Serge Noire by Serge Lutens: New Fragrance Release

In addition to El Attarine, Serge Lutens will issue Serge Noire in July 2008, a fragrance for the export collection. Serge Noire. Serge is a type of twill fabric (in fact, French word serge is derived from Latin serica, itself from Greek σηρικος (serikos), meaning "silken",) the finest variety of which was used for delicate linings, while the rougher weave was used for military uniforms.

The press release describes the idea behind Serge Noire in these poetic terms: "The ether of ashes... A phoenix, the mythical bird of legend burns at the height of its splendour before emerging triumphant, reborn from the ashes in a choreography of flame, conjuring the shapes of yesterday in a dance of ashes. The swirls of oriental grey enrich the twilight with depth and intensity while windswept memories hint at the beauty of transformation. An ode to everlasting beauty under cover of night's rich plumage."

From Serge Lutens press release.

Serge Lutens El Attarine : New Perfume Release

The fans of Serge Lutens will be excited to hear the news that two new fragrances are about to join the collection: El Attarine and Serge Noire. The exclusive range will see the debut of El Attarine Eau de Parfum, which is described in the following manner in the press release:

"In Arab countries, 'attarin' means sweet-smelling, and refers to everything within the realm of the 'atar': fragrance, heart, flavour and essence.

There is no distinction between the olfactory and the gustatory, until the moment when you decide whether to taste or smell. ...

Lancome Magnifique : New Fragrance Launch

Last night, at the Grand Palais in Paris , Lancôme presented Magnifique, its newest fragrance which olfactively interprets the color red. Anne Hathaway is Lancôme's newest ambassador, who will be featured in the advertising campaign. The fragrance, a spicy woody floral, was created by Firmenich perfumers Olivier Cresp and Jacques Cavallier. As WWD reported this morning, "'The challenge was to work on wood [notes]," said Cresp, explaining the women's fragrance market has few woody juices. While he and Cavalllier were in India they came upon nagarmota, a plant giving iff a woody odor. They liked it so much, they opted to use nagarmota essential oil in Magnifique." Other notes include saffron essence, cumin, Bulgarian rose essence, Mai de Grasse rose absolute, jasmine, Australian sandalwood essence and a vetiver note.

Magnifique will launch in August in the US (where it will be exclusive to Bloomingdale's at first) and in September elsewhere.  India, roses, red... I am adding this launch to the list of new fragrances to anticipate!

FiFi 2008 Winners Announced

The winners of 2008 have been announced. As The Fragrance Foundation commented, "On Tuesday evening, the 36th Annual FiFi® Awards were hosted by The Fragrance Foundation at the Park Avenue Armory in New York City. The stars were out as notable presenters Zac Posen, Salt-N-Pepa, Danity Kane, Alyson Hannigan, Cynthia Rowley, and Bernadette Peters took the stage to honor the industry’s luminaries with the coveted FiFi ® Awards trophy."

Hall of Fame Award Winner: Vera Wang

FRAGRANCE HALL OF FAME
Annick Goutal Eau d’Hadrien – Gary Farn, Ltd.

FRAGRANCE OF THE YEAR – WOMEN’S LUXE
Daisy Marc Jacobs – Coty Prestige

FRAGRANCE OF THE YEAR – MEN’S LUXE
Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue Pour Homme – P&G Prestige Products, Inc.

FRAGRANCE OF THE YEAR – WOMEN’S NOUVEAU NICHE
Prada Infusion d’Iris – Puig Beauty & Fashion Group

FRAGRANCE OF THE YEAR – MEN’S NOUVEAU NICHE
Armani Privé Vetiver Babylone – Giorgio Armani Beauty

Audrey Tautou New Face of Chanel No 5 : Perfume News

It is now official—Audrey Tautou is going to be the new face for Chanel No 5. Jean-Pierre Jeunet will direct the next No.5 advertising film, which will be the third collaboration between Tautou and Jeunet (she has starred in his "Amelie" and "The Long Engagement.”) The film will be released in 2009.

I adore Audrey Tautou, and I look forward to seeing the new marketing campaign, but I still wonder how Amelie will manage to evoke the spirit of Coco. What are your thoughts?

Photo credit: © Emanuele Scorcelletti for CHANEL

Guerlain Figue Iris, Laurier Reglisse, Cruel Gardenia : New Fragrance Launches

After discussing the elusive scent of figs yesterday, I was surprised to open my issue of Cosmetic World and discover a mention of an interesting new launch from Guerlain.  Figue-Iris was created by Jean-Paul Guerlain in collaboration with Sylvaine Delacourte, Guerlain's creative director. As Ms. Delacourte described in the article, "Today, fig is very well known and popular... I wanted to contrast it with something very chic." Figue-Iris combines the green freshness of fig with warm, powdery iris.

