Christian Dior Escale a Portofino : Perfume Review

In sartorial terms, an effervescent citrus cologne is as versatile and timeless as a tailored suit or a little black dress. It is immediately appealing and effortlessly chic, while still having a striking presence. Yet, after a while all little black dresses start to look similar, and all colognes exhibit that familiar fresh burst followed by the floral sweetness or the woody dryness. As one knows all too well, familiarity breeds contempt. In this light, I have put the newest cologne offering, Christian Dior Escale à Portofino, to test….

Lancome Cyclades : Perfume Review and On Duty-Free Shopping

Given the fact that flying is such a nuisance these days, I can do without olfactory ennui at duty-free shops. However, unless one chooses to stock up on the old favorites, the duty-free shelves offer little olfactory excitement. The choices range from uninspired to comical. By way of example, Dior and Givenchy seem to favor pale fruity-florals and lots of pronouns (Dior Me, Dior Me Not, My Givenchy, My Givenchy Dream). Bali in Kenzo’s inexplicably named 7:15am in Bali smells like a vodka cocktail. Then, I am led to conclude that the only thing that caused Azzaro to name their travel retail scent Jetlag was perhaps being in such a state indeed. On the other hand, what could be their excuse for Cockpit? …

Annick Goutal Les Orientalistes : Fragrance Review of Ambre Fetiche, Encens Flamboyant, Myrrhe Ardente

The deeper I delve into perfumery, the more often I pose the question, “why perfume?” to myself. Why do I write about perfume? Why is it that exploring this subject never fails to be exciting and fascinating? Perhaps, it is because scents provide a way to experience the world in a manner that cannot be replicated with any of our other senses. Recently, an illustration of this appeared in the guise of Annick Goutal Les Orientalistes, a trio of fragrances inspired by the classical oriental notes—amber (Ambre Fétiche,) myrrh (Myrrhe Ardente) and frankincense (Encens Flamboyant.) They offered me an inspiration to dream.

Serge Lutens Sarrasins : Perfume Review

White jasmine, black jasmine. New love, old flame. That is how I think of Sarrasins, the newest fragrance from Serge Lutens’s exclusive range, and À La Nuit, the 2000 launch. Given the deep purple color of Sarrasins, one is led to expect a dark and sonorous rendition of jasmine. However, nothing could be further from the truth—Sarrasins is radiant, almost see-through, from its initial burst of citrus and wintergreen notes to the dry, leathery base. By contrast, À La Nuit has a remarkable heft, given its high calorie oriental base of vanillic balsams and resins. ...

New Perfume Releases to Anticipate : 2008 and Beyond

It is now almost the end of May, and while it is too early to tally up the launches and pick favorites, I cannot resist making a list of upcoming fragrances that spark my curiosity. It is not a complete list of new launches, by any means, but simply a list I keep for myself of new perfumes that catch my eye for one reason or another. They may be coming from a brand I like, have an interesting story behind them or just seem like they could offer something different.

• NEW: Serge Lutens El Attarine--attar, everlasting flowers, Serge Lutens's Morocco... It sounds like a Lutens classic in the making. Exclusive collection.

• NEW: Serge Lutens Serge Noire --Another exciting Lutens to anticipate. Export collection.

• NEW: Tom Ford White Patchouli, Italian Cypress, Arabian Wood--White Patchouli is coming in September, and it is going to be a fragrance based around patchouli, a counterpart to Black Orchid. The notes include dark, smoky patchouli, peony, bergamot, jasmine, rose, coriander, ambrette seeds. Italian Cypress and Arabian Wood will be the new fragrances in the Private Blend Collection. They will commemorate the opening of Tom Ford boutiques in Milan and Kuwait.

• NEW: Prada Infusion for Men--a masculine counterpart to Infusion d'Iris. Features notes of neroli, iris pallida, vetiver, cedarwood, incense and benzoin. Sounds simply wonderful!

Tom Ford Velvet Gardenia : Fragrance Review

Have you ever noticed how faces are much easier to recognize in caricatures when their features are exaggerated than in photographs? For this same reason Tom Ford Velvet Gardenia might offer the truest gardenia one can find in the perfume form. Certainly, there are plenty of fragrances that incorporate beautiful gardenia accords (Hermès Calèche, Dior Diorama, Estée Lauder Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia), but to smell Velvet Gardenia is to experience a flower magnified by several degrees—smooth, waxy petals, green leaves and woody stems, animalic, dark notes of its roots. Its scent is creamy and intoxicating, smoldering and airy, floral and balsamic. What seems at first like an improbable juxtaposition of effects soon unfolds into a complex gardenia story. ...

