To smell alluring one would never expect to don the scent of rubber and smoke. Yet, Bvlgari Black with its smoke and resin accords that oscillate between dark roasted lapsang souchong tea and rubber is one of the most sensual fragrances I have tried. Its sensuality is not the skintight silk dress seduction of Robert Piguet Fracas or the strawberries and champagne charm of Yves Saint Laurent Yvresse. Black is Marlene Dietrich in the 1930’s film “The Blue Angel.” It is thrilling, smouldering and daring. Nothing about it is conventionally beautiful. The best way to describe it is arresting. ...
The genius of the perfumer Annick Ménardo is especially apparent in Black, a composition that is marked by beautiful harmony, incredible depth and complexity. She takes the familiar and industrial scents of smoke and rubber and presents the fragrance as anything but predictable. Black was one of the first fragrances that revealed to me the difference between pleasant and striking. While I have tried many avant-garde and often quite surprising scents since Black came out in 1998, I often keep returning to it, being fascinated by its unique and memorable composition. I credit Black for turning me from an almost exclusive white floral lover into an olfactory omnivore.
Black balances between tarry notes and resinous leather. The heart of rubber and woods is dark and smoky. From the first inhale, Black maintains a distinctive character, and even if one is wont to recoil from it, within seconds one wishes to smell it again. As it develops, Black gains a subtle oriental character. The vanilla and amber lend a gentle sweetness, which rounds out the composition. The assertive smoke and resin notes assume a smooth and warm quality in the drydown. If Black started out like a cloud of smoky vapours, it attains a dark vintage cashmere allure.
Although technically Black is based on the tarry lapsang souchong, given its strength and complexity, it is difficult to place it alongside the wispy and minimalist Bulgari tea lineup which is comprised of Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert, Eau Parfumée au Thé Blanc, and Eau Parfumée au Thé Rouge. While it would be an edgy fragrance on a woman, Black would likewise be spectacular on a man. After all, there are no gender boundaries when beauty is concerned.
Bulgari Black features notes of bergamot, smoky tea, jasmine, cedarwood, sandalwood, leather, amber, musk, vanilla, resins. It is available from Saks5thAvenue, Neiman Marcus and various other retailers carrying Bvlgari. European shoppers can also find it at Escentual.
Photo of Marlene Dietrich from "The Blue Angel," the-sisterhood.net.
What a lovely review - I always enjoy reading them, even if I know I probably won't like the fragrance!
What I like the most about this scent is the way she has rendered notes that should smell harsh into a well-ordered composition - like some syncopated melody that creates a beautiful harmony. I think 'arresting' is the perfect way to describe it! It is a lovely scent for autumn.
Posted by: Jason | November 15, 2006 at 02:48
Beautiful review of a beautiful fragrance. Unfortunately Black deflates to a nondescript vanilla pudding on me after an hour. For those it works it is splendid, though.
Posted by: Håkan Nellmar | November 15, 2006 at 04:12
"After all, there are no gender boundaries when beauty is concerned." What a wonderful thought to start my day out with. :-) I so agree. Bulgari Black really is just stunning and was wonderfully unique when it came out.
Posted by: Elle | November 15, 2006 at 07:47
Well, you know, this is just a wonderful fragrance. And I think Annick Menardo is one of my favorite perfumers. Thank you for the review!
Posted by: Judith | November 15, 2006 at 07:58
What a gripping review! I must try this fragrance soon.
Posted by: kuri | November 15, 2006 at 08:21
Amazing review! I love the movie reference as well. I'm quite intrigued now and will try it out as soon as I can get my hands on it. I don't know why I've waited so long.
Posted by: Flor | November 15, 2006 at 08:30
Annick Menardo can do no wrong where I am concerned. For things like this and Bois d'Argent and Bois d'Armenie and Patchouli 24, I've even forgiven her my arch-enemy, Lolita Lempicka :-D
Thank you for a wonderful review!
Posted by: Marina | November 15, 2006 at 08:31
Ah, one of my all-time favourites! As soon as I saw the title of today's review, I got all ecstatic and spritzed some Black on the wrist to enjoy it while reading. Yes, arresting was definitely my first impression, too. Mind you, it never made me recoil :)
Thanks for the lovely review, Vika. I'm going to wear Black today, that is if I manage to work my way around that darn on/off mechanism which I'd broken - it now releases only bashful amounts, which is so frustrating! Arrgh!
