8th Annual Basenotes Awards Winners

It is that time of the year again! Basenotes has announced the winners of 8th Annual Basenotes Awards. The Basenotes visitors have voted to select their favorites, and you can see the results by following the link. Special congratulations to Now Smell This, the winner of Gold award in Best Blogs category and Perfume Posse in Silver. A big thank you to all of you who voted for Bois de Jasmin (Bronze) despite my long absence from these pages. I cannot express how much your support means to me. Also, a special thank you to Grant Osborne of Basenotes whose hard work and dedication are simply admirable.

Back from Faraway Lands

Dear readers, I am back from my unexpectedly extended trip, and while the jet lag is keeping me up, I am using the time to write and fill the pages of Bois de Jasmin once again. Please come back next week to read about exploring the frankincense trails of the Arabian Peninsula, the Indian wedding scents and the spice markets of Mumbai.

Tomorrow: all about love and fragrance.

Photo: Dried chili lane and a proud vendor in Thane, India. Copyright Bois de Jasmin.

Happy 2008!

Dear readers of Bois de Jasmin,

I would like to wish you a Happy New Year and I hope that this year will be joyous and successful in all of your endeavors. Above all, I thank you for your constant support and your email letters (I apologize if I am not able to reply to all of them individually). The thoughts you have shared with me about perfume and other matters on these pages are very precious. Thank you once again!

Victoria

Birthday Wishes

The year came and went, almost stealthily, and once again I am celebrating not just my birthday, but also Bois de Jasmin being two and a half years old, which in my mind is a far more important occasion. It has been a source of many great discoveries for me, about perfumery, about others and about myself. I cannot even enumerate many wonderful encounters and friendships that materialized thanks to it. The thoughts that you, my dear readers, chose to share are very precious, and I look forward to them every day.

As for making wishes, I have a few. One of them is to resume my writing on these pages with more frequency and to share my constant discoveries with you!

Photo from Firefly Forest.

What is Next...

I do not like to leave these pages bare for too long, but the past month has been quite a busy one, especially with my moving--and I can tell you that packing and transporting over 500 perfume bottles is a challenging task. Adding to my frustration was the temporary lack of internet access in my new home (thanks to the incompetent customer service at Verizon), which certainly made maintaining a website next to impossible. However, things are on the mend, and I should return soon with the review of Paul Poiret's Le Fruit Défendu (Parfums de Rosine) as well as an article on the Osmothèque, a place where every perfume lover must make a visit.

Happy Mother's Day!

When I think of my mother, I immediately think of Diorissimo. My first memory of her is associated with the crystalline and radiant scent of this amazing perfume. As I once wrote about these early childhood memories, "She worked at the chemical engineering research institute, which was an organization with a very vague purpose. Or perhaps, it is just my confused memory, because what I recall of the institute had little to do with either chemistry or engineering. Yet, imagining my glamorous mother trailing a scent of Edmond Roudnitska’s legendary creation down the halls of that dingy grey building never fails to amuse me. She would drop me off at the pre-school and then leave, yet the scent of her would remain."

It has been years since my mother wore Diorissimo. When I asked her about it one day as she applied her current favourite Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist, my mother smiled and said, "Oh, it reminds me too much of old times, which is both good and bad. One does not remain the same as years go by, so why should one be loyal to the same perfume?" Now, I wear Diorissimo, and it is my fragrance of choice today.

Ethical Blogging

Perfume blogging is a fairly small area inside the blogosphere, which is why it is not surprising that the questions of ethics are beginning to surface only now. Nevertheless, having returned to Bois de Jasmin after a brief hiatus, I was somewhat taken aback when I heard that one of the fragrance bloggers has been offered money to write positive review, and while she did not accept the payment, she assumed that others did.  I personally have never heard of or encountered such a tactic in my blogging practice, although, of course, it does not mean that it does not exist. Much has been said about this on Now Smell This, Perfume-Smellin' Things, Aromascope and Perfume Posse. Because I value and trust my readers and hope for the same in return, I shall recap my policy: Bois de Jasmin does not have any commercial relationships with any perfume brand, manufacturer, retail or e-tail venue. I created the website as an independent outlet of expression, hence my strict non-commercial involvement policy (despite the fact that I receive advertising offers on weekly basis). Out of the fragrances reviews here, less than 5% were based on the samples (if full bottles are sent, I never keep them for personal use) received from the manufacturer, and even these 5% received varying reviews, both positive and negative. This is the policy I maintain as an editor. Please see the other blogs for more thoughts on this topic.

As bloggers, we must be very sensitive about the ethical aspects of our work as what we do has important consequences. When one has an ability to influence decisions--however, small they may be--one must be especially vigilant about the question of ethics. After all, integrity is the greatest asset one can have.

Adding on Friday, May 11th: As an afterthought, I must add that although the original blogger in question has stirred the pot a bit, I, for one, am glad that this issue was brought up.  There is hardly any discussion of the ethical issues in the perfume blogging community, and it is the time we gave it more thought.