Clare Viola Jewelry and L'Artisan Event : Jewelry for Scents

Having seen the Parisian designer Clare Viola's jewelry before, I feel compelled to quote the English novelist George Eliot, "These gems have life in them: their colors speak, say what words fail of." L'Artisan Parfumeur shall explore the intrinsic and emotional link between being adorned by jewel and by perfume during their event "Jewelry for Scents."

"Each piece plays with textures, light, colors and shapes to create a unique emotion. Many pieces in the collection were inspired by such L’Artisan classics as La Chasse Aux Papillons, Mure et Musc, Timbuktu , Dzing! and Voleur de Roses. Claire Viola herself will be present to talk about her inspirations and designs. Join us this Friday, November 28, at the flagship L’Artisan boutique in New York , 1110 Madison Ave , from 10am to 7pm" (from L'Artisan newsletter.)

Clare Viola website offers a glimpse of her gorgeous pieces, such as Kings Valley from Precious Wood collection, which is my coveted gem. Pictured above is Opera Garnier, from Neck Poetry collection.

The 8th Annual Basenotes Awards : Voting Begins

It is the time for the 8th Annual Basenotes Awards recognizing the best of the best in various categories: best fragrance, best designer fragrance, best niche fragrance, best celebrity fragrance, best fragrance blog and much more. One lucky voter will win a $250 shopping spree from Fragrancenet, the sponsor of this year's awards.

For the results of the 7th Annual Basenotes Awards, please see Basenotes.

Fresh Cannabis Rose : New Fragrance

The scent of forbidden is always tempting and intriguing. Fresh is about to present its second fragrnace on the cannabis theme--Cannabis Rose, which is a feminine counterpart to the masculine-unisex Cannabis Santal (pictured). The fragrance is developed by Robertet perfumers, and it features notes of Bulgarian rose, pomegranate floer, bergamot; jasmine, cannabis accord, dark chocolate; white musk, patchouli, oolong tea.

Cannabis Rose will debut in February, exclusive to Fresh stores, before being launched at Barneys, Neiman Marcus, Saks 5th Avenue, Sephora and Blue Mercury in April.

Brin de Reglisse : New Hermessence Fragrance

Hermessence range is soon to be joined by Brin de Réglisse. It is a 7th fragrance in the line, which already includes Rose Ikebana, Poivre Samarcande, Ambre Narguilé, Osmanthe Yunnan, and Paprika Brasil. While the name means "a blade of licorice" (as in "a blade of grass", a small quantity), the composition was inspired by lavender. In the interview the perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena gave to L'Express, he described how he wanted his lavender to be intense and dry, like the lavender one smells in the South of France, when the strong cold wind (mistral) blows through the area in June. His idea was to streamline lavender and render it as a "clean line." As he concludes, "Nothing is more complex than simplicity." Thanks to Paola for the link.

Photo from Moosey's Country Garden, a beautiful website about gardening.

Hermes Caleche Fleurs de Mediterranee : Perfume News

Neiman Marcus is now featuring the limited edition fragrance by Hermès, Calèche Fleurs de Méditerranée. Originally created in 2003 by Jean-Claude Ellena, Calèche Fleurs de Méditerranée is inspired by the Mediterranean gardens and their scents--rose, jasmine, mimosa. The fragrance, airy and luminous, is based on the notes of Moroccan mimosa, Turkish rosa damascena, Egyptian jasmine, with the additional notes of beeswax and heliotrope. It is very much in the elegant and streamlined Ellena style. Only 2500 bottles of Soie de Parfum will be available exclusively at Neiman Marcus.

Moreover, Parfum-Echecs reports that Un Brin de Réglisse, a composition based on the notes of licorice, will join the Hermessence range, which already includes Rose Ikebana, Poivre Samarcande, Ambre Narguilé, Osmanthe Yunnan, and Paprika Brasil.

Photo from Osmoz.

From Rallet No1 to Chanel No5 ... : Perfumer & Flavorist Article

“The story of Chanel No 5 begins in Moscow in 1912 with perfumer Ernest Beaux’s studies of the aldehyde used in Houbigant’s Quelques Fleurs. It continues in La Bocca and Cannes, France, and then is almost derailed by competition from an unlikely source,” begins the article From Rallet No1 to Chanel No5 versus Mademoiselle Chanel No1 by Philip Kraft, Christine Ledard and Philip Goutell.

Published in October issue of Perfumer & Flavorist, it presents a fascinating account of the birth of Chanel No5. One can learn why Beaux was interested in aldehydes and how Coco Chanel decided to launch her own line of fragrances (breaking the agreement with Pierre Wertheimer of Parfums Chanel) during the WWII. Moreover, the piece offers the reconstituted formulas for Rallet No1 parfum and eau de toilette as well as mysterious Mademoiselle Chanel No1. Available for purchase from the Perfumer & Flavorist website.

