Frédéric Malle Une Fleur de Cassie provokes comparisons with taking a sip of espresso and being initially startled by the dark bitterness which serves as a tantalizing prelude for the caramelized and nutty undertones. Similarly, the dark powderiness of Une Fleur de Cassie hides the warmth of violets and rose wrapped into the leathery sweetness of mimosa. The fragrance starts out on an odd wet paper note before taking an unexpected twist. It is the fragrance from the Frédéric Malle collection that took me longest to appreciate, but once I did, I found myself in love with its surprising juxtaposition of accords and tonalities....
Created by perfumer Dominique Ropion, Une Fleur de Cassie is a beautiful example of his talent, especially when it comes to working with floral notes. He layers the contrasting effects of luxurious sweetness, green sharpness and animalic pungency on the aldehydic* floral outline. The result presents the elegant voluptuousness of the classical aldehydic bouquet tempered with airy, sharp notes. The woody base notes are smooth and polished, like a necklace of pale beads one can buy from wood carvers’ stalls in the Indian markets.
The cassie in the name refers to the warm and powdery fragrance of cassie flowers (Acacia farnesiana ), their spicy cinnamon facets underscored by balsamic undertones. Ropion augments the alluring sweetness of the composition with mimosa (Acacia decurrens) which is one of the main notes in Une Fleur de Cassie responsible for the leather overlay as well as the woody-floral and honeyed character. Yet, in a way, taking apart this elegantly harmonious composition note by note does not do it justice. Nor is it particularly necessary once you lose yourself in the beauty that it conjures.
Une Fleur de Cassie features notes of bergamot, rose, violet, aldehydes, cassie, mimosa, jasmine, clove, cedarwood, sandalwood, musk. Editions de Parfums fragrances are available from Frédéric Malle boutiques, Barneys New York and Frédéric Malle Editions de Parfums website.
*For explanation of aldehydes, please see this short overview.
Photo and more information on cassie (Acacia farnesiana (L.) Willdenow) can be found here.
Hello dear V :)
Une Fleur de Cassie was the first FM creation that I got to know & though I appreciate it for its extraordinarity I´ve to admit that I don´t love it (yet?).
I revisit it from time to time but it´s still "out of reach", not really wearable for me.
Reading your review, I think this scent needs a lot of time until one can really get to understand (& love) it. I´m still working on that...;)
Posted by: Sisonne | January 10, 2007 at 07:37
You make this sound wonderful! I need to sample this tout de suite. I hope the scent lives up to your lovely description.
Posted by: newproducts | January 10, 2007 at 07:37
This is a scent which takes time to unfold...
It doesn't want to seduce, all at once.
The beurre exquise is so beautiful, it makes you want to weep.
There are other Malles that flatter my skin more, but I enjoy sampling this from time to time.
VERY diva, to my nose !
Always love to read your thoughts, Vika blossom...
Posted by: chayaruchama | January 10, 2007 at 07:45
Given my love for complex, interesting scents and animalic accords, I can't explain why this one took me so long to adore. Must be bad karma that created such an extended delay from my now loved UFdC - betw/ that and budget constraints I can only assume I've led some wonderfully wicked lives.
Posted by: Elle | January 10, 2007 at 08:11
A beautiful scent, although the opening seems to kill it for some people. The body butter is also lovely, and lacks the strange opening, I think. I've been considering buying it.
Posted by: Judith | January 10, 2007 at 08:12
I somuch love this one. The opening is almost a deal-breaker, but worth getting through. As Chaya said, the beurre exquise of this scent is perfection.
Posted by: Patty | January 10, 2007 at 08:28
I had a conversation yesterday about what can be considered to be a "couture" perfume. Well, Cassie certainly is just that. Thank you for a wonderful review.
Posted by: Marina | January 10, 2007 at 09:03
Thank you for information on cassie. When I asked you about mimosa fragrance you mentioned this scent. The fragrace is beatiful but philosophical somewhat, difficult to grasp its character fully. I will try it again.
