Top Favorite Fall Fragrances : Perfume Article

Autumn is one of my favorite seasons, given the melancholic connotations in the early dusks and fallen leaves. It is a time when I fully give in to nostalgia, imagining the cherry trees in the garden of my childhood turning russet, the first frost on the shaggy bushes of chrysanthemums near the wooden gate, and the plaintive cry of cranes crossing the overcast sky above the terracotta roof of our house. Thinking of these familiar images, I reach out for a compilation of Turgenev and gaze out of my window at the rows of slender maple trees dropping their crimson leaves into the puddles.

This year is different in that I found myself with precious little time for nostalgic contemplations. I have started perfumery school full-time, which means that now I spend all of my day smelling which makes for a different routine at work. I am preparing for my winter wedding in India, planning things like accommodations for my friends and the colors of my wedding outfits, since white is not traditional. Still, I notice that my fragrance choices for autumn fall into the nostalgic realm: classical ambers, animalic chypres, spicy orientals and dark roses. However, since the choices themselves depend on my mood and the weather, I decided to organize my list in this manner: a set of fragrances for each autumnal mood.

Top 10 Favorite Summer Fragrances 2009

Mark Twain once said that “The coldest winter I ever spent was a summer in San Francisco.” He should have visited New York this summer! I have been wearing my fall jackets in the middle of July and packing an extra sweater just in case, along with an umbrella and a trench coat. As much as I would like to complain, I have to admit that I enjoy cold summers because they allow me to fully appreciate the delicate scents that fill the air. The green foliage that tends to dull and faded by this time is instead bright and crisp. The wild roses are still covered with raspberry scented petals. The strawberries are still delicious and sweet. I have also enjoyed darker, richer perfumes that ordinarily would have been too overwhelming in the summer heat. Yet, this summer the voluptuous roses of Guerlain Nahema are as appropriate as scintillating Hermes Eau de Pamplemousse Rose. All in all, every cloud has a silver lining. Please see my list below for the favorite fragrances that made this summer enchanting. NB: I added my perfume descriptions!

Maria Tallchief, Balanchine and Guerlain : Perfume Vignette

"One afternoon, we went to the House of Guerlain. George [Balanchine] wanted to choose a perfume for me. We sampled several before he settled on L'Heure Bleue (the expression the French have for twighlight), a beautiful, subtle fragrance that I still use today. George dabbed some on my neck below my ear and lowered his head. His lips softly touched mine. The solemnity with which he conducted the perfume ritual, and the unexpected display of affection, was a surprise and was more fulfilling because of that. I felt gratified and loved" (p.66, Maria Tallchief By Maria Tallchief, Larry Kaplan)

The first time I've read this passage from the autobiography of a renowned ballerina Maria Tallchief, I felt both moved and saddened. The former reaction was ellicited by the effect of perfume on these two people. The latter by my realization that obviously the love for L'Heure Bleue outlasted Tallchief's marriage to Balanchine, a genius choreographer who changed the face of American ballet. 

Whether one knows anything about ballet or not, this passage is a wonderful and rare glimpse into another woman's relationship with scent. I hope to share more of such vignettes on these pages.

Photo: Maria Tallchief from Fargo Film Festival.

Happy May Day : Lily of the Valley Fragrances

Happy May Day! In France, May Day is associated with the lily of the valley (muguet in French), a symbol of purity and a reminder of spring. If I were about to spend 9h on the plane, I would wear Christian Dior Diorissimo, the most perfect lily of the valley fragrance. Or perhaps, vintage Coty Muguet des Bois. Nonetheless, I would like to mention a few of the lily of the valley related articles on Bois de Jasmin as well as to offer a list of more than 40 fragrances dominated by that note.

Spring Flower Bouquet ~ Lily of the Valley discusses some of the most quintessential lily of the valley fragrances and offers several suggestions, from classical to modern. It includes links to lily of the valley fragrance reviews.

Top 10 Spring Fragrance 2009 and Prize Draw

It is an exciting spring for me for many different reasons! First of all, I got engaged to a wonderful man who supports me 100% in all of my endeavors (even if it entails being a skin model for the new fragrances I am testing.) # I am sure that you will hear plenty of musings from me on the wedding scent ideas in the coming months! Secondly, this morning I learned that my article Scent of Cities: Kiev has been recognized with a FiFi award for Editorial Excellence. It was a very personal article for me—I wrote it thinking about my childhood city, and as I prepare to return to Ukraine next week after 4 years of absence, this recognition holds a special significance for me. I also want to congratulate all perfume bloggers, because the Editorial Excellence in Blog category is an important gesture of appreciation on the part of The Fragrance Foundation for our work. It is wonderful to be a part of such a diverse and interesting group.