Web Errands

I realize that some of you have not been able to access Bois de Jasmin pages over the past couple of days. I am currently undertaking an upgrade which will allow for the easier navigation for you and the more effortless platform maintenance for me. Thank you for your patience! Meanwhile, please feel free to browse the newly updated Index of Reviews (searchable by perfumer names, notes and the types of reviews).

Moreover, one of the most frequent inquiries I receive is about subscription. For your convenience, I offer several options, which are outlined on my Subscription Page. My own preferences for reading various online publications is either via Bloglines or Feedburner.

John Singer Sargent (1856-1925), Fumée d’ambre gris (Ambergris Smoke), oil on canvas, 1880, Sterling and France Clark Art Institute, Williamstown, Massachusetts. From The City Review.

Mini Poll : What Would You Like To Read

Being a judge for the FiFi Awards this year, I am spending some time attending to these duties, hence, another short delay till Friday, when Michelle Krell Kydd will regale us with yet another delicious story. While we wait, I would like to find out from you what you would have liked to read on Monday: 

a review of something vintage and long vanished (from Guerlain, Caron, Dior, Houbigant, or perhaps Jean Patou), of one of my Osmothèque discoveries;

a new release (another Parfums MDCI or Chanel Les Exclusifs review, perhaps);

a perfume book review;

or perhaps about an overview of the springtime scents.

Of course, other topics are more than welcome!

Short Hiatus

The week has started out on a hectic note, and between travel and work, it promises to remain this way. I am taking a break from Bois de Jasmin from a couple of days in order to complete some interviews. I will be back in a couple of days with reviews of Parfums MDCI and Santa Maria Novella Angels of Florence as well as some other interesting features.

Comments : Update

"Your blog blocked me as a comment spammer. What do I do?"

Due to the fact that Typepad as a whole was under the massive spam attack recently, the comments now are more strictly regulated.

As a result, you might be asked to verify your comment by entering a string of letters and numbers. If you are trying to comment on any Typepad blog, and Typepad tells you that yours is a spam comment, scroll down the page and enter the aforementioned string of letters and numbers.

If you have further problems, please contact Typepad tech support.

Merry Christmas, Joyeux Noël!

I would like to wish everyone happy holidays! I hope that 2007 will bring happiness and good fortune into your lives and that all of your dreams will come true. 2006 has been an exciting year for me, and it has been a pleasure sharing my thoughts with you on these pages. I am looking forward to 2007, but in the meantime, please return before the end of the year to read my overview of the most interesting perfume-related discoveries of 2006 (my article on a related topic is going to be published in Perfumer & Flavorist Magazine in January of 2007). My Paris articles will resume in the new year, beginning with the story of my visit to the laboratory of Isabelle Doyen and Camille Goutal.

I hope that everyone's holidays are filled with delicious smells. I am preparing pomegranate pork chops, apple chutney and spicy roasted pumpkin for dinner, with apricot and ginger chocolate cake for dessert. I will be wearing Frédéric Malle Une Rose.

2007 Plans for Flavor Friday Column : Introducing Michelle Krell Kydd

My explorations of the relationship between flavor and fragrance, which I first began two years ago after my trip to India (please see my article Green Mango and Coconut Milk published in July of 2005), have not only received many interesting responses, but have also inspired me to further develop the idea of understanding this fascinating marriage. In 2007, my Friday "Flavour and Fragrance" column will see more articles, such as recipes, interviews with chefs and flavorists as well as overviews of specific flavour materials found both in the kitchen and in fragrance.

And now for a piece of exciting news: Michelle Krell Kydd will be sharing her thoughts on the interplay between flavor and fragrance on the pages of Bois de Jasmin. Having completed her studies in perfumery and fragrance evaluation at Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, Michelle has worked in various capacities in the fragrance industry. Along with chef Bill Yosses and perfumer Christophe Laudamiel, Michelle was one of the organizers of the James Beard Foundation event that linked perfumery and gastronomy. She is also an editorial contributor to Allured Publishing's Perfumer and Flavorist, a publication serving those working in the fragrance and flavour fields. As an independent marketing and communications consultant and publicist, she has also been working with the American Society of Perfumers and the World Perfumery Congress, among others. Her impressive achievements and knowledge aside, I am thrilled to welcome Michelle's contributions; she is passionate about fragrance, not to mention a good piece of chocolate! I am certain that you will find her article as engaging and inspiring as I do.

Photo: Michelle Krell Kydd.

Setting Sail...

Once again I am in the midst of packing. This time I am not taking any perfumes with me, save for some of vintage rarities I have set aside for the Osmotheque. My agenda book is filled with things to do and places to visit. Above all, I am looking forward to spending some time with friends and getting inspiration for all of my 2007 projects. If my internet connection will not fail me, I will post short updates, otherwise you shall hear from me on the 18th of December. I wish everyone a great Monday and I already look forward to sharing any interesting stories and news upon my return!

