Christian Dior Escale a Portofino : Perfume Review

In sartorial terms, an effervescent citrus cologne is as versatile and timeless as a tailored suit or a little black dress. It is immediately appealing and effortlessly chic, while still having a striking presence. Yet, after a while all little black dresses start to look similar, and all colognes exhibit that familiar fresh burst followed by the floral sweetness or the woody dryness. As one knows all too well, familiarity breeds contempt. In this light, I have put the newest cologne offering, Christian Dior Escale à Portofino, to test….

Frederic Malle Angeliques Sous la Pluie : Perfume Review

Angéliques Sous la Pluie is a sleeper of the Frédéric Malle collection. Next to the opulent blossoms of Carnal Flower, the delicious darkness of Vetiver Extraordinaire or the smoldering beauty of Noir Epices, its ethereal presence can be perceived as somewhat muted. However, spray it on your skin first thing in the morning and inhale… Effervescent, luminous, pleasantly dry, Angéliques Sous la Pluie is like a sip of champagne. Its simplicity and elegance are so masterfully expressed that it manages to achieve that elusive quality of subtle signature—of memorable presence and delicate aura. …

Lancome Cyclades : Perfume Review and On Duty-Free Shopping

Given the fact that flying is such a nuisance these days, I can do without olfactory ennui at duty-free shops. However, unless one chooses to stock up on the old favorites, the duty-free shelves offer little olfactory excitement. The choices range from uninspired to comical. By way of example, Dior and Givenchy seem to favor pale fruity-florals and lots of pronouns (Dior Me, Dior Me Not, My Givenchy, My Givenchy Dream). Bali in Kenzo’s inexplicably named 7:15am in Bali smells like a vodka cocktail. Then, I am led to conclude that the only thing that caused Azzaro to name their travel retail scent Jetlag was perhaps being in such a state indeed. On the other hand, what could be their excuse for Cockpit? …

Annick Goutal Les Orientalistes : Fragrance Review of Ambre Fetiche, Encens Flamboyant, Myrrhe Ardente

The deeper I delve into perfumery, the more often I pose the question, “why perfume?” to myself. Why do I write about perfume? Why is it that exploring this subject never fails to be exciting and fascinating? Perhaps, it is because scents provide a way to experience the world in a manner that cannot be replicated with any of our other senses. Recently, an illustration of this appeared in the guise of Annick Goutal Les Orientalistes, a trio of fragrances inspired by the classical oriental notes—amber (Ambre Fétiche,) myrrh (Myrrhe Ardente) and frankincense (Encens Flamboyant.) They offered me an inspiration to dream.

Serge Lutens Sarrasins : Perfume Review

White jasmine, black jasmine. New love, old flame. That is how I think of Sarrasins, the newest fragrance from Serge Lutens’s exclusive range, and À La Nuit, the 2000 launch. Given the deep purple color of Sarrasins, one is led to expect a dark and sonorous rendition of jasmine. However, nothing could be further from the truth—Sarrasins is radiant, almost see-through, from its initial burst of citrus and wintergreen notes to the dry, leathery base. By contrast, À La Nuit has a remarkable heft, given its high calorie oriental base of vanillic balsams and resins. ...

Dior Addict : Perfume Review

Life is full of ironies. The more I smell Dior Addict, the more I admire it and the more I realize that I will never be able to wear it. The contrasts between a languid floral oriental and an assertive dry chypre that fascinate me on a technical level render the fragrance very sharp. The impressive sillage of dry woody notes and rich vanilla drapes around me like heavy velvet. Russian women, whose tastes in perfume run the gamut from classical floral aldehydic to high calorie orientals, embraced it, but according to market research, they are the only ones who did. …

Tom Ford Velvet Gardenia : Fragrance Review

Have you ever noticed how faces are much easier to recognize in caricatures when their features are exaggerated than in photographs? For this same reason Tom Ford Velvet Gardenia might offer the truest gardenia one can find in the perfume form. Certainly, there are plenty of fragrances that incorporate beautiful gardenia accords (Hermès Calèche, Dior Diorama, Estée Lauder Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia), but to smell Velvet Gardenia is to experience a flower magnified by several degrees—smooth, waxy petals, green leaves and woody stems, animalic, dark notes of its roots. Its scent is creamy and intoxicating, smoldering and airy, floral and balsamic. What seems at first like an improbable juxtaposition of effects soon unfolds into a complex gardenia story. ...

