Star rating: 5 stars--outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars--very good, 3 stars--adequate, 2 stars--disappointing, 1 star--poor.
In many ways, Chanel No 22 is the quintessential aldehydic* fragrance. It is difficult for me to envision a better classical treatment of aldehydes. While No 5 is much more well-known and praised, I find the delicate beauty of No 22 to be particularly exquisite. Vivid and tender, it alternates between elegant aloofness and sweet warmth, all the while being polished and seamless. If pearls had a scent, their lustrous smoothness would be redolent of No 22….
With its composition of white flowers, No 22 was launched as a perfume capturing the spirit of White Look. Its creator was Ernest Beaux, a genius perfumer responsible for many Chanel gems, including No 5, Gardénia, Bois des Îles and Cuir de Russie. Some accounts mention that No 22 was one of the samples presented to Coco Chanel when she was looking to launch her first perfume. While she selected the sample that became No 5, No 22 was introduced in 1922, a year after No 5. A classical aldehydic floral, it opens up with the sparkle of aldehydes, their slightly starched and metallic tonality lightening their powdery effect.
The scintillating white foil of aldehydes is a perfect backdrop for the sweet floral accords, softening their opulence and smoothing the heady elements into satiny perfection. The heart of No 22 is comprised of beautifully indolic jasmine, orange blossom, and also the green tartness of lilac and the buttery sweetness of rose. Paired with the woody and vanillic notes of the base, the fragrance assumes a radiant and lush character, with chiffon like lightness.
As is usually the case, the parfum concentration is superior as is the quality of the flower absolutes. The difference between the parfum and the EDT is like that between cake made with dark chocolate and one flavoured with bittersweet cocoa powder. In other words, both are luscious, but the former is much more so. The parfum stays closer to the skin, creating a soft, intimate effect that I prefer to that of the sharper, brighter EDT.
Chanel No 22 is part of Les Exclusifs collection, which also includes Gardénia, Bois des Îles and Cuir de Russie. It is soon to be joined by Coromandel, 28 La Pausa, Bel Respiro, No. 18, 31, rue Cambon, and Eau de Cologne. The official list of notes for No 22 is as follows: orange blossom, peach, citrus, orchid, rose, ylang-ylang, sandalwood, vetiver, vanilla. Available from Chanel boutiques and Gloss.com. Please note that Chanel is changing the packaging of its Les Exclusifs collection; therefore, if you have a preference for the original flacons, be sure to act quickly. Adding to clarify: the parfum versions of the existing Les Exclusifs collection are not being discontinued.
Photo of freshwater pearl from Pearls and Jade.
Dear Victoria,
The sight of the photo of the white pearl is os poignant ..it almost hurts. I, too associate the splendor that is Chanel No. 22 with a quintessential feminine warmth and elegance. Why. Because my farther presented my mother with a one ounce bottle of the No.22 perfume in June 1947--their wedding day. So..I have come to associate this creamy, "white" creation with romantic love. Indeed if No. 5 is the more popular kid on the block, No. 22 would be her shy sister, reticent , demure..in the background. But ,at the same time . capable and confidant.
I prefer what I remember to be the parfum.. as I find the EDT somewhat thin. Sadly, I can only remember finding only the EDT .. during the course of my many perfume excursions.
Thank you dear Victoria for such an eloquent review as only you can compose.
Madelyn E
Posted by: Madelyn E | January 09, 2007 at 02:50
Good morning Victoria,
In the new exclusive ones that you announce, I noticed Bel Respiro. This beautiful composition is a fragrance which evokes the printems: buds in blossoming, stems and sheets. A taste of revival… Waouh
Posted by: aryse | January 09, 2007 at 04:40
OHHHHH...Sorry for printems.I mean spring !!!!!!
Posted by: aryse | January 09, 2007 at 04:44
Dear V,
I think I´ve smelled No.22 once, but can´t remember - which means it didn´t impress me, but as taste changes & I might enjoy it now much more.
As far as I know the parfum version won´t be available anymore as soon as the new collection of EdC 200 ml & 400 ml bottles comes out.
Posted by: Sisonne | January 09, 2007 at 07:24
V -- I haven't been lucky enough to try the parfum (yet! -- but my day is coming...) however, I love the drydown of the EDT, to/on me it smells very much like incense. I'm very much looking forward to Les Exclusifs.
