IFF Perfumers In the News

March issue of Perfumer & Flavorist has a five page feature by Michelle Krell Kydd devoted to Thierry Mugler Le Parfum. The feature comprises an interview with perfumer Christophe Laudamiel of International Flavors & Fragrances. There is also a separate article discussing the fragrances. Laudamiel is also a subject of The Boston Globe article, Making Perfect Scents.

Moreover, another two IFF perfumers have been in the news lately. The Friday issue of Women's Wear Daily ran a story of Nobi Shioya's project, Made by Blog. The article talks of perfumers Clement Gavarry and Laurent Le Guernec, who have been working with fragrance bloggers Marina  of Perfume-Smellin' Things and Katie of Scentzilla. The goal of Made by Blog project is to demonstrate the process of fragrance creation.  You can read more about Shioya's projects in The New Wave, Part 1, which was published in the Perfumer & Flavorist newsletter.

Interview with Christophe Laudamiel and Christoph Hornetz : by Marian Bendeth

Marian Bendeth, fragrance expert, consultant and contributor to Bois de Jasmin (please see her Signature Scent article) is taking us on a fascinating journey in her recent two part piece on the excellent perfume-dedicated website Basenotes. Interview with Christophs offers a glimpse into mindset of Christophe Laudamiel and Christoph Hornetz, while The Smell of Flesh, Life and Death presents Marian's thoughts on Thierry Mugler's Le Parfum Coffret. I read both pieces a few times, and I know that I will return to them again and again.

For my take on Thierry Mugler Le Parfum Coffret, please see the article I published in November. Photo of Christoph Hornetz (left) and Christophe Laudamiel (left) is courtesy of Marian Bendeth.

Guy Robert's Selection of Perfume Masterpieces

In his book, Les Sens du Parfum, the perfumer Guy Robert lists some of the perfumers whose work he considers to be especially outstanding, alongside with some of their most notable masterpieces. Robert is the author of such fragrances as Amouage Gold, Christian Dior Dioressence, Hermès Calèche, Hermès Equipage and my own favourite Hermès Doblis. I always considered this list as including the classics one definitely must try. Unfortunately, some of them are no longer available, or not available in their original form. If you have a particular interest in seeing a review of any of them, please let me know. Cordon Vert is the only one I have not tried from this list.

François Coty -- Chypre, L'Origan, L'Ambre Antique, L'Emeraude, La Cologne Cordon Vert.
Jacques Guerlain -- Mitsouko, Shalimar, L'Heure Bleue. ...

Film with Jean-Michel Duriez of Jean Patou

Sacré Nobi has published a short film made for a campaign for Lexus ES 350, called “The Science of Desire”. The film revolves around Jean-Michel Duriez, the in-house perfumer for Jean Patou. If you recall my article about Jean Patou cocktail bar, you would be able to see the bar and the famous Monclin glasses used by the perfumer.

Video Interview with Clement Gavarry and Laurent Le Guernec

I love learning more about people who create fragrances. It is even more enjoyable when one gets to see not just a professional, but a person, with their likes and dislikes, passions and interests. Which is why I was glad to discover a fascinating video interview on Made by Blog with perfumers Clement Gavarry and Laurent Le Guernec, who worked together on Sarah Jessica Parker Lovely. The film is created by the New York based photographer and video artist Miss Liz. The most interesting aspect of the film is the glimpse it offers into the personality of each perfumer, which makes one understand what drives their creative process and what serves as a source for their inspirations. Made by Blog is a project started by Sacré Nobi, exploring a novel manner of fragrance creation.

Painting: Pablo Picasso. Man's Head with Red Nose. 1965.