As I consider the season and the scents that make the spring of 2009 special, a few favorites stand out immediately. My list below (in alphabetical order) reflects my preferences this spring.

Best of 2008 : Fragrances and Memories

Thinking about 2008, I immediately reflect on the olfactive impressions I collected over the course of the year. Sure, I had a chance to smell many interesting new launches and revisit old favorites, but the dominating memories of 2008 that made it a special year for me are not necessarily found in the bottle. They are the scents I found as I traveled, as I worked on new combinations of notes, as I cooked at home and danced at my ballet studio. I wanted to capture these memories to share them with you, therefore my list below will present my olfactive highlights of 2008, along with the photographs I took.   

 

Henna  Ornaments

India: Weddings in India are indelibly linked to the ritual of mehndi, the application of henna paste in order to form designs on the hands and feet. The scent of henna with its soft leather and warm hay notes clings to the skin for days, if not weeks, as the henna stain wears off. Beautiful soothing aroma.

Top 10 Fall Fragrances : 2008 Autumn Musings

Autumn, automne, خريفي, 秋, осень… By any name this season retains for me its associations with the languid decay, with the bittersweet end of beauty, with the melancholy. I was born in the fall, and that is why perhaps the autumn and its scents appeal to me. The dampness of fallen leaves, the rooty fragrance of wet earth, the incense of distant bonfires… Let the scents below serve as a journey into the autumn with me.

Amouage Homage Attar

Amouage is a fascinating fragrance house given its history steeped in the rich perfume traditions of Oman, the site of the ancient Frankincense Road. Created as a means to preserve the country’s perfume-making traditions, Amouage offers a range which allows a glimpse both into the splendors of grand French perfumery as well as the smouldering beauty of the Eastern scents. If Amouage Gold and Jubilation 25 for Women fit well into the former category, Homage occupies the latter. I love the traditional combination of rose, oud, sandalwood and frankincense with the modern clarity and sparkle. An introspective and serene scent. 

Top 10 Summer Fragrances 2008

Every year I wait for the summer impatiently, even if I know that once the mercury levels start rising, I shall be miserable and cranky. Yet, the idea of a summer escape, of azure waves, of golden sand sticking to the skin, of ripe peaches, of jasmine scented nights is too irresistible, too seductive. My summer of 2008 is none of these things (save for jasmine and peaches.) It is filled with work projects, and whatever escape I manage lies in books and perfume. A spray of something orange blossom scented, and I am transported to Riviera. A hint of dark woods and cardamom, and I am having a cup of coffee someplace in the Omani oasis. The perfumes below are just that—tickets for my escapist fantasies. ...

Scents of Cities : Kiev

I can give you a long list of reasons why I am scent obsessed. The main one is that nothing captures better the feeling of a place than its smells. Therefore, I would like to paint an olfactory portrait of each city that made an impression on me and take you on a journey. The first city I selected for this series is the city of my birth, Kiev, the capital of Ukraine. The turbulent history of the city, from its grandeur as a capital of Kievan Rus to the post-Soviet confusion, marks every stone on its streets. The gilded domes of the numerous Orthodox churches emerge from the lush greenery of the historic city on the Right Bank, while modern high-rises crowd the Left. Burial caves for medieval ascetic monks neighbor WWII memorials. Billboards advertising Nokia cell phones crown the baroque Stalinesque buildings of the 1950s. Most of my early scent memories are connected to Kiev, and no matter where I find myself, I only have to think of a few scents in order for all its streets, sounds and people to spring from my memory. ...

Do You Have Skin? On Skin Chemistry and Perfume

“Do you have skin? I only need one arm.” I am in my office speaking on the phone with an evaluator (an individual who works with the perfumer to guide him/her on the project). Spending most of my waking hours in the fragrance world sometimes makes me feel as if I am jettisoned into another universe. It is small, closed, and very passionate.  The language it uses is laden with industry specific jargon and turns of phrase. Take the aforementioned and very common scenario. The first time I heard this question I was utterly baffled, being completely unprepared for such a query. Of course, the answer is simple—skin is needed to test the fragrance. Although paper blotters are used heavily to study the development of a fragrance composition, the skin is the ultimate test. As a result, I wear no fragrance to work to make sure I “have skin,” and I return home wearing up to 8 different perfumes on my arms. I always get a seat on the train. …