I have to mention my own small involvement in this piece, which was consisted of providing some historical materials as well as a sample of Rallet No1 from my personal bottle. I have long treasured this gem, and I was glad to finally break open the seal for the purposes of analysis. It is certainly great to see it on the P&F pages.

Flavours and Fragrances 2007 : Excerpts from Program

As the Flavours and Fragrances 2007 Conference brochure states, "The Osmotheque, the International Conservatory of Perfumes, was launched in 1990. Its vocation is to put together an amazing collection of 1700 perfumes (400 of them almost forgotten fragrances: jewels of perfumery). Most of them are reformulated as closely as possible to the originals by «Osmothecaires», famous perfumers such as Jean Kerléo... As one of the most relevant «Osmothecaires», Patricia de Nicolaï, herself also manager of Parfums de Nicolai, will be happy to show you the most famous perfumes which have been keyed by novel synthetic materials at their time. These important creations include: ‘Fougère Royale’ of Houbigant, ‘Rose Jacqueminot’ of Coty, ‘Trèfle Incarnat’ of Piver… and many many more."

"The Influence of Synthetic Materials on the History of Perfumery –A Smelling Trip into the Past" is one of the presentations during the conference which will take place on 24-26 September, 2007 at Imperial College in London.

Coco Mademoiselle : New Parfum Versions

Elegance is one of Chanel's hallmarks, and the new packaging donned by Coco Mademoiselle illustrates this perfectly. 7.5 ml pearlized white purse-size flacon will contain the parfum version, while the sleek gold-and-white compact is intended for the limited-edition solid perfume. Lacking the sharpness of the EDT and the EDP versions of Coco Mademoiselle, the parfum makes me appreciate its luscious rose and peach set against the backdrop of patchouli and transparent mosses much more. Even if it might not sway those who are not Coco Mademoiselle fans, the richer concentration is undeniably striking. If you have tried the solid perfume, please comment. I am curious to know who it compares to the original. Although the non-alcoholic versions of fragrances are rarely produced these days, I find the idea of wearing solid perfume very appealing given its retro spirit.

The parfum (7.5ml) is priced at $100.00, while the solid perfume (8 g) is at $120.00. Available from Neiman Marcus, Saks 5th Avenue as well as directly from Chanel.com.

Francis Kurkdjian, Jean-Michel Duriez, Maurice Roucel : Their Fantasy Fragrances

"I would imagine a fragrance that evokes her inner personality, her fragility, her quest for perfection and her sense of no compromise, the Absolute. ... My vision would be a floral bouquet fragrance based on a tuberose accord, with a soft, spicy trail of fresh clove buds and green cinnamon bark that wraps your body and soul, the same way Maria Callas's voice attracts you and gives you uncontrollable emotions,"  says Francis Kurkdjian in response to Marian Bendeth's question about a custom fragrance for his favourite historical personage. Bendeth also interviews Christophe Laudamiel, Jean-Michel Duriez, and Maurice Roucel, all of whom give fascinating answers to this interesting question.

Read the article written by Marian Bendeth in Canada's National Post (the layout of the piece is confusing due to the lack of a proper by-line. The first part of the article written by Iris Benaroia is a celebrity fragrance survey. To find the article I referenced above, simply scroll to the middle and start reading the part titled "Weekend Post.") Thanks to Marian and Tatiana for the link!

Frederic Malle Outrageous : New Fragrance

Frédéric Malle has always called perfumer Sophia Grojsman a mother of modern perfumery, and at last, he had a chance to collaborate with her. His 16th fragrance, Outrageous is launched under Frédéric Malle's label for Barney's New York Co-op (see the photos from Outrageous launch on Getty Images). As Cosmetic World (vol xliii, no 31) reports, Malle noted that he "wanted an adrogynous, super sexy scent, something like a good pair of jeans." Outrageous includes notes of orange blossom, Caipirinha (lime, green notes, mint), clean laundry, green apple, amber and cedarwood. Finally, as Malle sums his project, "I dream of new molecules bringing scents that no one has ever smelled."

Outrageous will be sold exclusively at Barneys NY Co-op stores across the country starting in October. It will be priced at $110.00 for 3.4 oz (via Cosmetic World.)

Ethical Disclosure: Outrageous is made by IFF.

Angel La Part des Anges : Fragrance News from Thierry Mugler

Taking page from the vintage principle, Thierry Mugler Angel shall receive a new treatment. As the press release explains, Angel La Part des Anges "is macerated in a cherry wood cask for a more subtle fragrance. In this experiment, the Perfume Extract comes into contact with elements that are usually incompatible in the process of making a perfume: air and time. The wood allows the Perfume Extract to “breathe” and with the air and the passing of days, it is gradually transformed into the famous “part” or “share” which delights the Angels. And as with Eaux-de-vie, time reduces the volume to an Extract whose fragrance transcends the original."

The Swarowski crystal decorated .33oz bottle ($220) will be available in November 2007 at Nordstrom, Neiman Marcus, Saks5thAvenue and Bloomingdales.