Ralf Schwieger : Portrait of an Artist

The winter light is casting pearly grey shadows upon Paris, as if transforming the city into a sepia photograph. The neat rows of trees in the Jardins des Tuileries are shrouded in a light mist which also covers the tall towers of the Museum and hovers above the transparent glass facades of the Pyramide. Looking up I glimpse the glow of lights inside the galleries containing treasures of art for which the Louvre is rightfully renowned. However, today I do not intend to enter its halls, because my purpose is to meet the perfumer behind fragrances which themselves can be termed works of art. Although it is the first time we meet, it is not difficult to pick Ralf Schwieger out of the crowd. The man approaching me has a handsome face that recalls paintings of Romantic period artists. He is dressed in a tailored black jacket which further completes the portrait. Although he is a relatively young perfumer, Mr. Schwieger is the author of several noteworthy fragrances such as Hermès Eau des Merveilles, Frédéric Malle Lipstick Rose, Marc Jacobs Men, Paula Dorf Zita and Yves Saint Laurent Baby Doll. Given the incredible growth of competition within the industry, such a portfolio speaks for itself. ...

Perfumer & Flavorist Magazine: Maurice Roucel, Mandy Aftel and Much More

The July/August issue of Perfumer & Flavorist (vol 31, no 7) is featuring a great article about Maurice Roucel (p. 16-18). “When a great perfumer puts the genie in the bottle, the magic—the ‘it’ factor—is almost always a direct result of the character and life experience of the perfumer. This is certainly the case for Maurice Roucel, whose skills, intelligence and humility are a pleasure, in person or out of a bottle,” writes Michelle Krell Kydd as she leads the reader into the story of Roucel’s unique magnolia signature and his passion for the art of perfumery. For some like me who is an ardent admirer of Roucel’s work, the article is a wonderful discovery, helping me to learn more about the perfumer and person whose Hermès 24, Faubourg, Frédéric Malle Musc Ravageur and Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist have touched my heart and captured my imagination.

The same issue also contains an interview (p.20-21) with the natural perfumer Mandy Aftel, who discusses how she started upon the path of natural perfumery, where she derives her inspirations and the affinity between flavour and fragrance. There is also a compilation of 151 noses to watch (p. 22-31). It is overall an excellent issue. The P&F requires a yearly subscription; however, individual articles can be obtained from a searchable database at the P&F magazine Article Archives.

Photo of Maurice Roucel from Editions de Parfums.

Interview with Perfumer Sophia Grojsman

To say that Sophia Grojsman is responsible for a revolution in perfumery would not be an overstatement, because her unique vision ushered in a new style of fragrances that broke with the traditional classical forms formerly prevalent. Indeed, she is a Picasso of perfumery, with her fragrances unfolding into visions that were as progressive as they were breathtaking. Just like Cubism fragmented three-dimensional forms, intertwining the elements in such a way as to present multiple views of the same subject, Sophia Grojsman’s fragrances changed one’s perspective by allowing the base notes to be visible from the top. ...

Perfumer Germaine Cellier

One of the first famous female perfumers, Germaine Cellier (1909-1976) was a creator ahead of her time, relying on short formulas to paint dazzling abstractions and treating notes as colours, much like a painter would. She was not afraid to use a large quantity of the aggressive aroma-chemical isobutyl quinoline in creating of the leather accord for Robert Piquet Bandit or 8% of galbanum for infusing Balmain Vent Vert with a fierce verdancy. She was also responsible for Robert Piguet Fracas (1948), Balmain Jolie Madame (1953), Balmain Monsieur Balmain (1964), and Nina Ricci Coeur-Joie (1946).

It is said that she was a striking woman—elegant, tall, thin, blond, blue-eyed. She had a sharp sense of humour and was full of vitality. She posed for André Derain and counted other famous painters and sculptors among her friends. ...

Perfumer Isabelle Doyen of Annick Goutal

Isabelle Doyen says that she became a perfumer through a convergence of circumstances. At the age of 4, she asked herself how a pear can smell of rose and a rose smell of pear. She found this mystery dizzying. She was intrigued by the notion of perfume and she thought that it was a very unique pursuit. Now, it has been 18 years, since she has been practicing the art of perfumery. From SFP.

She created the following fragrances for Annick Goutal: Ce Soir Ou Jamais, Duel, Eau du Fier, Eau du Sud, Gardenia Passion, Grand Amour, Les Nuits d’ Hadrien, Mandragore, Petite Cherie, Sables, Vanille Exquise, and Songes, to be released in 2006. Her other fragrance is Eau du Prince Jardinier by Prince Jardinier.