Guerlain Cruel Gardenia : Perfume Review

You would be hard-pressed to find a more devoted Guerlain lover than me. I also happen to adore white florals in all shapes and forms—jasmine, tuberose, seringa, gardenia, frangipani, magnolia. However, my first impression when I smelled Cruel Gardénia from the L’Art et la Matière collection was utter disappointment. Where is gardenia, I wondered? Sure, it flits through the top note, but the floral impression that lingers is that of orange blossom and ylang ylang wrapped in a cloud of hedione (airy and diffusive jasmine material). Nevertheless, it is very elegantly constructed, and I do not want to dismiss it altogether, even if I miss the intoxicating gardenia. …

Hermes Un Jardin Apres La Mousson : Perfume Review

The new Hermès fragrance Un Jardin Après La Mousson (Garden After Monsoon) was among my most anticipated launches this spring, simply because I loved the fact that Jean-Claude Ellena, Hermès' in-house perfumer, drew inspiration from Kerala, one of the most beautiful regions in India. Furthermore, my first stay in India coincided with the long awaited beginning of the monsoon. As the first few drops of rain fell on the dusty streets of New Delhi, the stifling dryness of the air was cleared, the dust settled and the stone facades of the grand Mogul mausoleums took on a mesmerizing sheen. I sat in the courtyard of my friend’s apartment building surrounded by the smell of wet jasmine and ate the most luscious mangoes I have tried in my entire life. It was pure bliss. On the other hand, the end to this season of never-ending and potentially destructive rains holds as much anticipation as its beginning. …

Guerlain Laurier Reglisse and Figue Iris : Aqua Allegoria Perfume Review

As much as I love the complex perfumes that are the olfactory equivalents of Tolstoy’s War and Peace, I am always looking forward to Guerlain’s Aqua Allegoria collection, which tends to feature much more lighthearted fare. The selection runs the gamut from ingenious Pamplemousse to lovely Herba Fresca to decidedly dull and un-kiwi like Tutti Kiwi. This year’s Laurier Réglisse and Figue Iris caught my eye with their unusual and potentially brilliant pairings—bay leaf and licorice, fig and iris. I felt as curious about experimenting with these ideas in the kitchen as about smelling them on my skin. …

Thierry Mugler A Travers le Miroir : Perfume Review

Smelling and dismissing one new launch after the next, I start to worry that I am becoming jaded. It is even more depressing when it comes to reviewing, because unless a strong emotion stirs me, it is difficult to find inspiration for writing during my morning train ride. I would rather catch up on my sleep. Thankfully, there do exist new fragrances that manage to awake me from my literal and figurative slumber. Since I smelled À Travers le Miroir from the new Thierry Mugler Miroir Miroir collection a couple of months ago, it has been on my mind. Therefore, I decided to return to it for a closer look. …

Chanel Sycomore : 1930 and 2008

def: vetiver -- frequently used in perfumery, vetiver oil is steam distilled from the rootlets of grass Vetiveria Zizanoides. It has a dark earthy-woody aroma, with a grapefruit bitterness and a touch of anise-like sweet spiciness.

The newest addition to Les Exclusifs range, Sycomore is advertised as inspired by the fragrance originally created in 1930. I have a bottle of the original, therefore I was curious to compare the two. I would describe the original Sycomore as closer in spirit to Bois des Iles (vetiver, sandalwood and soft aldehydes.) It played up its gamine features with a twist of tobacco and violet.  The new Sycomore eschews the obvious floral allusions. It is an elegant and pared down vetiver, which emphasizes the green hazelnut facet of the root. The embellishments are subtle, yet they serve to highlight the beauty of the raw material well. With hardly any retro references, Sycomore (2008) is a thoroughly modern fragrance. As far as I can tell, there are few, if any, allusions to the vintage. ...

