Fragrance Review: Carnal Flower by Frederic Malle

Frédéric Malle Carnal Flower explores the sensuality of tuberose rendering white blossoms both as bathed in the sunlight and touched by the evening shadows. In the Victorian language of flowers, tuberose signified dangerous pleasures, while in India young girls were warned against inhaling its aphrodisiac scent after dark, lest it lead them into trouble.

Its herbaceous verdant opening notes interspersed with tart shimmer of bergamot are structured as a crescendo leading to a heady burst of petals. The heart is comprised of creamy tuberose layered with lacy jasmine notes, their richness complementing the unique hot rubber and warm skin facet that hides underneath the white voluptuous petals of tuberose. ...

Yet, before the composition has a chance to assume the Fracas-like buttery character, an orange blossom tones down the intensity. Carnal Flower unfolds like a roll of raw silk, warm and smooth, with the coconut lending a milky sweetness to the sumptuous flowers. The fruity notes are present merely as delicate sweet accents, without a tendency to dominate.

Carnal Flower’s creator, Dominique Ropion, has composed some of the most fascinating floral fragrances, such as Une Fleur de Cassie, Givenchy Ysatis, and Givenchy Amarige. Carnal Flower is likewise interesting in its ability to weave notes into a rich, yet soaring composition. While nevertheless opulent, as a proper tuberose should be, Carnal Flower does not end up as heavy and cloying, and its radiance is sustained even into the drydown.

As compared to my beloved trio of tuberoses, radiant Caron Tubéreuse, shocking Serge Lutens Tubéreuse Criminelle and hypnotic Robert Piguet Fracas, Carnal Flower presents a perfect balance between opulence and elegance. It is more complex than Caron, yet no less sanguine. Its beautiful form includes both the sensual embrace of Serge Lutens and the narcotic richness of Fracas, yet it seems to be less challenging to appreciate.

As for “Carnal Flower”... Juliet was certainly right when she said, “What's in a name? That which we call a rose / By any other word would smell as sweet.” Still, it does not change the fact that in my mind the composition calls for a more poetic title.

Notes include bergamot, melon, camphor, tuberose, ylang-ylang, jasmine, orange blossom, coconut, white musk. Although currently available only at Barney’s New York, the fragrance will soon be released in Frédéric Malle boutiques in Paris and eventually directly from Editions de Parfums.

Please see other Frédéric Malle reviews:
En Passant
Iris Poudré
L’Eau d’Hiver
Le Parfum de Thérèse
Lipstick Rose
Musc Ravageur
Noir Epices
Une Rose

Comments

[BoisdeJasmin]

Veronica, I would suggest experimenting further with the EDP, because that is what you seem to have liked at first. The parfum will not have the same effect, because the composition is different enough. Try dabbing the EDP, rather than spraying it from the bottle and see whether you will get the same effect.

Lily is a lovely flower. I would recommend exploring Serge Lutens Un Lys, as an example of beautiful lily. Diorissimo is a great lily of the valley fragrance.

[Fragfiend]

I'm presently obsessed with this gem that I recieved from my lover. Being a huge fan of FM, he thought it would be a safe bet. The solar quality of this floral makes me think of Tahiti's beaches, my guru's ashram in India, or chasing the sunset for hours in a concorde..it stay true to the flower, never heavy or cloying. i find this one very wearable, and unisex. I think the name is perfect. It is very carnal.

[BoisdeJasmin]

Sounds like a winner! I was very impressed with this fragrance, and I have been wearing it often, since I purchased my bottle. I love tuberose, therefore it is just perfect for me. The green opening is especially beautiful when paired with the lushness of tuberose. Glad to hear that you are a fan as well.

[Juliette]

I absolutely love Fracas, and really need advice on how to make it stay on me. I find myself re-applying all day long. I've read posts where others say a little bit lasts them all day, but for some reason it only lasts an hour on me. I'm currently using the lotion and edp. I'd really appreciate any advice you can give. Please help...Thanks.

[BoisdeJasmin]

Juliette, are you sure that you are not just getting used to it? I find it very potent. Another suggestion is to apply Fracas on fabric. It also might be that your skin is very dry, and this might prevent the fragrance from lasting on you. I would recommend unscented lotion to moisturize your skin (and then apply Fracas after the lotion has been absorbed into the skin). Hope that this helps.

[juliette]

Thanks for the suggestions, perhaps I'm getting used to it and not knowingly re-applying. I did ask my co-worker if my perfume is too overpowering, but she said that it was very nice. That is a good sign. Do you think some of the perfume distributors on-line sell fake perfume? I ordered a bottle of Fracas at 1'st Perfume, and sometimes wonder if it may not be authentic. How would I be able to tell?

-Juliette

[BoisdeJasmin]

Juliette, I have never used 1's Perfume services, so I cannot say anything about them. Parfum1 and Scentiments are very good and reliable.

If your co-worker can smell your perfume, then the issue is that you are getting used it. I would stop wearing perfume for a week and then revisiting. It will make your sense of smell sensitive again.