Perfume Review: Idole de Lubin (Olivia Giacobetti)

Idole de Lubin... “He embraced her nervously, not daring to ask the question that hovered upon his lips. She had placed a large package on the stand in the center of the room. Opening it she took out a tablet of soap, a bottle of Lubin’s extract, a sponge, a box of hairpins, a button- hook, and curling-tongs…” Guy de Maupassant, Bel Ami (1885).

The names like Lubin, L.T. Piver, Sauzé, Gelle Frères, Millot, Rigaud, Houbigant, and Roger & Gallet may not readily evoke the images of the grand perfume houses, yet until the 20th century, these firms were on par with houses like Guerlain and Coty in contributing to the “Golden Age of Perfumery.” Pierre-François Lubin established his firm under Napoleon in 1798 and eventually became Pauline Bonaparte Princess Borghèse’s appointed perfumer. Over the course of its history, the house created about 466 fragrances. However, its glory seemed to have vanished with the hats and gloves. In this light, it is fascinating to experience Idole de Lubin, created by Olivia Giacobetti. Inspired by the maritime spice routes and voyages to the far away lands, Idole takes the name of Lubin’s fragrance from the early 1960s. However, I should clarify that it is a completely different fragrance, rather than a remake of the vintage one. Could it be the sign of Lubin's revival? ...

The warmth of spices is layered over the vibrant richness of woods, making Idole de Lubin one of the most voluptuous and darkest fragrances composed by Olivia Giacobetti. It does not evoke the images of transparency and hazy glow. Instead, the fragrance burns with the passionate intensity of sweet spices. A hot flame of clove accented by pepper slowly spills into the heart of the composition where it dies down in the smooth folds of orange sweetened leather. The base is filled with the caramel redolent vapours of rum, their warmth imbuing the darkness of woods with appealing sweetness. Against the backdrop of dark rosy sandalwood, a whisper of incense smoke lends an ethereal touch.

While the composition does not have a soft translucence characteristic of Olivia Giacobetti’s creations, her take on an oriental theme is interesting in terms of its ability to give airiness to the dark and heavy wood notes and to maintain outstanding tenacity. Like gold embroidery on silk, Idole de Lubin is a beautiful compromise between opulent richness and refined softness.

While the fragrance possesses a degree of sweetness that marks most classically feminine orientals, it would suit men quite well as it lacks a heavy floral component. In terms of sweetness, I would compare Idole to L’Artisan Tea for Two, while its smoky element is not unlike the incense and sandalwood accord of Costes. Yet, even if some facets recall other Giacobetti creations, the character and the final result diverge, being both richer and darker.

The notes include rum, saffron, bitter orange, black cumin, doum palm, smoked ebony, sugar cane, leather and red sandalwood. Currently, the fragrance is available in France, Romania and Switzerland. In Paris, it can be found at Parfumerie Burdin and L éclaireur. In Genève--from Parfumerie Solidarité, and from Parfumerie Osswald in Zürich. Please check Parfum Lubin for any additional information.

Idole de Lubin advertisement from 1967, okadi.com.

Comments

[Prince Barry]

What a wonderful review for me to read at 7:40am over here in the UK.

This one sounds as if it's a must sniff. I have been very wary of trying Giacobetti's perfumes because of her signature 'light touch' but this one sounds fantastic.

Thank you for reviewing it.

Barry

[Prince Barry]

I just clicked on the Parfum Lubin link and it doesn't appear to work.

Barry

[parislondres]

Thank you for this review dear V! A friend here mentioned about it and she bought it in the wonderful Parfumerie Osswald and I am looking forward to testing it. Have not looked for it in Paris.

Hope all is well.

:)

[carmencanada]

Hello all,
I've just sent for a sample of Idole through the website. This is the link, Barry: http://www.parfumlubin.com/
Not only does it work (now) but it's an absolutely gorgeous site. It was designed by one of the infographic artists who designs photoflash sequences for my fashion webzine, www.la-couture.com.
Just so you'd know !

[Victoria O]

The mention of Costes, one of my favorites, has piqued my interest in this one. Until recently I usually got the ashtray effect from Tea For Two. The last time I tried I began to appreciate the fragrance. Maybe this will be a perfect balance between the two.

[Laura]

What a perfect description, V! I am zealously guarding my precious drops. Thank you so much for them. I think of Rembrandt sepia ink wash and line drawings here, or even some of his small oils, featuring pools of light surrounded by layers of umber and ochre.

[Håkan Nellmar]

The link was supposed to take you here:
http://www.parfum-lubin.fr/

Idole sounds lovely. My favourite Giacobetti is Dzing! and this sounds like it could be in the same vein.

[Judith (lilybp)]

Another beautiful review! This sounds wonderful, particularly since I enjoy Giacobetti's perfumes, but am generally, like Barry, a fan of "richer and darker" scents. I, too, sent a request for a sample to their website. We shall see. . .

[Marina]

Woody liqueur...sounds very very appealing. Thank you for the lovely review, V!