Prada Infusion d'Iris : Perfume Review

"They were black when she was in shadow and dark blue in full daylight." I smell Infusion d’Iris, the latest fragrance from Prada, and Gustav Flaubert’s description of Emma Bovary’s eyes floats up in mind. Is it because I just finished re-reading Madame Bovary and the phrase is still fresh in my memory? Or is it because I find that Infusion d’Iris exhibits the marked diversity of nuances, much like the eyes of beautiful Emma? …

Kate by Kate Moss Perfume : Fragrance Review

Kate Moss is a personality that stands out in the sleek and gorgeous model milieu. She was the embodiment of the 1990s and its minimalism. She was the face of Calvin Klein. She took on Chanel as the Coco Mademoiselle cover girl. She had her share of controversies and successes. Her style is the most imitated of all models (and it can now be purchased at Barneys under her new clothing label). For those aspiring to more, there is now a fragrance by Moss, simply called Kate.

Chanel No 5 Eau Premiere : Perfume Review

I very much anticipated the launch of No.5 Eau Première. Granted, not everything from Chanel has enchanted me. I could live without Chance and the numerous masculine Allure flankers. Les Exclusifs could have possessed more tenacity. Yet, all of this notwithstanding, I am hard-pressed to point out another fragrance house (with the important and notable exception of Estée Lauder in the US) that pays so much attention to the actual contents of the fragrance flacons. The fruity jasmine, the sumptuous rose and the seductively creamy musk of No.5 Eau Première have the kind of richness and quality that seems to be more and more difficult to find elsewhere.

Robert Piguet Visa : Fragrance Review

Although Fracas and Bandit are the fragrances most firmly linked with Robert Piguet’s name, the perfumes credited to this house include a range of other memorably named creations: Calypso, Hirondelle, Mimo, Cattleya, Futur. Visa was created in 1947, its seductive and voluptuous form contrasting markedly with the restrained elegance of other fragrances launched during the same year – Christian Dior Miss Dior, Caron Farnesiana, Balenciaga Le Dix. ...

Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia by Estee Lauder : Perfume Review

In many ways, perfumery has to build upon its past—within every new and groundbreaking idea there is a kernel of tradition. Over the past few years, we have seen Guerlain, Chanel, Robert Piguet, and Lancôme opening their archives. Although Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia is not a re-issue of the classical Estée Lauder Private Collection introduced in 1973, its clear connection with the great Lauder legacy makes it an exciting launch. Whatever expectations I had of this fragrance, they were more than exceeded when I finally had a chance to try it….

Miller Harris Fleurs de Sel : Perfume Review

The love affair with chypre fragrances—those complex and intense harmonies of citrus, floral, woody, mossy and animalic notes—has always been tumultuous. If some families such as florals have an immediate and familiar appeal, abstract chypres require more patience in order to appreciate them. Yet, witnessing the revival of the family over the past few years leads me to conclude that we are once again in a chypre-infatuated decade. …

Spring Summer 2007 New Fragrance Releases

Every Friday, the perfume article packed issue of Women's Wear Daily lands on my desk. Following my usual habit, I jot down the fragrances to be launched and place an asterisk next to those that capture my attention. Below is the list of a few such fragrances (in no particular order.) I would like to know what launch you are anticipating.

Hermès Kelly Calèche (June 2007)
Floral leather created by perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena, Kelly Calèche sounds like a fragrance made just for me. I am almost afraid to try it, for the fear of being disappointed. The best description comes from WWD: "One of the first things I wanted to do when I entered Hermès was work with leather," said Ellena. He also kept in mind a passage from French author Jean Giono's "Jean le Bleu," in which the narrator speaks of his departed father, a cobbler, as "making soles in angel leather. ... Jean-Claude wanted to do a floral leather," explained Fulconis. To that end, Ellena combined notes of iris, mimosa, tuberose and climbing rose to create Kelly Calèche."

Tom Ford Private Blend Amber Absolute : Perfume Review

I knew that Amber Absolute was going to be my favourite from Tom Ford’s Private Blend when, after sampling all twelve fragrances, it stood out in my mind. Returning to my samples again and again, I came to admire two fragrances above all--Amber Absolute and Oud Wood . While the latter is an interesting polished and transparent take on oud, the former is a voluptuous and resinous composition. One can almost feel the heft and the slightly rough texture of raw silk when smelling this dramatic amber. …

Guerlain Oud Sensuel and Garden Sensuel : Perfume Oils Review

“Fill the tent with a variety of different perfumes: ambergris, musk and all sorts of scents, such as rose, orange flowers, jonquils, jasmine, hyacinth, carnation and other plants. This done, have placed there several gold censers filled with green aloes, ambergris, naddah and such like.”
from the 15th century Arab book The Perfumed Garden of Sensual Delight.*