Painting: Claude Monet, Saint-Lazare Station, 1877; oil on canvas; National Gallery, London. From Webmuseum.

Happy Thanksgiving!

I wanted to wish everyone a great weekend and Happy Thanksgiving to my American readers! I am taking a holiday till Monday, when I will return with a review of The Different Company coffret. Today I am thankful for Hermès Doblis, Annick Goutal Songes and Frédéric Malle Carnal Flower. I plan to wear them all through the Thanksgiving weekend. If there is anything you are particularly thankful for (perfume or non-perfume related), please share!

Picture: Songes ad from Annick Goutal website.

Making a Wish

Another year flew by, and I am celebrating another birthday. On this day last year I made a birthday wish for elusive and rare Jacques Fath Iris Gris. In a wonderful coincidence of events, I came across a bottle a few days later. What should I wish for this year? Can it be Chanel Ivoire, Guerlain Bouquet de Faunes or Rochas Mouche (how can I resist a fragrance created by Edmond Roudnitska and named after Marcel Rochas’s cat)? More importantly, Bois de Jasmin has brought me many wonderful encounters and has allowed a lifelong passion to turn into a fledging career. I only wish that this persists and that I can continue pursuing my perfumery studies and writing. Above all, thank you to all of my readers whose comments and support always make my day brighter.

One of my favourite images of jasmine is by Michel ROUDNITSKA (protected by Art-et-Parfum copyright.)

Intermezzo: Reminiscences

Can one pack up an entire apartment, complete with a vintage fragrance collection in less than 72 hours? From my personal experience, I can tell that this is not a pleasant enterprise; yet, the ballet training has instilled stamina and discipline in me. Every morning when I wake up in the apartment filled with boxes and suitcases, I feel a pang. This was the place where I spent several years, which might seem perfect in the retrospect. I sat down for many hours at this table writing, reading, memorizing chemical formulas and studying aroma-materials. I walk from room to room, observing familiar details that will soon blur into the memories of the past. In a few days, the new routine will engulf me, but right now, indulging in reminiscences seems appropriate. ...

Latest News...

You might have noticed the lack of daily articles on perfume on Bois de Jasmin over the past few weeks. I have been traveling a lot on various fragrance projects, and I am also working on several writing assignments I am quite excited about sharing with you when the time comes. Nevertheless, next week I am planning to return with more regular features on BdJ, one of which will be the review of Sisley Soir de Lune. Have a great weekend!

Till Tuesday

I am traveling over the next few days, therefore my next article on Guerlain Sous le Vent will appear on Tuesday. I wish everyone a wonderful weekend.

Le Labo and More Work...

Despite my expectation to finish all of my work by the beginning of this week, it seems that there is no end in sight just yet. I still have two more projects to complete, therefore my attention has to be diverted away from Bois de Jasmin for the time being.

While I have not been sharing my thoughts here, I've had an opportunity to make a number of great discoveries, from vintage Guerlain fragrances like Heliotrope Blanc, to the niche novelties like Le Labo. Robin of Nowsmellthis has written about this line a few weeks ago. Interestingly enough (or perhaps not so surprisingly), the fragrances that turned out to be the most interesting are the ones created by the young perfumers. Daphne Bugey's Rose 31 and Bergamote 22 are much more unusual than Maurice Roucel's Ciste 18, which seems like a particularly poor rendition of his stunning Frédéric Malle Musc Ravageur. Even Neroli 36, a clean floral reminiscent of Frédéric Malle En Passant, wins against Roucel's Jasmin 17. Patchouli 24, a smooth leather and smoked woods arrangement, created by Annick Menardo tops the list of my favourites from this line. I hope to share my impressions in more detail towards the end of this week.

Next on These Pages...

I apologize for an absence of any reviews or news on the pages of Bois de Jasmin over the past few days. I have been kept busy by my university work. However, I shall return on Thursday with a review of the newest Armani Privé fragrance, Cuir Améthyste. 

Utopia...

"In communist society, where nobody has one exclusive sphere of activity but each can become accomplished in any branch he wishes, society regulates the general production and thus makes it possible for me to do one thing today and another tomorrow, to hunt in the morning, fish in the afternoon, rear cattle in the evening, criticize after dinner, just as I have a mind, without ever becoming hunter, fisherman, herdsman or critic," said Marx in German Ideology (1846.) Although being political scientist by day and fragrance writer by night has been working well for me thus far, this spring I have several comprehensive examinations, therefore I am forced to specialize until April 10th. It is remarkably difficult to switch gears between such diverse fields and frankly, there are days when after I spend 10h reading about structural equation models and electoral business cycles, inspiration to write something creative about perfume will often not materialize. I will still post, but the articles may not appear on daily basis until the exams are over on April 10th. Everything should go back to normal after that date. My next review will be on Monday.