P.S. When can we expect a review of your new favourite from the Bois series - Bois Oriental? :)
Posted by: Dusan | November 15, 2006 at 10:05
Marlene, smoke... rubber? I'm not so sure about rubber, but after reading you, this Bandit-lover will give it a try. I know Luca Turin thinks very highly of it, not necessarily a recommendation (I bought Paco Rabanne La Nuit unsniffed and never got his "Tabu on a horse" thing) but certainly an indication of how interesting Bulgari Black is to very different scent aesthetes.
Posted by: carmencanada | November 15, 2006 at 10:05
Well.... I DID finally came to appreciate Bandit... I appreciate Black as a creation, but not so much in person ;-)
Posted by: March | November 15, 2006 at 10:39
Black is very much a European city smell to me - car tires and exhaust fumes, masterfully blended together into an uber-cutting edge scent. I just tried it again yesterday and might need a bottle soon.
Posted by: Ina | November 15, 2006 at 10:56
Marvelous review, V!
I tested Black at the same time that I purchased a bottle of the green tea one from Bulgari.
I need to re-test this one again. It is indeed striking and utterly original.
Hugs!
Posted by: violetnoir | November 15, 2006 at 13:03
Hello,
I really think I'd like this since I love Dzing! But if I adore Dzing! and already have some of Le Labo Patchouli would Black be de rigueur? Hmm, I'm sure I'll pop for Black rather than ponder that question too long. Thanks for the review. Love the photo.
Posted by: Cait | November 15, 2006 at 13:26
As usual, wonderful review V :) I love Black, and you've reminded me I really should have a bottle by now!
Posted by: Anjali | November 15, 2006 at 15:29
Thank you for the wonderful review!
Personally I like Annick`s Patchouli more than Black - just because of Black`s drydown which turning out all-sweet-and-powdery vanilla on me...
Posted by: moon_fish | November 16, 2006 at 00:52
As always a magnificent review: intelligent, sensitive and "culte" (oh dear I just don´t find the word in English). I think describing a perfume comparing it with an ancient film or an ancient glamourous actress og the 30´s or 40´s or ever 5o´s is a wonderful way of describing it. I know Joan Crawford wore Youth Dew and Maria Callas Diorella but what was Lana Turner´s scent, or Lauren Bacall´s. Wouldn´t it be fun to know what perfumes they had? ( I just don´t care what Paris Hilton´s or those kinky celebrities wear).
Your chiken is great and so the presentation of the photo.
Fins aviat!
Posted by: Laia | November 16, 2006 at 04:37
Dear Victoria,
Very lovely review as usual. Sounds very smoky, vanilla like and smoldering. I'm not sure how I would like it. Black Cashmere is very smopky on . Need to wait for the moment it dries down. I just got for a birthdat gift for Ange ou Demon. Very senusual and smoky. but - have to be in the cooler weather. I will check this one out ! Also . I will be travelling to las Vegas for a meeting - any suggestions for solid scents (for travelling ) ? Are you familiar with the travel regs w toiletries ? I know it's Fracas or Hermes rouge . Any more ?
Take care and would love to meet you at some Scent event sometime !
Have a great scented day !
Madelyn E
Posted by: Madelyn E | November 16, 2006 at 08:05
I'm wearing it today. Black was the scent that showed me too that there was more to perfume than jasmine. What struck me about it then was how edgy, androgynous, and new it was. What strikes me about it now is how old-fashioned and classically feminine it is. That plush sweetness comes as such a surprise. So many niche fragrances with a modernist aesthetic try very hard to startle but give you nowhere to rest. You can really put your feet up in Black.
Posted by: Tania | November 16, 2006 at 11:49
Jason, what a great description! "like some syncopated melody that creates a beautiful harmony." It captures the spirit of what Menardo did perfectly. Thank you, I am very glad that you enjoyed the review.
Posted by: Bois de Jasmin | November 16, 2006 at 14:31
Håkan, thank you. Yes, it does dry down to a vanillic, oriental base, but on my skin, however, it is not overly sweet and the smoky whispers remain.