The house of Guerlain has been enchanted with the East for much of its history, from Persian Bouquet (1840), Shalimar (1925) to Samsara (1989). In this light, it is not surprising to discover that Garden Sensuel and Oud Sensuel Huiles de Parfum released this spring are inspired by the perfume oil tradition of the Middle and Far East. The writings of Herodotus, Theophrastus, Pliny as well as the Arabian Nights Tales attest to the opulence and sophistication of Middle Eastern perfumery. If the 18th court of Louis XV was known as le cour parfumée (perfumed court), then that of Baghdad’s Abbasid Caliphs deserved this title more than 10 centuries earlier. …

Chanel No 18 : Perfume Review

Chanel No 18 is startling. Unctuous and green at first, reminiscent of olive oil and green tea leaves, it becomes warm and floral, separating into soft billowing layers of fruity rose and powdery musk. The striking simplicity of this composition belies its inherent loveliness. It is gentle without becoming meek, delicate without appearing pale and feminine without being clichéd. …

Guerlain Iris Ganache : Perfume Review

Ganache is a mixture of chocolate and cream, which is blended until a soft, melting and decadently rich texture is attained. For the newest addition to Guerlain’s L'Art et la Matiere collection, which already includes Angélique Noire, Bois d’Arménie, Rose Barbare, and Cuir Beluga, perfumer Thierry Wasser took the richness of ganache as inspiration for an iris scent. If you are a regular visitor to Bois de Jasmin’s pages, you already know of my fascination with the iris note. I find the scent derived from iris roots quite beguiling—it is half way between flower and root, vegetal matter and mineral dust. Discovering Iris Ganache was quite an interesting experience. It proved that iris, when made overly sweet, can lose its elegant character and assume quite a flamboyant demeanour. …

Chanel 31, rue Cambon : Perfume Review

The melancholy aura and retro elegance of 31, rue Cambon are fascinating, given its decidedly modern interpretation. Experiencing it is like flipping through the pages of an old family album, glancing at the photographs of people in Edwardian outfits and flapper dresses only to notice a striking resemblance between their features and your own. While 31, rue Cambon is a chypre (a fragrance based on the interplay of citrusy, floral, woody, mossy, ambery/musky notes à la Guerlain Mitsouko and Rochas Femme), this chypre possesses a certain delicate and serene quality. 31, rue Cambon is not a fragrance that seduces, but rather it enchants softly. …

Chanel 28 La Pausa and Les Exclusifs : Fragrance Review

The most intriguing thing is that the elegant and graceful scent of iris possesses a woody, chalky note, which seems incongruous with its wistful violet softness. Just as a flaw makes a face memorable, this facet raises iris beyond merely pretty and into the realm of mesmerizing. In the same vein, Chanel 28 La Pausa, named after Coco Chanel’s villa on Roquebrune-Cap-Martin on the French Riviera, is a perfect tribute to iris. It captures all of its nuances, from the delicate floral overtones to the metallic darkness and woody silkiness. …

Agent Provocateur Maitresse : Perfume Review

Agent Provocateur Maîtresse, the latest release from the saucy British lingerie brand, brought to mind the stereotypical images of the 1980s—teased hair, electric blue eyeshadow and big perfume. In a sense, it is not very surprising. The original Agent Provocateur Eau de Parfum was a take on the lush floral chypres of the 1980s à la Paloma Picasso Mon Parfum and Estée Lauder Knowing. However, while Agent Provocateur EDP tapped into something indeed provocative, Maîtresse merely reminded me why some aspects of the 1980s will never bring out a bittersweet nostalgic sigh from me. …

Jean Paul Gaultier Fleur du Male : Fragrance Review

The presence of orange blossom in Jean Paul Gaultier Fleur du Mâle is no more unexpected for a masculine perfume than the presence of Pelé in a list of world’s greatest footballers. After all, the classical eau de cologne relied on the bright sparkle of neroli (steam distilled oil of bitter orange flowers) in order to provide a fresh accent. However, while masculine blends like Yves Saint Laurent Kouros Fraîcheur and Creed Néroli Sauvage rely upon bracing citrusy and woody notes to frame the sweetness of orange blossom, Fleur du Mâle takes this radiant and bright note into a completely different realm—ornate, sensual and languorous. …

