Le Parfum de Thérèse was created by Edmond Roudnitska, one of the most influential perfumers, the nose behind Rochas Femme, Miss Dior, Diorella, Diorissimo and L'Eau Sauvage among others. According to Frédéric Malle’s site, Le Parfum de Thérèse was composed in 1960s by Mr. Roudnitska for his wife, Thérèse. Upon the death of the master perfumer in the 1996, his wife allowed for the fragrance to be released to the public through Frédéric Malle.
Le Parfum de Thérèse is one of my favourites from the collection. The burst of sunny mandarin is followed by tart sweetness that reminds me of cantaloupe. A dry note of pepper softens the sweet fruity accord before green, yet animalic jasmine reveals itself. It is faint at first, however it becomes deeper over time. Roudnitska’s treatment of indoles in jasmine is fascinating in that by exploring the indolic scent of decay hiding underneath the silky flower petals, he creates a genuinely sensual fragrance that straddles the very fine line between seduction and repulsion.
While jasmine intensifies, violet and rose swirl out of the spicy green plum accords in the middle notes. The entire composition rests on a dry leathery base touched by earthy notes of vetiver. A fragrance both seductive and elegant, it unfolds gently on the skin, never failing to surprise me. I find something new in it every time I wear it.
Photo: Auguste Rodin, Fugit Amor (before 1887), marble, Musée Rodin, Paris. Photo by E. & P. Hesmerg.
I really wanted to like this fragrance more than i did. It was the melon that turned me off more than anything. Still, it's a beautiful fragrance and one I'm sure that many wear wonderfully!
Posted by: Atreau | August 06, 2005 at 02:24
Hello dear V! Like S above - I tried to like it. Also like most other FMs - got bored. Gave most of it away. Have a super weekend.
xoxo
Posted by: parislondres | August 06, 2005 at 08:47
Definitely my favourite from the line. Luckily jasmine only shows for a very short time on my skin and even then it is rather tame. The whole feel of the fragrance is that of warm shimmering gold, love it.
Posted by: Marina | August 06, 2005 at 08:55
Just to add to my comment above, am I mad or does Le Parfum de Therese remind anyone else of Chamade? Just a little bit?
Posted by: Marina | August 06, 2005 at 08:56
Dear S, the melon is definitely obvious, therefore if one does not care for that note, it may be a turn off. I have nothing against melon as long as it is not too sweet.
Dear N, there are plenty of other things to explore then. That is my philosophy. :)
Dear M, your imagery perfectly captures how I feel about this fragrance--shimmering gold. I will retest Chamade and compare. I have not noticed it before, but then again I have not worn Chamade for a while.
xoxo
Posted by: Victoria | August 06, 2005 at 09:11
Dear V, wonderful review as always! I can´t say anything about Le Parfum de Thérèse, I have a sample but didn´t have the time to test it, yet. Melon sounds very interesting :) What do you think about Biagarade Concentrée? You haven´t already written about it, or am I wrong?
Posted by: Sisonne | August 06, 2005 at 09:53
Dear C, thank you! I really enjoy Bigarade Concentrée, because it captures bitter orange scent perfectly as well as a hint of twigs and leaves. In fact, it distinctly smells like salty drink made from limes that I had in India. I just checked my fragrance reviews index, and you are right, I did not review this one yet.
Posted by: Victoria | August 06, 2005 at 10:43
Dear V, I like Bigarade Concentrée very much, too. It can be pretty sparkly, but most of the time it´s very soft & calm on my skin. Fragrances that contain bitter oranges sometimes are a bit too masculine for my taste (though I do like unisex fragrances), but Bigarade Concentrée has a rather feminine side which I find to be very attractive.
Posted by: Sisonne | August 07, 2005 at 07:45
Dear C, I agree, it is definitely soft and luminous on the skin. I like the original Cologne Bigarade too, but it does not last at all on me. However, on a hot day or whenever you need a quick boost, it never fails to pick me up.
Posted by: Victoria | August 07, 2005 at 10:37
Ahhhh! What a lovely review for one of my favorite fragrances! Thank you so much. *grin* I consider this perfume to be a truly complex work of art, because as you said, there's something new to be discovered every time you smell it. It shares its secrets slowly. Like many of my favorite albums and paintings and books, it takes a long, long time to REALLY get to know, but rewards you tenfold for your efforts. LPdT endlessly fascinates me. I find it simultaneously sophisticated, sensual, reserved, womanly, elegant, and brainy. It's a perfume that I hope to grow into, because I don't feel like I'm quite "woman" enough for it yet. I need a few more stories to tell, a few more lost loves, a few more lines in my face, to really do this one justice.
Haven't tried the Bigarade fragrances by the way. At some point I have to return to the Malles I missed the first time around! As well as re-try Musc Ravageur.
Posted by: Liz smellslikeleaves | August 08, 2005 at 21:31
Thank you! I also enjoyed reading your thoughts. You capture the spirit of this fragrance so beautifully. I find Le Parfum de Thérèse to be multifaceted and intriguing. Like you, I often think of it as a Tolstoy novel, revealing yet another aspect that I have not noticed upon the first reading. In fact, I am tempted to wear it right now.
Posted by: Victoria | August 08, 2005 at 22:19
The review is beautiful, and it sounds like a beautiful scent. Alas, it is not for me as I do not like melon scents...
Posted by: Joyti | December 26, 2006 at 14:25
I'm reading this as I try Therese for the first time. It is yet another example of a fine perfumer demonstrating to me that I don't at all dislike a note that I thought I loathed.Case in point,the melon. It is very clearly and obviously present, but it is stripped of every element that I don't care for and framed perfectly in this beautiful composition.
Posted by: Katherine Sands | March 16, 2007 at 12:48
Am looking for the original scent Diorissimo made, not the reconcocted one. Like others, started wearing it young but stopped when the fragrance changed. Does a great house make a similar scent but using natural ingredients (since Dior seems to have moved away from that)? Considering Lorenzo Villoresi, profumi di Firenze, Malle, etc. Any suggestions on a specific scent that combines the qualities of the original Diorissimo?
Posted by: dorothy | March 19, 2007 at 10:16
V- I tried this today and it is one of the few fragrances that have recently surprised me..It is such a beautiful 'yellow' fragrance - sensual yet elegant..
Posted by: Lavanya | May 30, 2011 at 00:00