Fragrance review: Dolce Vita by Christian Dior

Christian Dior Dolce Vita is what I would call an abstract dessert, a fragrance that has a mouthwatering effect without smelling like a candy bar. It is a cedarwood compostion delicately layered with stewed peaches and dusted with cinnamon and vanilla. Created in 1996 by Pierre Bourdon (with Maurice Roger), the creator of Iris Poudré, Yves Saint Laurent Kouros (1981), and Shiseido Féminité Du Bois (1992, with Christopher Sheldrake), Dolce Vita opens up with magnolia and watery lily, the transparency of which allows a glimpse of a hot cinnamon note. The presence of cedarwood hints at the connection with Shiseido Féminité Du Bois (1992), but  the heart of Dolce Vita is miles away from the plummy darkness of its predecessor.  Dolce Vita strays into the spiced peach territory. Where Féminité Du Bois is brooding, Dolce Vita is sweet and bubbly.

The composition dries down to an elegant blend of cedarwood and sandalwood layered over balsamic vanilla and oakmoss. Its almond notes give the drydown a delicious sweetness that vacillates between a flaky pie crust and an almond candy. The dark resinous notes temper the sweetness, preventing the composition from becoming overly sugary and gourmand. Although designated as a feminine fragrance, Dolce Vita would be ravishing on a man.

Christian Dior discontinued Dolce Vita in the States, but it can found at various discount stores online. There is also a lighter version, called Eau de Dolce Vita (1998), with the emphasis on jasmine and orange blossom.  

Comments

[parislondres]

Dear V! I cannot wear this perfume even though your review sounds tempting. This makes me feel ill. I had received a mini a while ago. Perhaps the trick is to apply VERY lightly.

Hope you are well and look forward to catching up soon.

Hugs!

[Karin]

I wore this almost exclusively, which is unusual for me, the first couple of years it was out.
I always got compliments on it. I actually went through a couple of bottles and also the lotion.

I recently tried what I had left in a mini, but of course, that wasn't spraying, but dabbing. I'm not sure it is 'me' any longer. But I still like it. I might just get another bottle and give it a go.

Beautiful post, as always! Karin

[Marina]

At one time a friend of mine wore this exclusively, if she hasn't, if it wasn't so associated with her in my mind, I would have worn it too, I love this scent. Warm, golden, opaque...dolce vita indeed.
I didn't know that Pierre Bourdon is the creator of this...I can definitely see the similarity...well, mabe not similarity of the notes as such...but a common theme of sorts, where Iris Poudre is concerned.

[BoisdeJasmin]

Oh, you are absolutely right! A light hand is exactly what is required in being able to carry off Dolce Vita. It is a rich composition, and I once made a mistake of trying it during a hot day. It was not a good idea!

[BoisdeJasmin]

Karin, I have a soft spot for Dior, because the house's fragrances have accompanied many periods of my life. My mother wore Diorissimo. My first fragrance purchase (by myself) was Tendre Poison, from a boutique that opened up in Kiev shortly after perestroika. I even have a review of Tendre Poison someplace, written after I bought it. :)

Dolce Vita is a superb composition, however I understand what you mean about it not being you anymore. I have several fragrances like this, from a period when I would actually wear just one fragrance.

[BoisdeJasmin]

M, I agree--both share a certain elegance, classical structure and a very luminous quality. I am wearing Dolce Vita right now, and it smells of something beautiful and golden, with a nice interplay of vanilla and oakmoss in the base.

[linda]

I used to wear Dolce Vita when it first came out. Your review inspired me to wear it today. I have forgotten how beautiful it is.

Have a great weekend!

[BoisdeJasmin]

Linda, I am glad that I am an inspiration! :) It is good to revisit old favourites.

[Liz]

I too have a soft spot for Dior. I'm also a huge sucker for their teardrop-shaped, jewel-toned shower gel bottles. This one would be yellow, I assume. Mmm. I've never tried it, but it sounds lovely, and I'm surprisingly enamored of Iris Poudre (surprising because as a rule I don't wear powdery floral aldehydics). I'll definitely sniff this one soon!

[julien]

I love Dolce Vita.
It is a luminous version of Feminité du Bois, much more joyous!
I adore it...

[Tania]

You know, I've never smelled this one. Silly of me, I know. It always gave me the impression that it would be too sweet. (Uh, probably it was the word "dolce" that misled me.) Anyway, now you've made me sorry I missed it!

[Katie]

Oh I love you for writing about this one! It's one of my faves from Dior. It's like the chypre for non-chypre people. It's that touch of vanilla that really does it for me. Somehow it just nails the scent right into my brain. And who can resist that concave polka dotted bottle? I love the way it catches the light when I hold it up.

T- It isn't particularly sweet to my nose. Not that it doesn't have elements that are sweet-ish, but it is definitely not treacly or anything like that.

[Tara]

I wore this a lot when it first came out, then didn't replace my bottle. A few months ago I bought another bottle and had a very bad experience with it- it made me ill, I think I overapplied, and now I'm afraid to try again. Maybe I'll get the courage up.

[BoisdeJasmin]

Liz, I love your review of Iris Poudre, which I have stashed in my work folder, for when I need a glimpse of something beautiful.