L'Eau de Jatamansi by L'Artisan Parfumeur : Perfume Review

L’Artisan Parfumeur’s entry into the blossoming organic skincare market has resulted in Jatamansi, a line of body products based on the healing extract of the Himalayan nard plant. L’Eau de Jatamansi is a scented body mist, which is a part of the Jatamansi line. Opening up on a crisp brightness that alternates between the verdancy of fresh grass and the peppery warmth of sun parched herbs, L'Eau de Jatamansi never loses its subtle aura. …

Crazylibellule and The Poppies : Les Divines Alcoves Perfume Collection Review

I have previously shared my excitement at discovering a lovely collection from Crazylibellule and The Poppies that not only offered an interesting and humorous range of fragrances, but also made it available at a fantastic price of $16 for a lipstick shaped tube of solid perfume. While Shanghaijava took us on a journey through Asia with its aromas of coconut, musk, incense and orchids, the newest collection Les Divines Alcoves is all about love. On the whole, this collection does not disappoint. Out of seven fragrances, I loved four (Tout Oublier for  its beautiful iris accord , Aux Anges for evoking the radiance of Diorissimo, Amoureuse for charming me with its lush rose and Dans Tes Bras for its rich warmth), found one pretty (musky Presque Nue) and only two were completely lacking in distinction (Le Baiser and Toi Mon Prince.) The compositions are even more sophisticated and elegant than those from The Shanghaijava Collection, with just enough whimsical elements to lend the collection a lighthearted spirit. …

Parfums MDCI Enlevement au Serail / FK No 3 : Perfume Review

After first inhaling Enlèvement au Sérail from Parfums MDCI, I envisioned a slender figure wrapped in voluminous furs. The image was rendered in sepia tones, misty and soft, hinting at the tenderness of this classical composition. It immediately evokes the sumptous sensation of the grand French perfumes that makes me feel as if I am gliding across a mirrored ballroom dressed in a silk gown. When a fragrance makes one feel like a princess out of a Tolstoy novel, or perhaps, a Ballets Russes dancer, how can it be ignored?

Angels of Florence by Santa Maria Novella : Perfume Review

Had I not seen the label on the bottle, I would have assumed that Angels of Florence was a new flanker for Estée Lauder Beyond Paradise—the bright, fresh white floral. While Beyond Paradise is a fine fragrance on its own terms, it was disconcerting to discover the similarities with Santa Maria Novella’s newest fragrance (albeit, without the characteristic radiance of Beyond Paradise.) In my opinion, the very essence of niche should be its departure from the mainstream, but it seems that to a greater and greater extent many niche releases are merely copying best-sellers from department stores. By way of example, if you enjoyed the warm and voluptuous Armani Code for Her but felt compelled to spend more money, your wish could be fulfilled by NellyRodi Scentfactory Fleur d’Oranger and Le Labo Jasmin 17. Bond No 9 Nuit de Noho offers a niche version of Thierry Mugler Angel. Even an avant-garde line like Comme des Garçons has toned down its daring act of late. …

Juozas Statkevicius / Josef Statkus : Perfume Review

Attending Sunday mass has never been a part of my childhood, and perhaps it is for this reason that the church service has never lost its romantic appeal for me. Even the simple act of burning frankincense satisfies my longings for its mysterious darkness and serenity. As a perfume note, it possesses a remarkable complexity and depth. In fragrance, frankincense tends to add the same beguiling sobriety and austerity that I discovered when inhaling its scent inside churches. Given its ornate quality, the less complicated the treatment of incense, the more rewarding the result. In this vein, the eponymous fragrance from Lithuanian fashion designer Juozas Statkevičius (Josef Statkus) is a composition that is bound to sway those with a penchant for the dark and sonorous incantations of incense. ...

Vera Wang Truly Pink : Perfume Review

I made no secret of finding Vera Wang Princess not only puerile, but also unexciting. In this light, Truly Pink, the newest release, is a much more elegant composition—sheer, pretty rose on a woody base. It fully lives up to its name, conjuring visions of pink tulle and satin slippers. …

Rose Absolu by Yves Rocher : Fragrance Review

Some of my experiences with Yves Rocher have been rather disappointing— Pur Désir de Lavande was rather insipid, Gardenia and Lily were quite removed from the flowers that inspired them. In this light, I was not prepared for the loveliness of Rose Absolu. Not only is it an elegant rose with gourmand touches, but also a fragrance marked by the kind of quality that I miss in the latest prestige launches. Created by the talented perfumer Christine Nagel (Fendi Theorema, Lancôme Mille et Une Roses, Narciso Rodriguez for Her) in 2008, Rose Absolu from Secrets d’Essences will be a wonderful discovery for any rose lover.