[Prince Barry]

Thanks carmencanada and Hakan. Hakan's link worked because it had the '-' in the middle.

I have ordered a sample too.

Barry

[Prince Barry]

I have just received a lovely email from Gilles who works for Lubin saying that they have had requests for samples from all over the world and there could be a delay in sending them out.

I have told him about your lovely review and said that he should visit BdJ to read it.

[BoisdeJasmin]

Barry, I am glad that you found it interesting. I think that the fragrance is definitely miles apart from the sheer, transparent compositions Olivia does so well. However, for all of its dark notes, it is not dense. I hope that you will get to try it soon.

[BoisdeJasmin]

Oops, my apologies! I corrected the little punctuation mark. The link is
http://www.parfum-lubin.fr/
and it is fixed in the post.

[BoisdeJasmin]

Dear N, oh, I cannot wait for you to try it. I think that in Paris it is only at those two perfumeries. However, as I understand, a wider release should be expected. It is quite an interesting composition, and the bottle was created by Serge Mansau.

[BoisdeJasmin]

D, that website does not take you directly to Lubin's site, although it is quite nice and it is designed by a fan of Lubin. Unfortunately, now many pages of that site do not work, or else it would be possible to see old Lubin flacons. The link to Lubin's own page is on the top right hand side of that page.

[BoisdeJasmin]

Victoria, I also love Costes, and I notice its lovely incense note in some other Olivia's fragrances, including Cinq Mondes Eau Egyptienne. Have you tried that one? It is light, but very pleasant.

Idole is spicy and dark, and it is perfect for the cold weather.

[BoisdeJasmin]

L, I love your comparison to Rembrandt's drawings, and I can envision just what you are referring to. That glow fills the composition completely, and it is exactly what lightens the drydown.

[BoisdeJasmin]

Håkan, yes, Dzing! and Idole are very much alike in terms of darkness. Where Dzing! verges on animalic and musky, Idole gravitates towards rich and spicy.

[BoisdeJasmin]

J, I cannot wait to hear what you think. Since you tend to like spicy and dark, I think that there are very high chances of you enjoying Idole.

[BoisdeJasmin]

M, you are welcome! It is very appealing indeed. I have always admired Giacobetti's compositions, and it is great to discover something as dark and spicy as Idole in her collection.

[BoisdeJasmin]

Barry, wonderful! I am keeping my fingers crossed that the samples will arrive soon. Thank you for mentioning me.

[Robin]

Sounds so wonderful, V, can't wait to try it! The new bottle design is so strange.

[BoisdeJasmin]

R, yes, I think that the top is meant to represent African masks. I have not seen it up close, so it is kind of difficult to say what it looks like in real life.

[Sisonne]

Dera V, wonderful review :) It sounds as if I should like it! Í don´t have a lot of time that´s why I cannot write on a regular base at the moment.
I´ll write you an email soon :)

[KS]

AH! V: Just when I thought I was becoming IMMUNE to advertising I looked at the Lubin site and went ga-ga. ROMANIA? How did Romania get this so soon while we must wait in the U.S.? I love the ingredients, the bottle...hmmmm...wonder what Romania is like in springtime...I've never been there! Why go to Paris or Switzerland when Romania beckons? See? Perfume obsessions can lead to cultural enrichment, yes? K

[BoisdeJasmin]

C, thank you. I think that you might find it a bit on the dark side, however it is still very interesting, and I cannot recommend it highly enough, especially if you like sandalwood.

[carmencanada]

Dear V., like Barry I got an email from the new owner of Lubin when I emailed to get a sample... You're getting to be an influential reviewer, which is well deserved!

[BoisdeJasmin]

Kevin, yes, I loved the website and the part devoted to Idole. Romania is a beautiful country, and some area in the springtime are stunning--blooming trees, beautiful hills.... Perfume obsession certainly opens up new vistas for me as well--science, art, travel, to name a few.

[BoisdeJasmin]

Dear D, great to hear this! I actually did not know about the site until last night when I was trying to find extra information on Idole. It is wonderful that it is possible to request a sample from them. I also happy that the house as esteemed as Lubin (at its heyday) is getting a revival. That is most deserved!

[Test Subject]

Your description has me intriguied. The idea of spices and pepper morphing into rum reminds me of huge feasts I've had with my friend from Guyana and his family, a very good memory indeed.

[Nick]

Dear Victoria,

Sorry, a question off topic. I wanted to ask you for you thoughts on the lasting power and evolution on skin of Naricisse Noir extrait. Often I feel like its dry-down is not as potent as I would anticipate given its opening power, (ie: I'm expecting deep spices in the base.) Are there perhaps more floral subtleties in the drydown, that I may be missing? But then just as soon as I say that, I also have to tell you that I went to the gymn the day after wearing it, to find my bike machine session aglow with Narcisse Noir. I am slightly confused! Regards,

[Tania]

Sounds like a must-try. I wish it were sold in NYC!