Estee Lauder Pleasures Revisited : Perfume Review

I enjoy re-reading books that struck me as memorable. As time passes and one gains more experience and knowledge, one’s perspective changes sufficiently to make new discoveries. Revisiting fragrance is not much different in that respect--the knowledge one gains in the interim makes one understand better the art and the pleasure of perfume. Estée Lauder Pleasures has been on my list to reevaluate for quite some time, largely because of its reputation as a modern classic. It was never a personal favorite--its clean and wholesome aesthetic runs counter to my love for things dark and mysterious. However, as I wear it, I cannot but admire its strong signature and its gorgeous layers of floral absolutes set against the crisp green notes. …

Guerlain Cruel Gardenia : Perfume Review

You would be hard-pressed to find a more devoted Guerlain lover than me. I also happen to adore white florals in all shapes and forms—jasmine, tuberose, seringa, gardenia, frangipani, magnolia. However, my first impression when I smelled Cruel Gardénia from the L’Art et la Matière collection was utter disappointment. Where is gardenia, I wondered? Sure, it flits through the top note, but the floral impression that lingers is that of orange blossom and ylang ylang wrapped in a cloud of hedione (airy and diffusive jasmine material). Nevertheless, it is very elegantly constructed, and I do not want to dismiss it altogether, even if I miss the intoxicating gardenia. …

Nina Ricci Nina : Fragrance Review

I cannot get away from Nina, despite all my best efforts. It tops the charts of best-sellers, its pretty pink bottle shows up at every trend presentation, and its cotton candy and dry amber scent pervades the subway. Along with Marc Jacobs Daisy and Vera Wang Princess, it is a good example of how given the right configuration of brand name, marketing and packaging, one can easily create a top seller. Of course, the fragrance is important too—it has to be trendy, pretty and likeable. I like Daisy well enough, Princess is inoffensive, but Nina and I simply cannot find a compromise. …

Hermes Un Jardin Apres La Mousson : Perfume Review

The new Hermès fragrance Un Jardin Après La Mousson (Garden After Monsoon) was among my most anticipated launches this spring, simply because I loved the fact that Jean-Claude Ellena, Hermès' in-house perfumer, drew inspiration from Kerala, one of the most beautiful regions in India. Furthermore, my first stay in India coincided with the long awaited beginning of the monsoon. As the first few drops of rain fell on the dusty streets of New Delhi, the stifling dryness of the air was cleared, the dust settled and the stone facades of the grand Mogul mausoleums took on a mesmerizing sheen. I sat in the courtyard of my friend’s apartment building surrounded by the smell of wet jasmine and ate the most luscious mangoes I have tried in my entire life. It was pure bliss. On the other hand, the end to this season of never-ending and potentially destructive rains holds as much anticipation as its beginning. …

Guerlain Laurier Reglisse and Figue Iris : Aqua Allegoria Perfume Review

As much as I love the complex perfumes that are the olfactory equivalents of Tolstoy’s War and Peace, I am always looking forward to Guerlain’s Aqua Allegoria collection, which tends to feature much more lighthearted fare. The selection runs the gamut from ingenious Pamplemousse to lovely Herba Fresca to decidedly dull and un-kiwi like Tutti Kiwi. This year’s Laurier Réglisse and Figue Iris caught my eye with their unusual and potentially brilliant pairings—bay leaf and licorice, fig and iris. I felt as curious about experimenting with these ideas in the kitchen as about smelling them on my skin. …

Thierry Mugler A Travers le Miroir : Perfume Review

Smelling and dismissing one new launch after the next, I start to worry that I am becoming jaded. It is even more depressing when it comes to reviewing, because unless a strong emotion stirs me, it is difficult to find inspiration for writing during my morning train ride. I would rather catch up on my sleep. Thankfully, there do exist new fragrances that manage to awake me from my literal and figurative slumber. Since I smelled À Travers le Miroir from the new Thierry Mugler Miroir Miroir collection a couple of months ago, it has been on my mind. Therefore, I decided to return to it for a closer look. …

Chanel Sycomore : 1930 and 2008

def: vetiver -- frequently used in perfumery, vetiver oil is steam distilled from the rootlets of grass Vetiveria Zizanoides. It has a dark earthy-woody aroma, with a grapefruit bitterness and a touch of anise-like sweet spiciness.