Sophie Labbé Receives Prix François Coty

Prix François Coty for 2005, which recognizes the perfumer’s achievements, both over the span of the career as well as the most recent ones, was awarded to Sophie Labbé, a senior perfumer with International Flavors & Fragrances. She is the first woman to receive the prize, which has been in effect since 2000. Her creations include Nina Ricci Premier Jour, Givenchy Organza, Hugo Boss Boss Woman, and Comme des Garçons Series 1: Tea.

Previous recipients of the prize were perfumers such as Alberto Morillas (the creator of Giorgio Armani Emporio White She, Bvlgari Omnia, Calvin Klein cK One), Maurice Roucel (the nose behind Helmut Lang Eau de Cologne and Parfum, Gucci Envy, Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist) and Francis Kurkdjian (Jean-Paul Gaultier Le Male, Christian Dior Eau Noire and Cologne Blanche, Acqua di Parma Iris Nobile). From cosmeticnews.com.

Interview with Michel Roudnitska

From luminous dryness of Frédéric Malle Noir Epices to elegant sensuality of Parfums DelRae Amoureuse, creations of Michel Roudnitska are marked by sensitivity to form and originality of expression. Their sources of inspiration are diverse, based on their creator’s extensive travels and observations unfettered by traditional views. His ability to break through the crust of conventional is no doubt fostered by his other life-long passions in photography, sculpture, drawing, and video montage. ...

Edmond Roudnitska on Inspiration

Edmond Roudnitska, the creator of fragrances like Christian Dior Diorissimo, Eau Sauvage, Eau d’ Hermès and Frédéric Malle Le Parfum de Thérèse speaks on what inspires him to create a perfume.

It’s very variable. It’s never actually done twice in the same manner. It depends on the idea one has. I work with ideas, an idea for a perfume. A thought comes to my mind. I foresee, I visualize a certain form for a perfume. I try to construct it. I try it with the raw materials I lay out for myself. I try first to outline or sketch out the form with products that are most familiar to me, and then I try to modify it, and, step by step, this study goes along, because a study of this nature can last several years, and as it does, I might have my hand on some new raw material, and I say to myself, ‘Well, now, this might be just the thing I need to complete the form.’ And that’s how the experiment progresses.

And when are you satisfied?

Never.

Quote from “Perfume” by William Kaufman. Photo from art-et-parfum. Image M. ROUDNITSKA.

Perfumer Christine Nagel: Scent and Emotion

Christine Nagel is a perfumer, whose creations include the aforementioned Armani Privé Ambre Soie, Thierry Mugler B*Men (with Jacques Huclier), Mauboussin Histoire d’Eau Topaz, Cartier Eau de Cartier, Narciso Rodriguez for Her (with Francis Kurkdjian), Fendi Theorema, and Guerlain With Love. When presented during an interview with a question of “which fragrances convey a real emotion to you,” she responds:

“[Chanel] Bois des îles, because this fragrance has an incredible magic to it. [Shiseido] Féminité du Bois, which I find magnificent. I also adore Opium because of its perfect coherence with the brand. And [Clinique] Aromatics Elixir because of its seductive sensuality. These fragrances fascinate me, they make me shiver.” Read the rest of the interview on Scented Pages.

If asked the same question, what would you answer?

Perfumer Pierre Bourdon: Art and Fragrance

Pierre Bourdon is the creator of fragrances like Iris Poudré, Yves Saint Laurent Kouros (1981), and Shiseido Féminité Du Bois (1992, with Christopher Sheldrake), and Dolce Vita (1996 , with Maurice Roger). When asked to link his creative sensibility to a pictoral style, he responds, “The period between impressionism and fauvism – a creative period which balances on figurative interpretation and transcendental reality. Having said that, I am equally fond of Vermeer’s paintings, in which the reproduction of light is almost supernatural” (read the rest of the interview on Scented Pages).

