamor of les grands magasins on the Right Bank (Galeries Lafayette and Printemps,) but it has a great and well-edited selection in pretty much every category. Caron has a whole area in the lingerie department, complete with powder puffs and perfume fountains. Le Bon Marché is also less crowded than the other big stores (except during the semiannual sales in January and June.) For a budget conscious shopper, there are also many great choices both in the store itself and in the boutiques nearby. Finally, do not miss its fantastic food emporium, La Grande Épicerie de Paris!

Cadolle (R)
4 rue Cambon, 1er
Tel: + 33 (0)1 42 60 94 22

255 rue Saint-Honoré, 1st arr (by appointment only)
Tel: + 33 (0)1 42 60 94 94

Herminie Cadolle invented the brassiere in 1889 by cutting the corset in two. Today, Cadolle still creates some of the most comfortable and beautiful lingerie in Paris. While the prices are as luxurious as the pieces themselves, if you are visiting Chanel across the street, Cadolle is worth a look.

Caron (R)
90 Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 1st arr
34 Avenue Montaigne, 8th arr
Tel: + 33 (0)1 47 23 40 82

Famous urn fragrances, beauty and makeup preparations, gorgeous vanity table accessories and swan down puffs in an array of bright shades.

Chanel (R)
31 rue Cambon, 1st arr
42 avenue Montaigne , 9th arr
Tel: + 33 (0)1 44 50 66 00

Exclusive fragrances, a full line of scented and cosmetic products. I love rue the Cambon location for the history surrounding it. Knowing that Coco Chanel worked only a couple of floors above adds something special to the place for me. Every time I have made a purchase at the boutique, whether a bottle of perfume or a lipstick, it was beautifully packaged and embellished with Coco’s signature flower, white camellia.

Cire Trudon (L)
78 rue de Seine, 6th arr
Tel: +33 (0)1 43 26 46 50

A great line of candles and scented home products with unique scents such as the polished wooden floors of Versailles or Indian flower markets.

Colette (R)
213 rue Saint-Honoré, 1st arr
Tel: + 33 (0) 1 55 35 33 90

Not to be missed! A concept store that carries some of the most avant-garde fashions as well as interesting and hard-to-find perfume lines (Mark Buxton, Solange Azagury-Partridge, Le Labo, Balmain, ByRedo, Comme des Garçons, Costes, Escentual Molecules, Indult, Juliette Has a Gun, Karl Lagerfield, Six Scents, among many others.)

Comme des Garçons (R)
23 place du Marché Saint-Honoré, 1st arr
Tel: + 33 (0)1 47 03 15 03

The Comme des Garçons Perfume Shop is devoted to perfumes, scented candles, and incense. The brilliant white design with pink-tinted lighting alone is worth a visit.

Dior (R)
30 avenue Montaigne, 8th arr
Tel: + 33 (0) 1 40 73 73 73

Dior classics such as Eau Fraîche, Diorling, Diorama and Dioressence can be found here as well as the exclusive collections.

Diptyque (L )
34 boulevard Saint-Germain, 5th arr
Tel: + 33 (0)1 01 43 26 77 44

Fragrances, home scents, body products. Try their Philosykos shower gel that also doubles as a nice shampoo.

Divine (R)
3 rue Scribe, 9th arr
Tel: + 33 (0)1 40 06 03 14

A lovely boutique devoted to everything Divine, where the staff is generous with samples. You can also get your bottles refilled. Also, chocolatier Pierre Marcolini is next door.

État Libre d’Orange (R)
69 rue des Archives, 3rd arr
Tel: +33 (0)1 42 78 30 09

I love Marais, a neighborhood that is home to État Libre d’Orange and its boutique. As such, 69 rue des Archives is often on my itinerary. Excellent niche perfumery at very reasonable prices.

Esteban (R)
20 rue des Francs-Bourgeois, 3rd arr
Tel: +33 (0)1 40 27 04 16

Incense, home fragrances, perfumes. The store is very close to Annick Goutal as well as the Stéphanie de Saint-Aignan boutiques.

