Top 10 Discoveries of the Year

The end of the year inspires one to reflect on the events that took place over the previous twelve months, to analyze and to draw up resolutions. That is, if you are an organized and clearheaded individual, unlike me. My end of the year is usually much less reflective, being filled with holiday planning and travel arrangements. Nevertheless, this year is different, in light of the important decisions I have been contemplating and the numerous projects on my plate. Indeed, this year has been quite special in many respects, and it is a pleasure to think of the various discoveries I have made during the year. Here is my list in an alphabetical order.

1. Aroma-chemicals

Musk, violet, amber… Having always loved to explore the perfume materials and to collect natural essences and aroma-chemicals, this year I had a chance to sample a large variety of synthetics that were not available to me previously as well as to learn more about fragrance chemistry. This experience has been quite eye opening to the complexity of various aroma-chemicals and the interesting accords they can form with natural essences. What in the past I would have simply termed musky, now has much more nuance: powdery softness of Galaxolide, metallic freshness of Habanolide and so on.

2. Caron Masculines: Pour Un Homme, L’Anarchiste and Le 3ème Homme de Caron

The first time I tried Le 3ème Homme de Caron, I became mesmerized by its unique combination of smoky floral facets with the sweet, balsamic undercurrent. It sparked an interest to explore the other Caron masculines, and what wonderful discoveries they were! None of the quintessentially masculine traits are present in Caron masculine fragrances, and even Pour Un Homme with its lavender sparkle illuminating the ambery sweetness does not strike me as particularly virile. Instead, their classical structures are ornamented with unusual touches, resulting in fascinating, multifaceted compositions.

3. Cocktail Bar in Jean Patou Boutique

Rue Castiglione boutique in Paris is a wonderfully laid back place where one can test fragrances as well as enjoy smelling raw materials at the bar upstairs. Rows of shelves filled with vials of naturals and synthetics are positioned above a bar set with glasses. The glasses, however, have a hole and are turned upside down. Should one wish to sample the glorious jasmin de Grasse or rose de Mai used for making Joy, or perhaps osmanthus absolute that is woven through the top notes of 1000, a strip would be dipped in the chosen absolute and then placed through the hole of the glass.

4. Divine Fragrances

Yvon Mouchel’s perfume house located in Dinard on the northern coast of Brittany produces an interesting range including five fragrances, out of which L'âme Sœur (an opalescent swirl of aldehydes over opulence of ylang ylang and jasmine), L’Homme de Coeur (crisp, chilly iris folded over sparkling spicy and green elements), and L’Homme Sage (warm spiciness of saffron and immortelle cascading onto the ambery and mossy base) are my favourites. Wonderful discovery thanks to the great customer service and sampling policy of Divine.

5. Frédéric Malle Carnal Flower

Tuberose is a flower that I feel a special affinity with and Dominique Ropion’s creations incorporating this note (Givenchy Ysatis, Amarige, Christian Dior Pure Poison) have always appealed to me. His newest fragrance, Carnal Flower, is a beautiful tuberose focused fragrance that is simultaneously green and opulent, radiant and touched by dusky richness. Among my favourite tuberoses (Serge Lutens Tubéreuse Criminelle, Caron Tubéreuse, and Robert Piguet Fracas), Carnal Flower rules supreme.

6. Hermès Parfum des Merveilles

Eau des Mervilles is one of my favourite amber fragrances, with the composition evoking the dusky beach beautifully without resorting to the expected marine notes. Parfum des Merveilles is a beautiful (and rather different) take on the theme, with the woody and mossy notes intensified. Its dark chypre veil stays close to the skin, reminding one of driftwood, warm sand and a sienna red sunset.

7. Idole de Lubin

I love Olivia Giacobetti’s creations for their unique rendering of transparency and airiness, a hazy softness that does not compromise the beautiful harmonies and evocative images they paint. Idole de Lubin’s dark richness weaved into an opulent tapestry deviates from the subtle and light character of some of her creations; however, it has a remarkable radiant quality that lights the accords, with the final result being such an interesting architectural construction of woods, leather and caramelized touches that one cannot help but be addicted.

8. Serge Lutens Bornéo 1834

The effervescent golden cloud of patchouli touched by dark powdered chocolate, Bornéo 1834 was the final piece of evidence attesting to my love for patchouli, the sensual and vibrant note that can do wonders for the compositions, even if it only plays a supporting role in the background.

