Fougère and chypre are the fragrance families that share some similarities in their classical interpretations, the main of which is the reliance on the fresh top notes and the somber richness of patchouli and oakmoss in the base, which result in a surprising juxtaposition of sensations. While both possess quintessentially masculine notes, the fougères tend to be more common in men’s fragrances. Indeed, masculine perfumery includes plenty run of the mill fougères (usually copies of highly successful Cool Water by Davidoff), which are so ubiquitous that one can hardly be excited by them. Yet, the best of this category present such a fascinating olfactory journey that they must be tried just for that experience. Such is Equipage, created by Guy Robert and Jean-Louis Sieuzac in 1970 for Hermès. The list of fragrances attributed to these perfumers reads like a compilation of perfume legends: Robert created Hermès Calèche, Christian Dior Dioressence, Madame Rochas; and Christian Dior Dune, Fahrenheit, Yves Saint Laurent Opium were composed by Sieuzac. Not surprisingly, Equipage is another gem. …
Equipage has a multifaceted top accord spilling in cascades of sweet spices accented by the slightly medicinal pungency of herbs. The dominant note of clove gently merges into the floral softness of carnation, slowly leading one into the chilled cavern of vetiver and oakmoss. The duskiness of the base set against the radiance of spices conjures a vision of sunshine refracted through the opaque glass of old churches--its glow is dimmed, and yet it is enough to illuminate the outlines of the kneeling figures painted in burnished gold.
Equipage has a slightly conservative air, restrained and elegant like most classical Hermès fragrances, even the more controversial Bel Ami. The lush note of carnation blossoming in its heart adds a floral touch that prevents the composition from attaining an overly virile presence. It is a great fragrance providing such an excellent example of Robert and Sieuzac’s talent that I would consider it a loss for myself, if I were to relegate it solely to the masculine domain. Certainly, on a man who loves classically elegant and formal fragrances, it would be perfect.
Equipage was relaunched in 1992, and while the formula has not been changed dramatically, it seems slightly softer than my older version. As I compare them side by side, I notice more vetiver and oakmoss in the 1980s edition, while the recent one I have obtained is mellower. In whatever guise, Equipage remains a composition to admire. In the excellent array of Hermès masculines, it is the embodiment of elegance and complex beauty of classical fougères.
Equipage features notes of marjoram, clary sage, tarragon, carnation, lily of the valley, cinnamon, pine needles, hyssop, liatris, patchouli, vetiver, oakmoss, amber, coumarin, and tonka bean. It is sold at the Hermès boutiques and other retailers carrying the line, such Neiman Marcus.
Ad from psine.net.
This sounds perfectly wonderful---yes, classical Hermes ARE slightly conservative, restrained and elegant. I would love to sample this. The list of notes is exciting! As I've mentioned before, my favorite newly released scent is Terre d'Hermes, which we got for D in Paris. I'm so envious of him. At any rate, this sounds like another Hermes winner!
Posted by: Laura | June 01, 2006 at 05:38
I am a huge fan of Guy Robert's perfumes. I would love for him to do a perfume for
Frederic Malle. If anyone has friends in high places, please pass this suggestion on!!!
Posted by: Nick | June 01, 2006 at 07:26
Sounds wonderful. I am slowly discovering and re-discivering the Hermes fragrances, and the thing is...everything I smell I like. I don't think there is a scent in their line that I wouldn't wear. Well, 24 Faubourg is a challenge for me to wear, but still...
Posted by: Marina | June 01, 2006 at 08:56
Lovely review of a really wonderful fragrance. You've inspired me to drag out my sample again, and one of these days I'll have to buy a real bottle.
Posted by: Robin | June 01, 2006 at 14:32
Thank you for showcasing my favorite men's scent, which I also love to wear, though it's even sexier and oh-so-classy on men.
Posted by: minette | June 01, 2006 at 14:51
L, it has a great carnation note, which is what probably makes it interesting to me. In general, I cannot think of a single Hermes I dislike. Well, I am not as fond of Rouge as I used to think I was.
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | June 01, 2006 at 18:18
Nick, now that would be great! He has done some great work for Amouage as well. I love nearly everything he has created.
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | June 01, 2006 at 18:21
M, Equipage is great--lots of character and a wonderful signature. What more can one ask for?
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | June 01, 2006 at 18:22
R, I am glad to hear this! It is a fragrance I cannot imagine being without. I love to study how it unfolds on the skin--from the agrestic burst in the top notes to warm spices, to soft carnation, to seductive vetiver...
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | June 01, 2006 at 18:24
Minette, I am glad to see another woman enjoying this remarkable classic. I agree with you that on a man it is stunning and very sexy.
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | June 01, 2006 at 18:25
Victoria, I've not tried this one, and now that you have highlighted the carnation I will do so, even though I am a little afraid of the vetiver lurking nearby...
Also, is it possible that they have changed the formulation of 24, Faubourg recently (or an ingredient?) I tried on my mother-in-law's bottle yesterday, which she's had for some time, and either I'm losing my mind or it's sweeter than I remember. I offered the bottle to my sister-in-law (we are tidying up the house) and the face she made! I had no idea how much she disliked it. Well, then, it's mine.:-)
Posted by: marchlion | June 01, 2006 at 20:00
March, it does have plenty of vetiver, therefore I doubt that you would like it enough to wear it. However, you might admire it nevertheless.
I would not be surprised if 24, Faubourg has been tweaked. Caleche certainly was. I have a bottle of EDP from a couple of years ago, but I have not tried anything more recent.
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | June 02, 2006 at 00:15
Mystery solved! The reason I never see it at home is because it's men's perfume, and I generally look at the women's counters, whereas in airports they put all the perfume together.
That being said, I think it's excellent for a woman, in the Chanel No. 19 "cold-hearted bitch" way. Since Chanel No. 19 tends to smell putrid with my body chemistry, maybe I will buy a bottle for when I need to destroy my frenemy's life. :)
Posted by: SF | October 23, 2011 at 22:19
i just got this. I smelled it when I was wating for my flight home in Heathrow and could not find it in Canada. finally, i got it at Hermes in Calgary. one has to take this scent in strides. not the kind to bathe in for sure. Unlike Terr d'hermes, this one stays all day and soften as the day goes.
Posted by: Clay | December 19, 2011 at 00:41