Work, work, work...

Unfortunately, I have to undertake an important project which will keep me away for two days. I hope to be back on Wednesday with my review of Sira des Indes. Later, please see reviews of Hermes 24, Faubourg, Chanel No. 19, Annick Goutal Eau de Fier, and The Different Company Rose Poivree.

Happy Valentine's Day!

Happy Valentine's Day to everyone! I am taking a day off to study for exams. I will be back with a review tomorrow.   

Painting: Marc Chagall, 1938-39. Les mariés de la tour Eiffel. from cebl.org.

Perfume Article: Sweet Smell of New Jersey?

In the fall, the denizens of part of New York City and New Jersey noticed a strange smell reminiscent of maple syrup. A number of theories as to its origins have resurfaced, from terrorist attacks to fragrance and flavor industry emissions. New Jersey seems to be the prime suspect of the smell. New York Times article continue to probe the origins of smell, including interviews with companies such as International Flavor & Fragrances, which has two plants in New Jersey, in Hazlet (Monmouth County) and Dayton (Middlesex County). Read it here.

I apologize for the lack of promised article on Paul & Joe Bleu today, however since it is the last day of my vacation, there are certain things I must finish before classes start again. Hence, I am taking a day off from Bois de Jasmin to enjoy the last real weekend before the end of May. Have a wonderful day, everyone! Please come back Monday for my article on Bleu, an oriental ambery fragrance by Bourdon.

New Features

Now, in addition to the house, you can search the perfume reviews that appear on this site by either the dominant note or the nose behind a specific fragrance. Simply select Reviews from the menu bar under the banner and make your choice.

Vacation Till 18th of December

My long awaited vacation is finally here, and I shall have no posts this week. I shall return on December 18th with articles on the fragrances evoking snow and the perfume discoveries made during the previous week.

I wish everyone a great week!

Copyright Notice

Due to the recent wave of unauthorized usage of site contents from Bois de Jasmin, I am going to repost this again--Bois de Jasmin is protected by applicable copyright laws, which prohibit any usage of the material appearing on this site for commercial purposes (this includes Ebay auctions) without explicit consent from the author. At present, any material appearing on any commercial venue other than on this site is in violation of copyright laws. Please respect the time and effort that are put into this venue.

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Fragrance Reviews by Noses

Nose, perfumer, parfumeur-créateur are the synonyms for the person who creates the fragrance. While the final product may bear the creative input of the person commissioning it and the artistic direction team, the nose is the one who transforms the ideas and images into the liquid form. Some perfumers have an obvious fingerprint which they leave on their creations, therefore it is quite fascinating to try several fragrances done by the same person. If you are interested in reading more on perfumers, please consult Perfumer Profiles.

Mandy Aftel (read interview here)
Aftelier Licorice and Jasmine Solid Perfumes

Michel Almairac
Armani Privé Bois d'Encens
Armani Privé Cuir Améthyste
L’Artisan Parfumeur Voleur de Roses

Henri Alméras
Jean Patou Chaldée
Jean Patou Vacances

Danièle Andrier
Guerlain Angélique Noire "L'Art et la Matiere"

Dave Apel
Sean John Unforgivable

Ernest Beaux
Chanel Bois des Iles
Chanel Cuir de Russie

Carlos Benaïm
Calvin Klein Euphoria (with Dominique Ropion and Loc Dong)
Prada Eau de Parfum and Eau de Parfum Intense(with Clement Gavarry and Max Gavarry)
Victor & Rolf Flowerbomb and Flowerbomb Extrême (with Olivier Polge and Domitille Bertier)

Domitille Bertier
Victor & Rolf Flowerbomb and Flowerbomb Extrême (with Carlos Benaïm and Olivier Polge)

Jean-Pierre Béthouard
Caron Parfum Sacré

Evelyne Boulanger
Comme des Garçons Carnation (Red Series)
Comme des Garçons Zagorsk (Incense Series)

Pierre Bourdon
Christian Dior Dolce Vita (with Maurice Roger)
Frédéric Malle Iris Poudré
Paul & Joe Bleu
Shiseido Féminité du Bois(with Christopher Sheldrake)
Yves Saint Laurent Kouros

Daphné Bugey
Le Labo Neroli 36

Mark Buxton
Comme des Garçons White

Françoise Caron
Comme des Garçons Rose (Red Series) (with Yann Vasnier)
Le Labo Fleur d’Oranger 27

Germaine Cellier(more information here)
Balmain Jolie Madame
Robert Piguet Bandit
Robert Piguet Fracas

Bernard Chant
Parfums Grès Cabochard Vintage and Reorchestrated

François Coty
Coty L'Origan

Olivier Creed
Love in White

Olivier Cresp
Paco Rabanne Black XS

Alexis Dadier
Nelly Rodi Scent Factory #1 Incense

Ernest Daltroff
Caron Acaciosa
Caron Bellodgia
Caron French Cancan
Caron N’Aimez Que Moi
Caron Narcisse Blanc
Caron Narcisse Noir
Caron Nuit de Noël
Caron Tabac Blond

