Perfumer Mathilde Laurent

Mathilde Laurent is the ISIPCA graduate. She is a talented creator of such fragrances as Aqua Allégoria Pamplelune (1999), Guet-Apens (1999), No. 68 (2002), and Shalimar Eau Légère (2003). She is currently employed as a bespoke perfumer for Cartier. Of her profession she says that "what one does not say enough on the trade of a perfumer is that not only it requires much patience and perseverance, but also that it is a permanent training."

Photo and quote from Société Française des Parfumeurs.

Comments

[parislondres]

ML is an incredibly talented perfumer. She already has an impressive track record and I wish her all the best.

[Tania]

Do you know if she'll be creating any mainstream frags for Cartier as well? I'm hoping she's going to be working for more than just millionaire!

I'm wearing Pamplelune today as a refreshing palate cleanser after a week of leather chypres, and every time I wear this one I marvel at how she dared to take grapefruit in the scary direction (darker, with patchouli) instead of the safe direction (brightening it with lemony rose or ginger, as I've smelled elsewhere, to pleasing if innocuous effect) and really made it compellingly sniffable.

[mreenymo]

She has created some very interesting fragrances, and I like her friendly, open face. :)

Hugs, darling!

[BoisdeJasmin]

N, I love all of the fragrances she created, and I hope that she continues to compose more that will be available to general public.

[BoisdeJasmin]

Tania, from what I understand, for the time being she is only doing bespoke perfumes, however one never knows if Cartier might offer her another deal. I do not know what motivated her to accept the offer in the first place, and I would love to find out.

Pamplelune is a wonderful fragrance, that smells almost like the grapefruit rind tastes--bitter, vivid, with a tinge of a sulfurous element. Definitely a great composition!

[BoisdeJasmin]

R, the fragrances are definitely very interesting, with some rather unusual touches. Based on the photo, she does have a very friendly face, doesn't she?

Have a nice weekend!

[Tania]

Curses! Only bespoke perfumes? That's a waste. But I guess they want the custom jobs to have an air of exclusivity, and if she's designing fragrance for every Jane, Liz, and Mary, then it might take some of the thrill out of it.

I remember reading on LT's blog that the scents she made (Guet-Apens, Shalimar Light) had been re-attributed to Jean-Paul Guerlain, which would burn me up, for sure. In fact, it does burn me up: Everything I write is work-for-hire that is released under my boss's by-line. It eats away at the soul.

[Tania]

P.S. Has anyone smelled No. 68? Never even heard of it till now!

[BoisdeJasmin]

T, I also wish to have her release more fragrances for the mass market (although Cartier level of distribution does not really qualify as mass market). We shall see what happens. She is fairly young, from what I understand.

I also recall reading that story on LT's blog as well as elsewhere. The politics of a perfume house must not be very pretty.

[BoisdeJasmin]

Oops, forgot about No. 68. It was a limited edition, or rather limited re-edition of Guet-Apens.

[Victor]

Mathilde Laurent will be doing her first PA at Saks Fifth Ave. NY on February 24, 2012. She will be signing bottles and meeting with clients that have been following her.