Fauchon (R)
26 Place de la Madeleine, 8th arr
Tel: + 33 (0)1 70 39 38 00

The whole area around Place de la Madeleine is filled with some of the best gourmet boutiques, but Fauchon is where I always stop for teas, jams and chocolates.

Francis Kurkdjian (R)
5, rue d'Alger, 1er
Tel: + 33 (0)1 42 60 07 07

The full line of Maison Francis Kurkdjian. Personal fragrance services are also available.

Frédéric Malle
21 rue du Mont-Thabor 75001 (R)
37 rue de Grenelle 75007 (L)
Tel: + 33 (0)1 42 22 76 40

I prefer Frédéric Malle’s boutique on rue de Grenelle, mostly because I love shoes only slightly less than I love perfume, and rue de Grenelle is renowned for its shoe boutiques. Simply walking down this scenic street is a delight. Both stores have the full line of fragrances, home scents and body products, including their highly fragrant soap.

Galeries Lafayette and Le Printemps (R)
40 Boulevard Haussmann, 9th arr
Tel: + 33 (0)1 42 82 34 56

64 Boulevard Haussmann, 9th arr
Tel: + 33 (0)1 42 82 50 00

Those who are pressed for time should visit these famous department stores. Niche perfumery is well represented there. Le Printemps de la Beauté is one of my favorite beauty spots. Just beware that both stores can get very crowded, especially during the height of the tourist season. Lafayette Gourmet is a must stop, whether to have a nice lunch or to stock up on delicious gourmand fare. Be sure to ask at your hotel if they have a discount card for either Galeries Lafayette and Le Printemps.

68, avenue de Champs-Élysées, 8th arr (R)
Tel: + 33 (0)1 45 62 52 57

35 Rue Tronchet (R)
Tel: + 33 (0)1 47 42 53 23

29 Rue Sèvres (L)
Tel: + 33 (0)1 42 22 46 60

Guerlain has several locations in Paris, of which 68, avenue de Champs-Élysées is the most famous. It is the only place where all of the Guerlain extraits de parfum can be sampled, including the ethereally beautiful Chant d'Arômes. It is also possible to smell (although not to purchase) some of the old Guerlain fragrances. I love Kadine (1911,) an ambery floral fragrance. Cachet Juane (1937) is a delicious blend of spicy woods accented with orange. Finally, Ode (1955) is a honeyed floral bouquet reminiscent of Jean Patou Joy. Also, be sure to check out the exquisite home fragrance line (my favorite scent Hiver en Russie is a sweet incense and amber blend.) For a full description of the boutique, please see my Guerlain boutique review.

JAR Parfums (R)
24 rue de Castiglione, 1st arr
Tel: + 33 (0)1 40 20 47 20

The purple hued boutique where you can smell the famous (and extremely expensive) fragrances. Annick Goutal is next door.

Jean Patou (R)
5, rue de Castiglione, 1st arr
Tel + 33 (0)1 42 92 07 22

Across the street from Annick Goutal and JAR Parfums, there is a mod styled Jean Patou boutique. The selection is limited to currently produced fragrances, although you can also buy their parfum versions. If you have time, I recommend visiting their Perfume Bar (a story of my experience.) Do check visiting hours before you visit, since they are currently erratic.

Jo Malone (R)
326 rue Saint-Honoré, 1st arr
Tel: + 33 (0)1 47 03 01 66

An elegant cream and black boutique devoted to the full range of Jo Malone products.

Hermès (R)
24 Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 1st arr
Tel: + 33 (0)1 40 17 47 17

Exclusive collections, parfum versions of Hermès classics. A beautiful boutique that has fantastic window designs that change with seasons.

IUNX (store near entrance to Hotel Costes) (R)
239 rue saint-Honoré, 1st arr
Tel: + 33 (0)1 42 44 50 25

A tiny store near the entrance to Hotel Costes is the only place where you can find IUNX products designed by perfumer Olivia Giacobetti. It also sells Costes fragrances and home scents. Please read Gaia’s helpful review.