The newest addition to Les Exclusifs range, Sycomore is advertised as inspired by the fragrance originally created in 1930. I have a bottle of the original, therefore I was curious to compare the two. I would describe the original Sycomore as closer in spirit to Bois des Iles (vetiver, sandalwood and soft aldehydes.) It played up its gamine features with a twist of tobacco and violet.  The new Sycomore eschews the obvious floral allusions. It is an elegant and pared down vetiver, which emphasizes the green hazelnut facet of the root. The embellishments are subtle, yet they serve to highlight the beauty of the raw material well. With hardly any retro references, Sycomore (2008) is a thoroughly modern fragrance. As far as I can tell, there are few, if any, allusions to the vintage. ...

Prada Infusion d'Iris : Perfume Review

"They were black when she was in shadow and dark blue in full daylight." I smell Infusion d’Iris, the latest fragrance from Prada, and Gustav Flaubert’s description of Emma Bovary’s eyes floats up in mind. Is it because I just finished re-reading Madame Bovary and the phrase is still fresh in my memory? Or is it because I find that Infusion d’Iris exhibits the marked diversity of nuances, much like the eyes of beautiful Emma? …

Kate by Kate Moss Perfume : Fragrance Review

Kate Moss is a personality that stands out in the sleek and gorgeous model milieu. She was the embodiment of the 1990s and its minimalism. She was the face of Calvin Klein. She took on Chanel as the Coco Mademoiselle cover girl. She had her share of controversies and successes. Her style is the most imitated of all models (and it can now be purchased at Barneys under her new clothing label). For those aspiring to more, there is now a fragrance by Moss, simply called Kate.

Chanel No 5 Eau Premiere : Perfume Review

I very much anticipated the launch of No.5 Eau Première. Granted, not everything from Chanel has enchanted me. I could live without Chance and the numerous masculine Allure flankers. Les Exclusifs could have possessed more tenacity. Yet, all of this notwithstanding, I am hard-pressed to point out another fragrance house (with the important and notable exception of Estée Lauder in the US) that pays so much attention to the actual contents of the fragrance flacons. The fruity jasmine, the sumptuous rose and the seductively creamy musk of No.5 Eau Première have the kind of richness and quality that seems to be more and more difficult to find elsewhere.

Robert Piguet Visa : Fragrance Review

Although Fracas and Bandit are the fragrances most firmly linked with Robert Piguet’s name, the perfumes credited to this house include a range of other memorably named creations: Calypso, Hirondelle, Mimo, Cattleya, Futur. Visa was created in 1947, its seductive and voluptuous form contrasting markedly with the restrained elegance of other fragrances launched during the same year – Christian Dior Miss Dior, Caron Farnesiana, Balenciaga Le Dix. ...

Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia by Estee Lauder : Perfume Review

In many ways, perfumery has to build upon its past—within every new and groundbreaking idea there is a kernel of tradition. Over the past few years, we have seen Guerlain, Chanel, Robert Piguet, and Lancôme opening their archives. Although Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia is not a re-issue of the classical Estée Lauder Private Collection introduced in 1973, its clear connection with the great Lauder legacy makes it an exciting launch. Whatever expectations I had of this fragrance, they were more than exceeded when I finally had a chance to try it….

Miller Harris Fleurs de Sel : Perfume Review

The love affair with chypre fragrances—those complex and intense harmonies of citrus, floral, woody, mossy and animalic notes—has always been tumultuous. If some families such as florals have an immediate and familiar appeal, abstract chypres require more patience in order to appreciate them. Yet, witnessing the revival of the family over the past few years leads me to conclude that we are once again in a chypre-infatuated decade. …

Helmut Lang Eau de Cologne : Fragrance Review

The story of the Helmut Lang fashion house is a testament to the transience of fashion. During the minimalist phase of the mid 1990s, Helmut Lang’s severe, deconstructed pieces were among the most coveted, showered with awards and recognition. Yet, fast forward to 2000, and the future for Helmut Lang no longer looks promising—the house has been sold, the designer is losing more and more of his rights, the popularity of his designs is starting to wane. This same year, the house introduced a line of fragrances, starting with the he/she duo Eau de Cologne and Eau de Parfum created by perfumer Maurice Roucel and then offering Cuiron composed by Françoise Caron. Even though the line was discontinued shortly after Helmut Lang left his own house, Eau de Cologne and Cuiron have managed to achieved an almost cult status. By smelling them one can understand why. …