Posted by: Bois de Jasmin | November 16, 2006 at 17:18
Elle, I just remember how amazed I was when I first tried it. Black was so different from everything I wore back then, but it became a fragrance that I could not imagine being without.
Posted by: Bois de Jasmin | November 16, 2006 at 18:01
Judith, she is one of my favourite perfumers as well. No doubt about that!
Posted by: Bois de Jasmin | November 16, 2006 at 18:02
Kuri, thank you! I hope that you will share your thoughts with me.
Posted by: Bois de Jasmin | November 16, 2006 at 18:02
Flor, thank you very much! Black is such a striking fragrance, I think that it is in a league of its own for me.
Posted by: Bois de Jasmin | November 16, 2006 at 18:08
Marina, Bois d'Argent, Bois d'Armenie and Patchouli 24 are excellent. I like Lolita Lempicka and I wore it for a period of time.
Posted by: Bois de Jasmin | November 16, 2006 at 18:10
Dusan, isn't it so special when the perfume just captures your attention from the first moment? I feel this way about Black.
I am working on Bois Oriental review, and I hope that next week I will be able to post it.
Posted by: Bois de Jasmin | November 16, 2006 at 18:11
D, wonderful to see you! For some reason, I always think of you as a fan of Black, but perhaps it is because I think that you might wear it well. Please do try it and let me know what you think.
Posted by: Bois de Jasmin | November 16, 2006 at 18:13
March, maybe one day you will appreciate it in person too. :)
Posted by: Bois de Jasmin | November 16, 2006 at 18:14
Ina, I think that it is a good image. I also find that Black reminds me of a dark jazz club.
Posted by: Bois de Jasmin | November 16, 2006 at 18:15
R (violetnoir), I must say that I admire most of Bulgari creations. They are quite fascinating!
Posted by: Bois de Jasmin | November 16, 2006 at 18:16
Cait, if you like all of those fragrances, then you must try Black!
Posted by: Bois de Jasmin | November 16, 2006 at 18:16
Anjali, thank you! It is wonderful to see you here. My bottle of Black is almost empty, and I will need a backup soon.
Posted by: Bois de Jasmin | November 16, 2006 at 18:24
Sergey, I also agree that Patchouli 24 and Black are similar. I prefer Black, because of its more careful balance, but I also enjoy Patchouli.
Posted by: Bois de Jasmin | November 16, 2006 at 18:29
Laia, thank you very much! I am very glad that you enjoyed the review (and the chicken recipe). I also find it fascinating to know what perfumes actresses of the 30s and 40s wore. A couple of years ago I saw an exhibit of Marlene Dietrich's clothes, and it was unforgettable. She did not seem to be much of a perfume person, based on the exhibit, but she loved to tan and she wore various sun tan oils.
Posted by: Bois de Jasmin | November 16, 2006 at 18:31
Madelyn, I hope so too! I am sure that it will happen soon.
As for flying regulations, you can bring liquids, but you have to pack them in a see-through bag and the bottles cannot be more than 4oz (I believe that it is 4oz, but you should probably check). There are a few solid perfumes--Stella Amber, new Molinard perfumes, Estee Lauder makes solids. Of course, Crazylibellules I posted about are solids.
Posted by: Bois de Jasmin | November 16, 2006 at 18:34
Tania, that is a very good way to describe it. Black starts out as modern and CdG edgy, but the drydown is the retro glamour. I find it difficult to resist.
Posted by: Bois de Jasmin | November 16, 2006 at 18:36
V., you were right about me. I tried Bulgari Black and it has now moved up to the top of the "want and may actually be able to afford" list (as opposed to the Chanel Cuir de Russie parfum, for instance). I would've never made out the Lapsang Souchong / rubber connection without your review, but of course it's there. Yes, Bulgari Black is a strange hybrid creature, post-modern in its juxtaposition of rubber kinkiness and old-fashioned poudre de riz. The perfect butch/femme scent after Bandit.
Posted by: carmencanada | November 21, 2006 at 14:03
D, I am so happy to read this! I knew that you somehow were the one to wear Black. It is just incredible, and it never fails to amaze me.
Posted by: Bois de Jasmin | November 22, 2006 at 00:17