Posted by: March | January 09, 2007 at 07:36
Pretty exquisite stuff-
Heady, indolic, intoxicating...
And I don't even consider myself a natural-born floral girl.
I love to anoint myself in this from time to time...
Posted by: chayaruchama | January 09, 2007 at 08:12
Beautiful review of a beautiful fragrance. I am wondering, though, at the substitution of this for Putain des Palaces. . . Does that (or the name) conjure up Chanel 22?:)
Posted by: Judith | January 09, 2007 at 08:49
Adore Chanel 22 and your review!
Posted by: Marina | January 09, 2007 at 09:49
I have a feeling that my impression of this one would vastly improve if I smelled the parfum. I always thought the EDT was beautiful but too sweet and a little thin. This wouldn't be the first time I latched onto something just when it became unattainable.
Posted by: Tania | January 09, 2007 at 10:41
Cheers Victoria! I adore 22 and your thoughtful review, which so astutely covers that starchy (aldehydic) quality that rather closely mimics iris to my nose. This fragrance is definitely a permanent fixture for me and one everyone should try at least once, I think, for its subtlety, such a contrast to the vividness of 5 and the formality of 19. I long to try the parfum though for lifestyle reasons (ease of application, mainly) the EDT works very well for me. The body lotion, by the way, is markedly more rose-infused than the fragrance and fairly different in character, which I find unusual.
Posted by: Amandampc | January 09, 2007 at 10:47
Beautiful review, as always. Victoria, I remember your mentioning once that you work a certain perfume when you wanted to stay especially focused on your work. I think it was Opium....? I haven't found this comment by searching the blog, but I'm always in need of better concentration, if you'd be so kind.
Posted by: patchamour | January 09, 2007 at 10:53
This one is the powder of all powders for me. I love it even though I don't generally like powders. Turin said that he almost prefered White Linen because he found this one a tad sweet, but I've tried White Linen and I simply don't like it as much, too bright, I think.
Posted by: Tigs | January 09, 2007 at 11:27
In the good old days, No. 22 was sold in drugstores, along with Nos. 5 and 19 and Cristalle. I could buy it at the mall in the old timber town where I grew up. Now it's an Exclusif! No. 22 will always be special to me, since it's the first real perfume I ever wore.
Posted by: AngelaS | January 09, 2007 at 12:28
Dear Victoria,
hi. On another subject . i received yesterday some Guerlain fragrance samples from Bergdorf Goodman. Finally. I was not prepared to fallso hard for Vol De Nuit followed by Apres L'ondee and Eau De Liu. (Rose Kennedy is supposed to have worn that ).
Anyway, I love the history and romance associated with Vol de Nuit - Aeropostale. Antoine de St.Exupery. Authpr of The Little Prince and much more..etc.
I was never able to fully appreciate Guerlain having worn in the distant past Shalimar , Jardin De Bagatelle and more recently Insolence.
Imfact. Insolence reminds me of a combo Apres L'ondee with more vanilla and violet .
I am in trouble now I just bought Soir De Lune.. I think Vol De Nuit may be next if I could get my hands on the parfum extrait .
Warm Scented Regards -
Madelyn E
PS- No luck w the Absinthe lecture. Sadly the email I received said - sold out
Posted by: Madelyn E | January 09, 2007 at 12:55
Madelyn, what a beautiful memory! I find it very touching. I remember my grandfather giving my grandmother a bottle of L'Air du Temps, and to this day, it is such a special fragrance for me. My mother wore it as well.
I agree that the EDT is too thin.
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | January 09, 2007 at 13:27
Aryse, the name alone Bel Respiro sounds beautiful! I cannot wait for the release of these fragrances.
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | January 09, 2007 at 13:32
Aryse, spring is on my mind lately. It is also helping that the weather cannot be more spring-like (an abnormality for these parts!)
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | January 09, 2007 at 13:33
Dear C, I did not hear the parfum discontinuation news, but it would be awful if this were indeed the case!
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | January 09, 2007 at 13:33
March, the EDT and the parfum have the same tinge of incense, although I find it very subtle and more of the sandalwood facet than true incense. The parfum is definitely worth trying!
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | January 09, 2007 at 13:38
Chaya, it is gorgeous, isn't it!