Steven Demercado
Marc Jacobs Blush
Paris Hilton

Mona di Orio
Mona di Orio Carnation

Claude Dir
Britney Spears In Control Curious

Loc Dong
Calvin Klein Euphoria (Dominique Ropion and Carlos Benaïm)

Isabelle Doyen
Annick Goutal Duel
Annick Goutal Eau du Fier
Annick Goutal Petite Cherie (brief description)
Annick Goutal Songes
Annick Goutal Vétiver

Karine Dubreuil
L’Artisan Parfumeur Mûre et Musc Extrême

Bertrand Duchaufour
Comme des Garçons Avignon (Incense Series)
L’Artisan Parfumeur Piment Brûlant
L’Artisan Parfumeur Poivre Piquant

Jean-Michel Duriez
Jean Patou Sira des Indes
Yohji Yamamoto Yohji Homme (brief description)

Celine Ellena
Jasmin de Nuit

Jean-Claude Ellena
Balenciaga Rumba (with Ron Winnegrad)
Cartier Déclaration
Frédéric Malle L’Eau d’Hiver
Hermès Hermèssence Ambre Narguilé (brief description)
Hermès Hermèssence Ambre Narguilé (full review)
Hermès Hermèssence Osmanthe Yunnan
Hermès Hermèssence Poivre Samarcande
Hermès Hermèssence Rose Ikebana (brief description)
Hermès Terre d’Hermès
Hermès Un Jardin Sur Le Nil
L’Artisan Parfumeur Bois Farine
Paul & Joe Blanc
The Different Company Bois d’Iris
The Different Company Divine Bergamote
The Different Company Rose Poivrée
Van Cleef & Arpels First
Yves Saint Laurent In Love Again Fleur de la Passion

Francis Fabron
Balenciaga Le Dix
Givenchy L’Interdit (origina)
Nina Ricci L’Air du Temps

Edouard Fléchier
Shiseido Féminité du Bois
Frédéric Malle Lys Mediterranee
Frédéric Malle Une Rose

Anne Flipo
L’Artisan Parfumeur Ananas Fizz
L’Artisan Parfumeur Fleur D'Oranger
L’Artisan Parfumeur La Chasse Aux Papillons
L’Artisan Parfumeur La Chasse Aux Papillons Extrême
Rochas Poupèe

Rodrigo Flores-Roux
Donna Karan Black Cashmere

André Fraysse
Lanvin Arpège, Original (with Paul Vacher)

Hubert Fraysse
Lanvin Arpège, Reorchestrated (after André Fraysse and Paul Vacher’s formula)

Richard Fraysse
Caron Tubéreuse

Clement Gavarry
Prada Eau de Parfum and Eau de Parfum Intense(with Carlos Benaïm and Max Gavarry)
Sarah Jessica Parker Lovely (with Laurent Le Guernec)

Max Gavarry
Prada Eau de Parfum and Eau de Parfum Intense(with Carlos Benaïm and Clement Gavarry)

Olivia Giacobetti(more information here)
Andrée Putmann Préparation Parfumée
Cinq Mondes Eau Egyptienne
Costes (EDT and room spray)
Frédéric Malle En Passant
Iunx 10 EDTs, Splash Forte
Iunx L’Ether
L’Artisan Parfumeur Dzing!
L’Artisan Parfumeur L’Eau du Fleuriste (brief description)
L’Artisan Parfumeur Premier Figuier
L’Artisan Parfumeur Premier Figuier Extrême
L'Artisan Parfumeur Mandarine Tout Simplement
L’Artisan Parfumeur Passage d'Enfer
L’Artisan Parfumeur Tea For Two
L’Artisan Parfumeur Safran Troublant
Lubin Idole de Lubin

Olivier Gillotin
10 Corso Como

Gerard Goupy
Lancôme Climat

Annick Goutal
Annick Goutal Eau d'Hadrien

Sophia Grojsman
S-Perfume 100% Love
Yves Saint Laurent Yvresse / Champagne

Aimé Guerlain
Guerlain Jicky

Jacques Guerlain
Guerlain Après l'Ondée
Guerlain L’Heure Bleue
Guerlain Mitsouko
Guerlain Shalimar
Guerlain Vega
Guerlain Vol de Nuit

Jean Paul Guerlain
Guerlain Chamade
Guerlain Chant d’Arômes
Guerlain Coriolan (brief description)
Guerlain Metallica/Metalys
Guerlain Nahéma
Guerlain Parure
Guerlain Plus Que Jamais
Guerlain Shalimar Light (and Mathilde Laurent)

Jean Guichard
Nina Ricci Deci Delà (brief description)

