Fragrance review: Yves Saint Laurent Kouros

As I have learned, Kouros, created by Pierre Bourdon in 1981, is a very controversial fragrance, with opinions ranging from absolute devotion to utter repulsion. A few encounters revealed why it might be the case. The opening notes tingle with camphorous eucalyptus and tart bergamot, spreading out in cool waves on the skin. The rich fougère composition is ornamented by mace, bay leaf and sage, which lend a spicy edge. Soapy quality becomes more pronounced the longer the fragrance remains on the skin, calling to mind Blue Irish Spring soap. Between the top and the base, the composition is sustained as fresh and almost marine, layered with soapy notes.

When you are completely lulled into thinking that it is a gentle, unoffensive fragrance that might work on both men and women, then curious and disconcerting transformations begin to take place. First, it is just a whiff of something sweet and plastic redolent. Sweet and soapy note later, the composition evolves slowly, but after about an hour, the smell of civet starts to emerge. Have you ever smelled civet full strength? Without using more colourful terminology, I would describe it as extremely fecal. The same note comprises the base of Kouros, and while it is not exactly dominant, its animalic breath suffuses the composition fully. Combined with the fact that it is extremely sweet on me, the drydown is not exactly appealing.

The end result is odd, which is why I wore Kouros in the privacy of my home on more than one occasion trying to decide whether I am repulsive or amused by it. Even though I cross olfactory gender boundaries often, I decided to sample Kouros on a man to determine whether it might register differently. This little experiment led to the fact that my thus far compliant test subject rebelled and protested against any further fragrance tests on him. In other words, despite its unique and brazen structure, I would rather admire Kouros’ unconventionality from a distance. However, I would love to hear opinions of those who wear and love this fragrance, because as I understand it has quite a following.

Notes: Aldehydes, Artemesia, Bergamot oil, Clary Sage oil, Coriander, Laurel, Carnation, Cinnamon, Geranium, Jasmin, Orris, Patchouli, Vetiver, Amber, Civet, Honey, Leather, Moss, Musk, Tonka, Vanilla.

Comments

[Octavian]

You captured the exact image of Kouros and its trick. It's true, the civet note is in my opinion the key element of this fragrance. This almost fecal note is more pronounced in time. I used Kouros for a couple of years and after 2 years I noticed (the same bottle) that the dusty-animal almost repulsive note became more pronounced. Artemisia and aldehydes are the other key element - more volatile - giving its lift and power. in fact i would say that Kouros is the "transposition" (like in music) of the classical feminine aldehydic-jasmin note (indole !) in the masculine fougere class.
I tryed again Kouros 1 month ago. It seems that the smell is cleaner, lighter and less animal. Did it change? or my perception changed through time?

[BoisdeJasmin]

I was just fascinated by the transformations of this fragrance. The initial lift is quite pleasant, and in a sense, a perfect foil for the subsequent transformations. I have only tried Kouros recently, therefore I am not sure if it was changed. I would have loved to sniff 1981 version, since I am sure almost everything undergoes a change of one type or of another.

[carole]

Have to ask-are you still on speaking terms with your test subject?!

[BoisdeJasmin]

Yes, I am. :) He is a patient and wonderful person to put up with all of this.

[Campaspe]

I think you should test more fragrances on him. His reactions are invariably hilarious. (Don't tell him I suggested that, however. He may come after me, LOL!)

[Suzy]

Your review of Kouros has left me with an unbearable desire to sample it for myself, even though I can easily imagine disliking it!

[BoisdeJasmin]

Yes, it is a very unusual fragrance, very well-composed, but quite difficult to wear. I would love to hear your thoughts once you try it.

[Bode]

I have used and loved Kouros on since 1983. True, it is a fragrance that isnt for sitters-on-the-fence. You either love it or hate it! Here in Africa where the air is filled with earthy aromas, where woodsmoke permeates everyday life, the 'fecal' aspect of Kouros is subdued. The variant, Kouros Body, while good in its own right, seems to be a clever way of getting the Kouros brand accepted more widely. Kouros willa lways be one of my classics.

[twix]

I had an ex bf who wore Kourous and you know what...I loved it on him lol. It's funny how I never really noticed the overpowering "fecalness" (sic) of the drydown.......it must have really worked well with his body chemistry! Now I wish I had a sample so I could see how it smells on myself ;-)

[Christian]

For me it is a great fantastic fragrance. It enhances the masculine principle, in a man or a woman. As a regular customer, I don't care about all these names of ingredients, I try to focus on what it is evoking me on my skin. I agree on the animal aspect, but it is fascinating, not repulsing. This fragrance evokes me tanned skin drying in the sun on the beach. While the salt water dries away on you, your skin begin to sweat in the heat. Salty sweating wet hair drying in the sea breeze and heat. It also reminds me of the smell of old yellow newspaper paper when you pour water on it - also about those chemical pencils made of wood sucked in the mouth until your tongue becomes dark violet. And that smell of sex on the beach, sweating under the sun... It has something very ancient, but atemporal, transcedental in the same time. The story goes like this. Kouros is the ancient Grek name of the young naked athlete. Before the race, they were bathing and oiling their bodies with perfumed oils. Then, while competing, the smell of their skin and their sweat was mixing with the scents of perfumed oils...

[squajo]

I get laid everytime I wear this. It drives other gay men nuts!