If you were to name your favourite art work, what fragrance would be associated with it?

Jan Vermeer. Woman with a Pearl Necklace. c.1664. Oil on canvas. Staatliche Museen zu Berlin, Gemaldegalerie, Berlin. From abcgallery.com.

Guy Robert on Theories of Perfume Creation

Guy Robert, the creator of fragrances such as Hermès Calèche (see a wonderful Robin’s review on Nowsmellthis), Christian Dior Dioressence and Rochas Monsieur Rochas, during the course of a lecture given in April of 1998 to the British Society of Perfumers brought up a very interesting point about perfume creation. He notes that “our art is so mysterious, most of the perfumers cannot explain the proceedings they use to build a perfume. Our method could be compared to the Art of Cooking, a sort of "rule of thumb" (empiricism), and I agree this is not looking very serious!”

Recognizing the relationship between music and painting, Robert proceeds to offer two theories, even though they have not been defined. First, “for every perfume note there are several levels, like what the musicians call "octaves".

Perfumer Christopher Laudamiel on Science and Perfumery

"In music, a “ti” note will always sound like a “ti,” independently of the note played before and the one played after. This is close to impossible in perfumery. Even after 30 years of successful creations, experienced perfumers are down to trial and error when combining notes. This is explained by basic chemistry principles such as the second principle of thermodynamics. To predict the influence of a material in a mixture containing 60 other ingredients is difficult because of the real versus ideal chemical potentials in thermodynamics. The possibilities are endless, 1000 to 2000 scents are available to use in a fragrance, and they may be dosed at different magnitudes within the fragrance depending on the desired effect. Also, a molecule from one supplier smells different than the same molecule from another supplier due to the smallest amount of impurities derived from different synthesis routes or starting materials. In terms of natural molecules, a bergamot from South Eastern Italy smells different than a bergamot from South Western Italy. The nose, even a layperson’s, is very sensitive." Excerpt from interview (thanks to Anya for sending the link).

Christopher Laudamiel is the creator of fragrances like Slatkin Fig & Absinthe, Clinique Happy Heart, and Michael Kors Island.

Jean-Paul Guerlain on Classical Fragrances

Talking about classical fragrance, Jean-Paul Guerlain, the perfumer for the house until his retirement in 2002, mentions "Arpège under its original formula, Fahrenheit and Eau Sauvage by Christian Dior, Chanel No. 5, Nina Ricci L'Air du Temps and Pleasures by Estée Lauder." "A classic perfume is determined by the quality of the raw materials you put in it and by its elegance, distinction and originality," Guerlain says. "Above all it has to be memorable."  An excerpt from a Reuters article (03/27/01).

My favourite Guerlain fragrance has always been Après l'Ondée, a beautiful melancholy composition of iris and bitter almond note of heliotropin, ornamented by a dusky Guerlainade accord of tonka bean and vanilla. I would love to hear what is your favourite Guerlain fragrance.

Photo from Grasse Perfume Museum.

Perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena: "I prefer salty and bitter"

Jean-Claude Ellena, the current Hermès nose, is a creator of an amazing range of fragrances, from elegant Van Cleef & Arpels First and vivid Balenciaga Rumba to ethereal The Different Company Divine Bergamote. Here is an excerpt from one his interviews, in which he discusses the materials he loves.

“I admit that there are some materials I dislike, with which I feel uncomfortable, vanillin, heliotropin, all that is sweetened in general. I prefer salty and bitter. Anyway, I always made sure not to confuse cuisine with perfumery. Among my favourite ingredients are hedione, of course, helional, and those which I like to call "trace" materials, because they are so expressive: violet leaf, lovage, and everlasting flowers.” Read the rest of the interview on Scented Pages.

Perfumer Mathilde Laurent

Mathilde Laurent is the ISIPCA graduate. She is a talented creator of such fragrances as Aqua Allégoria Pamplelune (1999), Guet-Apens (1999), No. 68 (2002), and Shalimar Eau Légère (2003). She is currently employed as a bespoke perfumer for Cartier. Of her profession she says that "what one does not say enough on the trade of a perfumer is that not only it requires much patience and perseverance, but also that it is a permanent training."

