Star rating: 5 stars--outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars--very good, 3 stars--adequate, 2 stars--disappointing, 1 star--poor.
Who is Miss Dior? I think that she is half Anna Karenina, half Brett Ashley. Created for Christian Dior Parfums, Miss Dior appears to be lady-like and soigné, and yet it hints at the worn darkness of leather saddles and the smoke of slender cigarettes. Although one can enjoy Miss Dior for what it is—a gorgeous classical chypre with a unique green freshness, I find that understanding its context heightens my appreciation for its heartbreaking beauty. Born in 1947, the fragrance carries connotations of the hunger for glamour, the austerity of war and the hopes for future. …
The birth of Miss Dior coincides with Christian Dior’s first fashion show held in a salon on the avenue Montaigne in Paris on February 12th, 1947. In a rebellious move against the austerity imposed by the cloth rations and the angular lines of wartime fashions, Dior showcased the strikingly feminine collection of cinched waists, softly rounded shoulders and voluminous ankle length skirts. “It's quite a revolution, dear Christian. Your dresses have such a new look,” remarked Carmel Snow, editor-in-chief of Harper’s Bazaar. New Look became a phrase that would symbolize this collection, which resuscitated the French fashion industry and led tp Dior receiving the Legion of Honor from the French government.
Miss Dior fragrance complimented the freshness, exuberance and elegance of Dior’s fashion line. It was the synergy of haute couture and perfume at its best. The fragrance was created by Paul Vacher based on a formula composed by Jean Carles (who also composed Carven Ma Griffe, Dana Tabu and Myrurgia Maja.) Michael Edwards’s French Perfume Legends tells that Dior was fascinated by the roughhewn appeal of Chypre de Coty (1917) and the vivid verdancy of Balmain’s Vent Vert (1947). These two accords are fused in Miss Dior, their contrasting elements harmonized by the opulent floral heart.
Miss Dior does not reveal her charms upon the first encounter, requiring a longer and patient acquaintance, especially for those who are used to the eager-to-please modern fragrances. The green pepper sharpness of galbanum is underpinned by a classical gardenia note, which is bright, dry and intriguingly metallic. These effervescent notes slowly melt into the floral heart of Miss Dior, and yet the animalic darkness is never far behind. Soon the chypre base that supports the refinement of floral notes takes center stage. The composition becomes veiled in duskiness, which is punctuated by the gilded warmth of patchouli. The woman who wears Miss Dior projects the most exquisite elegance paired with confidence and resolve of character—a truly alluring combination.
Like many classical fragrances, Miss Dior has not reached us in its original state. The changes to the formula led to the attenuated base and limpid floralcy, to the unbecoming pallor of its chypre accord and the disappointing softness of its top notes. To think that something so strong, so assertive and so distinctive was to be turned into a wallflower!
Christian Dior Miss Dior contains notes of gardenia, galbanum, bergamot, clary sage, jasmine, narcissus, neroli, rose, patchouli, oakmoss, labdanum, sandalwood. It is available from Saks5thAvenue, Neiman Marcus and other Dior retailer locations.
Dress from Christian Dior’s Haute couture collection, autumn/winter 1953. From Design Museum.
Dear Victoria,
I can't believe my eyes .. Miss Dior was one of my mainstays during my college years into my late 20's ! I agree wholeheartedly with your as always. eloquent review. Yes, Miss Dior is an acquired taste . It starts off as a green floral with a kind of sharpness .. and slowly settles into a comfortable yet assertive chypre rose drydown. It is a ladylike scent sort of like Sisley's new Soir De Lune. Ingenues need not apply. When I am near a Dior counter , I love revisting my old friends.. Diorissimo. Dioressence, Diorella and my favorite Miss Dior. I always associated it with a feeling of well-being. It was true aromatherapy . It is unique - what else smells like it in the vintage and/or contemporary fragrance market ?
V, have you tested the eau de Parfum and compared it with the Eau de Toilette ? I just did .. Xmas week in Saks 5th Ave. NY. I thought I would prefer the EDP, but I actually considered the EdT rich enough.
I even remember Diorama from the 60's. (can't find it anymore though.)
I feel like running out and getting a bottle of the familiar black and white checkered bottle . Miss Dior is truly special !
Posted by: Madelyn E | February 01, 2007 at 01:58
Miss Dior is one of my not very early fragrant memories - my grandmother used to have it for the last years of her life. I know that I always liked this fragrance thinking on how deep, fresh in an unusual way and bitter-sweet it is. It reminded me of fresh bitter almonds just picked up from a tree.
Posted by: flacon007 | February 01, 2007 at 03:35
I have loved Miss Dior for more than 30 years. I have the parfum in both vintage and new formulas, and I find the new version just as lovely on me, though it has a slightly different balance (the drydown is still perfection). A few years ago, I was working in Paris and living alone. On Christmas Eve at noon, my company let everyone go home early, but I had nothing to go home to. Then I had an inspiration: I went to the Dior flagship boutique to buy myself a fresh bottle of Miss Dior, and was pampered beyond belief with perfect service and a bagful of samples. I walked out feeling terribly chic and special -- and not quite so homesick.