9. Vintage Perfumes Hunt

Reformulation is a word any perfume addict hates, and indeed the mere thought of a fragrance being altered can be rather depressing. Of course, the fact of the matter is that formulas are changed constantly in order to suit modern taste, follow new regulations and to find substitutes for ingredients no longer available. By way of example, smelling Parfums Grès Cabochard today will not give one a true impression of the original, because this fragrance is simply no longer the same, and indeed is quite dramatically altered. Although I have been collecting fragrances for the past 15 years, vintage fragrance hunting has become a particularly fun pursuit this year.

10. S-Perfume 100% Love

Sophia Grojsman is a woman who changed the landscape of perfumery with her trendsetting creations (Jaipur by Boucheron, Eternity by Calvin Klein, Paris by Yves Saint Laurent, and Trésor by Lancôme, to name a few). Among contemporary perfumers, she is a true legend. Her collaboration with Japanese sculptor Sacré Nobi engendered a wonderfully ethereal and sensual composition, 100% Love. Roses dusted with dark chocolate and underscored by the warmth of musk, the fragrance is dream-like and passionate, like a tender kiss.

I wish my readers the best of luck in 2006! I hope that the new year will be filled with wonderful discoveries, fragrance related and otherwise. It is a pleasure to share my thoughts on perfumery with you.

Please share your discoveries of the year, and if you would like to see other Best of 2005 lists, please refer to these blogs:

• An Alabaster Brow
• Beauty Addict
• Blogdorf Goodman
• Bois de Jasmin
• Brain Trapped in Girl's Body
• c'est chic
• Crazy Jay Blue
• The Great She Elephant
• Hrmph
• Koneko's *Mostly* Beauty Diary
• Legerdenez
• Make a Mental Note
• Monkey Posh
• Mother Hen's Place
• my life my words my mind
• no one knows why the wolf laughs
• Now Smell This
• �Ombligo!
• Peppermint Patty
• Perfume-Smellin' Things
• Scentzilla!
• She'll be feverish after so much thinking
• Slap of the Day
• Victoria's Own

Graphic by Katie.

Comments

[Laura]

Hi V! The FM Carnal Flower IS absolutely beautiful---finally, a tuberose scent I can appreciate and not feel flung from the room by. It is deep and complex and so very pretty. Not that I'd wear it.
I'd hoped 100% Love would be on your list and there it is. Three generations of my family are now wearing it and it is all because of you. Happy New Year to lovely, brilliant, gifted, fun you. I look into zee crystal ball and I see a thrilling year ahead for you with many surprising turns. Can't wait!

[Atreau]

Such beautiful descriptions as always! You reminded me how I still need to test Carnal Flower and Bornéo. Can't wait to see what fragrances the new year brings and hear your thoughts on them naturally!

[Christina H.]

Well,Victoria I am so happy to read this.I totally agree on the Carnal Flower.It turned out wonderfully,I am still so very interested in the Parfum de Merveilles,Idole de Lubin,and I would love for you to review that Juleye(don't know if this is spelled correctly)by Patou.I have been so curious about since you said you would not dry clean your coat because it is still lingering on it!!

[Marina]

Awe-inspiring list. I mean, some of these are completely new to me, for example Jean Patou perfume house as such is an undiscovered territory. Idole de Lubin proves elusive :-)My interest in s-perfumes now reached gigantic proportions now that you actually put 100% Love on your Best of 2005 list. I cannot wait for my samples!

[Jonna]

Poop. Now you have me wanting to try Carnal Flower, and I don't usually like the Malles (I firmly believe they have a similar base, although they are designed by different noses). And I'm pleased as punch that you like Amarige, too :)

[Robin]

A perfect list, V, and wishing you much peace as you contemplate your important decisions :-)

[Tania]

Aromachemicals are number one! Really, I have no idea why you're not already a perfumer. :)

Those Caron masculines were a revelation. I'm so glad you included them. The hunt for vintage fragrances: all the thrill of the hunter, none of the blood. Wonderful. And I adore those Divine fragrances. I knocked Divine a million years ago when someone sent me a sample, but I suspect it had gone sour, because the fresh one I got was completely beautiful.