Kaori
Posted by: k-amber | January 10, 2007 at 09:29
V, I completely agree with you. I was not prepared for the animalic rush of Une Fleur de Cassie when I first tested it and proceeded to quickly wash it off and dismiss it altogether.
Then, after aromascope suggested that it was worth another go, I tested it again. This time I let it dry down completely into my skin. And, guess what? I love it. It will be my next Malle purchase, but in the meantime I am thoroughly enjoying my decant.
Hugs!
Posted by: violetnoir | January 10, 2007 at 11:48
V, still working industriously to appreciate this one ;-)
Posted by: March | January 10, 2007 at 11:55
C, it is a very difficult fragrance to wear initially, but just like the case with Tubereuse Criminelle, over time I grew to love the opening. It adds a special beauty for me.
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | January 10, 2007 at 13:23
Newproducts, thank you. There is no denying that this is a beautiful perfume, and it is not difficult to write about it. However, it is definitely not a crowd pleaser. It can be very off-putting at first for some, especially the opening.
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | January 10, 2007 at 13:24
Chaya, I like fragrances that take their time to seduce me. This was one of them!
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | January 10, 2007 at 13:25
In the same camp as March, although not sure I'm working "industriously". Maybe I ought to be :-)
Posted by: Robin | January 10, 2007 at 13:27
When I was at Barneys NY the SA told me that Cassie was the most popular scent in Europe, but not liked in the states. Personally, I love it after it's been on my skin for about 15 min and the initial aldehydes tone down a bit. I don't get that paper scent, but I wish I would just to see what everyone's talking about!
As for not being a crowd pleaser, last time I wore this someone I barely know at all told me I smelled exquisite. I can't tell you how pleased this made me :)
Posted by: msjustine2u | January 10, 2007 at 14:38
I've smelled Fleur de Cassie several times chez Frédéric Malle, but I've never been able to pin it down - is it sweet? Is it spicy? What is it really??? Thus, I've never ventured to try it on my skin, at FM that precious space is always taken by something else. However, on reading your review, and the comments above, I realise that to understand in one must perhaps give it time and doing so shall from now on be on my list of to-do's!
Posted by: LisaCarol | January 10, 2007 at 15:24
I think the intensity of the beauty of this one scares some people. I find it best to breathe it in slowly and deeply - to breathe through the shock of it. And I also think this perfume was borne of a very French point of view - the one that acknowledges the earthiness and even the death in being alive. It's not a clean, proper American aesthetic at all. Maybe that's why I love it so.
Posted by: minette | January 10, 2007 at 16:31
Minette hit the nail on the head! She is spot on with her observations about this beautifully French fragrance.
Hugs!
Posted by: violetnoir | January 10, 2007 at 17:04
Dear V., this is stil on my to-sniff list. Like LisaCarol, every risky-for-the-wallet time I've been to FM, I've been conquered by something else: it's probably the only place where I've ever bought a fragrance I went in to test on the spot, and with Serge Lutens, the only house whose fragrances I've found a need to renew when I run out... About the cassie note: I've always thought Caron's Farnesiana gave off a very pleasant wet paper note too. Have you ever perceived it? It must be the cassie...
Posted by: carmencanada | January 10, 2007 at 18:48
It's only thanks to you that I gave this perfume a second chance. :) Fresh paint and wet paper transforms into a most gorgeous scent! Loved the review.
Posted by: Ina | January 10, 2007 at 22:57
is it a sweet and spicy,warm ,scent or is it dark,heavy? Is it sparkling? As far as I understand it is not an easy parfum to wear.Why?
Posted by: ruxandra | January 11, 2007 at 03:52
Very pretty and especially good saleswoman of the avenue Victor Hugo said to me that it is the perfume of truths amateurs. We find ourselves here.
It became my favourite of the mark! Quite simply intelligent! It takes a long time to discover, but what a creation! Very original and full with references to splendid creations Après l’ondée de Guerlain or Farnésiana of Caron… For me, it is gray, it is dust… It is often put at the second plan and it is simply unjust. But, it is the batch of so much of creation. Thanks you very much for having some to speak.
