Fragrance review: Guerlain Attrape-Coeur / Guet-Apens

Star rating: 5 stars--outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars--very good, 3 stars--adequate, 2 stars--disappointing, 1 star--poor.

Iris petals caught in the frozen gold of amber lend a jewel-like aspect to Attrape-Coeur. First released as a limited edition in 1999 under the name of Guet-Apens, the fragrance was created by Mathilde Laurent. However, in 2005, it was added to the permanent line under the name of Attrape-Coeur.

A classical element of the composition is given by its combination of rose and violet, which conjure an association with old-fashioned lipstick. The smooth opaque current that runs through the composition seems to be illuminated by the interplay of woody notes. Layered with iris, woods take on a dark violet character, while attaining a creamy sandalwood tonality, when touched by a luscious plumy rose. ...

Transparent amber preserves the luminous beauty of floral notes, freezing them into a scintillating arrangement that never seems to be static, either highlighting a dark fruity aspect of rose or a metallic violet facet of iris. A gentle drizzle of vanilla liqueur is first noticeable in the heart of the composition where it lends a delicious sweetness, yet later it deepens to a soft smoky feel.

In characterizing the composition one cannot help noticing that it is a distillation of classical tradition, on the one hand, and of modern abstraction, on another. Over the course of development one is taken from the vintage romanticism of powdery florals and the elegant dry richness of woods to the restrained sensuality of amber. It is abstract by never managing to conjure with precision a particular note as found in nature, yet it is classical in presenting these abstractions in a traditional sequential form of a grand parfum.

Currently, the fragrance is exclusive to 68 Champs Elysées boutique, however it can be ordered by emailing Antoine-Olivier Metz, the store manager, at [email protected]. Supposedly, some of the exclusive fragrance will be featured in the new Bergdorf Goodman Guerlain boutique in New York, and Attrape-Coeur might join their ranks.

Comments

[Evan]

I've really wanted to smell this perfume for a while, and your description increases my interest, as it sounds like it is in one of my favorite perfume families, dark violet-iris. I know that JP Guerlain is now credited as the author, but I don't know if he made any major changes to the composition since it was Guet-Apens. Have you sampled the earlier incarnation V?

[Laura]

Hi V! For some reason, Guet-Apens works best for me in really cold weather, which we haven't been having, of course. I have a bottle with the original scent and recently tried the new one in Paris--- and they are identical.
Btw, I am really enjoying my Angelique Noire, but the atomiser thingy is driving me crazy! It releases only an anemic splutter.

[Annie]

Thanks for the lovely review V. I am going to wear this today. The ohio cold and rainy weather is perfect for it.
I am glad that they have added this fragrance to the permanent collection. It was so highly sought after and the prices were pretty high. A few muaers did a group purchase so I was able to have a decant. It is wonderful to know that I might be able to get a full size bottle one day.

[Sisonne]

Dear V, lovely review - I know, I´m repeating myself ;)
I don´t know Attrape-Coeur by now, but I believe it´s a wonderful perfume - like most of the Guerlains! Is the rose very dominant?
I´ve antoher question which doesn´t belong in thsi review, but I´ll ask you anyway, I hope you don´t bother too much ;) Do you think SL Chergui & Cèdre are very similar scents? (I only know Cèdre that´s why I´m asking!)

[Karin]

I've never smelled this, but comments about GA, again I've not smelled this one either, say it includes a leather note, which I notice you don't list. I wonder if AC is the same fragrance.

I sometimes have to be careful with leather notes. But AC sounds absolutely lovely.

[parislondres]

Lovely review dear V! I like to try this whenever I pass by the boutique but I have not bought it. I am seriously lemming Metalys and Liu! ;D

Mwah!

[Marina]

This sounds absolutely wonderful, Vikochka, from start to finish, not a single note that I wouldn't like...As if I needed another super expensive lemming...how much is the bottle exactly...? :-)

[BoisdeJasmin]

Evan, this is definitely a wonderful composition, but I would say that violet aspect is more of a side effect of wood notes combined with other elements. Quite possibly the composition relies on Iso E Super, which has a chameleon character when paired with something like methyl ionone and amber synthetics. At any rate, it is worth sampling, and given your tastes, I think that you might really like it.

[BoisdeJasmin]

Laura, yes, I find the fragrances to be pretty much identical. Of course, you are right--its sweetness is much better suited for dry cool weather, not this odd humid thing that our "Paris" of the South has been having. Although today it seems quite chilly.

The atomizer for the exclusive Guerlains is definitely useless. It takes several sprays to get anything out of it. I do not even have any advice, other than to consider it as an exercise of sorts. :)

[BoisdeJasmin]

Annie, how wonderful that you were able to split a bottle! The prices have gone up since the fragrance was reissued, although I still think that they are fairly reasonable for the quality and the amount you are getting. Enjoy it!

[BoisdeJasmin]

C, thank you! No, rose is not dominant here, and I would go as far as to say that there is nothing specifically floral about it, as the rose note is in between a plum and flower. Quite interesting against the amber backdrop.