I should have listed your blog as one of the great finds of 2005. Thank you for all the hard work you put into it, and for that enormous brain of yours toiling away at it all hours. Happy new year!

[annieytown]

This list sounds so incredible. I have not tried any of your finds. You have sparked a lemming to visit the Jean Patou cocktail bar. Cavewoman has some vintage Patou fragrances and has always raved about them. I am not familiar with the line at all. Exploring and hunting for vintage fragrances is a thrill. I hope I get to do more of that in 2006.
Thanks for creating Bois de Jasmin! It has taught me so much and inspired such wonderful lemmings.
Have a incredible New Year V!

[risa]

argh you have now started me on Idole de Lubin, and yes, aromachemicals are the bomb. i only get to smell a few at a time so i've never really been able to compare and contrast, and for that i'm impressed with you!

have a great new year, and i'll be reading you!

[carmencanada]

What else can I say than "I agree"? Idole, Bornéo 1834 are already on fast rotation, a boxful of Divine samples is waiting for available wrist-space, BF gets splashed with Pour Un Homme (just has to be re-trained into not calling it "aftershave"... and persuaded to wear Idole outside the house) and as for Carnal Flowers, it is only a matter of time and budget...
Among my own discoveries, I would definitely add Ormonde Jayne, particularly for the eponymous Woman scent. Although my greatest olfactory revelation was to find out that I was "off" classic scents and more interested in contemporary compositions. But we had that discussion already in the Café Nemours!
Best of all wishes,
D.

[Bela]

Inspirational and knowledgeable, as always! Happy New Year, V! :-)

[linda]

V, thank you for your blog and for sharing your knowledge and beautiful writing. I've made many discoveries thanks to your reviews:
S-Perfume line
Parfums DelRae
Idole de Lubin (I had to ask a friend in Paris to track it down for me)
Guerlain Attrape Coeur
Divine L'Homme Sage
Coty L'Origan
L'Artisan Dzing

Happy New Year to you and hope to see more of BdJ in 2006. :-)

[Victoria O]

Hey V! We both have 100% Love on our lists! And yesterday, I was at the Scent Bar in LA and sniffed the Divine L'âme Sœur. It is on my to buy list for 2006. I must re-test this line. I remember liking the samples, but I think now I think it is better than I thought. And the packaging is in itself - Divine.

May you have a beautifully scented New Year!
Victoria O

[Sisonne]

Dear V, Thank you for another wonderful review, or better: reviews :)
I love to read your blog as often as I can & because of you I got to know so many fragrances I didn´t know (or didn´t care for...)before.
I think it´s about time to test the masculine Caron fragrances! I hope that they aren´t only available in Caron boutiques, but also in "normal" perfumeries?
I received a sample of Carnal Flower yesterday, but though it´s an interesting composition, I cannot wear it - it´s simply "too much" for. I think I don´t have a high tolerance for floral fragrances, they often seem to overwhelm me... *sigh*
Idole is a bit too "boozy" for me which is a pity because I had high hopes in that one. It doesn´t seem to fit well with my skin chemistry.
Bornéo 1834 is a new love of mine & I was very pleased that it doesn´t remind me of Angel at all :)
Today I tested Lalique Le Parfum because your review made me so curious about it & I´m not disapointed: It´s wonderful, definitely a modern oriental & just perfect for winter!
I´d say the Caron (female) fragrances are my discovery of the year, along with Shalimar.
Another new favourite of mine - I´d never thought I´d say that - is Flowerbomb :D I purchased a small bottle, I´m wearing it today & I´m very happy with it - thought it´s just a tiny step away from being cloying ;)
I wish you all the best of 2006, too :)

[whitebar]

Thanks for a wonderful year of reading your blog. I look forward to checking it out every day and have learned so many useful things here. Bornéo 1834 by Serge Lutens has been my favorite find this year and I like it even better every time I put some on. I dread the day my bell jar runs dry because it will be difficult to replace. Now I need to check out Idole de Lubin as you make it sound so interesting.

Happy New Year V!

[julien]

Well...
This year is the very first one i really began to learn about perfumes,so i guess my list won't be interesting because what i did in 2005 was only discoveries.
If i had to make a top ten list of the fragrances that meant the most to me this would be:
1)L'HEURE BLEUE by Guerlain.
I really love this scent more than you could ever know.
I breathe it at night before i go to sleep,it stops time and space for me.A pure moment of regressive joy.