Ladurée (R)
16 rue Royale, 8th arr
Tel: + 33 (0)1 42 60 21 79

21 rue Bonaparte, 6th arrbr> Tel: + 33 (0)1 44 07 64 87

62, boulevard Haussmann, 9th arr
Tel: + 33 (0)1 42 82 40 10

75 avenue des Champs-Élysées, 8th arr
Tel: + 33 (0)1 40 75 08 75

Famous macarons in a wide range of colors and flavors, pastries, cakes and more. I recommend making a reservation for breakfast at their Champs-Élysées location (specify that you want to sit upstairs.) Order hot chocolate and enjoy it while looking out of the window and absorbing the Parisian scene below. Body products and candles are available as well.

Lanvin (R)
22 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré, 8th arr
Tel: + 33 (0)1 44 71 33 33

A full collection of Lanvin fragrances can be found at this pretty blue toned boutique.

L’Artisan Parfumeur
24 boulevard Raspail, 7th arr (L)
Tel: + 33 (0)1 42 22 23 32

2 rue Vignon, 9th arr (R)
Tel: + 33 (0)1 42 66 32 66

2 rue de l'Amiral de Coligny, 1st arr (R)
Tel: + 33 (0)1 44 88 27 50

34 rue des Francs Bourgeois, 3rd arr (R)
Tel: + 33 (0)1 42 77 80 28

32 rue du Bourg Tibourg, 4th arr (R)
Tel: + 33 (0)1 48 04 55 66

L’Artisan fragrances can also be found at Le Bon Marché, Franck et Fils, Galeries Lafayette Haussmann and Le Printemps in Paris.

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier (R)
5, rue des Capucines, 1st arr
Tel: +33 (0)1 42 96 35 13

MPG fragrances can be discovered at this elegant boutique.

Memo (L)

Created by Clara Molloy, MEMO fragrances capture her childhood memories and favorite travel destinations. The boutique offers the full line, including her excellent 22 Perfumers book (available in English.) Sold at Le Bon Marché and Galeries Lafayette.

Merci (R)
111 boulevard Beaumarchais, 3rd arr
Tel: + 33 (0)1 42 77 00 33

I love Merci! It is a charming multi-brand, multi-concept store: a flower shop, used book store and café. It is owned by the founders of Bonpoint, a children’s clothing shop, and they sell clothing, fabric and perfume. Now, if you love Annick Goutal fragrances, then it is a place to visit, particularly since it was founded by Annick’s sister Marie-France Cohen. As Denyse shared*, “Passion, L’Eau du Sud, L’Heure Exquise, L’Eau de Camille and L’Eau de Charlotte are sold in plain lab bottles: 22 € for 25ml, 39€ for 50ml, 59€ for 100ml and 119€ for 200ml. If you bring in your own bottle to fill, it’s even cheaper. The store also offers exclusive re-editions of four discontinued Goutal candles: Dans les Foins (hay), Mes Nuits d’été (fig tree), Chine Impériale (smoky tea) and Corsé (spicy), at 29€ for a 175-gram candle in a glass, and 19€ for a refill.” Also, I wanted to mention that Merci is also a not-for-profit operation, with all of its proceeds directed to children’s charities.

*Denyse’s posts on shopping in Paris are also a recommended read: Part 1 and Part 2.

Mona (L)
17 rue Bonaparte, 6th arr.
Tel: + 33 (0)1 44 07 07 27

Not so much a perfume destination as a great multi-brand fashion store (their selection of shoes is amazing.)

Montale (R)
26 place Vendôme, 1st arr
Tel: + 33 (0)1 42 96 97 44

A dizzying range of oud fragrances as well as other Montale specialties. The staff is friendly and generous with samples.

Les Néréïdes
23 rue du Four, 6th arr (L)
Tel: + 33 (0)1 43263355

5 rue du Bourg l’Abbé, 3rd arr (R)
Tel: +33 (0)1 80 50 51 11

Beautiful jewelry and perfumes.

Nina Ricci (R)
39 avenue Montaigne, 8th arr
Tel: +33 (0)1 40 88 64 42

I do not know how many times I have walked past the Nina Ricci boutique before I finally stopped by and discovered that it sells the full line of Ricci classics (including the parfum versions) as well as Coeur-Joie, an exhilarating floral composition created by Germaine Cellier of Robert Piguet Fracas fame.