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | January 09, 2007 at 13:39
J, you are too funny! :) I only meant that Putain des Palaces would be the next ELDO review. I find it a bit tedious to write reviews of fragrances from the same house for a few days days in a row, even if they are different. One still has to keep in mind the concept of the line, etc. Putain des Palaces might come tomorrow, or later in the week. I have not decided yet.
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | January 09, 2007 at 13:42
Marina, thank you!
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | January 09, 2007 at 13:44
Tania, it used to be available everywhere. I had the parfum in a 1/4oz spray at one point. Now, it is available only in Paris.
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | January 09, 2007 at 13:59
I'll have to give it another chance. I have a feeling that trying the parfum would make the difference. Another must-do for my spring trip to Paris.
Posted by: Gaia, the non-blonde | January 09, 2007 at 14:16
Amanda, thank you very much for your thoughts on No 22. Now, I am intrigued enough to find the body lotion. I used to love the fact that Chanel had an extensive ancillary collection for their classical scents, but this does not seem to be quite the case these days. Except for No 5, of course.
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | January 09, 2007 at 14:22
Patchamour, Opium is the opposite of that for me, even though I love it. :) If I need to concentrate, I wear something with violet, incense or orange blossom. These scents are calming, which helps with concentration.
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | January 09, 2007 at 14:23
Tigs, White Linen is striking, but I find that it has been reformulated too much. Of course, the parfum is the best in White Linen and very reasonably priced. I got a 2oz spray bottle of parfum for under $40.
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | January 09, 2007 at 14:24
Angela, I know exactly what you mean! Even a few years ago you could find No 19 and No 22 in the parfum freely, and now they are available only in Paris. What a shame!
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | January 09, 2007 at 14:26
Happy New Year! This is way off topic here but I wonder if anyone has been able to get a whiff of Francis Kurkdjian"s Sillage de la Reine? I believe it is at Harrods and of course at Versailles. Out of everybody's price range but someone out there may have a chance to sniff. Just wondering....
patricia
Posted by: Patricia Seybold | January 09, 2007 at 14:28
Madelyn, oh, it is too bad! Well, there is another interesting lecture on tea coming up, so we might try our luck then.
I am thrilled to hear that you are discovering more of my beloved Guerlain fragrances. Vol de Nuit is indeed magical. Your comparison of Insolence to Apres L'Ondee is right now, as Maurice Roucel himself admited that it was his inspiration.
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | January 09, 2007 at 14:28
Gaia, please do! It is a great fragrance to savour by returning to it again and again. The parfum is just magical.
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | January 09, 2007 at 14:29
Patricia, I have not tried it yet, but I heard from a few perfumers that it was not very representative of the time it is meant to represent. Well, I shall reserve my opinion till I try it. Meanwhile, I hope that someone who has smelled it could share his/her thoughts.
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | January 09, 2007 at 14:31
V, I emailed Chanel & they told me that will discontinue the parfums. I was really shocked to hear that, but due to the fact that the news came directly from Chanel I almost believe that it´s true...would be really a shame :(
P.S. Did you get my email? I´m not sure if I wrote to the right adress.
Posted by: Sisonne | January 09, 2007 at 14:40
C, oh, no! These are very sad news! I am very disappointed that they decided to do this. Thank you for clarifying though.
Yes, I did, and I just answered.
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | January 09, 2007 at 14:44
I cannot believe it because I think - even if I like the EdTs - the parfums are so beautiful. I wish they would bring outer less new scents & the prafums stayed in the line - or they added the newer ones in parfum versions. I mean, who needs 400 ml bottles?!
Posted by: Sisonne | January 09, 2007 at 15:07
Beautifully written Victoria, as always!
A lovely hommage to a fragrance of the calibre of a Rembrandt, Beethoven or Chaucer.
I adore the startling white diffusive qualities this gem radiates. For me,'she' is a diamond, cold, breathtakingly beautiful, a tad austere yet mesmerizing all the same.
Marian Bendeth
Posted by: Marian Bendeth | January 09, 2007 at 17:13
Gorgeous review! The association w/ a pearl is so perfect. But, I'm horrified to read that they are d/cing the parfum versions. I knew that was happening w/ Bois des Iles, but somehow had not realized that all of them were meeting w/ that fate. How awful! My stockpiling impulses are having a serious war right now w/ the budget sided part of my brain.