2)Opium for men
I always get beautiful comments when i wear it.

3)Habit rouge edt by Guerlain.
A perfect dandy scent...one i will keep forever.

4)Mitsouko by Guerlain
When i feel lonesome or distant and cold,it is the scent i wear,as a warning for my people.
I adore its sadness made into beauty.
A perfect (the perfect as well for my tastes) fragrance in autumn.

5)Shalimar
I just come to love it.
It is a gourmand leather on my skin and it has so much to say...i am longing to hear all the secrets it has to tell me ;)

6)All the lutens range.
It was a pure discovery for me.
It took me time to appreciate it but it was worth it.
I have found the perfect one for me:Cèdre and i owe that to you,my dear.

7)Ambre précieux by Maitre parfumeur et gantier.
Another wonderful house.
Another dream come true.
How i love amber.

8)Nicolai
For their wonderful house scents and of course SACREBLEU and VANILLE TONKA.

9)CARON
And particularly En avion and narcisse noir.
If you think about elegance,think Caron.

10)Frédéric MALLE,montale,Piguet...
All the other houses i have had the pleasure to know during this year.

My list is the list of someone who just made his first step into the world of fragrances.
So be clement with myself if it sounds not as beautiful as all your lists.

Thanks and hugs and kisses to you my dear and of course to all the people participating on this blog.

Julien.

[Trina]

My goodness! Almost everything here is new to me! Clearly I'm behind in terms of testing things. Great list and lotsa new lemmings!

Happy New Year!

[BoisdeJasmin]

L, I am so happy to hear that you like Carnal Flower and that 100% Love is among your favourites. It is always a pleasure to share my discoveries, and I hope to do more of this in the new year. Thank you for your kind wishes!

[BoisdeJasmin]

S, thank you! I hope that you will find Carnal Flower and Borneo interesting. If you like tuberose and patchouli, respectively, then you are bound to fall in love with them.

[BoisdeJasmin]

Christina, I love Jean Patou Julye, however it is not available to public, because it is used as an example of a kind of fragrance that one can have for 32,000 euros (bespoke service). Still, I will write about JP store in more detail and I will describe it then.

[BoisdeJasmin]

M, Jean Patou fragrances are fascinating, and I find them very interesting, from Joy to Sublime. Of course, as is usually the case, the older version of Joy are better, because the newer one is slightly changed. I swear it is slightly different, despite affirmations to the contrary. Still, it is beautiful.

[BoisdeJasmin]

Jonna, I am pleased to see another Amarige lover too! I also like the new Harvest Edition, which has more mimosa in the heart.

[BoisdeJasmin]

R, thank you. I hope that the new year will bring nothing but happiness and luck to you!

[BoisdeJasmin]

T, aromachemicals are number one, for sure. I love to know what goes into perfume and how it all works. Of course, the list is also alphabetical, but regardless I would have put them at the top.

Your amazing novel was a joy to read during the past month, and I hope that you will continue to write and to give all of us a chance to enjoy your writing. I only wish that in the new year I will see more of it.

[BoisdeJasmin]

Annie, Happy New Year to you too and thank you for a lovely compliment. It is a joy to write about perfume, and I am glad to have this chance.

I hope that you will get a chance to try the vintage Jean Patou fragrances. They are very interesting. I would imagine that you might like Vacances quite a bit.

[BoisdeJasmin]

Risa, thank you. I love smelling various materials, and often I use Jean Carles method (learning materials by constrasting them first, then learning by families) to notice various nuances and to remember them better. Somehow, that is such a fascinating undertaking.

[BoisdeJasmin]

D, it is wonderful that you manage to convince your boyfriend to wear Idole. I think that it might work well on a man as well as on a woman. Of course, it has been wonderful to talk to you in person, and I hope that in the new year we will have that chance again.

Happy New Year!

[BoisdeJasmin]

Thank you, J! Happy New Year to you too. I hope that it will bring lots of wonderful things and lots of luck in all of your endeavours.

[BoisdeJasmin]

L, thank you for your kind words. I am glad I was able to inspire these discoveries. Enjoy your fragrances and have a wonderful New Year celebration!