Amouage Gold : Fragrance Review

When the house of Amouage was established in 1983 by the Sultan of Oman, the renowned perfumer Guy Robert essentially received carte blanche when it came to creating the signature Amouage fragrance. Now known as Amouage Gold, it is a perfume epitomizing luxury and opulence, a composition of traditional Omani ingredients, yet created in the grand style of French perfumery. Robert, whose creations include Hermès Equipage, Doblis and Calèche, Christian Dior Dioressence, and Madame Rochas, is a master of the gilded and elegant compositions that evoke mirrored ballrooms and Strauss waltzes. Likewise, Gold is a polished and luminous fragrance that dazzles without ever losing its refined quality. …

Tom Ford Private Blend Amber Absolute : Perfume Review

I knew that Amber Absolute was going to be my favourite from Tom Ford’s Private Blend when, after sampling all twelve fragrances, it stood out in my mind. Returning to my samples again and again, I came to admire two fragrances above all--Amber Absolute and Oud Wood . While the latter is an interesting polished and transparent take on oud, the former is a voluptuous and resinous composition. One can almost feel the heft and the slightly rough texture of raw silk when smelling this dramatic amber. …

Guerlain Oud Sensuel and Garden Sensuel : Perfume Oils Review

“Fill the tent with a variety of different perfumes: ambergris, musk and all sorts of scents, such as rose, orange flowers, jonquils, jasmine, hyacinth, carnation and other plants. This done, have placed there several gold censers filled with green aloes, ambergris, naddah and such like.”
from the 15th century Arab book The Perfumed Garden of Sensual Delight.*

The house of Guerlain has been enchanted with the East for much of its history, from Persian Bouquet (1840), Shalimar (1925) to Samsara (1989). In this light, it is not surprising to discover that Garden Sensuel and Oud Sensuel Huiles de Parfum released this spring are inspired by the perfume oil tradition of the Middle and Far East. The writings of Herodotus, Theophrastus, Pliny as well as the Arabian Nights Tales attest to the opulence and sophistication of Middle Eastern perfumery. If the 18th court of Louis XV was known as le cour parfumée (perfumed court), then that of Baghdad’s Abbasid Caliphs deserved this title more than 10 centuries earlier. …

Chanel No 18 : Perfume Review

Chanel No 18 is startling. Unctuous and green at first, reminiscent of olive oil and green tea leaves, it becomes warm and floral, separating into soft billowing layers of fruity rose and powdery musk. The striking simplicity of this composition belies its inherent loveliness. It is gentle without becoming meek, delicate without appearing pale and feminine without being clichéd. …

Guerlain Iris Ganache : Perfume Review

Ganache is a mixture of chocolate and cream, which is blended until a soft, melting and decadently rich texture is attained. For the newest addition to Guerlain’s L'Art et la Matiere collection, which already includes Angélique Noire, Bois d’Arménie, Rose Barbare, and Cuir Beluga, perfumer Thierry Wasser took the richness of ganache as inspiration for an iris scent. If you are a regular visitor to Bois de Jasmin’s pages, you already know of my fascination with the iris note. I find the scent derived from iris roots quite beguiling—it is half way between flower and root, vegetal matter and mineral dust. Discovering Iris Ganache was quite an interesting experience. It proved that iris, when made overly sweet, can lose its elegant character and assume quite a flamboyant demeanour. …

Nostalgia by Santa Maria Novella : Fragrance Review

Aquatic and fresh masculine fragrances have never appealed to me beyond a brief period of infatuation in the 1990s when the trend was still novel and distinctive. After the hundreds of Cool Water and Aqua di Giò clones, I no longer feel interested in this genre. On the other hand, fragrances that explore earthy, smoky and leathery notes never fail to catch my attention. In many ways, their appeal lies in their distinctive character, very much different from the crisp, fresh, and ozonic creations that dominate the masculine market right now. While Santa Maria Novella Nostalgia is a fragrance that should not be reserved only for men, it is a fragrance I want to smell on men around me….