Le Labo Aldehyde 44 : Fragrance Review

Aldehydes (particularly the aliphatic aldehydes that captivated Chanel’s perfumer Ernest Beaux) are among the most fascinating perfume ingredients. While being harsh and sharp on their own, the effect they can create is quite extraordinary. The crispness of starched linen, the fizz of champagne, the soft glow of morning light… Likewise, the newest fragrance from Le Labo, Aldehyde 44 relies on the sleight of hand magic of aldehydes. Although initially it showers one with snowflakes of metallic powder, the composition warms up and melts like golden honey on the skin. …

Guerlain Insolence : Fragrance Review

Insolence is a curious study of contrasts. Upon the first inhale, the fragrance bursts into shades of Barbie doll pink, which would no doubt surprise a die-hard Guerlain lover. However, after a wild strawberry tinged 15 minutes, the composition pirouettes into an elegant heart dominated by violet, which rests on a creamy base of musk and woods. Initially, the nail polish remover sharpness of the top notes proved to be quite distracting, preventing me from making up my mind on Insolence. And yet, just when I thought that I had figured it out, Insolence managed to present an interesting facet. It revealed its Guerlain heart when given a fair trial. …

Serge Lutens Rousse : Fragrance Review

Lipstick and candied lady apples were the first associations that Rousse, the newest Serge Lutens’s fragrance, brought to my mind. One was conjured by the powdery violet note, the other by the intensely sweet and caramelized wood. Although I loved Chypre Rouge and Mandarine-Mandarin, Rousse was somewhat of a let down. It possesses neither the distinctive presence of Lutens’s fragrances like Iris Silver Mist and Ambre Sultan nor the classical elegance that marks Rose de Nuit and Chêne. It is simply a pleasant scent, but then again, the world is full of them. From Serge Lutens, I expected nothing but breathtaking, even if not conventionally pretty. …

Estee Lauder Beautiful Love : Perfume Review

Though I normally look at flankers with disdain expecting yet another bland variation, the sequels to the classical Estée Lauder fragrances have been quite lovely. Youth Dew Amber Nude offered an interesting twist on the oriental ambery theme of the original Youth Dew. Pure White Linen is a crisp, musky veil, in contrast to the richer 1978 classic, White Linen. Beautiful Love is a modern take on Beautiful, a lush white floral underpinned by woods and iris. …

Putain des Palaces by Etat Libre d'Orange : Perfume Review

There is a striking dissonance between the vulgarity implied by the name, Putain des Palaces (Hotel Slut), and the elegant character of the fragrance itself. Perhaps it’s just me, but names that sound as if they were jotted down by a bunch of teenage boys after a night of drinking do not entice me. On the other hand, they do not repulse me either, as the only thing worth judging the perfume on is its scent. And yet, Putain des Palaces is a beauty, hinting at flowers foiled by soft leathery notes. If Sécrétions Magnifiques is one of the most unusual and innovative compositions from Etat Libre d’Orange and Jasmin et Tabac is the most edgy, Putain des Palaces is undoubtedly the most polished and seductive. ...

Kylie Minogue Darling : Perfume Review

Kylie Minogue Darling, the debut fragrance from the Australian pop diva, is the latest entrant onto the celebrity perfume scene. Moreover, in the short time that it has been out, according to some sources, it has managed to become the top selling scent in the UK. In other words, Posh Spice beware! Although at one point I defended celebrity fragrances, I have grown bored of the numerous neon-pink, fruity and girly offerings that are lavished upon us by the celebrity fragrance market. Being quite pleasantly surprised by Hilary Duff’s With Love…, I decided to seek out Darling. After all, it was created by Thierry Wasser of Firmenich, the perfumer who is responsible for several interesting compositions such as Calvin Klein Truth and Christian Dior Addict. ...

Secretions Magnifiques by Etat Libre d'Orange : Perfume Review

Whether you love or hate Sécrétions Magnifiques, one thing is true—it cannot leave you indifferent. A composition that blends the accords of milk and blood, it is certainly not a crowd pleaser, nor a fragrance you would wear on a first date (unless your intentions do not go beyond that one night.) This is not because Sécrétions Magnifiques is a repellent scent, but because the message it sends forth is one of raw power. Its potent sensuality makes it both fascinating and challenging. ...

