While tuberose can be restrained by a masterful blending, its sensual dark side reigned in, the true beauty of the flower is best evident in the dark fragrances. The rich fruits of Serge Lutens and Chris Sheldrake’s partnership are exemplified by this unusual creation. Notes: tuberose, orange blossom, hyacinth, jasmine, musk, vanilla, styrax, nutmeg, clove.
If one tries it on expecting sweet creamy tuberose, the reaction will be that of pure shock since the top notes are not unlike a mix of menthol and gasoline. It is completely unexpected and almost disconcerting. And then cutting through the icy veil, tuberose grows brighter and hotter. It is a rather representative rendition of tuberose, complete with its unique unpredictability, sweet creamy layers, rubbery accord and warmth of human skin.
If one judges fragrances by the top notes, this is a perfect example of the need to rectify that practice. Weathering the initial opening is worthwhile, since the ugly duckling can turn into a beautiful swan. Personally, I find the petrol redolent opening accords beautiful, much like I enjoy atonal compositions by Schoenberg. They provide a cool backdrop, against which the tuberose unfolds its dark sensual beauty. If I were forced to have only one tuberose, Tubéreuse Criminelle would be that selection.
Painting: Two lovers by Riza 'Abbasi, Isfahan, 1630. An examplary piece of Safavid dynasty art, featuring a favorite subject of the time--human body and its sensual expression.
Tuberose Criminelle's depart reminds me of a substance called Deep Heat (or Wintergreen) we British schoolboys had to rub on our legs when playing rugby in cold weather. Which was pretty much every time we played rugby, at least where I went to school.
Despite this unfortunate association, it is a fantastic perfume. I like how the petrol note you describe acts as a bridge between the sharp opening and the creamy flowers at the heart of the scent. At this stage it reminds me of a mature riesling - sharpness, minerality, petrol and white flowers. In any case, it is no bad thing for a perfume to smell of petrol: Fahrenheit is still one of the biggest sellers here in France and it's honeysuckle and petrol fumes!
Posted by: MC | June 17, 2005 at 08:09
Mike, it is a great comparison of Tubéreuse Criminelle to Riesling. That sharp mineral note that unfolds on your palate is not unlike a petrol note of Tubéreuse Criminelle. I love juxtapositions and I like florals to be strange, otherwise they quickly become too precious (I admit liking some pretty florals, but they rarely excite the musings as much as some of the more memorable scents).
Posted by: Victoria | June 17, 2005 at 08:55
When, oh, when will tuberosity be over? ;D
Posted by: LaureAnne | June 17, 2005 at 10:11
Now L, you hush and wait your turn ;-)
Posted by: Robin | June 17, 2005 at 10:42
This is a fragrance I've been dying to try for the longest time, since it provokes such strong reactions of love or hate. I have a great fondness for quirky, ugly-pretty florals, and this sounds like it fits the bill perfectly. Hopefully (fingers crossed) I will return to Paris sometime soon, so I can finally experience this!
I love the artwork you include in all your reviews, particularly this one, by the way. It certainly captures the lush sensuality of tuberose!
Posted by: Liz smellslikeleaves | June 17, 2005 at 11:01
Oh dear, why did I pop in now? Although I'm going to have another insane day, I have to say something here because I absolutely love this scent. This is a tuberose without peer. My favorite tuberose thus far, one of my favorite Lutens, and one of my all-timers in general. I think the opening is, sure, strange at first, but I grew more accustomed to it with each testing, and now I genuinely like it. The best part of TC is when that amazing juxtaposition is evident. Menthol/petrol note has quieted and it's now maintaining a glacial balance. But in the distance, one spies the emerging hotness of tuberose. I think this visual is amazing. And how it works wonders during cool weather. It really warms me up. Although fantastic any time, I especially love it during the evening for uniquely beautiful allure.
Posted by: Diane | June 17, 2005 at 13:05
L, Oh, why do I torture you so? :) Maybe, next week will be more palatable.
R, thanks for reigning in the impatient one!
Liz, as I said in my email, I love Safavid period art, its uses of details like folds and precise lines to indicate shape and texture. The MET has some interesting pieces, by the way.
D, I love the image you have created. It is indeed the most amazing aspect of the fragrance--the birth of something beautiful out of the petrol fumes. The juxtaposition of cool and warm is just brilliant.
Posted by: Victoria | June 17, 2005 at 16:08
That picture...what filthy smut! Pornographic images now? I am reporting you to the authorities! ;)
Posted by: Tania | June 17, 2005 at 16:38
Great! Stop my forays into pornography at their very inception. lol Actually, the first time I saw the copy of the picture was at the house of my boyfriend's aunt. It was right next to the pooja mandir (a little Hindu home temple). Their mandir also had a little statue of Virgin Mary, and I thought that it was the coolest thing I have seen!
Posted by: Victoria | June 17, 2005 at 16:53
Just received a small decant of this evocative, unique fragrance.
Interestingly: it is very, very true to the plant. They've added in some spicey bits, but the cloying/metallic/"rubbery" top notes smooth easily into the sweetest, softest, gentlest fragrance you could hope for. Absolute perfection.
This one reminds me of Grand Dames (in the good old 40s way) who smelled of je ne sais quoi, but it was goooooood.
This is one of the fragrances/auras I've been looking for for about 45 years now.
And I will ASAP dump anything that comes from a drug store or (in most cases) a department store.