Chanel 31, rue Cambon : Perfume Review

The melancholy aura and retro elegance of 31, rue Cambon are fascinating, given its decidedly modern interpretation. Experiencing it is like flipping through the pages of an old family album, glancing at the photographs of people in Edwardian outfits and flapper dresses only to notice a striking resemblance between their features and your own. While 31, rue Cambon is a chypre (a fragrance based on the interplay of citrusy, floral, woody, mossy, ambery/musky notes à la Guerlain Mitsouko and Rochas Femme), this chypre possesses a certain delicate and serene quality. 31, rue Cambon is not a fragrance that seduces, but rather it enchants softly. …

Paloma Picasso Mon Parfum : Perfume Review

A woman who wears Paloma Picasso Mon Parfum is most certainly not a wallflower. Even the first impression of this fragrance banishes any thoughts to the contrary. The lemony brightness of hedione and the green richness of the floral accord do not hide the animalic warmth and honeyed patchouli foiling the heart of this distinctive composition. The Paloma Picasso woman is not a delicate waif nor is she an inaccessible ice queen. Mon Parfum is a smoldering beauty, with its masculine touches evoking the olfactory equivalent of a perfectly tailored tuxedo suit rather than a skintight dress. …

Chanel 28 La Pausa and Les Exclusifs : Fragrance Review

The most intriguing thing is that the elegant and graceful scent of iris possesses a woody, chalky note, which seems incongruous with its wistful violet softness. Just as a flaw makes a face memorable, this facet raises iris beyond merely pretty and into the realm of mesmerizing. In the same vein, Chanel 28 La Pausa, named after Coco Chanel’s villa on Roquebrune-Cap-Martin on the French Riviera, is a perfect tribute to iris. It captures all of its nuances, from the delicate floral overtones to the metallic darkness and woody silkiness. …

Annick Goutal Le Chevrefeuille : Fragrance Review

Green like unripe mirabelle plums, tart like lemon meringue and sheer like a silk scarf, Le Chèvrefeuille is one of those fragrances that makes me smile contentedly. It is the essence of everything serene and lighthearted, a fragrance that satisfies yearnings for those first mild days of spring. On the other hand, its lightness and the lack of sharpness associated with citrus makes it ideal for the warm days of summer. Among Annick Goutal single flower compositions (Néroli, Des Lys, Le Jasmin, Le Muguet and La Violette), which were created by perfumer Isabelle Doyen and Camille Goutal in 2002, Le Chèvrefeuille is undoubtedly my favourite, both for its effervescent personality and impressionistic rendition of honeysuckle. …

Agent Provocateur Maitresse : Perfume Review

Agent Provocateur Maîtresse, the latest release from the saucy British lingerie brand, brought to mind the stereotypical images of the 1980s—teased hair, electric blue eyeshadow and big perfume. In a sense, it is not very surprising. The original Agent Provocateur Eau de Parfum was a take on the lush floral chypres of the 1980s à la Paloma Picasso Mon Parfum and Estée Lauder Knowing. However, while Agent Provocateur EDP tapped into something indeed provocative, Maîtresse merely reminded me why some aspects of the 1980s will never bring out a bittersweet nostalgic sigh from me. …

Jean Paul Gaultier Fleur du Male : Fragrance Review

The presence of orange blossom in Jean Paul Gaultier Fleur du Mâle is no more unexpected for a masculine perfume than the presence of Pelé in a list of world’s greatest footballers. After all, the classical eau de cologne relied on the bright sparkle of neroli (steam distilled oil of bitter orange flowers) in order to provide a fresh accent. However, while masculine blends like Yves Saint Laurent Kouros Fraîcheur and Creed Néroli Sauvage rely upon bracing citrusy and woody notes to frame the sweetness of orange blossom, Fleur du Mâle takes this radiant and bright note into a completely different realm—ornate, sensual and languorous. …

L'Eau de Jatamansi by L'Artisan Parfumeur : Perfume Review

L’Artisan Parfumeur’s entry into the blossoming organic skincare market has resulted in Jatamansi, a line of body products based on the healing extract of the Himalayan nard plant. L’Eau de Jatamansi is a scented body mist, which is a part of the Jatamansi line. Opening up on a crisp brightness that alternates between the verdancy of fresh grass and the peppery warmth of sun parched herbs, L'Eau de Jatamansi never loses its subtle aura. …

