Fragrance review: Fleur d’Oranger by L’Artisan Parfumeur

Commencing the tradition of distilling a particular essence and creating a composition around it, L’Artisan Parfumeur is going to launch Fleur d’Oranger in October of 2005, a fragrance created by Anne Flipo—the nose behind such fragrances as La Chasse aux Papillons, Verte Violette, and Un Zeste d’Été—from the flowers, twigs and leaves of the Tunisian orange tree.

When the orange blossoms unfold their white petals, the scent that fills the air cannot be described in any way, but as an essence of sunshine. Its soft sweetness underscored by luscious opulence is sustained by a lovely green note that almost fades into citrusy verdancy, without ever managing to part ways with the floral heart. Fleur d’Oranger exhibits the radiant exuberance of the orange blossom brilliantly, with just a touch of emerald lushness of leaves heated by the sun. As the first scintillating floral notes subside, a delicate resinous note resurfaces, adding a pleasing tenacity and depth. The delicious white petals become suspended in the mélange of woods and leaves, yet their clarity and sweetness remains unobscured.

For a gauzy confection, this is a remarkably tenacious fragrance, lasting on my skin for several hours. Although it is a fairly linear composition, I find Fleur d’Oranger to be a successful orange blossom rendition, without either soapy or musty quality that is often associated with the orange blossom soliflores.

The fragrance is going to be released as a limited edition in a 100ml (3.4oz) bottle. Packaged in the beautifully embossed wooded crate, the bottle will be of the traditional L’Artisan shape, but with the delicate floral design and the fragrance name engraved in the glass. It is already available at the New York boutique, (68 Thompson Street or call 212-334-1500).

Comments

[Qwendy]

Hello Victoria, thanks so much for writing about this scent, as I'm off to Paris next week, and Fleur D'Oranger is my favorite scent on earth, but I haven't yet been satisfied with a rendition of it. I had a couple of bottles of Zagara from SMN a number of years ago that I loved, but it hasn't been the same since then - nature can be so darned inconsistent! I can't wait to sniff this, thanks again.

[Sisonne]

Dear V, your review is wonderfuly written - as always :)
Fleur d´Oranger sounds really beguiling! Could you perhaps compare it to another Orange Blossom scent - perhaps AG Neroli? I think many Orange Blossom scents have more of a "male character" which often reminds me of an aftershave & I don´t like that too much. Moreover I find it rather sad that it´ll be only available in 100 ml bottles - I always prefer the smaller versions.

[Lost in Jersey]

Lovely review as always. Tenacity and no soapiness?? I will certainly test this next time I am in Soho.

[Robin]

V, is it true that it is $250? Say it isn't so!

[Fenice]

If Anne Flipo has used the same neroli accord as in La Chasse, I am sure this new creation is a success.
True Orange flower fragrances are either wonderful (Villoresis Dilmun f.e.) or hideous (Annick Goutal Neroli).

[BoisdeJasmin]

Hi Wendy! I cannot wait to hear what you think about Fleur d'Oranger. Interesting that you should mention SMN Zagara, because when I first tried ages ago in Florence, it was amazing, an orange blossom perfection. However, when I purchased a bottle a couple of years ago, it was very different--sharp, bitter and a little sour. Fleur d'Oranger did not turn at all on my skin.

[BoisdeJasmin]

Dear C, Fleur d'Oranger is sweet and slightly woodsy in the drydown (very subtle, but just enough to take away the soapy edge). It is not masculine, nor harsh by AG. Nor is it overly sweet and heavy on tuberose like Serge Lutens Fleurs d'Oranger. It is just a perfect note that sustains all the way into the drydown.

[BoisdeJasmin]

R, yes, it is unfortunately the case. I wish it were available in small bottles for a fraction of that price. The 100ml bottle in a crate is very pretty.

[BoisdeJasmin]

Fenice, I agree--orange blossom is either a complete success or a disaster. It seems to be difficult to get right, because the essence is so finicky. I have several samples of orange blossom absolutes, and they range from gorgeous and creamy to sour. This essence comes from a plantation L'Artisan bought in Tunisia.

[BoisdeJasmin]

F (Lost in Jersey), thank you. This one has no soapiness at all. I would love to hear your thoughts.

[Sisonne]

Dear V, that sounds really perfect - but the price...:( That´s far too much for me *sigh*

[BoisdeJasmin]

Yes, it is too much. I wish it were at least half of that.

[Laura]

Oh my. This sounds SO me. I hope it is. I hope it isn't. I hope it is. and on and on.

