Perfume Review: Chanel No 19

Star rating: 5 stars--outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars--very good, 3 stars--adequate, 2 stars--disappointing, 1 star--poor.

Chanel No. 19 needs no words of praise because its beauty renders them superfluous. Its seemingly difficult facets—the aggressive verdancy of galbanum, the woody duskiness of iris—are arranged in such an exquisitely harmonious manner that one cannot but admire how the accords meld into each other, from the emerald dew of the top notes to the leathery suppleness of the base.

The number 19 refers to Coco Chanel's birthday, August 19th. The story goes that No.19 was her personal fragrance; however, this is unlikely, since the perfume was composed only in 1970, less than a year before her death. No. 19 was created by the Chanel in-house perfumer Henri Robert, who is also responsible for the chypre austerity of Pour Monsieur (1955) and the shimmery bite of Cristalle EDT (1974). Robert created only a few fragrances for the house; however, his contribution cannot be measured by the number of perfumes linked to his name. Being responsible for maintaining the quality of Chanel No. 5, searching out the best quality materials and adapting the formula for the parfum de toilette and eau de toilette, Robert has to be credited for the continuing success of No. 5. ...

And yet No. 19 remains a testament to his talent as an artist. It is said that upon approaching the Taj Mahal, one is teased by its ornate whiteness looming in the distance, until suddenly the magnificent edifice is right before one's eyes. In No. 19, the iris magically transports one from the soft luminosity of florals into the intensity of a leather-vetiver embrace. The elegance of No. 19 is underscored by the seductive allure of its seemingly chilly effect. A few rose de mai petals caught among moss covered roots conjure a passionate yearning constrained by feelings of decorum. At a time when women are encouraged to smell like chocolate covered confections, No. 19, with its strength and regal beauty, proves that femininity is not defined by "sugar, spice and everything nice." That being said, lacking sweetness or floral opulence, No. 19 would definitely be suitable for a man, especially in the EDT and EDP concentrations, where the accent falls upon the vetiver and leather.  If I were to choose between concentrations, the EDT and the parfum would be my preferred picks, for the radiance of iris-vetiver and the richness of iris-leather, respectivelly.

I admit that revisiting classical perfumes is a frustrating ordeal, because they are either no longer extant or only available as pale versions of their former selves. Of course, as many ingredients become untenable either because of ethical, economical or health reasons, the reformulation is only an expected outcome. Although still very good, Chanel No. 19 is no longer the same. The alteration must have been quite recent, because I have a bottle of the perfume purchased two years ago, and it is still true to the original beauty. I would recommend assessing the colour, which should be green-beige, rather than emerald (or dark green). Instead of the passionate vetiver and leather interplay subdued by iris, the composition meanders before fading into the slightly attenuated vetiver and musk base. However, the parfum concentration is still superior to the EDT and the EDP. Altered or not, No. 19 still remains a perfume to admire.

A side note on galbanum, fragrance and politics. When Chanel No 19 was created in 1971, it was formulated with a superb grade of Iranian galbanum oil, which was sourced especially for it. However, when the Iranian Revolution broke out in 1979, the oil became unavailable. No 19 had to be reformulated, which was accomplished with much difficulty, because the original galbanum oil was of a particularly fine, rare caliber.

Chanel No. 19 includes notes of galbanum, hyacinth, neroli, bergamot, jasmine, rose, lily of the valley, iris, vetiver, sandalwood, leather, musk. Chanel fragrances are available directly from Chanel, Gloss.com, Sephora, and various other retailers.

Ad from Images de Parfums.

Comments

[Viktor Nilsson]

Thank you dear V for this review. So the No. 19 I have gotten to know is just a shadow of its former self? Then the original must be to die for. No. 19 is definately a scent that I'd be more than willing to wear, actually you just made me even more tempted to buy it!

So galbanum is the fascinating, aggressive and rough topnote? What other scents have a prominent note of galbanum? I remember you mentioned Balmain Vent Vert had 8%! I have to try that one.

[Anya]

It's 7 a.m., the window is open, birds cawing (crows, blue jays) the overhead fan is going, and the day is starting, and me, never a lover of No. 19, decides to go and get my vintage EdP and Cologne to play with after such an insightful review. The EdP, green, floral, and the leather already showing through, goes on my wrist, the cologne on my elbow. The EdP quickly settles down, and the cologne's bright, minty note (!) surprises me. They both quickly fade on my skin, which must be my chemistry, the EdP now five minutes old, the clean musky skin scent lovely, the cologne vaporized!