[BoisdeJasmin]

P, those feasts sound great. Anytime rum is involved, it is bound to be a fun event.

[BoisdeJasmin]

Dear Nick, I am always happy to talk of my beloved Narcisse Noir. :) I find that the parfum is softer. The drydown indeed offers a more refined vision of the narcissus than the base of the EDP, and it is sustained above the dark animalic note. Whereas the EDP is spicier and heavier on incense, the parfum is smoother, with the animalic note being more pronouced. I prefer the parfum, because it is less sharp in its top notes and it takes less time to get to the part I love the most. It lasts remarkably well on my skin, but it does stay closer to it.

[BoisdeJasmin]

T, I hope that it will be released in the States soon. I would like it to be more widely available.

[Qwendy]

Greetings Victoria, I have never read about a perfume release with such certain knowledge that it is FOR ME! (Of course I could be wrong.......) Thanks for writing about it -- I can hardly wait 8 months until I"m in Paris again to try it! (And thanks for visiting my oddball blog and the compliment -- I guess we should all wear hats!).

[Oscar]

Dear Barry,

Did the connection to the Lubin'site work? If not , tell me, the owner of Lubin is a fiend of mine.
I wondered what is your job, are you british?

Oscar

[julien]

Hi dear,

Do you know the price of this perfume?
It could be very interesting to smell it...

Kisses,j.

[Oscar]

Julien! Vous ici!

I imagine you live in Paris. You can smell it chez Carla, av. Charles de Gaulle à Neuilly ou chez L'Eclaireur, rue des Rosiers.
The price is about 60 euros. If you live in London, waite...
See you ;-)

Oscar

[julien]

You here?lol
You are everywhere,just like me!;)
I am a perfume addict,and i love people,sharing experiences and feelings...so forums or blogs like this one are a beautiful place for me.

I am sure we will have time to explore ours tastes and love of perfumes together.

Thanks for the information,dear.

[BoisdeJasmin]

Wendy, I love the hats and your other photos. The photos of desserts are too tempting!

I hope that you will get a chance to try it. I think that the composition is rather well-done and is very interesting. Anyone who loves spicy fragrance will be pleased with it.

[BoisdeJasmin]

Julien, I suppose that you found out already the price. Yes, it is 60 euros for 75ml, which makes it very reasonable.

[Nick]

Dear Victoria,

Thankyou for your comments on Narcisse Noir. It's an intriguing perfume. Regards,

[kaie]

I love Olivia Giacobetti's work and Idole is new to me. I will have to visit L'Eclaireur right away. Thank you for a beautiful review.

[BoisdeJasmin]

K, based on your list of favourites, it sounds like you might like Idole--dark, spicy oriental.

[carmencanada]

Dear V., I've just received my flacon of Idole for reviewing in la-couture.com. It's marvellous and I just want to roll around in it. I don't know a thing about "doum wood", listed in the notes, but I think the sweetness is marvellous, not in the least bit cloying... I can't imagine where it comes from. The saffron? Sugar cane is also listed in the notes... I didn't know it could be an ingredient in fragrances. The cumin, always a bit difficult to handle, is perfectly dosed and gives Idole a slightly "warm skin" scent: the sun-kissed skin of a lover who eats spices. In fact, Idole seems to be the kind of fragrance that makes you feel you're not alone...

[carmencanada]

P.S. Boyfriend says Idole tastes like a kiss. But he may be biased.

[BoisdeJasmin]

D, this is such a wonderful description. Sweetness is very interesting here, because it is not made at all heavy or overwhelming. It simply illuminates the carved reliefs of the base, like a candle. Saffron tends be to rather medicinal, not exactly sweet, and it is a perfect antidote to heavy sweetness. OJ Ta'if is such an example. Without saffron, the composition would have been cloying.

[Prince Barry]

Gilles certainly didn't waste time in sending me a sample of this magical elixir.

I love it!!!!

Thanks V for posting about it and bringing it to attention.

Barry

[BoisdeJasmin]

Barry, I am so glad that you loved it as much as I did. It is definitely a gorgeous fragrance, and another example of amazing talent Olivia Giacobetti has.

[carmencanada]

I shall re-try Ta'if soon, if I can tear myself away from Idole... Do you have any idea about doum wood?

[BoisdeJasmin]

Doum is a palm, which grows in Somalia. I have never smelled its wood, so I am not confident enough to say what it might be like. In Idole, I notice mahogany, rosewood, sandalwood and some cedar. It is a beautiful blend.

[Jackie]

Hi, I just received a email this morning that Lusciouscargo is now carrying Idole de Lubin, if you order now you can get free shipping if you mention the code: IDOLE-ATRY
Hope this helps anyone looking for this interesting sounding scent, I am very tempted (but keep thinking of how my perfume temptations keep putting a hurtin' on my checkbook! lol! : )

[BoisdeJasmin]

Jackie, thank you for these news! I am sure that they will be helpful to someone.