The presence of orange blossom in Jean Paul Gaultier Fleur du Mâle is no more unexpected for a masculine perfume than the presence of Pelé in a list of world’s greatest footballers. After all, the classical eau de cologne relied on the bright sparkle of neroli (steam distilled oil of bitter orange flowers) in order to provide a fresh accent. However, while masculine blends like Yves Saint Laurent Kouros Fraîcheur and Creed Néroli Sauvage rely upon bracing citrusy and woody notes to frame the sweetness of orange blossom, Fleur du Mâle takes this radiant and bright note into a completely different realm—ornate, sensual and languorous. …
Fleur du Mâle was created by Francis Kurkdjian, the creator of Jean Paul Gaultier's 1995 debut Le Mâle. With its name playing upon Charles Baudelaire's collection of poems, Les Fleurs du Mal (The Flowers of Evil), Fleur du Mâle targets the same urbane and sophisticated male as Burberry London for Men and Paul Smith Story. If the first two take a somewhat more expected route—woody oriental in the case of the former and fresh woods in case of the latter, Fleur du Mâle has more flair.
Building upon its successful predecessor, Fleur du Mâle stakes out its masculine character with a crisp and transparent top accord. It further overdoses the orange blossom present in Le Mâle, while significantly lightening its sweet oriental base. After the woody-citrusy effervescence of the top notes subsides, the composition unfolds into smooth and velvety layers of flowers and woods. The indolic sweetness of orange blossom is supported by the decadently rich base, where a hay-like note of coumarin produces a delicious, powdery macaroon accent. Sensual without falling into the rugged macho bravura of classical fougère*, Fleur du Mâle is refreshingly different from typical masculine offerings.
Traditionally, feminine perfumery has been more open to experimentation and innovation. The new dramatic accords and unexpected twists like those created by some of the most famous fragrances in perfume history were marketed towards women. The advances in masculine perfumery were comparatively much slower, given the more conservative stance of the perceived target audience. Yet, whenever I tally up the innovative and distinctive compositions of the past couple of years in the prestige market, I immediately turn to the ones created for the masculine market--Dior Homme and Terre d’Hermès. Time alone will be the test for Fleur du Mâle, but even at this point, I find this new release very exciting.
Jean Paul Gaultier Fleur du Mâle possesses great tenacity and sillage. It includes notes of petitgrain, lavender, orange blossom, coumarin. It is currently exclusive to Bloomingdales.
Mention hay and I'm torn between continuing to read or racing off to immediately order a sample (and exhibiting impressive self control in not ordering a full bottle unsniffed). I also need to finally purchase some coumarin so I can play w/ around w/ layering it.
That really is interesting about the more innovative perfumes being in the masculine market these days. I wonder if it's due to less financial risk as a result of lower expectations for overall sales.
Posted by: Elle | March 26, 2007 at 08:08
Sounds fantastic! And I mean wearable-fantastic. I am racing off after Elle to find a sample too :-)
Posted by: Marina | March 26, 2007 at 08:12
I keep bothering those ladies and they keep failing to produce a bottle (taps fingers impatiently)... maybe I'll go by there today. I am anxious to smell this -- it sounds lovely and I liked the original Le Male a lot (which to me smells like a slightly more masculine Gaultier2). Did you see the bottle? It looks SO gorgeous; is it frosted glass? Semi-transparent? It looks like shiny opaque glass in the photo, but it's hard to tell.
Posted by: March | March 26, 2007 at 08:13
I like the bottle, but I actually found this to be closer to the Fleurs du Mal - disappointing for me, since I like Kurkdjian. It had its moments, but there was a pervasive Windex note on the strip that made me hesitant to apply it on myself. I'm not a huge orange blossom fan, but I *love* hay and I didn't get any. My husband like the heart notes but thought the top notes and later drydown smelled cheap. It was not a big hit around here, unfortunately.
Posted by: Tigs | March 26, 2007 at 10:00
At first sniff, I was disappointed because there really wasn't a tremendous difference between the original Le Male and Fluer du Male. Eventually, the orange blossom really came out, but on me it took a while. Only after walking around the mall for 5 hours smelling my wrist, trying to decide if I wanted to buy it, deciding no and leaving the mall did I wish I had stayed about 15 minutes longer because then I really started to love it.
Marina - the bottle is glossy opaque white. It is really gorgeous.
Posted by: MarkDavid | March 26, 2007 at 10:12
Langorous, yes that's exactly what it is! I already told you how much I love the fact that Kurkdjian has explored different facets of orange blossom, from juicy to delicate to animalic, and I'm so happy to see that you enjoy FdM, too! Great review, Vika! xxx
Posted by: Dusan | March 26, 2007 at 13:27
To March -- they have it at the Bloomingdales at White Flint.
Great review V!
Posted by: Robin | March 26, 2007 at 14:01
Is this just my impression or is Francis Kurkjian the most prolific "nose" of the moment? Just this year, the three Indults, the two MDCI, the two Juliette Has a Gun; before that, two Diors (Cologne Blanche and Eau Noire), not to mention all the Gaultier men's scents, Narciso Rodriguez and Rose Barbare... He's definitely on a creative role here. I haven't smelled the MDCI and the Juliettes but so far, but he doesn't seem to be stretching himself too thin, does he?