Dior packaging has always been outstanding, and Dolce Vita is not an exception. I too love shower gel bottles, and the gels themselves. Smooth, moisturizing and heavily scented.

[BoisdeJasmin]

Julien, you are right--it is a golden sister of patina tinged Féminité Du Bois. There are many similarities between them.

[BoisdeJasmin]

Tania, Dolce in Dolce Vita was the reason I was worried, however it is not particularly sweet. It is definitely sweeter than Féminité Du Bois, but if you like Serge Lutens Bois de Violette and Bois et Fruits, then the level of sweetness would not be an issue.

[BoisdeJasmin]

Katie, I am delighted to see another fan of Dolce Vita. You are spot on about vanilla being the grounded element in this composition, as opposed to being just a nice decoration. Its balsamic sweetness smoothes rough edges into a gilded perfection.

And how can one not like a bottle designed by Serge Mansau!

[BoisdeJasmin]

Tara, I completely understand. I have a number of fragrances that I cannot think of revisiting, because I either applied too heavily or wore them in hot weather. Dolce Vita is reserved solely for cool weather and for light applications. Despite my love of fragrance, I am very sensitive to smells (or maybe because of it).

[Robin]

I too have a soft spot for Dior, but have never tried Dolce Vita. I think that like Tania, I assumed it would be too sweet & fruity for me.

[BoisdeJasmin]

R, I think that you may find it too sweet for a cedar based fragrance, because you find Lutens cedars to be too sweet. Nevertheless, if you have a chance, I would definitely recommend sampling. It is a well-done fragrance, esp. if you like chypre group.

[Bela]

I can't stand that perfume: it's much much too sweet and cloying for me. Same experience as N: it makes me nauseous. Shame. The bottle is so lovely.

[BoisdeJasmin]

Serge Mansau's bottles are beautiful! I would have all of them, if I could. He is such a creative genius.

[Karin]

I wore Diorissimo back in college days. I loved the lily of the valley note. Can't wear it now, tho..or maybe I'll try it again!

I'm going to try some DV when it cools down here. It's always hot in the south! I think I wore it year round. I think it is so distinctive, I can smell it just thinking of it.

[sarcon]

oh dear, I'm quickly becoming convinced that I must try this. Like Tania and Robin I always assumed it would be too sweet for me. It sounds like a cross between Feminite du Bois and Burberry London, both of which I enjoy. And I always perk up at the mention of oakmoss.

[BoisdeJasmin]

Karin, I wonder whether you will notice a difference between the version of Diorissimo you wore and the current one. I recently purchased a vintage version, and it is just like I remember it, unlike what I can find now. That being said, even the modernized version is wonderful. I would love to try the parfum one of these days to compare.

[BoisdeJasmin]

Sarcon, yes, it is a great chypre variation. While sweeter than Feminite du Bois, it is not cloying. However, be sure to apply in small quantities, because it is extremely potent.

[Karin]

I lost my first comment somewhere unless it posts...

I think vintage Diorissimo is likely different, smoother than the more modern? I've liked the vintage better than modern for the ones I've hunted down that I used to wear.

I got one bum vintage fragrance, but not having worn it then, I didn't really know, but it took the fun out of going vintage without sniffing.

[BoisdeJasmin]

Karin, I am always wary buying vintage, because you never know how the fragrance was stored. Often, the top notes are damaged, but the middle and especially the base are perfect. It is the case with my Coty Chypre. I need to think of a better storage method. Perhaps, a small fridge, which I can set to about 10C.

[Karin]

I've heard of folks storing in the refrigerator. I don't, but mine are all in the cool, dark. I've never had a problem with any of mine. I have not really cared for two that I bought when I bought them but I think they are the reformulated versions (now about 10 yrs old.) I hesitate to pass these on to anyone as I feel they don't smell as I think they should. I bought a vintage of one and it smells exactly as I remember it.

All the other vintages I bought except the one I mentioned were fine. A couple had bad top notes, but they go right into the other notes quickly so it's not a problem. My Coty Chypre is fine. The one that I felt was bad the seller said was AOK and I had no way of knowing.

Honestly, I wish they wouldn't tamper with formulas!

[BoisdeJasmin]

Karin, I wish the same thing! It is such a disappointment when I purchase something that I remember from my childhood only to discover that it is just not the same thing. Olfactory memories are very strong, and even the smallest alteration makes a difference in the perception and emotional response.

[songscent]

I loved this so much I got the 1 oz. parfum, too. Dolce Vita is one of the few cedar perfumes I find easy to wear because it's fresh and pleasantly sweet. I'm all for hedonistic pleasures in scent, and this is to me the olfactive equivalent of a Venetian table at a banquet--skin dessert, but for adults.

[BoisdeJasmin]

Oh, I now need to try parfum. Thank you for bringing this to my attention. I also love its sensual quality, hinted by that abstract gourmand note.

[gjn_007]

Dolce Vita seems to have a potent effect upon men. I've worn other perfumes which men have enjoyed, but boyfriends have consistently asked me to be careful about wearing Dolce Vita around other men. Just an interesting thought!

I know it has been a long time since you posted this review but can you tell me if it is possible to still get Dolce Vita? I just absolutely love this perfume and it is all I have worn for the past 10 years. Now they don't make it anymore and I am getting really depressed. Thank you for anything you can tell me.