Photo and quote from Société Française des Parfumeurs.

Roudnitska on The Art of Perfume: Questions to Ponder

“Not all perfumes are works of art (no more that all musical compositions are masterpieces) or incline one to grant them artistic status for the simple reason that they are more and more composed industrially and less and less by professional artists. As a result of this industrialization, which tends to replace true creative perfumers with prolific "mixers" and also vulgarizes the product, we have entered a period of artistic decadence with profit being the excuse for any kind of deformation of the product no matter how blatant” (see the full article here).

This statement by Edmond Roudnitska, a perfumer who was, first and foremost, an artist, inspired me to ponder, if perfume has a status of art, what are the criteria to judge its artistic merits? If the formula is an artwork, can it be reformulated?  Or is it just a luxury commodity good? These are tough questions, and I do not have ready-made answers, however I would love to hear other opinions and to explore this topic further.   

If you were to name a fragrance that should have a status of art, what would it be? 

Photograph: Edmond Roudnitska, from art-et-parfum.

Interview with Yann Vasnier of Quest International

A honeyed wave of warmth spreads out slowly, its languorous movement revealing a glitter of lily redolent note of rosewood—that unique sharpness of white petals caught in rich woodsy duskiness. A luminous note of saffron falls into the hot wood shavings impression of the composition. A honeyed sweetness underscored by beautiful wood notes reminds me of opening an antique jewelry box—a scent of rare woods, spicy, smooth and alluring. The fragrance in question is Palisander, from Comme des Garçons Red Series created by Yann Vasnier of Quest International. He is a perfumer for the Fine Fragrances division, a position to which he was promoted in December of 2004, after joining Quest in 1999.

New JAR Parfums Boutique at Bergdorf Goodman: Bolt of Lightning revisited

The JAR Parfums boutique is already opened at New York’s Bergdorf Goodman, and it is a beautiful sight. The corner that was previously owned by Guerlain (about to be relocated to its own boutique) is now a vision of dusty rose and purple, with the bolts of lightning decorating the ceiling. The front table of the boutique holds the fragrance bottles arranged on suede pillows, with a large round jar holding perfume soaked chamois placed besides a corresponding bottle. The JAR presentation is to let one first smell the fragrances (the names are displayed on each jar) and then to decide which to sample on the skin.

Among the madness of Bergdorf beauty department, JAR boutique strikes me as serene and calm. The notes of the fragrances are not revealed, which is an interesting concept, which goes at odds with the common way of marketing perfume. However, Joel Arthur Rosenthal, a famous jeweler, is not a conventional persona, therefore the usual is not something one can expect from him. He wants people to form their own impressions of the fragrance, rather than walk away thinking about a list of notes. In the end, what really matters is the scent itself.

Whether or not one cares for the JAR concepts, the prices or the fragrances, the compositions are constructed from high quality ingredients, and it is impossible not to notice that aspect. Golconda is made from the most amazing carnation absolute that scintillates like a handful of precious jewels. Shadow dries down to the smoothest sandalwood I have encountered. Even my least favourite of the line, Jardenia opens up with a fantastic magnolia note, all white petals, cured leaves, leather and salt.

Bolt of Lightning has been my favourite since I first tested it in Paris. Encountering it again at Bergdorf Goodman, I am amazed by the beauty of the composition, which starts out as radiant and green, like a scent of a garden on a hot summer morning. The blinding sunlight, the scents of leaves, soil and flowers are felt in warm green burst of the top notes. Since I have started my tuberose love affair, I tested a fair number of various absolutes and wore many of them through the summer, alone and diluted to 10% concentration. Not surprising that inhaling Bolt of Lightning, what I notice the most this time is the rich tuberose blooming in this garden. At first, it just sheds a few petals that become tangled in the green grass. The heart revels in the cascade of tuberose blossoms which are shimmering and stunning, as if the pure gold of the sun is distilled into the essence that comprises the fragrance. The dark menacing aspect of tuberose is where one is led in the drydown. A green note weaves in gently, yet it is the dark sensual tuberose that takes the center stage. Dark and mysterious, it must one of the most fascinating tuberose fragrances I have tested.