Enjoy them both a lot more now, thanks to your review, V, just amazed at their lack of tenacity on my skin -- heck, most naturals last a lot longer! LOL. Lovely, lovely, fleeting perfumes. I shall pop them in my purse for reapplication during the day, just to see them over time, in different settings as I go about my meetings and errands.

[Katie]

Galbanum is one of those notes I struggle with like a difficult novel. In both cases I know ultimately I will be rewarded, but nevertheless I find myself wrestling it until I find an ephiphany of understanding.

I know this is one of Tania's faves, too - I know I have samples of it somewhere around here and need to give a whack. (Gah, somewhere! I can never remember my own "filing" system sadly.)

[Judith]

Beautiful review of a beautiful scent! I can't believe they reformulated this--are they just trying to drive us crazy? Who do they think their audience is, anyway? I am so glad that my small bottle of the parfum is several years old, beige-green, and glorious!

[Marina]

Wonderful review. Makes me want to go on eBay straightaway and try to find a seemingly older bottle.

[BoisdeJasmin]

Viktor, interestingly enough, I wore the recent version of No. 19 EDP, and half through the day I started wondering which of the guys in my office is wearing this strong vetiver perfume. It had a distinct musky edge which I did not remember from the original. The original has the most beautiful transition from the green top notes to the soft floral heart and then to the leathery base. The beautiful harmony that made No. 19 an example of French perfumery at its best is simply gone. Nevertheless, it is still worth trying, even in its altered form.

As for galbanum, Vent Vert had an overdose of it. Guerlain Parure has a nice galbanum top, so is Lorenzo Villoresi Incensi. It rarely appears in its full glory, because it is a difficult note and most people do not care for it.

Here is what the colour of No. 19 should be (perhaps, a tiny bit greener):
http://www.osmoz.com/encyclo/marques/parfums_fiche.asp?ID=237&CATEGORIE=PARFUM&LANGUE=en

[BoisdeJasmin]

Anya, I am puzzled, because No. 19 is definitely not fleeting, especially in the vintage version. I recently purchased a vintage duo of EDT and EDC, but they arrived damaged--thin and weak. Thankfully, the seller took them back and offered a replacement. Even the EDC is very long lasting, although not as long lasting as the EDT. Of coures, body chemistry is another factor to consider.

[BoisdeJasmin]

Katie, I find that galbanum is one of those strange notes that are appealing, even though they are not conventionally attractive. And yet, the sliced green pepper note is what I crave at times. As for No. 19, you should definitely sample it!

[BoisdeJasmin]

Judith, it was a sad realization for me. I suppose that as the prices of iris butter continue to climb (it is around $20,000 per pound for the top quality,) the houses will be forced to substitute less and less expensive ingredients. One can only cherish one's vintage finds.

[BoisdeJasmin]

M, it is a beautiful fragrance, and at least, it is still being made. You should be able to find an older bottle.

[Linda]

I am now beating myself up for giving away a bottle of No. 19. I thought that I would never wear it, but now that I grew to love iris, I miss it.

[Donna]

Great review, V! I also noticed that it has lost some depth, but I attributed this to my changing tastes. Speaking of color, my old bottle was like the one in the advert. That's ok, right?

[violetnoir]

Ah, no. 19, my lucky number, too.

I wore this "back in the day" and loved every moment of it. Since its formulation has changed, I don't think I will ever wear it again, but I thank you for bringing back fragrant memories.

Hugs and love!

[Helene]

I went to take a closer look at my old bottle of Chanel no.19 edt because in my mind it has always looked a light emerald green. Perceptions of color do differ from person to person, but mine is nowhere as yellow/beige as in the Osmoz catalogue???? I bought it several years ago in Paris. Even back in the late 1970s it was a lovely, pronounced green, a trademark color it was I would say; my parents liked to buy it to make gifts of perfumes. Mine is more like there are some very light yellow reflections in the green than the reverse. At any rate, it smells wonderful. Of course, I'm only used to using the edt concentration in the summer, so maybe it's different for the other concentrations.

[BoisdeJasmin]

L, believe me, I have done this too on many occasions. I gave up a whole Jean Patou Ma Collection in the moment of insanity. Thankfully, I found it again.

[BoisdeJasmin]

D, thank you. I just took out my bottles and compared them side by side. I wish I had my camera near to take photos. The parfum purchased two years ago is beige-green, more like the advertisement. It is a bit lighter than this:
http://www.sell.com/2NLSH

The older EDT and EDC are greener, but still have some beige/yellow tone to them. The modern EDP is translucent emerald. Here is an example of the new one:
http://www.edbydesign.com/books/B00062O0TO.html

[BoisdeJasmin]

R, if 19 is your lucky number, perhaps it is still worth rivisiting it. :)

[BoisdeJasmin]

Helene, thank you for mentioning this. The parfum is generally darker (closer to Osmoz photo), while the EDT is like what you are describing--green with some yellow/beige tones. I also always associate No. 19 with green, but when I recently saw the intense emerald green of the EDT, I was shocked. Of course, another factor is age--some ingredients change colour with time, therefore the greeness might become less pronounced with time. Nevertheless, even if No. 19 is not the exact same perfume, it is still excellent and a very good example of green perfume genre. I will continue to enjoy it even in the altered form.