Posted by: Donald | January 14, 2007 at 10:32
Elle, I was in the same situation, so I can understand what you mean. Now, I cannot be without this perfume. It is amazing.
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | January 15, 2007 at 15:45
Judith, yes, you are absolutely right! The opening is quite strong, but it wears off. The body butter might be an easier one to wear at first.
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | January 15, 2007 at 15:46
Patty, I cannot agree more! The opening is definitely worth enduring, although now I really enjoy it.
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | January 15, 2007 at 15:47
Marina, what a perfect way to put it--couture perfume. It is definitely it.
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | January 15, 2007 at 15:48
Kaori, yes, Une Fleur de Cassie is a wonderful fragrance to try if you want to experience either cassie or mimosa. It is conceptual, but unlike many conceptual fragrances, it is quite wearable once you get used to its quirks.
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | January 15, 2007 at 16:26
Violetnoir, I am so glad that Ina persuaded you to give it another chance. It is not the easiest fragrance to fall in love with it, but eventually it leads to a true and passionate love affair.
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | January 15, 2007 at 16:34
March, I am looking forward to hearing your thoughts about it after the work is done! :)
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | January 15, 2007 at 16:35
R, I think that you should! :) Cassie is worth it.
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | January 15, 2007 at 16:37
msjustine2u, that is wonderful! Compliments from strangers are quite satisfying.
The initial top notes have a scent of wet paper. As a part of my art classes, I once took a paper making seminar. The top notes of Une Fleur de Cassie bring me back into that paper making studio.
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | January 15, 2007 at 16:39
LisaCarol, it is a woody fragrance to me, even though the floral notes are pronounced. I recommend giving it a thorough skin test to determine how it might work for you. Curious to hear your thoughts!
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | January 16, 2007 at 12:49
Minette, it is a beautiful way to describe it. I cannot agree more with you--the aesthetic of this fragrance cannot be more different from what is popular in the US (Pleasures, Romance, etc.)
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | January 16, 2007 at 12:50
R, I think so too! A perfect description.
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | January 16, 2007 at 12:51
D, yes, I notice a paper/woody note in Farnesiana, but there it seems to fade quicker. I cannot wait to hear what you think after testing Une Fleur de Cassie on your skin.
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | January 16, 2007 at 12:52
Ina, I am so glad to hear this! :)
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | January 16, 2007 at 12:52
Ruxandra, it is just that it opens up on a rather unexpected (and not exactly pretty) note. That might be difficult for some people. However, I encourage you to try it, because it is a striking fragrance.
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | January 16, 2007 at 12:53
Donald, "Very original and full with references to splendid creations Après l’ondée de Guerlain or Farnésiana of Caron." That is a great way to capture its spirit. It is a modern fragrance that references classics--a fascinating composition.
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | January 16, 2007 at 12:54
Dear V., I've just found out that the flower Carmen throws to Don José in the opera is a cassie flower... I've ordered a decant unsniffed because that seems like fate.
Posted by: carmencanada | January 17, 2007 at 17:26
Dear D, it is fate! I did not realize this, but now my affection for Une Fleur de Cassie is even stronger. Thank you very much for sharing this.
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | January 17, 2007 at 22:05
Spurred by this thread, I dared myself out today in the rainy gloom and headed for Frédéric Malle on the left bank. And what can I say? - what a ray of sunshine Fleur de Cassie is! Very much like Carnal Flower it seems to lift your spirits when the grey seems to take over. Even though I still find it very sweet and fruity when smelled in their cubicles, it's a very different thing on my skin. I can only describe it as green; the top is almost dry, with a grassiness not far from CF. Then I get mostly mimosa, but I wouldn’t call it sweet, it’s rather green and radiant with a hint of sour lemon and violets lurking behind it. The entire composition reminds me of Estée Lauder’s Private Collection, which has a similar tropical, spring like greenness to it, and the same muskiness in the base.
I’m not sure Fleur de Cassie is something I’d wear on a daily basis, but I would love to have a small bottle to take out when life is just too dull. So, Victoria, thank you sooo much for nudging me out the door to go and discover it!
Posted by: LisaCarol | January 20, 2007 at 11:56