Serge Lutens is a keeper ... A la Nuit is on order ... :)
Posted by: Sarah | August 09, 2005 at 00:23
Dear Sarah, I agree with you. Tuberose really does have that rubbery accord that makes it such a unique and complex scent. Tubéreuse Criminelle capitalizes on this uniqueness--albeit, exagerrating it somewhat, and the result is one of the most beautiful tuberoses I have tried. I am glad to see another fan! :)
Posted by: Victoria | August 09, 2005 at 09:42
Une question ... are there any places to purchase Tubereuse and some of the other scents from Lutens that are not available stateside? Kublai Khan ... and the likes.
Posted by: Sarah | August 12, 2005 at 20:00
In the States, I would imagine that the only place would be Ebay, because no retailer carries them outside of Paris. Or, if you have friends who live in Europe, you can place an order from Salons and have them ship the package to your friend. Then your friend can mail it to you.
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | August 12, 2005 at 20:06
It is one of the Lutens i HATE the most.
Too hard to wear,it has something medicinal at first which disgusts me.
I really prefer FRACAS by Piguet,the most narcotic and beautiful tubereuse to me.
Posted by: julien | August 13, 2005 at 10:24
It appears to be a love or hate scent. It is definitely very unusual, especially in the beginning, which is why many are repulsed by it. I love the opening notes, because they remind me of what tuberose has in reality--a scent of something dark and rubbery underneath the petals.
I agree, Fracas is beautiful, another big favourite of mine.
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | August 13, 2005 at 11:15
Sounds like a trip to Paris is in order then ... oh the sacrifices one must make ...
Posted by: Sarah | August 13, 2005 at 17:05
Sarah, you hit the nail almost on the head -- go twenty years earlier for the ladies who had the attitude, and a similar scent. Here's what I'm posting on several boards, including my perfumery group today:
I adore this -- V sent me a sample, since she knows I love tuberose. I was all ready for the medicinal, rubbery top note that is so famous. I love that note! It was exciting, edgy, fresh and just a lot of fun ;-) I have some rank tuberose concrete with that same note, so I immediately wanted to see if I can duplicate it in a blend for myself.
My mother, who is 86 years old today (b'day dinner at Red Lobster, her favorite, lol) loves heady florals, too, so I asked her to sniff my wrist, giving her fair warning that this is an edgy, trendy, new kind of perfume, where the perfumer isn't afraid to take chances, maybe even jar the senses a little with his intro.
She sniffed, and exclaimed "Aunt Bessie". Huh?
Seems that she shared a cabin on the cruise liner in the 20's with her father's sister (the whole family went to England several times), Aunt Bessie, and Aunt Bessie had an identical perfume. Except, my mother noted, the opening notes lasted a lot longer!
After I pulled myself up off the floor, and questioned her further (no, she could not remember the name of the perfume) she said that heady florals with such unique top notes were common in the 20's and 30's.
Bessie Abrams Hessler, a legend in the family for getting ferklempt at funerals, swooning at the casket, and on more than one occasion, almost pulling the casket over as she fainted, looked like the lady in the Marx Bros. films, the straight foil that they always goofed on. (Mrs. Dumont?) Ample size, matronly dress, tight little cap of hair -- you get the picture.
All these associations are on the brink of ruining the cachet of TC for me -- but not quite. I adore the scent, but can't get the wiggle back over the excitement of the first sniff.
Too funny!
Oh, BTW, I find the drydown pleasant, and quite ordinary and uneventful.
Posted by: Anya | September 24, 2005 at 16:39
"It is one of the Lutens i HATE the most.
Too hard to wear,it has something medicinal at first which disgusts me.
I really prefer FRACAS by Piguet,the most narcotic and beautiful tubereuse to me."
Do you remember those words?
Well,just imagine....now,i am a TUBEREUSE CRIMINELLE addict...i used a roll on a friend gave me...one night i smelled it again...and now i just can't go to sleep without smelling it...Time can do so much...
;)
Posted by: julien | October 14, 2005 at 12:40
Oh, Julien has been converted! Welcome to the club. :)
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | October 14, 2005 at 12:44
yes!
I am part of the club...i guess i have the right to be kissed now?;)
lol
The only fragances i really can't love,even though i try them every time are MUST by cartier and ARABIE by Lutens.
Posted by: julien | October 14, 2005 at 13:09
LOL! Will an air kiss do?
I like Arabie in principle, but it ends up as rich dry fruit melange that is a bit overwhelming.
BTW, have you tried the new Cerruti 1881 Collection? I know that it is already available in Paris, and when reviewing it today I thought of you.
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | October 14, 2005 at 13:14
Well...everything from you is a gift,an air kiss is enough to die happy,my dear.
About Cerruti,i must confess i never smelled anyone...maybe shall i try to smell them just to have another kiss...
;)
Posted by: julien | October 14, 2005 at 13:20
Clever, aren't you? :)
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | October 14, 2005 at 13:23
I hope so...
lol
Very good evening to you...i must go and see a friend of mine who says i am the person who smell better on earth!lol
Well,if one day i can help you smell one product,don't hesitate...for example,i have a sample of MONTALE velvet flowers,which is just simply divine.
jasmin with peach,very hard first,then softer and it lasts on your skin forever...
;)
Kisses Dear.
Julien.
Posted by: julien | October 14, 2005 at 13:28
Thank you for a kind offer. I shall keep it in mind.
Have a great evening!
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | October 14, 2005 at 13:36