Flavours and Fragrances 2007 : Special Event Conference

"Smell and Taste – the chemical senses. They carry meaning to perceive and evaluate reality, but also evoke memories, feelings, and desires, and the power of olfactory sensations seems almost magical to many of us. The chemistry behind these, however, is no mystery."

Thus is introduced the conference which will take place on 24-26 September, 2007 at Imperial College in London. The topics of this event which is open to researchers, industry professionals, journalists as well as anyone interested in fragrance range from natural products and flavors, to olfaction, perfumery and fragrance chemistry. While the full program can be viewed on the Conference website, among the speakers discussing perfumery and olfaction, the schedule includes perfumers Céline Ellena (Charabot, Neuilly sur Seine), Geza Schoen (Escentric Molecules, Berlin) and Christophe Laudamiel (IFF, New York).

For further information and visiting arrangements, please see the Conference website or email at enquiries@confsec.co.uk.

Bonus reading: interview with Celine Ellena in Smithsonian Magazine.

Shiloh by Hors la Monde : New Fragrance

Shiloh (meaning "his gift" in Hebrew) is the latest fragrance created by perfumer Michel Roudnitska. Collaborating with Symine Salimpour, he composed a fragrance that combines bergamot, rose, patchouli, and woods in a dramatic and ravishing manner. Hors là Monde, the company created by Salimpour, has witnessed a law suit from Angelina Jolie over the name Shiloh.

As Washington Post article mentions, "After a five-month legal battle with perhaps the most famous mother and child on the planet, Angelina Jolie and Shiloh Nouvel Jolie-Pitt, Salimpour won the legal right to call her new perfume Shiloh." Salimpour began developing the fragrance long before Shiloh Nouvel Jolie-Pitt was born on May 27, 2006. Please read the rest of the article in Washington Post, which also quotes Canadian expert Marian Bendeth. As Marian shared with me, the fragrance is truly outstanding, rich and seductive. I am yet to sample it, but anything described as a bombshell perfume is likely to pique my interest. (Thanks to Marian for the information about the perfume and the links).

Painting: Marc Chagall, Bride with a Fan.

Robert Piguet Visa and Cravache Re-issue: New Fragrances

Robert Piguet's already striking fragrance line--what can be more sensual than Fracas, more elegant than Baghari and more take-no-prisoners than Bandit--is about to see two more reissues from the archives, Visa and Cravache. Visa was created in 1947. The reissue includes notes of white vineyard peach, pear, violet leaves, Italian bergamot, yellow mandarin essences, ylang ylang absolute, rose, immortelle, orange flower absolutes. Indonesian Patchouli, sandalwood, vetiver, moss, vanilla beans, benzoin and a gourmand leathery accord form the drydown. The original was a rich chypre-oriental, with a quite striking leather note.

Another re-issue is of Cravache, a citrusy-woody blend originating in 1963. The new formula includes the notes of mandarin, lemon, petit grain, clary sage, lavender, nutmeg, patchouli and vetiver. Given the excellent results with the reissues of other Robert Piguet classics, I expect that both Visa and Cravache live up to my expectations. All information from FFandC. Both fragrances will be available in October.

Design by Robert Piguet, 1937. © Austrian Archives/CORBIS. from Fashion Encyclopedia.

Candide Effluve Guerlain : From the Archives

Guerlain lovers will have a chance to glimpse further into the archives of this venerable house by experiencing the reissue of Candide Effluve (True Redolence), a fragrance originally created by Jacques Guerlain in 1922. It was intended to connote the touch and presence of a young woman. Presented in the vintage smoked glass Baccarat flacon, the production of which dates from the 1933, Candide Effluve will be released as a limited edition of 97 pieces. 75ml extrait will be priced at 2000 euros/2860 USD. The fragrance is a classical Guerlain, floral-oriental with a lush spicy touch.

Now, I only hope that Guerlain will delight us next with Bouquet de Faunes, a truly magnificent fragrance. It is the sensation of darkness turned into the scent.

FiFi Awards 2007 Winners

The Fragrance Foundation has honoured the winners at the 35th Annual FiFi Awards & Celebration event yesterday. Ambitiously, I have intended to report it last night, but getting home from the awards well past midnight and a few glasses of champagne, I decided to share the news this morning. Here is my report to you from in the Winter Garden at The World Financial Center in New York City. The winners have been selected out of the top five finalists.  Please note that niche in the context of FiFi means that the fragrance is carried in less than 250 retail and speciality stores.

P. Diddy Sean Combs, Paula Abdul, Daisy Fuentes, Zac Posen and Jane Seymour were among the presenters for the event, of which P. Diddy (as one might expect) was the most entertaining. Moreover, the Hall of Fame Award went to Donna Karan this year. She gave a rather touching speech, in which she credited her late husband Stephen Weiss as her inspiration for starting the fragrance line in the first place.