Lyn Harris
Miller Harris En Sens de Bois

Raphaël Haury
Parfums 06130 Cèdre
Parfums 06130 Yuzu Rouge

Richard Ibanez
Nelly Rodi Scent Factory #5 Gimgembre

Olivia Jan
Nelly Rodi Scent Factory #2 Rhum

James Krivda
Britney Spears Curious

Francis Kurkdjian
Christian Dior Cologne Blanche
Christian Dior Eau Noire
Narciso Rodriguez for Her
Narciso Rodriguez for Her (with Christine Nagel)

Camille Latron
Les Parfums de Rosine Rosa Flamenca
Les Parfums de Rosine Rose d’Amour

Benoit Lapouza
VIP Room

Christophe Laudamiel
Estée Lauder Youth Dew Amber Nude
S-Perfume S-ex

Mathilde Laurent
Attrape-Coeur / Guet-Apens (and Jean-Paul Guerlain)
Shalimar Light (and Jean-Paul Guerlain)

Laurent Le Guernec
Sarah Jessica Parker Lovely (with Clement Gavarry)

Antoine Lie
Burberry Brit Gold

Amandine Marie
Nelly Rodi Scent Factory #6 Bois

Annick Ménardo
Christian Dior Hypnotic Poison
Lancôme Hypnôse (with Thierry Wasser)

Daniel Molière
Diptyque Tam Dao

Alberto Morillas
S-Perfume Lust

Michel Morsetti
Caron Coup de Fouet
Caron Or et Noir
Caron Poivre

Christine Nagel
Armani Privé Ambre Soie
Cartier Delices de Cartier
Lancôme 2000 et Une Rôse
Narciso Rodriguez for Her(with Francis Kurkdjian)

Patricia Nicolaï
Parfums de Nicolaï Balle de Match
Parfums de Nicolaï Juste Un Rêve
Parfums de Nicolaï Nicolaï Pour Homme
Parfums de Nicolaï Number One
Parfums de Nicolaï Sacrebleu! (brief description)
Parfums de Nicolaï Vanille Tonka

Martine Pallix
Comme des Garçons Odeur 53

Olivier Pescheux
Lanvin Arpège Pour Homme

Fabrice Pellegrin
Diptyque Do Son
Nelly Rodi Scent Factory #3 Cardamome

Béatrice Piquet
L'Instant de Guerlain Pour Homme

Dorothée Piot
Nelly Rodi Scent Factory #4 Cacao
Nelly Rodi Scent Factory #7 Ambre
Nelly Rodi Scent Factory #8 Rose

Jacques Polge
Chanel Cristalle EDP

Olivier Polge
Christian Dior Homme
Victor & Rolf Flowerbomb and Flowerbomb Extrême(with Carlos Benaïm and Domitille Bertier)

François Robert
Les Parfums de Rosine Mea Culpa
Les Parfums de Rosine Rose D’Ete
Les Parfums de Rosine Rose d'Homme
Les Parfums de Rosine Une Folie de Rose
Les Parfums de Rosine Un Zeste de Rose(with Delphine Collignon)

Henri Robert
Chanel No 19
Chanel Cristalle EDT

Maurice Roger
Christian Dior Dolce Vita (with Pierre Bourdon)

Gilles Romey
Serge Lutens Rose de Nuit

Dominique Ropion
Calvin Klein Euphoria (with Carlos Benaïm and Loc Dong)
Caron Aimez Moi
Frédéric Malle Carnal Flower
J.Lo Live
Lalique Le Parfum

Maurice Roucel
Donna Karan Be Delicious
Donna Karan Red Delicious
Frédéric Malle Musc Ravageur
Guerlain L’Instant de Guerlain (brief description)
Guerlain L’Instant Eau de Noël Iris Millésime
Gucci Envy
Hermès 24, Faubourg

Edmond Roudnitska
Frédéric Malle Le Parfum de Thérèse
Rochas Femme

Michel Roudnitska(read interview here)
Frédéric Malle Noir Epices
Parfums DelRae Amoureuse
Parfums DelRae Bois de Paradis
Parfums DelRae Début

Ralf Schwieger
Frédéric Malle Lipstick Rose
Hermés Eau des Merveilles and Parfum des Merveilles

Christopher Sheldrake
Serge Lutens A La Nuit
Serge Lutens Bois de Violette
Serge Lutens Bois et Fruits
Serge Lutens Bois et Musk
Serge Lutens Bornéo 1834
Serge Lutens Cèdre
Serge Lutens Chergui
Serge Lutens Cuir Mauresque
Serge Lutens Fleurs de Citronnier
Serge Lutens Fumerie Turque
Serge Lutens Miel de Bois
Shiseido Féminité du Bois(with Pierre Bourdon)
SpaceNK Melodrama
Serge Lutens La Myrrhe
Serge Lutens Tubéreuse Criminelle