Réminiscence (L)
22 rue du Four, 6th arr
Tel: + 33 (0)1 40 51 83 50

Patchouli in various guises--the original Reminiscence Patchouli was launched in 1970, while today it also exists in a dark, richer form, Patchouli Elixir.

Parfums de Nicolaï
69, avenue Raymond Poincaré, 16th arr (R)
Tel: +33 (0)1 47 55 90 44

28, rue de Richelieu, 1st arr (R)
Tel: +33 (0)1 44 55 02 02

80, rue de Grenelle, 7th arr (L)
Tel: +33 (0)1 45 44 59 59

45, rue des Archives, 3rd arr (R)
Tel: +33 (0)1 48 87 05 19

24, bis boulevard de Courcelles, 17th arr (R)
Tel : +33 (0)1 42 67 86 27

My favorite location is 80, rue de Grenelle, mostly because I love the neighborhood and often stay nearby. The boutique offers a full line of Nicolaï fragrances, bath products and home scents.

Les Parfums de Rosine (R)
105 Galerie de Valois, 1st arr
Tel: + 33 (0)1 42 60 11 51

After visiting Serge Lutens, walk to the end of the gallery to find the tiny, but charming Les Parfums de Rosine boutique. The service is very friendly and helpful.

Pierre Hermé (L)
72 rue Bonaparte, 6th arr
Tel: + 33 (0)1 43 54 47 77

Pierre Hermé’s tiny freestanding boutique is worth a visit for some of the most delicious pastries and macarons in Paris. Often called The Picasso of Pastry, Hermé’s flavor combinations are unusual and surprising : olive oil and vanilla, saffron and apricot, chestnut and coffee, etc. I also love Christine Ferber’s jams, which can be found at his boutique (Ferber, like Hermé, comes from Alsace.) Her blackcurrant-violet jelly, apricot, cherry and raspberry-rose jams are fantastic. Lafayette Gourmet at Galeries Lafayette is another place to find her products.

Penhaligon’s (R)
209 rue Saint-Honoré , 1st arr
Tel: +33 (0)1 49 26 91 66

A nicely decorated boutique right next door to Chantal Thomass, a maker of some of the most exquisite lingerie.

Santa Maria Novella (see Amin Kader above)

Sens Unique (R)
13 rue du Roi de Sicile, 4th arr
Tel: + 33  (0)1 71 50 30 09

This relatively new multi-brand boutique offers a fantastic selection of numerous  niche lines: Parfums MDCI, by Kilian, Amouage, État Libre d’Orange, Honoré des Prés, Parfumerie Générale, Huitième Art, Phaedon and many others.

Sephora (R)
70 Avenue des Champs Elysées, 8th arr
Tel: + 33 (0)1 53 93 22 50

A good selection of various beauty and perfume lines, including Serge Lutens. Beware, it can be quite crowded!

Serge Lutens / Les Salons du Palais Royal (R)
Jardin du Palais Royal
142, rue de Valois, 1er
Tel: + 33 (0)1 49 27 09 09

Even if I do not need anything from Serge Lutens, I still never fail to visit the boutique. For one thing, Jardin du Palais Royal is one of my favorite places in Paris. The boutique itself is beautiful and elegant. It is best to ask the staff to help you test fragrances, rather than reach for the bottles yourself; however, this is often the rule in most Paris boutiques.

Sonia Rykiel (L)
194 boulevard Saint-Germain, 6th arr
Tel. +33 (0)1 49 54 60 60

Perfumes, incense, candles by Sonia Rykiel.

Stéphanie de Saint-Aignan (R)
26 rue de Poitou, 3rd arr
Tel: +33 (0)1 42 24 07 99

An inviting, small boutique devoted to Stéphanie de Saint-Aignan. Stéphanie herself is often there.

The Different Company (R)
10 rue Ferdinand Duval, 4th arr
Tel: + 33 (0)1 42 78 19 34

Fragrances by Jean-Claude Ellena and his daughter Celine Ellena.

Photography by VeraKL



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