[Tania]

Nice! Can't wait to try. Reminds me, I haven't even been in that L'Artisan boutique. Shame on me.

[BoisdeJasmin]

Laura, it is such a lovely orange blossom that I am beginning to think that $250 is reasonable. Perhaps, it is just a consequence of exploring JAR fragrances later that day.

[BoisdeJasmin]

Tania, both Michelle and Emmanuelle are very charming and friendly. I loved the boutique, and I cannot wait to return. If only I had more time in New York...

[Atreau]

Ah, orange blossom heavy fragrances never work for me. Althoug, it's always nice to test them in the hope that I'll find one that does.

[BoisdeJasmin]

S, isn't it always the case? I test every vanilla fragrance in the hopes of finding the one that works for me. So far, I liked only a small fraction of the vanillas I tested.

[Campaspe]

Atreau, I still haven't found an orange blossom that works for me, outside of La Chasse. This sounds exquisite, but the price. Between this and the JAR Bolt of Lightning lemming, that giant sucking sound you hear is my bank account ...

[BoisdeJasmin]

F, this is an addiction that keeps getting more and more expensive.

[Marlen]

What wonderful news. I am tempted to buy it blind, though experience has taught me otherwise. I have a bottle of C&Z Neroli waiting for me in the states which I find immensely relaxing and wearable, so perhaps I'll have to stick with that for a while. Nice to finally post on your site Victoria! Looking forward to many more!

[BoisdeJasmin]

Thank you, Marlen! I always like hearing your thoughts on perfume. I also love Neroli, which is a wonderful orange blossom and a fragrance I wear when I would like to forget my stresses and the pull of the routine. It was the fragrance that made me fall in love with orange blossom. L'Artisan Fleur d'Oranger strikes me as a little bit sweeter than Neroli, but just as radiant.

[Campaspe]

It might not be so bad if I didn't have other addictions ... like my DVD addiction, my vintage paperback addiction, my makeup addiction, and did I mention my addiction to making sure my kids have shoes?

To illustrate, I haven't even read your Guerlain review above, because just seeing the name (Angelique!! hahahaha!) made me want a bottle, and what in blue blazes am I going to do with THAT craving?

I am sure I will read it later, but fortified with a copy of my expense spreadsheet, to which I will refer repeatedly. XOXO

[BoisdeJasmin]

Right! In my case, please add travel addiction (thank you, all of you my nomadic Slavic ancestors who made sure I have the same nomadic gene in me), book addiction, a very strange food addiction. I also want to have a roof over my head and to be able to afford my Ph.D. study materials. The last one alone makes BoL expense seem like peanuts.

The name Angelique made me smile too. I immediately went looking for a picture from the movie, but it is just too trashy to fit with the character of the fragrance.
xoxo

[koneko]

Hello V! Oh, I am so very excited to try this one out! Thank you for a beautiful review. Will this be only available at the boutique?

[BoisdeJasmin]

Hi M! You are welcome. It is supposed to be available in October, but you can call and leave your name for the representative to contact you when they will receive the shipment for sale.
xoxo

[Liz]

Drool. Any similarity to SL Fleurs de Citronnier?

[Karen]

How does this compare to Jo Malone's orange Blossom?

[BoisdeJasmin]

Liz, it is just a clear orange blossom, without a musky base like Fleurs de Citronnier.

[BoisdeJasmin]

Karen, Jo Malone Orange Blossom is slightly less sweet and less green. Both of these qualities are present in L'Artisan's Fleur d'Oranger. It is a very nice single flower fragrance. Light, but tenacious nevertheless.

[Tara]

I finally had a chance to smell this last night. It starts off with a brilliant ethereal orange blossom scent, then in the drydown I got the neroli, the bitter green leaves and an orange rind odor. It was quite linear after the first few minutes, and I was intrigued with how different it is from my favorite orange blossom, Laura Tonatto Fiori d'Arancia. This will make a wonderful addition to my orange blossom collection, along with SMN Zagara, Laura Tonatto, and SL.

[BoisdeJasmin]

T, yes, it is a lovely orange blossom fragrance. I am intrigued by your mention of Fiori d'Arancia. I have a sample of it, however I have not tried it yet. I must try it as soon as possible. Orange blossom is one of my favourite notes.

[Lynne Tyson]

You all are leading me astray. I have Fleur d'Oranger on order but I`m impatient so I ordered LV Dilmun. Dilmun arrived today and it`s a fantastic luscious creamy orange blossom without the bitter edges. I`ll let you know how it stacks up against Fleur d` Oranger. I just wish I had enough old money to visit JAR!