Photo: JAR, Butterfly brooch in silver and gold with rubies, sapphires, amethysts and diamonds. If you are interested in pricing and other information, call 1 (800) 558 1855.

IUNX Boutique

Olivia Giacobetti’s boutique on Rue del’Universite, right in the heart of St. Germain, is not to be missed due to its pleasant atmosphere and unique decor combining Zen-like simplicity and futuristic touches. Called Iunx (pronounced ‘Yoonks’), this amazing perfume gallery, created in 2003, is sponsored by Shiseido, with the interior designed by Francis Giacobetti, Olivia’s photographer and film director father.

The essence of Olivia Giacobetti’s Iunx range is revealed in her own words when she says that "In ancient Greek, Iunx refers to the fascination and seduction of aromas. …. Fragrance moves towards a unique way of combining simplicity, innovation and technology." Ten androgynous fragrances in the Iunx range (please see my reviews) are light eau de toilettes, more similar to eau de colognes. They are designed to be light splashes, linear and simple. Like most Olivia Giacobetti’s creations, they showcase her ability to render a certain essence, a radiant simplicity.

The dark interior of the boutique is dominated by a lily pond, surrounded by unusual installations that allow to sample fragrances in a highly interactive way. Tester cones through which the scents of lotions, creams and shampoos can be inhaled, candle sample sticks permeated with luscious scents are some examples of the ways Iunx discovery takes place.

Right behind the lily pond, one finds a glass installation holding large fragrance flacons, illuminated only by opalescent light. Fragrances are tested by a button being pressed under each number, releasing a just scented paper strip. When one is ready to sample fragrances on the skin, helpful sales associates dressed in slim black ensembles lightly touch cabintes with concealed doors, revealing rows of tester sprays.

It is definitely one of the most pleasant fragrance shopping experiences I have had—leisurely, quiet, a respite from the world outside the boutique’s walls. I cannot recommend a trip there highly enough.

The stars of the range, in my opinion, are the room and body products which are of high quality and come in a wide range of tantalizing and unusual fragrances from exotic flowers, luscious fruit to smoky woods. Shower gels have scents such as courgette (zucchini) flower, melonseed, linseed and wild rice. Moreover, Longan and Rum and Date Honey shampoos are luscious and leave hair subtly scented and soft. The candle collection is definitely worth exploring, with scents like White Lily (Lys Blanc), White Yucca (Yucca Blanc), Galangal, Papyrus, Saffron (Saffran), Red Sandalwood (Stanl Rouge), and Sugar Cane (Canne A Sucre), to name my favourites. Every candle I have had was enchanting, releasing potent and long lasting fragrance lavishly into the air. Furthermore, Iunx Ozmotek system designed to scent a room is likewise great. I especially liked Vapeur Rose and Vapeur de Sucre, a scent of delicate red roses heated by the sun and a mouthwatering flowery caramel, respectively.

Finally, the sensory experience is complemented by Iunx macaroons, with flavours like Ambre Blanc, white amber (vanilla, white sandalwood, rose petals and mandarin), Havana (white tobacco, rum, honey, spices, saffron, and vanilla), and my favourite Madras (rose, saffron, mango pulp, green almond, cardamom, sandalwood and black cumin).

Unfortunately, the boutique does not ship overseas, however EU residents can call 33 1 45 44 50 14 to place an order.   . The US residents can purchase IUNX products from Scenteurs D’Ailleurs.