Fragrance Hall of Fame
• Thierry Mugler Angel – Clarins Group

Fragrance of the Year – Women’s Nouveau Niche
• Kenzo Amour – Kenzo Parfums

Fragrance of the Year – Men’s Nouveau Niche
•Viktor & Rolf Antidote – L’Oréal USA

Fragrance of the Year – Women’s Luxe
•Juicy Couture – Liz Claiborne Cosmetics

Fragrance of the Year – Men’s Luxe (tie)
•Terre d’Hermès – Hermès
•Unforgivable by Sean John – Sean John Fragrances/Estée Lauder

New Fragrances : Chanel, Givenchy and More

It looks to be a busy fall in terms of new fragrances! Chanel is preparing to launch a new fragrance called Chanel No 5 Eau Premiere, which "will incorporate all of No.5's original ingredients--including rose absolute, jasmine, neroli and ylang-ylang--but rebalanced in a lighter, airier formula by Jacques Polge."

Givenchy will follow the recent trend of dipping into the archives by relaunching Eau de Givenchy, Givenchy III, Le De, Monsieur and Eau de Vetyver. L'Interdit will also be a part of this collection.

In other news, we are to anticipate a new launch from Prada called Infusion d'Iris as well as from Marc Jacobs called Modern Gardenia. There will also be a release from Judith Leiber in September. "The eponymous scent, featuring Italian bergamot as well as jasmine and rose notes, was created by Karine Dubreil of Mane and was inspired by Leiber's new fine jewelry line." Tom Ford For Men, Tom Ford Voile de Fleur, Guerlain My Insolence, Dior Midnight Poison, Emporio Armani Diamonds, Emilio Pucci Vivara, Acqua di Parma Colonia Intensa, Monique Lhuillier, Banana Republic Malachite and Cordovan, Jo Malone White Jasmine and Mint, and Thierry Mugler La Part des Anges are among other fragrances to be launched in the fall. (From Women's Wear Daily "A Closer Look: Fragrance," May 26, 2007).

Paul Poiret and Parfums de Rosine : The MET Exhibit

The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York is having an exhibit titled "Poiret: King of Fashion." Time has not been favourable to Paul Poiret, a truly avant-garde designer, who at the turn of the 20th century has not only liberated women from corsets, but also ushered in modernism in fashion and created the first line of fragrances associated with fashion (a decade before Coco Chanel and Chanel No 5, one might add). Parfums de Rosine fragrance line, composed by great perfumers like Henri Alméras and Maurice Schaller, was as unique as his fashion designs. Poiret, unable to adjust to the changing times due to the political and economic upheavals, died in poverty, and his achievements have never been truly recognized, neither in fashion nor in fragrance.

The exhibit give a chance to understand the complex personality of Poiret as well as the intricacies of his fashions and presentations. After visiting once, I am planning to return again, because it was simply one of the best fashion exhibits I have seen. It is time that Poiret has truly received the recognition he deserved. Please see more information on The Metropolitan Museum website. The exhibit runs till August, 2007.

Advertisement for Rosine's Le Fruit Défendu (1914) from 1000 Fragrances blog. 

Cuir de Lancome : Fragrance News

Révolte was a fragrance that Lancôme launched in 1936, a striking leather blend that did not attempt to downplay its dark animalic side. Even when relaunched as Cuir (Révolte was considered too controversial of a name,) it remained brooding and dusky. Now, it has joined Lancôme's La Collection, a glimpse into the house's archives, which already offered us Magie, Sagamore, Sikkim, Climat and Mille et Une Rôses. The fragrance has been launched in the Middle East already (I received a bottle from a friend who traveled through Dubai,) and I expect that it will soon end up on the counters States-side. Michael Edwards's Fragrances of the World guide lists the notes of bergamot, mandarin, iris, jasmine, aubepine, birch, styrax and saffron. Although I am yet to give it a thorough test, but it is a very elegant leather fragrance decorated with a radiant floral accord.  A more detailed review is to follow soon.

FiFi Awards 2007 Finalists Announced

The Fragrance Foundation has announced the top five finalists in each of 20 award categories on Friday, April 27th. "The winners will be presented at the 35th Annual FiFi Awards & Celebration event on Thursday May 31st in the Winter Garden at The World Financial Center in New York City." The top five finalists have been selected out of the top ten semi-finalists.

Fragrance of the Year – Women’s Nouveau Niche
•Armani Privé Cuir Amethyst (unisex) – Giorgio Armani Parfums
•Delices de Cartier – Cartier North America
•Kenzo Amour – Kenzo Parfums
•The Scent of Peace - Bond No. 9 New York – Laurice & Co.
•Tom Ford Black Orchid – Tom Ford Beauty

Canadian 2007 Fragrance Awards : Scentimental France

It is great news for the online perfume writers that Marian Bendeth's Scentimental France article originally published on Basenotes took the award for Best Broadcast Media Editorial at the Second Annual Canadian Fragrance Awards. I hope that FiFi will add a similar category soon.