Crazylibellule and The Poppies : Les Divines Alcoves Perfume Collection Review

I have previously shared my excitement at discovering a lovely collection from Crazylibellule and The Poppies that not only offered an interesting and humorous range of fragrances, but also made it available at a fantastic price of $16 for a lipstick shaped tube of solid perfume. While Shanghaijava took us on a journey through Asia with its aromas of coconut, musk, incense and orchids, the newest collection Les Divines Alcoves is all about love. On the whole, this collection does not disappoint. Out of seven fragrances, I loved four (Tout Oublier for  its beautiful iris accord , Aux Anges for evoking the radiance of Diorissimo, Amoureuse for charming me with its lush rose and Dans Tes Bras for its rich warmth), found one pretty (musky Presque Nue) and only two were completely lacking in distinction (Le Baiser and Toi Mon Prince.) The compositions are even more sophisticated and elegant than those from The Shanghaijava Collection, with just enough whimsical elements to lend the collection a lighthearted spirit. …

Parfums MDCI Enlevement au Serail / FK No 3 : Perfume Review

After first inhaling Enlèvement au Sérail from Parfums MDCI, I envisioned a slender figure wrapped in voluminous furs. The image was rendered in sepia tones, misty and soft, hinting at the tenderness of this classical composition. It immediately evokes the sumptous sensation of the grand French perfumes that makes me feel as if I am gliding across a mirrored ballroom dressed in a silk gown. When a fragrance makes one feel like a princess out of a Tolstoy novel, or perhaps, a Ballets Russes dancer, how can it be ignored?

Angels of Florence by Santa Maria Novella : Perfume Review

Had I not seen the label on the bottle, I would have assumed that Angels of Florence was a new flanker for Estée Lauder Beyond Paradise—the bright, fresh white floral. While Beyond Paradise is a fine fragrance on its own terms, it was disconcerting to discover the similarities with Santa Maria Novella’s newest fragrance (albeit, without the characteristic radiance of Beyond Paradise.) In my opinion, the very essence of niche should be its departure from the mainstream, but it seems that to a greater and greater extent many niche releases are merely copying best-sellers from department stores. By way of example, if you enjoyed the warm and voluptuous Armani Code for Her but felt compelled to spend more money, your wish could be fulfilled by NellyRodi Scentfactory Fleur d’Oranger and Le Labo Jasmin 17. Bond No 9 Nuit de Noho offers a niche version of Thierry Mugler Angel. Even an avant-garde line like Comme des Garçons has toned down its daring act of late. …

Juozas Statkevicius / Josef Statkus : Perfume Review

Attending Sunday mass has never been a part of my childhood, and perhaps it is for this reason that the church service has never lost its romantic appeal for me. Even the simple act of burning frankincense satisfies my longings for its mysterious darkness and serenity. As a perfume note, it possesses a remarkable complexity and depth. In fragrance, frankincense tends to add the same beguiling sobriety and austerity that I discovered when inhaling its scent inside churches. Given its ornate quality, the less complicated the treatment of incense, the more rewarding the result. In this vein, the eponymous fragrance from Lithuanian fashion designer Juozas Statkevičius (Josef Statkus) is a composition that is bound to sway those with a penchant for the dark and sonorous incantations of incense. ...

Balmain Vent Vert Through Years : Perfume Review

There are days in the winter when one can smell spring. It comes surreptitiously, even if the ground is still covered with snow and the sun is concealed by thick white clouds. Yet, the fragrance of spring is unmistakable—fresh, wet, and earthy, bearing that violet intensity that marks the desire of living beings to cast off winter’s slumber. Remarkably, this dissonance of spring is captured by perfumer Germaine Cellier in Vent Vert, the perfume created for Pierre Balmain in 1947. …

Vera Wang Truly Pink : Perfume Review

I made no secret of finding Vera Wang Princess not only puerile, but also unexciting. In this light, Truly Pink, the newest release, is a much more elegant composition—sheer, pretty rose on a woody base. It fully lives up to its name, conjuring visions of pink tulle and satin slippers. …