[BoisdeJasmin]

V, oh, I am very happy to see 100% Love on someone else's list too! It is a beautiful fragrance, and I loved it from the very first time I tried it.

Happy New Year to you!

[BoisdeJasmin]

C, thank you. Your discoveries are very interesting, and I am glad to see that you Bornéo 1834 and Lalique Le Parfum. I find Le Parfum a bit sweeter than I would have liked, but it is so well-made that I do not care. I still wear, and I want a full bottle soon.

Have a wonderful New Year celebration! It is always a pleasure to hear your thoughts on perfumes and to share mine.

[BoisdeJasmin]

Whitebar, thank you for your kind words. I am glad that you are also enjoying Bornéo 1834 as much as I do. I love everything about it, from the effervescence of patchouli to the darkness of its drydown. Perfect fragrance for this time of the year, in addition to everything else.

Happy New Year!

[BoisdeJasmin]

Julien, your list is wonderful, and it sounds like you have made many interesting discoveries. Therefore, I hope that 2006 will be just as good and that it will bring many new and special things to you. By the way, I discovered Opium for Men thanks to you, so thank you for mentioning it in the first place!

Happy New Year!

[BoisdeJasmin]

Trina, thank you. Glad to inspire new quests. :) Have a wonderful New Year and I wish you best of luck in 2006.

[julien]

Happy new year to you.
May 2006 be a year full of love and peaceful times for the heart and the mind...may you and the people you love be blessed and have health (without it,everything's wrong).
That's all i wish:health,love and peace.

By the way,i did not meet you in real,but i am very happy to read your blog which gives me the chance to express myself.
You are a very sweet person...and i feel so happy to share my points of view with you.

Hugs and love and kisses.
Take care,and happy new year.
j.

[BoisdeJasmin]

Thank you for your sweet words, Julien, and may the new year be wonderful in all respects for you too. It is a pleasure to hear your impressions of various fragrances, and I hope to see more of them in 2006. The Happiest of New Years to you!

[koneko]

Best wishes to you for a wonderful new year, dear V!
I am very excited to try Carnal Flower! I am currently testing Caron Tubereuse (You and D had it on your Best of Summer list) and now I really want to try this one!

[BoisdeJasmin]

M, I hope that you will have lots of great new adventures in 2006 and that all of your wishes will come true. Carnal Flower is gorgeous, and I dare say, it is even lovelier than Caron Tubereuse, which is a touch too sweet. I would be curious what you think about it. BTW, I also really like Marc Jacobs Perfume.

[Anya]

Dear V, what I enjoy most about your reviews is how you write from the heart and soul, inserting your life experiences and emotions into the descriptions. MWAH -- many kisses sent your way for your generous spirit.

Happy New Year!

[Patty]

Such a wonderful list. I have found so many new things thanks to you, it is always a pleasure to come and visit your blog! I am anxious to try the Idole de Lubin next month. My very best wishes to a joyous new year filled with elegantly composed perfumes of significance! :)

[kyahgirl]

oh my gosh woman, now look what you've done! I've overrun with lemmings!!

Happy New Year V :-)

Laura

[mreenymo]

V, I love your list! And, thanks to you, perhaps I have fallen in love again with my on-again-off-again relationship with Guerlain. :):) In 2006, I hope to test all of their re-issues and then some. Like Patty, I may even get my paws on a bottle of Idole de Lubin.

I wonder what discoveries 2006 will bring?

Love you! Happy New Year, darling.

Hugs!

[debra_b]

I'm so jealous - you've actually used the monclins at Patou! And I feel proud to share Eau des Merveilles between our two lists - since i just dabble, but you really know what you're talking about :>) Borneo 1834, i've only experienced in the wax sample, and nearly swooned. And now you are making me want to try Idole de Lubin, when i've been busily stopping my ears every time it's mentioned. Looking forward to a fragrant 2006!

[Christine]

Wow! Fun idea! I just spent the evening reading everyone's lists and drooling over all of the great fragrances mentioned. I am in awe of your knowledge and I look forward to my daily doze of Bois de Jasmine after I get home from work. Happy and fragrant 2006 to you!

[Qwendy]

Dear V,
It's been such a pleasure to "know" you this year -- I'm such a perfume- and blog- and pastry- and shoe-
scatterbrain, I SO admire your ability to systematically study and share your perfume passion with all of us! At the end of next year I'll have more time to dabble in all of the above and I hope to grow by leaps and bounds, like you! BTW, how do I find out more about the Jean Carles et al ideas for learning more about notes etc?
I wish you everything you wish for yourself for the New Year.