Posted by: Elle | January 09, 2007 at 18:56
Dear Victoria,
As I am reviewing the vaious and sundry comments of your readers .something ....terrible dawns on me-- If I read correctly.. is Chanel going to discontinue the parfum version of Bois Des Iles ( my beloved jewel)and the other Rue de Cambon line? Elle, & Sisonne seemed to say that. I am nearly faint eith concern. Bois Des Iles (the parfum) is perfection. The EDT can not hold a candle to it. I'm with Elle..my stockpiling impulse is now definitely at odds with my budget side. how can one find out - dear V..email Chanel Paris ?
Madelyn E
Posted by: Madelyn E | January 10, 2007 at 01:50
Dear Madelyn E,
I´m not V ;) but I emailed Chanel & asked them where I could still find a bottle of BdÎ & CdR (stockpiling impulse, you know ;D ) & they were very helpful: within one day I got an answer telling me where I still can purchase them.
I hope this helped you a bit?
Posted by: Sisonne | January 10, 2007 at 07:32
Dear Sosonne and Victoria,
According to Jennifer of Chanel (57th Street Boutique) Ny - the Parfumversions of the Rue Cambon Collectiom are NOT being discontinued. Sigh..... relief... I made it clear that it was the extrait (psrfum0 pure perfume I was talking about - the EDT.
Thank you Sisonne for your caring remark !!!
Have a great day !
Madelyn E
Posted by: Madelyn E | January 10, 2007 at 12:47
C, I contacted Chanel and they were adamant that they are not discontinuing the parfums. Good news!
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | January 10, 2007 at 13:18
Marian, what a beautiful description! I am touched by your compliment. Thank you very much. No 22 is one of my favourite Chanel fragrances.
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | January 10, 2007 at 13:19
Elle, no need to worry! Per Chanel rep, they are not being discontinued. Good thing that I contacted them to clarify, otherwise I would panic. :) The parfums are my favourite ways to enjoy these fragrances.
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | January 10, 2007 at 13:20
Madelyn, thank you for contacting them as well! Good thing we clarified it. For those who love the parfums, the discontinuation would be awful news indeed. Now, I can wear my Cuir de Russie with abandon. :)
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | January 10, 2007 at 13:22
V, I can´t believe what I hear! Why do they say things like that if they aren´t true??? Or do they discontinue them only here in Germany? I´m really a bit angry - of course not because they aren´t discontinued (that´s good news for sure!)but because some people at Chanel don´t seem to know what they are talking about!
Posted by: Sisonne | January 10, 2007 at 14:35
I will always be sentimental about Chanel No. 22. It was my first serious scent at age 15 and, in effect, launched me into the world of perfume. Yes, it's powdery, but as someone before me said, "It's the ultimate powder scent."
My current problem is that I've evolved beyond anything you find in department stores (and I live in a large city), and I realize I have finally entered the pursuit of the perfumes written about on these speciality blogs.
At the time, I am tired of everything I am wearing and looking for that one special thing. In truth, several special things since I change perfumes with season and social events.
Posted by: Washington Cube | January 11, 2007 at 17:54
What a lovely article, i am going to try chanel 22, i love no 5.
Does anybody know what perfume has that warm baby powder kind of sweetness in the chanel range?
Posted by: Shooey | September 05, 2007 at 10:20
What a lovely article, i am going to try chanel 22, i love no 5.
Does anybody know what perfume has that warm baby powder kind of sweetness in the chanel range?
Posted by: Shooey | September 05, 2007 at 10:21
HELP! I love Chanel 22 lotion. I have a bottle from years ago that still smell beautiful. I want more because it is running out and cannot find it anywhere. I never liked the scent of the the edt-- only the lotion or the body cream.
WHAT can I buy to replace it? I don't care if it is an edt or edp or oil or anything but it has to smell like the lotion or the body cream.
Any advice?
Posted by: SHB | November 17, 2007 at 17:20
No.22 is a horrible fragrance. To place it in the vicinity of such lovely fragrances as Coromondel and Bel Respiro is a gigantic mistake. You will choke on the awful fragrance of No. 22 and wonder whether it's a joke that this was released. No wonder they didn't also give it a name!
Posted by: Carlos Vega | December 27, 2007 at 18:53