[Robin]

I have been trying to decide for some time if I actually like 19, or if I just admire it. Once again you've inspired me to drag out the sample!

[BoisdeJasmin]

R, I would be interested in hearing your thoughts. I think that it is a gorgeous fragrance. I have it in more concentrations than any other perfume in my collection, and I love it, changed or not.

[marchlion]

It took me awhile to grow into this one. Three or four years ago I was delighted to discover I was ready! Now I am sad reading your review that I may have missed my opportunity. The reformulations almost never seem for the better, do they? I am trying to think of one I like... actually, I like the new YSL Opium better, I think.

[BoisdeJasmin]

March, there are cases of reformulations that plain kill the fragrance (Givenchy L'Interdit), change but preserve the character (Lanvin Arpege) and change slightly to replace ingredients, reduce the cost of formula, etc. It is in that latter category that most reformulations fall (although in the process they can be devastating). I would not say that No. 19 is radically different, but if you have worn it for a number of years, you would notice the difference (or by comparing the vintage and the modern versions, taking care not to let the natural process of ingredients aging and thus changing affect the verdict). The main difference to me is the iris note--it is not as rich. Since the entire composition was based on iris overdose, the change in the iris will change the effect. So, if you are wondering whether to seek it out or not, go for it, especially if you are considering the parfum (seems to be truer to the original)! It is simply a classical and a true gem. Maybe, the answer was longer than you wanted, but I just wanted to underscore this point again.

[Anya]

Dear V, my EdP looks exactly like the juice in the ozmoz pic, except it says EdP and Paris New York. It is lovely, and definitely vintage, as is the cologne. I never appreciated them as much as I do now, after your review -- you opened my eyes to their beauty, and I spent effort to really absorb the notes and drydown, however fleeting. In the past, it was so "not my style" i dabbed some on and soon washed it off. It is similar as to how I may have treated Vent Vert in the past -- not my style, feh. I'm getting more acceptable as I get older, but only for vintages, I find ;-) The modern pink, ozone, marine, harsh synth-laden stuff is a turn off.

That said, my body chemistry does not agree with this, and as with anything under 18K, or platinum in the metals, simply eats it away. Some perfumes are like that on me -- less than an hour, total, yet on someone else six hours.

[Tania]

Someone gave me a vintage mini of the EDP as a swap extra once and it made me feel like someone had taken the top of my head off and shined pure light into it. I mean, THIS is what fragrance is supposed to smell like! I had only tried the current EDT before, and while it had this remarkable warm green vegetal quality of fantastic endurance, I found it mostly impressive but not moving. The presence of a gorgeous floral-leather heart in the vintage EDP stunned me. It felt like what I had been waiting for my whole fragrance-obsessed life. I have a half ounce of the parfum that I hoard and cherish, and every time I wear it I feel a little like I've walked out of the house dripping in real diamonds.

[BoisdeJasmin]

Anya, I think that you are right--it is a good idea to try fragrances even if you think that they are not exactly your style. As someone who creates perfumes, you must find that inspiring. I myself do not like pink and ozonic. I wish that the trend for transparent pink fruity-florals would pass.

[BoisdeJasmin]

Tania, that is really how I encountered No.19. Someone gave me a small bottle of the parfum, and it changed my points of reference completely. Perfection of it is quite striking.

[cait]

utterly inspiring review of a gobsmackingly great perfume. wearing it now, spritzed from the department store after reading this post. i also adore the image you chose.

[BoisdeJasmin]

Cait, thank you. Even the current version is great!

[Campaspe]

wonderful review that also makes me want to re-try this classic, though I personally always found it a bit too sporty for my taste. I picture it on a tennis-playing, outdoorsy, but quite rich sort of woman. Of course not one of these terms applies to me! This was the signature scent of a very upper-crust woman I worked with at the newspaper, and it suited her to a T.

[BoisdeJasmin]

F, you absolutely must try it. Actually, I would recommend Annick Goutal Heure Exquise as well. It has the floral intensity that the reformulation 19 has lost.