Nose of the Week: Olivia Giacobetti

Speaking of the Post-Impressionists, Roger Fry, a well-known English critic noted that they did not merely intend "…to imitate form, but to create form…. [not] to imitate life, but to find an equivalent for life… In fact, they aim not at illusion but at reality." The same can be said about Olivia Giacobetti’s creations, with their marvelous precision combined with dream-like expression. The fig leaf, the iris blossom and the scent of Chinese tea are not just perfect renditions of these scents as found in nature, but they attain a whole new layer of light and movement that cannot be captured merely by reproduction. Experiencing Olivia Giacobetti’s fragrances is like starring at the bright light through gauze, with the sharpness and burning sensation muted, while the glow is more underscored. Her approach is not so much minimalist, as focusing on the essential, whether she is trying to ornament a lilac note or present a milky sappiness of a green fig.

Olivia Giacobetti was born on April 9, 1966 in Boulogne, France. Her father, Francis Giacobetti, a well-known photographer and a director of film Emmanuelle 2, encouraged Olivia in her desire to become a perfumer. At 17, she started studying at Robertet, and several years later she created her own company Iskia.

Her creations

L'Eau del'Artisan for L'Artisan Parfumeur (1993)
Premier Figuier for L'Artisan Parfumeur (1994)
Thé Pour Un été for L'Artisan Parfumeur (1996)
Drôle de Rose for L'Artisan Parfumeur (1996)
Philosykos for Diptyque (1996)
Ofresia for Diptyque (1996)
L’Eau du Fleuriste for L'Artisan Parfumeur (1997)
Navegar for L'Artisan Parfumeur (1998)
Hiris for Hermès (1999)
Ofrésia for Diptyque (1999)
Dzing ! for L'Artisan Parfumeur (1999)
Passage d'Enfer for L'Artisan Parfumeur (1999)
En Passant for Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle (2000)
Fleur de Carotte for L'Artisan Parfumeur (2000)
Tea for Two for L'Artisan Parfumeur (2000)
Thé des Sables for L'Artisan Parfumeur (2001)
Un Bouquet en Mai for L'Artisan Parfumeur (2001)
Opôné for Diptyque (2001)
Andrée Putmann Préparation Parfumée (2001)
Iunx for Shiseido (2003-2004)
Jour de Fête for L'Artisan Parfumeur (2004)
Costes (with Rami Mekdachi)
Cinq Mondes Eau Egyptienne(2005)
Extrait de Songe for L'Artisan Parfumeur (2005)
Le Petit de Guerlain for Guerlain (2005)
Idole de Lubin
Candle for Bottega Veneta, Essence of John Galliano candle for Diptyque, Costes candle

As Giacobetti says about creation of perfume, perfume is a mystery, "a language, a world of symbols which touches the unconscious, a mode of communication that is both emotional and fundamental" (Interview with Olivia Giacobetti). She is inspired by everyday things in creating her fragrances, the scent of quince, fig tree. "Traveling is how I find my sources, I’ve broken the bark of a yellow wood that smelled like quince, gathered sand with a sweet scent I’ve never smelled elsewhere, and even stolen incense from a temple so as not to forget it" (Frederic Malle’s interview). Emotional response is what happens upon experiencing the scent, with the analysis taking place afterwards. When asked about her most mystical perfume, she responds that although she was baptized when she was 10 years old, she did not have religious upbringing. At the same time, she loves the scent and the peace of the church. Her most mystical perfumes are those that are not deliberate. Iunx L’Ether Eau de Parfum and L’Eau Baptiste, an orange blossom scented fragrance water, are the fragrances she names.

My first introduction to Olivia Giacobetti was through L’Eau du Fleuriste, a 1997 limited edition fragrance from L'Artisan Parfumeur. Its combination of mint, rose, cucumber, violet leaves, camomile and beeswax created a beautiful floral that conjured images of a traditional florist shop, where the scent of stem cuttings mingles in the air with the scent of newly delivered flowers. Its sheer interpretation combined with a unique radiant quality led me to discover other Giacobetti creations that surpassed even L’Eau du Fleuriste in my mind. While Giacobetti is an expert at interpreting the scent of rain on flowers and sunshine on leaves, her more daring creations such as Dzing! and Tea for Two are just as interesting. Delicate precision and misty radiance are executed perfectly, whatever theme she undertakes, and this fingerprint marks all of her perfumes.

Photo: L'Express.fr.