Posted by: Elizabeth | February 01, 2007 at 06:54
I fell in love with fragrances at the first time was CDs, Miss Dior and Diorella. At that time, being 14 year old girl, Miss Dior was too elegant. Diorella is still one of my absouute favorite CD. Luckly I have a vintage Diorella parfume and wish I could have vintage Miss Dior. Those fragrances associate with graceful Rene Gruau illustrations that I adore.
Thank you for fascinating review, as always.
Kaori
Posted by: k-amber | February 01, 2007 at 07:27
Sorry Victoria but I think there is a little problem with Miss Dior.
As you said : Miss Dior did not reached us in its original state.
In my opinion, the version which is sold actually is very common and it has not the beauty of the original.
I smelled the first version at the Osmothèque and, for me, the fragrance of today is only the shadow of 1947.
For the small history, Miss Dior was created in homage to the sister of Christian Dior: Catherine
Posted by: aryse | February 01, 2007 at 07:43
Thank you so much for this wonderful, informative review of one of my favorite perfumes. I treasure my vintage Dior amphores, and I agree that it's a shame that the house seems to have watered down (or discontinued) its best perfumes (mourning Diorling here, as well). Like Elizabeth, I find the modern version lovely--but it's just not in the same league (for me at least).
Posted by: Judith | February 01, 2007 at 07:45
Anna K and Brett Ashley - what an absolutely genius association for Miss Dior! :-) I always struggle when asked to choose one absolute favorite perfume, but I have to confess this would be my choice. I started wearing it when I was eight (father bought it for my mother, who wouldn't wear it, so I did) and have worn it consistently ever since. OK, at eight I was hardly projecting the elegance and confidence which this perfume deserves, but even then, it gave me the mental image of who and how I wanted to be when I grew up - still working on that and am now guessing I'll get there in my next incarnation or maybe the one after that, but it's still a noble goal. :-) Thanks for such a wonderful review!
Posted by: Elle | February 01, 2007 at 07:52
Gorgeous, gorgeous review. And fun reading everyone's comments. While I would like a bottle of vintage Miss Dior, what I *really* want is that amazing dress!!! I mourn vintage styles almost as much as vintage fragrances, they fit me beautifully, but I worry as I get older that at some point they're going to quit looking chic and quirky on me, and start making me look like a nut.
Posted by: March | February 01, 2007 at 08:50
That thing they're calling Miss Dior now is depressing.
Posted by: Tania | February 01, 2007 at 10:31
Another wonderful review: it was a happy start to a lovely early spring day, and I felt pleased that here is a fragrance that I already know. I took a sniff this afternoon, thought to myself, "No, you cannot buy two fragrances in one week!" and reluctantly decided to wait. I think that perfume is so evocative and immediately conjures up long forgotten memories: straightaway I was in the sixth form at school in an English lesson. My teacher was a very smart lady and always wore this perfume. Oh that I was eighteen again! I do so agree with the first comment which I read early this morning: "ingenues need not apply"! So true... Thank you for this website, for the gorgeous photo of the black dress, and thank you MadelynE too. I always enjoy reading your comments!
Posted by: Linda | February 01, 2007 at 11:24
I hardly ever see even the new version of Miss Dior, only Miss Dior Cherie, which IMHO has been prettied up & dumbed down past the point of wearability. I need to hunt this lady down.
Posted by: aimtx | February 01, 2007 at 11:27
I love Miss Dior. I wore it for years in Argentina and it brings back such fond memories. The new formulation is not at all like the original, this is sad. But it's still lovely and infinitely better than Miss Dior Cherie, so...
Posted by: Flor | February 01, 2007 at 12:51
A mere mention of Miss Dior makes me happy. Reading a beautiful review like this makes me ecstatic. *swoons*
Posted by: Marina | February 01, 2007 at 14:02
Lovely review! I'd never really thought of it as a child of it's time in that way, but the way you put it makes, well, it so much more logic. I'm not familiar with the vintage Miss Dior, but considering my appreciation for the current version I would be surprised if it would not have me swooning. I'd guess the harshness I percieve in the topnotes would not be present in the vintage?
Miss Dior is my "confidence" scent, as if I was wearing a New Look corset it makes me stand up straight and believe in myself. I find I reach for it on days when I have to stand up for my causes, when I need to be convincing - and it usually works. On me, it simply says "don't mess with me"!
Posted by: LisaCarol | February 01, 2007 at 16:02
While I haven't tried the current scent, the various vintage versions I own do start with quite a bracing note, almost bitter -- a galbanum and clary sage blast. To me it is a sister scent to Jolie Madame; Diorling was somewhat along the same line with the addition of quinoline. What a pity this spirited, chic line of chypres has died down; with the new regulations, there will be no chance of experiencing them in all their glory.