Jasmin et Cigarette / Jasmin et Tabac by Etat Libre d'Orange : Perfume Review

Cutting the banana jam lusciousness of jasmine with the smoky darkness of tobacco is a genius idea. The result is not the fragile whiteness of flower petals, but the leathery richness of cured tea leaves. Perhaps, for this reason, Jasmin et Cigarette (now called Jasmin et Tabac) created by Givaudan perfumer Antoine Maisondieu for Etat Libre d’Orange is one of my favourite fragrances from the line. It is quite unpredictable and thus rather surprising....

Etat Libre d'Orange Line Review

2006 has seen an explosion of niche/artisanal lines, from Parfumerie Generale to Le Labo. Niche is a rather nebulous term, which sometimes is taken to mean quality and originality, although in reality, it has more to do with the limitations of distribution. As a result, only a few offerings from the new crop of niche can rival Serge Lutens, Annick Goutal and Frédéric Malle, the quintessential niche houses that do not cut corners on raw materials and innovation. Nevertheless, the daring spirit of niche founders fuses a dose of excitement into the perfume landscape dominated by safe choices from the big houses....

The Different Company Garden Trio : Perfume Review

The garden inspired trio from The Different Company promised to be airy and subtle. I was envisioning fragrances that combined the light and elegant touch of Celine Ellena as exemplified by Sel de Vetiver and the spicy indolic radiance of Jasmin de Nuit. In many ways, my expectations were fulfilled as the fragrances do recall the refined quality of the preceding compositions without being overly delicate. At the same time, the more assertive touches are rendered as far too sharp against the more tame accords. While some of the scents are pretty, on the whole, they feel neither memorable nor original. At most, they come across as interesting ideas, rather than finished arrangements. …

Thierry Mugler Le Parfum Coffret : Perfume Review

Although the end of 2006 is still 2 months away, I anticipate Thierry Mugler’s Le Parfum coffret being the highlight of this perfume year for me. Fragrance exerts its power when it inspires dreams, stretches reality and allows one a glimpse into a world of fantasy. Ultimately, it is the easiest way to add beauty to the everyday routine. In this regard, fragrance does not have to be narrowly defined as liquid in a bottle, but can also include the aromas experienced when making a cup of coffee in the morning, walking past a freshly mown lawn, biting into a hot pastry, or enjoying a glass of wine with friends.

Le Parfum coffret offers artistic interpretations of scenes from the bestseller by Patrick Süskind, “Perfume: The Story of A Murderer”, the story of genius perfumer Jean-Baptiste Grenouille, who seeks to create the ultimate perfume amid the malodourous streets of France in the 18th century. However, Thierry Mugler’s coffret is even more than this—it is a reflection upon the history of perfumery, the essence of art in perfumery and the perfumer’s role. It offers a fascinating journey, the magic of which does not fade even after repeated exploration. ...

Crazylibellule and The Poppies : Shanghaijava Collection Review

There is nothing better than to encounter a fragrance line that combines interesting scents with a sense of humour. Crazylibellule & The Poppies is the fragrance line established by Isabelle Masson-Mandonnaud, the founder of Shop8 (which was renamed Sephora after being sold to LVMH). In collaboration with the perfumers of Givaudan, Masson-Mandonnaud has created a range of solid fragrances, priced democratically at $16 each and available in thematic sets. The Shanghaijava Collection includes 7 fragrances, which explore different ideas, from woods to flowers, and present rather fun and unexpected combinations. Encens Mystic takes one into the church during an evening mass. Ginger & Coconut teases with its mouthwatering coconut chutney scent. ...

Donna Karan Gold : Perfume Review

Among the prestige releases (i.e. those that lie between niche and mass market), Donna Karan never fails to capture my attention with imaginative and elegant compositions. Even the fruity-floral idea of Be Delicious was rendered in such an unexpected manner that I cannot fail to admire it. What could have been a sweet and pretty apple is instead an intensely green violet leaf composition suggesting a vision of a crisp fruit. Although miles away from the sparkling vibrancy of Be Delicious and the seductive darkness of Black Cashmere, Gold nevertheless maintains a sleek urban image that marks the Donna Karan fashion line as well as the fragrance range. ...

Tom Ford Black Orchid : Fragrance Review

The promise of beguiling black orchid scent, the suggestion of classical glamour, the re