Fragrance Review: Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Soie Rouge

June 25, 2005

Fragrance Review: Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Soie Rouge

Created by Jean Laporte in 1988, Soie Rouge, "red silk," is a powdery carnation with peppery bite supported by a base of moldy peaches oozing sweet juices. This would not have been that bad—or perhaps it would have been--but with the typical Maître Parfumeur et Gantier musk dominating, this is among my least favourite fragrances of the range. Notes: carnation, heliotrope, apricot, pineapple.

Jun 25, 2005 2:00:00 AM | Perfume Reviews ~ All Fragrances

7 Comments

If it were smoky and austere instead of heavy and bludgeoning, it would work. I think you're right: the wallop of musk kills it.

Posted by: Tania | June 25, 2005 at 12:23

Yes, I would love more pepper and some incense in it, instead of all that musk. Now, I detect that musk in every single MPG.

Posted by: Victoria | June 25, 2005 at 21:53

I really adore MAITRE PARFUMEUR ET GANTIER.
SOIE ROUGE is delicate,with an evergreen elegance.
My favorite one yet is OR DES INDES,a kind of compromise in between SHALIMAR and l'HEURE BLEUE,very powdery,with a strong background of oppoponax(i love it!),then its ends in a metallic note à la RIVE GAUCHE from YSL,that reminds us the gold...as the noun of the fragance...
Do you know this scent?
I am sur you would love it,even though it is not a white flowers scent...
Well,MPG has got so many beautiful fragances,if i could,i would posess them all...

Posted by: julien | June 26, 2005 at 08:31

I have not tried Or des Indes for a while, but I do remember liking it. Thank you for reminding me that I need to resample this fragrance.

Posted by: Victoria | June 26, 2005 at 10:34

I haven't been able to wear any MPG at all! I gave up on trying. Santal Noble was the closest I got, and even that was too much of something. I feel, when I wear any of them, that they are all trying too hard.

Posted by: Tania | June 26, 2005 at 19:00

I have yet to meet a MPG I like, but Soie Rouge wins the grand prize for its suffocating suggestion of rotten fruit and old used clothing that's been bunched up in a damp box in the shed during the summer rains.

Posted by: Spadefoot | June 27, 2005 at 21:33

This is a great description. I do not care for MPG fruit renditions, as they seem to be bordering on overripe. Perhaps, it is the musk they use. I wish I knew what type of musk it is.

Posted by: Victoria | June 27, 2005 at 22:22

The comments to this entry are closed.

Fragrance Review: Caron Bellodgia Reformulation: Star rating: 5 stars--outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars--very good, 3 stars--adequate, 2 stars--disappointing, 1 star--poor. Look closely at the Lady with the Unicorn tapestries. Among flowers intertwining around the woman, unicorn and lion, and creating an enchanted atmosphere, tiny dianthus, clove pink, is the most prominent. Likewise, Caron Bellodgia is a fragrance of dreams. It bridges the light and the dark and creates a masterful olfactory chiaroscuro. Bellodgia is a memory of a traveler, capturing the vision of an Italian town on Lake Como, Belladgio. Created in 1927 by Ernest Daltroff, genius perfumer and the founder of Caron, the composition features carnation, jasmine, rose, lily of the valley, violet, sandalwood, vanilla and musk. The top notes are of the powdery carnation which gains a slight peppery bite as the fragrance settles. The jasmine, lily of the valley and rose undulate...

Fragrance Review: Nina Ricci L’Air du Temps "And only dreamed imagination Had drowned in the empty dark Its flitting visions' pale reflections, The soul fancy's easy mark?" Aleksandr Sergeievich Pushkin Carnation blossoms thickly overlaid with wintergreen and dusky bitter notes. It captures a moment before autumns falls into the winter and winter into the spring, a sense of something new and unsettling in the air. Its combination of earthy vetiver and nostalgic iris makes me think of fin de siècle parks filled with marble statues. A rich veil of chrysanthemum-like bitterness—a smell of leaves rubbed between fingers as one passes through the overgrown brambles absentmindedly caressing remaining flowers—folds over the composition. Created in 1948 by Francis Fabron, L'Air du Temps was one of my mother’s favourite fragrances. Fast forward to the present. I lift the beautiful lid of intertwining doves off the bottle, spray the content on...