Posted by: carmencanada | February 01, 2007 at 16:48
I feel lucky because my mother has got a vintage bottle of Miss Dior, and it's fascinating: ladylike, but with an hint of bitterness and sadness. And sexy, of course. Recently, I smelled the new version and I immediately noticed how "fresher" and simpler it is. I won't buy it. I hope you will review Dioressence one day, it's my favourite Dior, I think the combination of green notes and amber is genius!
Posted by: stephania | February 02, 2007 at 04:52
Sadly, the newer version, while pretty, lacks the edginess of the original- along with the more satisfying drydown.
There appears to be less finesse in it, as well.
You've made Marinochka very happy, with your lovely review !
[Me, too]
Take care...
Posted by: chayaruchama | February 02, 2007 at 11:47
Hi there, I really love your reviews -captures each fragrance so aptly in their beauty. It feels different wearing that scent before I read your review and after reading your review on that scent somehow -perhaps it helps me to understand what I am wearing. Thank you....
Just wondering if you could do a review on Armani Black Code pour femme soon? I'm wearing the sample, but I don't understand the scent. But I am so totally in love with the scent
Posted by: mimi | February 03, 2007 at 22:33
Madelyn, how wonderful to discover that I reviewed yet another absolute favourite that was worn and loved by someone and that the person in question shared this with the rest of us here. Thank you! I am partial to the parfum, although other concentrations are very beautiful. I find that even Dior's colognes (vintage) are amazing in terms of tenacity and sillage. I wore Diorama this weekend, and I will revisit more of Dior's range in the coming weeks.
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | February 04, 2007 at 22:00
Dmitri, thank you! I love your comparison of Miss Dior to green almonds. What a beautiful and precise way of putting it.
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | February 04, 2007 at 22:01
Elizabeth, it is always wonderful to revisit something you once loved and find it perfect still. Perhaps, it is a recent change, but I tried Miss Dior at the counter last week and took a sample home. It was nothing like the vintage or even what I tried a few years ago. No doubt, the recent changes in regards to the oakmoss in compositions have affect Dior's formulas too.
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | February 04, 2007 at 22:10
Kaori, luckily, it is very easy to find vintage Miss Dior on Ebay. Just be sure that the liquid is not too dark. I love Diorella. I cannot believe that I still have not reviewed it!
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | February 04, 2007 at 22:12
Aryse, thank you very much! I did not know this story, but I will now add it to my Miss Dior notes.
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | February 04, 2007 at 22:13
Judith, I seem to recall that you can still buy Diorling from Harrod's. However, perhaps, I am confusing it with Diorama. I know that someone who comments here ordered from them, and I always meant to ask how it compares to the original.
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | February 04, 2007 at 22:14
Elle, thank you very much! I feel very much the same way about Miss Dior, although I think that if I were forces to choose, I would be in a very tough situation. I would have to pick between Miss Dior and Doblis!
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | February 04, 2007 at 22:16
March, I do not think so! I think that you will always have a spirit to carry them off. Thank you, I am glad that you liked the review. It is difficult for me to review fragrances I especially love, because I always try to do a proper tribute to them (trying to avoid 30 page treatises on the topic, however). :) Well, whatever one can say about Miss Dior, one can always find something else to admire in it.
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | February 04, 2007 at 22:18
T, I agree completely! It is sad.
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | February 04, 2007 at 22:18
Linda, thank you very much! I also enjoy reading the commentary, especially to fragrances people love (or sometimes the ones they hate too). We all create our own connections with our favourites. I think that I have always had a very specific image of Miss Dior in my mind, and how interesting for me to find that this image has stayed the same even many years later.
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | February 04, 2007 at 22:20
A, I agree. Miss Dior Cherie is nowhere close to Miss Dior.
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | February 05, 2007 at 13:36
Flor, it is true. While it is not close to the original, it is better than Miss Dior Cherie.
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | February 05, 2007 at 13:38
Marina, thank you very much! I am glad to hear this. :)
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | February 05, 2007 at 13:39
LisaCarol, this is exactly how I feel when I wear Miss Dior. The top notes of the vintage are even more assertive than those of the new version. It is an explosion of galbanum, much like Vent Vert. Nevertheless, the composition is so perfectly balanced that they are not grating.
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | February 05, 2007 at 13:42
D, I agree with you. It is sad to discover that Miss Dior was tempered with, but what can be done about the regulations. I can see why changes might take place, but it makes me sad nevertheless.
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | February 05, 2007 at 13:43
Stephania, very true. The new version is fresher, more floral, rather than more chypre. I treasure my bottles.
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | February 05, 2007 at 13:44
Chaya, I am happy on both counts! :)
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | February 05, 2007 at 13:44
Mimi, thank you very much! I am glad to hear this. I was planning to do a review of Armani Code for a while, so it might be coming up soon.
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | February 05, 2007 at 13:45