Posted by: carmencanada | March 26, 2007 at 14:33
Elle, it does not become obvious until the drydown, but yes, it provides a very interesting facet. I probably would not recommend Fleur de Male to a woman, because of its opening notes. The drydown is much less conventionally masculine, more like a soft powder.
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | March 26, 2007 at 14:41
Marina, it is a very interesting fragrance, especially for a flanker.
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | March 26, 2007 at 14:41
March, the bottle is completely opaque. I loved the presentation, but then again all of JPG bottles are striking.
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | March 26, 2007 at 14:44
Tigs, do you mean Le Male, the original?
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | March 26, 2007 at 14:51
MarkDavid, yes, the relationship to the original is quite clear, especially in the beginning. The middle accord is where the difference becomes more obvious.
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | March 26, 2007 at 14:52
Dusan, yes, very much so! Now, I wonder how it will do among its target market. It is not a completely expected masculine, afterall.
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | March 26, 2007 at 14:53
R, thank you!
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | March 26, 2007 at 14:54
D, I think that Francis Kurkdjian (and this is also the consensus among perfumers who worked with him) is among the most creative and talented perfumers. I very much admire him pushing the boundary and delving further into the artisanal market. Afterall, few young perfumers can boast of successes on par with his Le Male. I cannot wait what he does next.
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | March 26, 2007 at 15:06
No, Victoria, sadly it was definitely the new one, Fleur du Male. There was something really bothersome in the early development (top and early heart notes). Maybe the tester had turned already? I thought it was the lavender - I love lavender, but there seemed to be something sharp and artificial-smelling in there. And, as I say, I didn't really get the hay, although there was sweetness in the drydown. I generally really like Kurkdjian's work....
Posted by: Tigs | March 26, 2007 at 16:05
E, oh, I just did not understand what you meant when you said, "I like the bottle, but I actually found this to be closer to the Fleurs du Mal - disappointing for me, since I like Kurkdjian."
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | March 26, 2007 at 16:31
V, I just meant that it was closer to "the Flowers of Evil" for me! Actually, I really like Baudelaire, too.
Posted by: Tigs | March 26, 2007 at 18:35
i tried this at NM a few weeks ago and liked it - it would easy for a woman to wear, and i think it might take a very confident man to pull off. i was distracted by other scents that day, and need to retest it, but my first impression was positive. bloomies must be telling folks they have the exclusive, because neimans also has this.
Posted by: minette | March 26, 2007 at 19:02
V, sorry to post this here, but do you think I would like Eau des Merveilles? I have an opportunity to buy it online pretty cheap. I don't like the Prada advertised recently or D&G Light Blue, and I don't care for Flowerbomb or Hanae Mori Butterfly. It's hard to pick a favorite, but I like Burberry Brit, Cartier's Delices, Rock n Rose by Valentino, Narciso Rodriguez for Her (EDT), Coco Madamoiselle (EDP), and CK's Euphoria. I saw your review of Eau des Merveilles- sounds intriguing. I don't know if I should go out on a limb and buy without smelling first though.
Posted by: Leoness | March 26, 2007 at 23:52
E, ok, that makes sense. :)
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | March 27, 2007 at 11:27
Minette, then it seems that Bloomingdales have (or probably at this point, had) an exclusive on it. I have read about it in WWD, and so far, I have not spotted Fleur de Male nowhere else. Thanks for the information! I will update the links.
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | March 27, 2007 at 11:29
Minette, then it seems that Bloomingdales have (or probably at this point, had) an exclusive on it. I have read about it in WWD, and so far, I have not spotted Fleur du Male nowhere else. Thanks for the information! I will update the links.
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | March 27, 2007 at 11:30
L, why not buy a sample of it on Ebay first? It seems that you do not like any of the fragrances with patchouli, and patchouli is quite strong in EdM. That is something to consider.
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | March 27, 2007 at 11:33
You're right, I HATE patchouli! How funny. Maybe I won't like EdM afterall, but good suggestion (although it involves exercising patience, which might be a problem).
Posted by: Leoness | March 27, 2007 at 16:39
Then definitely sample first! EDT is lighter on patchouli, but it is still distinct.
Posted by: BoisdeJasmin | March 27, 2007 at 16:44
I took a chance and purchased a bottle. Initially I liked it, thought that it was very interesting, and after wearing it for one week I truly realize the depth of the fragrance. It has the Le Male base with an orange blossom overtone. A general survey of some women and their opinions have been positive. It would also be very nice on a woman, not that this is a unisex cologne or a feminine edt. I feel that it has a wide audience. It's really fantastic.
Posted by: douglas | May 10, 2007 at 12:52
i bought it today and i can't stop smelling myself. i'm in love. i wasn't really a fan when the counter girl showed it to me at first, but when i went back later and the intensity had settled i was entranced. it's amazing.
Posted by: parker. | May 16, 2007 at 02:27
When I first tested this, it lasted from early into the afternoon and didn't fully die down until after I'd woken up the next morning. I loved the fragrance and I immediately went to Sephora to buy a bottle. Since the purchase though, I've found the lasting power isn't nearly as good and the fragrance itself isn't as strong. Have I just built an immunity to it, or is there a chance I got a bum bottle?
Posted by: BlackRaspberry | January 14, 2008 at 23:00