Paul Vacher
Lanvin Arpège, Original (with André Fraysse)

Yann Vasnier(read interview here)
Apothia L Eau de Parfum
Cerruti 1881 Collection
Comme des Garçons Rose (Red Series) (with Françoise Caron)
Divine L'âme Sœur
Divine L’Homme de Coeur
Keiko Mecheri Gourmandises

Lorenzo Villoresi
Lorenzo Villoresi Garofano

Frank Voelkl
As4 "Curated by Colette" Three as Four Parfum
Le Labo Iris 39

Pierre Wargnye
Givenchy Very Irrésistible for men

Thierry Wasser
Lancôme Hypnôse (with Annick Ménardo)
S-Perfume Sloth

Ron Winnegrad
Balenciaga Rumba (with Jean-Claude Ellena)

Mme. Zed
Lanvin My Sin

Fragrance Reviews by Notes

Last updated : May 5, 2006. The list arranges fragrances under the dominant notes and in some cases, families. It is not a definitive classification by any means, but rather a possibly helpful way to ease navigation through the list of reviews found on Bois de Jasmin.

Aldehydes (Floral Aldehydic)
Balenciaga Le Dix
Divine L'âme Sœur
Givenchy L’Interdit (original and reformulated versions)
Guerlain Plus Que Jamais
Guerlain Vega
Lancôme Climat
Lanvin Arpège, Original and Reorchestrated
SpaceNK Melodrama
Van Cleef & Arpels First

Almond
Christian Dior Cologne Blanche
Christian Dior Hypnotic Poison
Paul & Joe Blanc

Amber
Armani Privé Ambre Soie
Burberry Brit Gold
Cartier Delices de Cartier
Estée Lauder Youth Dew Amber Nude
Guerlain Attrape-Coeur / Guet-Apens
Guerlain Plus Que Jamais
Hermès Hermèssence Ambre Narguilé
Hermès Eau des Merveilles and Parfum des Merveilles
Nelly Rodi Scent Factory #7 Ambre
Paco Rabanne Black XS

Angelica
Guerlain Angélique Noire "L'Art et la Matiere"

Anise/Licorice
Aftelier Perfumes Licorice Solid Perfumes
Caron Aimez Moi
Guerlain Après l'Ondée
Guerlain L’Heure Bleue
Guerlain L'Instant de Guerlain Pour Homme

Cardamom
Nelly Rodi Scent Factory #3 Cardamome

Carnation (read about carnation here)
Caron Bellodgia
Caron Coup de Fouet
Comme de Garçons Carnation (Red Series)
Guerlain Metallica/Metalys
JAR Parfums Diamond Waters
JAR Parfums Golconda
Lorenzo Villoresi Garofano
Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Soie Rouge
Nina Ricci L’Air du Temps
Novaya Zarya Krasnaya Moskva (Red Moscow)

Cedar (read about cedar here)
Armani Privé Bois d'Encens
Christian Dior Dolce Vita
Comme de Garçons White
Hermès Un Jardin Sur Le Nil
Iunx L’Ether
L’Artisan Parfumeur Bois Farine
Nanadebarry Classic Pink
Ormonde Jayne Isfahan Pour Homme
Parfums Delrae Bois de Paradis
Serge Lutens Bois de Violette
Serge Lutens Bois et Fruits
Serge Lutens Bois et Musk
Serge Lutens Cèdre
Shiseido Féminité du Bois

Chocolate
Cartier Delices de Cartier

Chocolate
Aquolina Chocolovers
Christian Dior Homme
Nelly Rodi Scent Factory #4 Cacao
Serge Lutens Bornéo 1834

Chypre
Balmain Jolie Madame
Chanel Cuir de Russie
Chanel Cristalle EDT
Guerlain Chant d’Arômes
Guerlain Mitsouko
Guerlain Parure
Guerlain Rose Barbare
Hermès Parfum des Merveilles
Parfums Grès Cabochard Vintage and Reorchestrated
Robert Piguet Bandit
Serge Lutens Rose de Nuit

Cinnamon
Comme de Garçons White
Parfums de Nicolaï Sacrebleu! (brief description)

Citrus (read about citrus here)
Annick Goutal Eau d'Hadrien
Chanel Cristalle EDT and EDP
Christian Dior Addict 2
Guerlain Shalimar Light
Parfums de Nicolaï Balle de Match
Parfums 06130 Yuzu Rouge
Sean John Unforgivable
The Different Company Divine Bergamote

Coffee
Givenchy Very Irrésistible for men

Fougère (lavender, coumarin and oakmoss)
Caron Le 3ème Homme de Caron/Third Man/Troisème Homme
Guerlain Jicky
Yves Saint Laurent Kouros

Galbanum
Guerlain Vol de Nuit
Robert Piguet Bandit

Ginger
Nelly Rodi Scent Factory #5 Gimgembre

Hedione (read about hedione here)
Comme de Garçons Odeur 53
Van Cleef & Arpels First