[Kristina]

I'm new to commenting your astonishing reviews, although not to reading them! No.19 is one of my favorites, and it's definitely DH's number 1 on me. I have it in both the old and new versions (EdT, EdP and extrait), and to my nose they are so similar I wouldn't be able to tell the older ones from the new ones with my eyes closed, but maybe that's just me. (I'm thinking though that the new color, i.e. the darker green, might influence one to think of the fragrance differently. I mean, the color is there for a reason, to steer us into a certain direction when it comes to how we perceive the scent.) Reformulated or not, on me this is a very lovely and soft white floral with hints of leather in it (new gloves leather) and contrary to many others I find it very feminine. Thanks for a wonderfully inspiring review!

[BoisdeJasmin]

Kristina, it is a pleasure! I loved your comment about new gloves leather note in No. 19. I am glad to hear that you are enjoying it too. The colour does not matter much to me, but it is just a useful factor to consider if one might be looking for a vintage bottle. I find the older version is richer on iris. It is one of my favourite notes, and I have always loved it in No. 19. Perhaps, that is the reason I am sensitive to this particular element. Ultimately, No. 19 is a beautiful composition, in any of its forms.

[Doetie]

First of all: As a fragrance addicted, Dutch girl I just love your site and reviews! And for a long time now I really adore Chanel no. 19 But never read a more catching story about it then yours. I just discovered and bought an old refill of 6 ml perfume and was so happy that I kept the 'holder' (prob. not the right word) for years in my drawer! As you already mentioned: The perfume is absolutely the best.

[BoisdeJasmin]

Doetie, thank you very much for your lovely compliment. I am glad that you have enjoyed my review. I adore No 19, and what seems amazing is how beautiful and artistic it is. A perfect example of French perfumery at its best. Like you, I find the parfum to be excellent.

[Valnum]

Hi, it is the first time I post a comment on your blog. First let me say that I love to read your great reviews!
As you, I love N°19, but I'm a quite new lover - I discovered it only last year. I received a big sample of the edt, and on the first spray I disliked it! After a long time, I decided to test it again, and I was good inspired: how could I dislike it before? What a mistake! My husband offered me the edp for my latest birthday (he prefers to offer me edp, he says it's "richer" than edt :-) ).I think N°19 has a so great quality. I haven't yet the chance to smell the vintage version but I hope I will find one bottle soon.
Thanks again for your great blog!

[BoisdeJasmin]

Valnum, thank you very much. Like you, I find No. 19 to be enchanting. It is one of the most elegant fragrances I own, and it is stunningly beautiful in all respects. I also did not like it at the very first sniff some years ago when I first tried it, but it quickly grew on me. Just beautiful!

[BoisdeJasmin]

Valnum, I just noticed that your comment got deleted during the typepad update. You must have posted it just as servers were switching. I apologize for it. I am going to reproduce it here (it arrived by email to me):

Hi, it is the first time I post a comment on your blog. First let me say that I love to read your great reviews!
As you, I love N°19, but I'm a quite new lover - I discovered it only last year. I received a big sample of the edt, and on the first spray I disliked it! After a long time, I decided to test it again, and I was good inspired: how could I dislike it before? What a mistake! My husband offered me the edp for my latest birthday (he prefers to offer me edp, he says it's "richer" than edt :-) ).I think N°19 has a so great quality. I haven't yet the chance to smell the vintage version but I hope I will find one bottle soon.
Thanks again for your great blog!

[Sandra in Dallas]

I am a huge fan of AG's "Heure Exquis" and have heard that Chanel 19 is very similar, anyone here know both scents and care to comment?

[Aimee in Austin]

I want to thank you for an inspiring review. It helped me find my holy grail, no. 19 parfum, before I even knew a green chypre *was* my holy grail. I've learned so much over the past few months reading your reviews compulsively, and my perfume palate has quickly expanded from snuggly wuggly to juices with some bite, some elegance and lots of history to spur the imagination. I love knowing what to look for in a vintage vs. reformulated packaging, as well. It enables my quickly growing ebay habit. :^)

[vol de nuit]

I have been reading your site avidly since my recent discovery of it, and I wanted to tell you that your reviews are a tremendous pleasure to read. I've already learned so much in the short time I've been reading along here. Your review of No. 19 has moved me so much (I am only just learning what scents I have a tropism to in perfume) that I cannot wait to go to the Chanel counter to try it for myself. Iris, vetiver and leather sound heavenly. In admiration, Leah.

[Angela baker]

I have a very small bottle of Chanel No. 19 which I have had for about 20 years, it still has its wax seal, would it be ok if I ever decided to use it?

[Victoria]

Is the liquid very dark? If so, I wouldn't use it. No 19's green notes tend to deteriorate quickly.
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