[Cait]

Happy New Year!

Aromachemicals are my aspiration for 2006, as well as another trip to Paris. You have led me to lots of good information and discoveries. Thank you.

[BoisdeJasmin]

Anya, thank you for your kind wishes! I hope that the next year will be both great and productive for you.

[BoisdeJasmin]

Patty, I am very happy to hear this! I cannot wait for you to get your own Idole de Lubin bottle. The fragrance is wonderful, and I hope that you will enjoy it as much as I did when I first tried it. The bottle itself is stunning.

Happy New Year!

[BoisdeJasmin]

Laura, I feel very guilty! Well, not really. :) Happy New Year to you!

[BoisdeJasmin]

R, thank you! I am glad I inspired you to turn back to Guerlain, because the House has done some fascinating things this year, and I hope that the trend will continue. You, for your part, inspired me to revisit Shalimar and I purchased a bottle of parfum.

Happy New Year to you!

[BoisdeJasmin]

Debra, the cocktail bar at Jean Patou boutique is a lot of fun, and the monclins are lovely--the size of cognac glasses, but slighly heavier. Rather fun to use for smelling essences and synthetics.

I am very happy to see Eau des Merveilles on your list too. It is a brilliant composition, and it is the only fragrance (along with No.5 and No.19), in which I have the EDT and the parfum (and the ancillary products).

[BoisdeJasmin]

Christine, thank you for your nice compliment. I am glad to hear this. Enjoy a great New Year celebration and a fun 2006!

[BoisdeJasmin]

Wendy, thank you for your kind words. It has been a pleasure to share thoughts on perfumery with you and to hear yours. What started as a hobby when I was a child, seems to have taken over my life. Jean Carles method--here is the reference: Carles,J. Une methode de creation en pariumerie,Recherches, Dec 1961.

Happy New Year to you!

[BoisdeJasmin]

Cait, I am very happy to hear this. Happy New Year to you too! I hope that in 2006 all of your wishes will come true.

[kristen]

I am so happy to see Parfum des Merveilles on your list! The Eau is one of my all time favorites...now the hunt for the Parfum begins...I think it is time to add it to my collection!

[Katie]

I'm on the vintage hunt every so often myself, though I keep finding myself drawn to the same houses over and over, rather than any sort of wide ranging arc of curiosity. My inexplicable love for Jacques Fath is especially the most vibrant one. I think what I love most about smelling scents older than I am is the insight it gives me into history. Not just the history of perfumery or whatever - it's what ladies and gents used to think smelled good way back when. I like to think I'm smelling lost times. To compare that to what's popular socially now is so weirdly interesting.

[BoisdeJasmin]

Kristen, I think you will definitely like it. I found myself being addicted to it and wearing Parfum des Merveilles almost every other day since I bought it. Now, this is very rare for me.

[BoisdeJasmin]

Katie, I recently found a bottle of Iris Gris by Jacques Fath, and it is amazing (even after all of these years). Iris and orange blossom--perfection, as far as I am concerned. I completely understand why you are enchanted with the house.

Yes, the most interesting aspect of vintage fragrance is a contemplation on what was popular then and is popular now. Of course, there is no easier time travel method than via scent!

[Parisjasmal]

Inspiring list dear V. You write so beautifully.
I always learn something from your blog!

xo
Parisjasmal

[BoisdeJasmin]

Jen, thank you! I am glad you enjoy it. Hope that your new year is starting well.

[annE]

Dear V,
Happy New Year to you! 2005 was a year of great olfactory discovery for me, and I have learned so much, and enjoyed every moment, on your wonderful blog. Your mention of Gris Clair will have me adding one more item to my list of scents to search out. :) I appreciate all the work you do, and it's been a pleasure to get to "know" you, and others, here. Cheers to another year of dabbing and sniffing!

[BoisdeJasmin]

Ann, thank you for such a wonderful compliment. I am glad to have you among my readers and it is great to share thoughts on fragrance with others who love it. Like you, I am very excited about Gris Clair, and since I like Encens et Lavande, I cannot wait to try it.

Happy New Year to you too!