Perfumer & Flavorist Magazine May Issue : Perfumers, Niche and Jean Carles

The May issue of Perfumer & Flavorist Magazine is filled with very interesting articles. A preview of the events taking place at the World Perfumery Congress, which takes place on June 5-9, 2007 is offered on page 14. Nobi Shioya, the founder of niche house S-Perfume and Made by Blog is interviewed in the article Sculpting Scent on page 18. On working with perfumers he says, "I'm so used to those types of people [musicians, artists and designers]... but when I first met perfumers like Alberto Morillas or Thierry Wasser--from the outside they were ... very classical [European] types; but once I started to speak with them, their personalities were more striking than any other artists that I knew."

In the piece Exposing the Perfumer (page 38), Michelle Krell Kydd is exploring what it means to be a perfumer in the 21st century, especially given the advent of the internet technology. She interviews senior perfumer Carlos Benaim of International Flavors & Fragrances, Jean-Pierre Subrenat of the World Perfumery Congress, Jean Guichard of Givaudan's perfumer school, and Frédéric Malle of Editions de Parfums, among others. For a perfume lover who enjoys delving deep into the topic, the article includes two updated charts of the famous Jean Carles method, which is used to study the aroma-materials.

FiFi Awards Fragrance of the Year Finalists Announced

The Fragrance Foundation has announced the top ten finalists for Fragrance of the Year FiFi® Award on March 19th. According to the Foundation, "The top five in each of the Fragrance of the Year categories will be honored with the miniature crystal FiFi® Award at the FiFi Finalists Breakfast and placed on the second ballot. The second ballot will determine the winners." Niche in the context of FiFi nominations simply means the number of doors that carry the fragrance.

Nouveau Niche Womens:
• Ange ou Démon Givenchy
• Anna Sui Dolly Girl on the Beach
• Armani Privé Cuir Amethyste (unisex)
• Delices de Cartier
• Fleur de Narcisse 2006 L’Artisan Parfumeur
• KenzoAmour Kenzo
• Missoni Eau de Parfum
• The Scent of Peace Bond No. 9
• Tom Ford Black Orchid
• Viktor & Rolf Flowerbomb Extreme Amethyst Edition

John Galliano Fragrance : Perfume News

Cosmetic World issue No 10 has an article about the plans for the launch of John Galliano line of fragrances. The renowned fashion designers John Galliano will put his name on a perfume collection, which is to be released in 2008. Given my admiration for Galliano's vision and daring tailoring, I only hope that these talents will translate into an innovative and cutting edge fragrance line.

Photo of John Galliano from women.sohu.com.

Notes on Tom Ford Private Collection

Cosmetic World has recently featured an article that offers a glimpse into the creation of Tom Ford's Private Collection, which is describe as a concept behind the line that is about to enter stores in May of this year. The article offers more information on the notes of Ford's 12 new fragrances:

Amber Absolute (oriental) with notes of amber, African incense, labdanum, rich woods, vanilla bean.
Noir de Noir (oriental-chypre) with notes of saffron, black rose, black truffle, vanilla, patchouli, oud wood, tree moss.
Velvet Gardenia (floral) with notes of black gardenia, orange, jasmine, rose muguet, tuberose, dark plum,, honey, beeswax, incense, labdanum.
Black Violet (floral) with notes of citrus, pulpy fruit accord, black violet, woody notes, oakmoss.
Tobacco Vanille (tobacco) with notes of tobacco leaf, spice notes, tonka bean, tobacco flower, vanilal, cocoa, dry fruit, sweetwood sap.

IFF Perfumers In the News

March issue of Perfumer & Flavorist has a five page feature by Michelle Krell Kydd devoted to Thierry Mugler Le Parfum. The feature comprises an interview with perfumer Christophe Laudamiel of International Flavors & Fragrances. There is also a separate article discussing the fragrances. Laudamiel is also a subject of The Boston Globe article, Making Perfect Scents.

Moreover, another two IFF perfumers have been in the news lately. The Friday issue of Women's Wear Daily ran a story of Nobi Shioya's project, Made by Blog. The article talks of perfumers Clement Gavarry and Laurent Le Guernec, who have been working with fragrance bloggers Marina  of Perfume-Smellin' Things and Katie of Scentzilla. The goal of Made by Blog project is to demonstrate the process of fragrance creation.  You can read more about Shioya's projects in The New Wave, Part 1, which was published in the Perfumer & Flavorist newsletter.

