A Scent by Issey Miyake : Perfume Review

Only the travails of copyrighting a fragrance name can explain why Issey Miyake chose a nondescript a Scent by Issey Miyake to identify its most recent launch. Or perhaps the reason is really the “poetry of minimalism” mentioned in the press release. At any rate, a Scent by Issey Miyake disappointed me. Purportedly inspired by the smell of Japanese mountains, a Scent most strongly reminded me of Chanel Cristalle, albeit in its most attenuated form….

Hermes Cologne Trio : Fragrance Review

The refreshing crispness of classical cologne with its brilliant citrus-woods accord and the uncluttered simplicity of its composition can belie a mesmerizing richness. One only needs to experience Guerlain Eau de Cologne Imperiale or Annick Goutal Eau d’Hadrien to understand how alluring a cologne can be on a hot summer day. Or, for that matter, on a freezing winter morning when reminders of spring are so welcome. At the same time, even more interesting are modern interpretations seeking abstraction where classical tradition relied on nature. For this reason, Hermes Cologne Trio was an anticipated launch for me, including as it did the classical Eau d'Orange Verte as well as modern renditions such as Eau de Pamplemousse Rose and Eau de Gentiane Blanche.

Marc Jacobs Lola : Fragrance Review

Lola, the newest release by Marc Jacobs following his highly successful Daisy, was another surprising discovery of the season. Created by Calice Becker in collaboration with Yann Vasnier, the fragrance is an interesting study in contrasts. On the one hand, it is a girly pink cocktail of red fruit and warm musk, a contemporary refrain that is found in many successful (and not) new launches. Yet, to classify it in this manner is to underestimate the structure of this fragrance. Lola offers a number of surprising facets, hiding its retro glamour under an inviting and easygoing fruity-floral veil.

Christian Dior Escale a Pondichery : Perfume Review

Given that this summer has been rather chilly until the past couple of weeks, I have been wearing ambers and orientals rather than fresh colognes. For this reason, I was not in a rush to seek out the newest addition to the Dior “Voyage” collection, which debuted in 2008 with a light and fizzy Escale a Portofino. However, Escale à Pondichéry suits my current mood perfectly, for not only it has enough warmth to make its straightforward cologne structure enticing on a chilly summer day, but it evokes the memories of my Indian adventures. While my next trip is not until the winter, I am consoling myself with scents that remind me of India.

MAC Naked Honey and Africanimal : Fragrance Review

Recently MAC has launched two new limited edition fragrances in the Creations Hue range: Africanimal and Naked Honey. Prepared as I was to find them perfectly pleasant and well-done as most MAC scents, I was taken aback by the beauty of Naked Honey. It took me from rainy New York to the sun dappled garden of my childhood, to the linden lined alleys of Paris, to the warmth and languor of long summer days… How did Harry Fremont of Firmenich who created Naked Honey know exactly what my idea of a perfect summer smells like? I could wax poetic, but please smell Naked Honey and tell me if this opulent linden blossom and honey fragrance does not evoke the smell of sun on warm skin, the heady lushness of green foliage and the profusion of summer blossoms.

Christian Dior Escale a Portofino : Perfume Review

In sartorial terms, an effervescent citrus cologne is as versatile and timeless as a tailored suit or a little black dress. It is immediately appealing and effortlessly chic, while still having a striking presence. Yet, eventually all little black dresses start to look similar, and all colognes exhibit that familiar fresh burst followed by floral sweetness or woody dryness. As one knows all too well, familiarity breeds contempt. In this light, I have put the newest cologne offering, Christian Dior Escale à Portofino, to the test….

Lancome Cyclades : Perfume Review and On Duty-Free Shopping

Given the fact that flying is such a nuisance these days, I can do without olfactory ennui at duty-free shops. However, unless one chooses to stock up on the old favorites, the duty-free shelves offer little olfactory excitement. The choices range from uninspired to comical. By way of example, Dior and Givenchy seem to favor pale fruity-florals and lots of pronouns (Dior Me, Dior Me Not, My Givenchy, My Givenchy Dream). Bali in Kenzo’s inexplicably named 7:15am in Bali smells like a vodka cocktail. Then, I am led to conclude that the only thing that caused Azzaro to name their travel retail scent Jetlag was perhaps being in such a state indeed. On the other hand, what could be their excuse for Cockpit? …

Annick Goutal Les Orientalistes : Fragrance Review of Ambre Fetiche, Encens Flamboyant, Myrrhe Ardente

The deeper I delve into perfumery, the more often I pose the question, “why perfume?” to myself. Why do I write about perfume? Why is it that exploring this subject never fails to be exciting and fascinating? Perhaps, it is because scents provide a way to experience the world in a manner that cannot be replicated with any of our other senses. Recently, an illustration of this appeared in the guise of Annick Goutal Les Orientalistes, a trio of fragrances inspired by the classical oriental notes—amber (Ambre Fétiche,) myrrh (Myrrhe Ardente) and frankincense (Encens Flamboyant.) They offered me an inspiration to dream.

Serge Lutens Sarrasins : Perfume Review

White jasmine, black jasmine. New love, old flame. That is how I think of Sarrasins, the newest fragrance from Serge Lutens’s exclusive range, and À La Nuit, the 2000 launch. Given the deep purple color of Sarrasins, one is led to expect a dark and sonorous rendition of jasmine. However, nothing could be further from the truth—Sarrasins is radiant, almost see-through, from its initial burst of citrus and wintergreen notes to the dry, leathery base. By contrast, À La Nuit has a remarkable heft, given its high calorie oriental base of vanillic balsams and resins. ...

New Perfume Releases to Anticipate : 2008 and Beyond

It is now almost the end of May, and while it is too early to tally up the launches and pick favorites, I cannot resist making a list of upcoming fragrances that spark my curiosity. It is not a complete list of new launches, by any means, but simply a list I keep for myself of new perfumes that catch my eye for one reason or another. They may be coming from a brand I like, have an interesting story behind them or just seem like they could offer something different.

• NEW: Serge Lutens El Attarine--attar, everlasting flowers, Serge Lutens's Morocco... It sounds like a Lutens classic in the making. Exclusive collection.

• NEW: Serge Lutens Serge Noire --Another exciting Lutens to anticipate. Export collection.

• NEW: Tom Ford White Patchouli, Italian Cypress, Arabian Wood--White Patchouli is coming in September, and it is going to be a fragrance based around patchouli, a counterpart to Black Orchid. The notes include dark, smoky patchouli, peony, bergamot, jasmine, rose, coriander, ambrette seeds. Italian Cypress and Arabian Wood will be the new fragrances in the Private Blend Collection. They will commemorate the opening of Tom Ford boutiques in Milan and Kuwait.

• NEW: Prada Infusion for Men--a masculine counterpart to Infusion d'Iris. Features notes of neroli, iris pallida, vetiver, cedarwood, incense and benzoin. Sounds simply wonderful!