Helichrysum/Immortelle
Christian Dior Eau Noire

Hyacinth (read more about hyacinth here)
Chanel Cristalle EDP
Guerlain Chamade
Gucci Envy
Jean Patou Chaldée

Incense
Armani Privé Bois d'Encens
Caron Nuit de Noël
Caron Parfum Sacré
Cinq Mondes Eau Egyptienne
Comme des Garçons Avignon (Incense Series)
Comme des Garçons Zagorsk (Incense Series)
Costes (EDT and room spray)
Donna Karan Black Cashmere
Donna Karan Labdanum Essence
Iunx L’Ether
L’Artisan Parfumeur Passage d'Enfer
Miller Harris En Sens de Bois
Nelly Rodi Scent Factory #1 Incense
Vanille Tonka

Iris
As4 "Curated by Colette" Three as Four Parfum
Caron Narcisse Blanc
Cerruti 1881 Collection
Christian Dior Homme
Divine L’Homme de Coeur
Frédéric Malle L’Eau d’Hiver
Frédéric Malle Iris Poudré
Guerlain Attrape-Coeur / Guet-Apens
Guerlain Après l'Ondée
Guerlain L’Heure Bleue
Guerlain L’Instant Eau de Noël Iris Millésime
Lanvin Arpège Pour Homme
The Different Company Bois d’Iris

Jasmine (read about jasmine here)
Aftelier Perfumes Jasmine Solid Perfumes
Annick Goutal Songes
Caron Acaciosa
Donna Karan Jasmine Essence
Frédéric Malle Le Parfum de Thérèse
Fresh Index Pink Jasmine
L’Artisan Parfumeur La Chasse Aux Papillons
Marc Jacobs Blush
Parfums Delrae Amoureuse
Parfums de Nicolaï Number One
Serge Lutens A La Nuit
The Different Company Jasmin de Nuit
Van Cleef & Arpels First

Jonquil
Guerlain Vol de Nuit

Lavender
Christian Dior Eau Noire
Donna Karan Lavender Essence
Guerlain Jicky
Les Parfums de Rosine Rose d'Homme
Parfums de Nicolaï Nicolaï Pour Homme
Serge Lutens Gris Clair

Leather
Balmain Jolie Madame
Caron Tabac Blond
Chanel Cuir de Russie
Frédéric Malle Le Parfum de Thérèse
Lubin Idole de Lubin
Parfums Grès Cabochard Vintage and Reorchestrated
Robert Piguet Bandit
Serge Lutens Cuir Mauresque
S-Perfume S-ex
VIP Room

Licorice
Aftelier Perfumes Licorice Solid Perfumes

Lilac
Caron N’Aimez Que Moi
Frédéric Malle En Passant
Jean Patou Vacances

Lily
Frédéric Malle Lys Méditerranée

Lily of the Valley (read more about lotv here)
Gucci Envy
Parfums Delrae Début

Linden
L’Artisan Parfumeur La Chasse Aux Papillons

Lotus (read about lotus and water lily here)
Cinq Mondes Eau Egyptienne
Hermès Un Jardin Sur Le Nil

Mango
Hermès Un Jardin Sur Le Nil

Mate
Lanvin Arpège Pour Homme
Annick Goutal Duel

Musk(read about musks here)
Frédéric Malle Musc Ravageur
L’Artisan Parfumeur Dzing!
Narciso Rodriguez for Her
Serge Lutens Bois et Musk
Sarah Jessica Parker Lovely

Myrrh
Serge Lutens La Myrrhe

Narcissus
Caron Narcisse Blanc
Caron Narcisse Noir
Parfums de Nicolaï Number One

Oakmoss
Caron N’Aimez Que Moi
Caron Nuit de Noël
Chanel Cuir de Russie
Chanel Cristalle EDT
Guerlain Chant d’Arômes
Guerlain Mitsouko
Guerlain Parure
Parfums Grès Cabochard Vintage and Reorchestrated
Robert Piguet Bandit

Orange Blossom/Neroli
Caron Narcisse Blanc
Caron Narcisse Noir
L’Artisan Parfumeur Fleur D'Oranger
Serge Lutens Fleurs de Citronnier
S-Perfume Sloth

Osmanthus
Hermès Hermèssence Osmanthe Yunnan
Ormonde Jayne Osmanthus

Oudh
Montale Aoud Lime
Montale Aoud Queen Roses
Montale Steam Aoud
Paul & Joe Bleu

Passionfruit
Lancôme Hypnôse

Patchouli (read about patchouli here)
Aesop Marrakech
Gobin Daudé Parfums Jardins Ottomans
Hermès Parfum des Merveilles
L’Artisan Parfumeur Voleur de Roses
Prada Eau de Parfum and Eau de Parfum Intense
Serge Lutens Bornéo 1834
S-Perfume Lust

Patchouli paired with Gourmand