Chanel Les Exclusifs : The State of Bois des Iles and Others

The disappearance of No 22, Gardénia, Cuir de Russie, Bois des Iles testers from Chanel boutiques over the past few months has caused some consternation among the lovers of Chanel classics. The good news is that they are back, repackaged in the 200ml bottles for the Eau de Toilette and 15ml crystal flacons for the parfum. I had a chance to test them against the older EDTs and parfums I own, and if any reformulation took place, it was very respectful of the tradition. With minor exceptions, they are fairly close to the older releases, and they are still stunning. Above all, at the moment there are no plan to discontinue the Les Exclusifs parfums. In fact, I was tempted enough to add a new full bottle of Cuir de Russie EDT to my Chanel collection. The drier and more assertive EDT complements the iris heft of the parfum.

Adding: the main difference seems to concern No 22, which now has a stronger incense facet in the Eau de Toilette (I have not had a chance to try the new version of the parfum.) In fact, I much prefer it to the bottle of EDT I got less than 3 years ago.

Photo of Ernest Beaux, the genius perfumer behind Chanel No 5, No 22, Gardénia, Cuir de Russie, Bois des Iles, Bourjois Soir de Paris.

7th Annual Basenotes Awards : Winners

Basenotes has finally announced the winners of the 7th Annual Basenotes Awards. Bois de Jasmin has garnered a Silver Award in Best Perfume Blog category. Congratulations to Robin of Now Smell This for the Gold Award and Marina of Perfume-Smellin' Things for the Bronze Award. They make the perfume blogging community an excellent place! I am also thrilled that my beloved house of Guerlain has won the Best House award.

The other Gold winners of the Basenotes Awards are:

Frederic Malle's Perfume Advice in Allure Magazine

Allure Magazine will feature Frédéric Malle's first fragrance column, which will run from February to May in the magazine's Insider's Guide. For Valentine's Day, Malle will advise on the seductive fragrances that best represent specific personalities. Malle is the founder of Editions de Parfums, an artisanal fragrance line. Via Cosmetic World.

This month's Allure offers Malle's choices for romantic, sexy, secure and flirty fragrances. Romantic fragrances include Christian Dior Diorissimo, Chanel No 19, Annick Goutal Eau de Ciel, and Antonia's Flowers. Sexy category features Guerlain Shalimar, Thierry Mugler Angel, Estée Lauder Youth Dew, and Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan. Secure includes Annick Goutal Eau d'Hadrien, Clinique Aromatic Elixir, Bulgari Green Tea, and Guerlain Mouchoir de Monsieur. Flirty is anything with tuberose, including Robert Piguet Fracas, Michael Kors, and Chloe.

PFNow Highlights : Interview with Maurice Roucel, Perfume Coffret and More

The free newsletter published by Perfumer & Flavorist Magazine is featuring highlights from their March issue as well as a few interesting articles. Envy, Insolence and Beyond is offering a great interview with Symrise perfumer Maurice Roucel. By way of example, the interview mentions how Gucci Envy was created. "In fact, this master perfumer’s ideas often take years to form from a single spark of inspiration, such as a flower. In the case of Envy, the flower in question was hyacinth. Spotting this flower in May of 1984 (Roucel can still clearly recall the exact moment), the perfumer was moved. However, the notion that would become this fresh floral scent required 13 years of incubation. “Because of perfection,” Roucel explained. “For Envy, the perfume arrived in 1997, but I’d worked on the idea since 1984.” Roucel is the author of an impressive array of fragrances. His newest creations include Lancôme Hypnôse Homme (includes notes of mint, bergamot, Calabrian mandarin, Chinese cardamom seed, essence of Provençal lavender, amber, musk, and essence of Indonesian patchouli) and Guerlain L'Instant Fleur de Mandarine (magnolia, mandarin, bergamot, bitter orange, blackcurrant and mandarin blossom, musk, amber, vanilla.) Read more. ...

Michael Edwards Fragrances of the World 2007 : Book Release

Michael Edwards's annual guide, Fragrances of the World 2007, has been released this month. According to Fragrances of the World, "the new guide sorts by family more than 5,000 selective, niche, masstige, mass, direct retail, limited edition and travel retail fragrances." 2006 has seen the addition of 693 new fragrances (compared to 545 in 2005 and 205 in 1996). The new launches have been fueled by niche and celebrity fragrance releases, according to the data used in the 2007 guide. By way of example, there were 121 niche fragrances in 2006 (as compared to 87 in 2005 and 36 in 1996) and 37 celebrity launches (as compared to 26 in 2005 and 15 in 1996). This year's Fragrances of the World guide is the 23rd edition, proving that it remains the most reliable and valuable resource for retailers. Michael Edwards's classification system is used by Fragrance Foundation Directory, Sephora, Nordstrom as well as World Duty Free.

More information is available at Fragrances of the World website.

Perfumer & Flavorist Magazine Newsletter and January 2007 Issue

The Perfumer & Flavorist Magazine is one of the leading trade publications for the fragrance and flavour industry. It starts 2007 with the publication of its free newsletter P&Fnow, which is circulated twice a month via email. It will highlight the news, feature interviews with perfumers, flavourist and industry professionals as well as offer new product reviews and reports on the latest developments in the industry. You can sign up for it here.