Diptyque L'Eau Trois : Fragrance Review

“The church, which stood in gloomy isolation at the outer edge of the village, was of age-blackened wood, overgrown with green moss, and surmounted by three conical cupolas. It was at once apparent that no service had been held in it for many a long year. Candles were now burning before almost every icon.” Nikolai Gogol, a Ukrainian-born Russian writer, paints such a vivid picture of the village church in his story Viy that as I continued to read, I could almost smell the decaying woods, the grey incense smoke and the peeling resinous varnish on the pillars. It was in Diptyque L’Eau Trois—notwithstanding the creators’ intent to capture the aroma of Northern Greece—that I have found the scent of that forsaken church, haunting and intoxicating. …

Iris Nobile by Acqua di Parma : Perfume Review

My recent exploration of Chanel Les Exclusifs and the love affair with 28 La Pausa prompted me to consider other irises outside of my beloved trinity: Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist, Chanel No 19 and Frédéric Malle Iris Poudre. Acqua di Parma Iris Nobile was created by perfumers Francis Kurkdjian and Françoise Caron of Quest in 2004. It is an unusual iris in that it does not smell of frozen roots like the other irises I admire. Its character is soft and floral, with a delicate sprinkling of delicate ornamentations. …

Rose Absolu by Yves Rocher : Fragrance Review

Some of my experiences with Yves Rocher have been rather disappointing— Pur Désir de Lavande was rather insipid, Gardenia and Lily were quite removed from the flowers that inspired them. In this light, I was not prepared for the loveliness of Rose Absolu. Not only is it an elegant rose with gourmand touches, but also a fragrance marked by the kind of quality that I miss in the latest prestige launches. Created by the talented perfumer Christine Nagel (Fendi Theorema, Lancôme Mille et Une Roses, Narciso Rodriguez for Her) in 2008, Rose Absolu from Secrets d’Essences will be a wonderful discovery for any rose lover.

Bois Oriental by Serge Lutens : Perfume Review

Though it is Serge Lutens at his classical best, Bois Oriental from the sumptuous Les Eaux Boisées range* did not immediately appeal to me. The elegant Bois de Violette and the luscious Bois et Fruits were the more likely choices, leaving Bois Oriental to languish ignored. Yet, Bois Oriental deserves its moment in the sun as well, and it turned out to be just as complex, opulent and seductive as the rest of Les Eaux Boisées. …

Etro Vetiver : Perfume Review

Among artisanal lines, Etro stands out for its innovative twists on classical themes. In a sense, it is the Victorian aesthetic turned rock-n-roll. Thus, Messe de Minuit is a blend of exoticism and peculiar familiarity—old books, mildewy stones and ecclesiastic incense motifs. In Royal Pavillion, the ornate opulence of floral and green notes conjuring the atmosphere of a green house is wrapped into a warm animalic breath. The brightness of citrusy notes in Shaal Nur is dimmed by resinous herbal notes and the truffled facet of opopanax. Although Vetiver (1989) is not as daring and unusual as other Etro fragrances, it is nevertheless compelling. The vetiver is layered with herbs and woods, accentuating the fresh hazelnut aspects of the note. …

Etro Messe de Minuit : Perfume Review

It would not be an overstatement to call Messe de Minuit the most arresting of Etro’s line. While it may not be the most approachable composition due to the musty touch of patchouli, malted warmth of honey and the aggressive sharpness of galbanum, the fragrance compels due to the harmonious blend of these diverse elements. There are no dramatic shifts between the vibrant citrusy tartness of the top notes and the honeyed musk of the base. Created in 1994 by Robertet’s Jacques Flori, Messe de Minuit strikes one somber note after another, allowing one to fall under its spell. …

Alexander McQueen Kingdom : Perfume Review

Whenever I hear that there are no creative fragrances in the mainstream market, I want to point to Kingdom (2003), a fascinating fragrance created by perfumer Jacques Cavallier for the enfant terrible of fashion, Alexander McQueen. The blatant sensuality of Kingdom mirrored the controversial and innovative approach to fashion developed by McQueen. Developed as a classical woody oriental composition—its luxurious dark woods cradled in the velvety foil of smoky resins a la Chanel Bois des Îles, Caron Nuit de Noël and Guerlain Samsara, Kingdom hides a raw and aggressive streak. The effect of this juxtaposition is exactly what makes grand French classics compelling—that reminder of human traces, of decay, of things that we try to hide. It is subtle enough to tease the senses without becoming repulsive, and yet, its presence is obvious. …