As for Chergui and Cedre, they could not be more different. Cedre is sweeter, more conventionally feminine, while Chergui is smoky, spicy, warm and honeyed. I hope that it helps you to make a decision!

[BoisdeJasmin]

Karin, I do not really notice leather in the composition, and I think that both Guet Apens and Attrape Coeur are fairly similar. Perhaps, Attrape Coeur is slightly creamier.

[Tania]

You're spot on with your references on this one. I remember it reminding me a little of Lipstick Rose, in fact, if it had been done by Guerlain with a dollop of smoky, woodsy vanilla to give it mainstream appeal. I've been waiting for it to get chilly so I can dip into the tiny decant I bought of this off of eBay. It smells so strong and rich and complicated that it begs to smelled after the fact on a woolen scarf.

Thanks for the review! If it keeps up being cold, I may start dabbing it on this week.

I didn't know it was already being sold in France under the Attrape-Coeurs name, either. I hope it comes to Bergdorf soon.

[BoisdeJasmin]

N, thank you. I like Metalys and LIU, however I do not seem to reach for the latter much. It is a beautifully done aldehydic floral, cooler and crisper than No. 5, by which it was inspired.

[BoisdeJasmin]

Marinochka, it is 130 euros for 125 ml bottle. Not exactly a bargain, but not completely unreasonable. And yes, it is wonderful from start to finish.

[BoisdeJasmin]

T, yes, I cannot agree more--this is a fragrance to smell on a scarf the day after it is worn. I am glad that you agree on the Lipstick Rose reference, another favourite of mine.

Actually, I used to dislike (or let's say, not care for) vanilla until I discovered Guerlain vanilla. Their vanilla is just unlike any other.

[Tania]

Yes, in fact, now that I am wearing Musc Ravageur (at last, I can wear it!) I smell the resemblance to Shalimar you were talking about, in this dirty musky vanilla. It's actually pretty addictive! I just don't like those vanillas that smell like cookies—so boring.

[BoisdeJasmin]

T, I know what you mean. It is addictive. As I read your comment, I was actually able to envision what you mean perfectly. I am testing Allure Sensuelle and YSL Cinema this morning, but I wish I could go home and wear my MR dry oil. The lotion is also a great option though.

Cookie type vanillas do not hold much interest for me either, possibly because I do not particularly obvious gourmand fragrances. A bit of abstraction is what I would prefer.

[Robin]

You have inspired me V, I have had a sample of this for some time and have not tried it. Off to fish it out of the drawer...

[BoisdeJasmin]

R, I cannot wait to hear what you think. I think that it is really well-made.

[Sisonne]

V, you description of Cèdre & Chergui really helped me a lot, thank you :)

[BoisdeJasmin]

C, I am glad! You are most welcome.

[Christina H.]

Just out of gee whiz curiosity, can this be shipped from France to the US or, is this something one must make a trip for? Thanks again for any help.

[BoisdeJasmin]

Christina, you can purchase it directly from Guerlain, which is what I have done. However, just keep in mind that it takes about a month for the package to arrive to the States.

[Christina H.]

Sorry, I see after reading your review thoroughly that you provided all the contact info needed!

[julien]

I have had the privilege of smelling it many times at the Guerlain Boutique in the Champs Elysées.
It is indeed one of the most interesting reedition of the GUERLAIN HOUSE.
Vega is quite amazing too.
The pity is in two facts:they are incredibly expansive and they don't last on skin.
Even though,it is always pleasurable to smell them.

Have you tried the excluvives too?
I am going to have angélique noire and i have a decant of CUIR BELUGA( my favorite exclusif from the house)...it is the same:beautiful but not wonderful...i mean,not as wonderful as old Guerlain like SHALIMAR,JICKY,l'HEURE BLEUE...in that part,for the price,here is one clue to the falling of GUERLAIN...
:(
Kisses dear.
JULIEN.

[BoisdeJasmin]

Christina, they are very helpful, and if you need further information, I would not hesitate to contact Guerlain directly.

[BoisdeJasmin]

Julien, I tried the exclusives as well, and I thought that they were really well-done. I would say that they last fairly well on me, however sometimes it depends on the skin dryness, etc.

Cuir Beluga is wonderful, even though I am not sure what the name refers to. It would be more suitable to be called Cuir Vanille, but either way, it is a lovely creamy vanilla and suede combination.

[MICHEL]

bonsoir Madame,
As usual, you are such a good writer, it's always a real good pleasure to read your scent emotions :
for me fhis parfum talks about maturity, natural sensuality and generosity ,but i wear it (i'm a man !) but i'd realy like to smell it in the hairs and on the neck of a woman with dark eyes .

[julien]

Well,Cuir beluga is not reallt leather,Rose Barbare is not really barbare and Angelique noire not that dark...lol.
Even though i love those names...

[BoisdeJasmin]

Michel, thank you very much. I would have to agree with your views on the character of this fragrance. I also think that it has a very interesting quality of never remaining static--one moment, a sweet aspect is more noticeable, the next a woody one. I think that it would smell wonderful on a man.

[BoisdeJasmin]

J, that is very true! Yet, I also like the names. Oh well, it is not the name that makes a difference in the end.