The January issue of the magazine is already available. It is an issue devoted to trends and forecasting, and it features a few interesting articles. One of them is Fragrance outlook: Noir to Niche (page 22). It features interviews with perfumers Pierre-Constantin Gueros and Agnes Mazin, who discuss the latest developments in perfumery and especially in niche. The chemist in me also enjoyed Perfumer’s notes: Javanol, which focuses on Givaudan's sandalwood aroma-material (page 32). My article Scent outlook: The 7 Best Things About Fine Fragrance Now appears on page 24. You can see the overview of the articles on the Perfumer & Flavorist January issue page.

Perfume Burials : Article in Cosmetic World

One of the newest issues of Cosmetic World has landed on my desk. It makes an announcement of the new limited edition Yves Saint Laurent fragrance, Young Sexy Lovely. I thought that it was a marketing tactic to encompass everything, but the name apparently incorporates the monogram for YSL. Well, it is not as if the two are mutually exclusive... The fragrance contains notes of nashi pear, mandarin, blackcurrant, cherry blossom, magnolia, wine yard peach, crystalline musk, amber and cedarwood. The addition of the cherry blossom note should clue us in that Young Sexy Lovely is meant to appeal to Japanese consumers in the US market.

Yet, the most interesting feature of the issue is a piece by John Ledes called Perfume Burials. It discusses the unprecedented growth of fragrances and the difficulties the brands and the stores have in sustaining the numerous releases. If sell-through fails, then the unsold stock is destined to end up on the shelves of the discounters. His observations on the future of the celebrity fragrances are illuminating. "The 'celebrity' fragrance wave of the 2005-2006 fragrance flood will have its survivors. However, it will be the scent that survives and not the 'charm' of these 'ladies.'"

Flavour and Fragrance Events : The Dark History of Absinthe

Just as I have been pondering on what events might combine the flavour and fragrance (even if not directly), I receive a newsletter from Culinary Historians of New York announcing The Dark History of Absinthe event. It is taking place on Tuesday, January 9, 2007. As the CHNY explains, "Absinthe, the potent, emerald-green liqueur, was said to drive people mad and is the only individual alcoholic beverage to be banned in countries around the world. It is still illegal in the United States today. Professor David Weir of Cooper Union will join us to discuss the dark, stormy, and fascinating history of absinthe."

Time: 6:30 Reception 7:00 Program
Location: International Wine Center
350 Seventh Avenue, #1201
between 29th and 30th Streets
$25 CHNY Members $22 Student/Senior Members $40 Guests

Please send checks payable to Culinary Historians of New York to
Carolyn Vaughan, 150 E. 93rd St. #10B, New York, NY 10128
for more information go to www.culinaryhistoriansny.org or email tfox2@nyc.rr.com

Painting: Edgar Degas, Absinthe Drinkers, 1876.

Natural Perfume Month

"The Artisan Natural Perfumers Guild has named December Natural Perfume Month in recognition of the growing interest in natural fragrances. The first naturally-perfumed gifts associated with the month of December were those given in Bethlehem of frankincense and myrrh." For more information please check the Artisan Natural Perfumers Guild website. (from press release.)

Tocca Shop : Now Online

In preparation for the holiday season many fragrance companies are introducing the convenient online shopping websites. Tocca has recently launched shop.tocca.com, where you can purchase all of their products. The first 100 visitors to spend $50 on Tocca shop will get a free Stella candelina, a blood orange scented mini candle. Tocca has recently launched three Eau de Parfums: Florence (bergamot, violet petals, blue iris and blonde wood), Stella (blood orange, spicy lily, white freesia, orchids, sheer musk and sandalwood), and Touch (gardenia, Tahitian tiare flower, pomegranate and Egyptian balsam).

Le Labo E-Commerce Website

Now you can buy Le Labo directly from Le Labo Fragrances website. Of course, those who prefer to order via phone can call at 1 212 219 2230 (or fax at 1212 219 2231) or visit the store on 233 Elizabeth street, New York.

Thierry Mugler Le Parfum Coffret: US Version of Website Opens

The US version of Thierry Mugler Le Parfum coffret has already started functioning, and I only happened to notice it today. You can finally browse the website to read the descriptions of fragrances and inspirations in English as well as use the online form to purchase your coffret. The set of 15 fragrances will cost $700. Please see more information on the project created in the collaboration between IFF perfumer Christophe Laudamiel, Christoph Hornetz and Thierry Mugler team here.

Please see my review of the fragrances. Also, the December issue of Allure features the story on Le Parfum coffret.

The 7th Annual Basenotes Awards

The 7th Annual Basenotes Awards is now open for voting on various categories, including best new fragrance, best fragrance overall, best packaging,