Star rating: 5 stars--outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars--very good, 3 stars--adequate, 2 stars--disappointing, 1 star--poor.
"They were black when she was in shadow and dark blue in full daylight." I smell Infusion d’Iris, the latest fragrance from Prada, and Gustav Flaubert’s description of Emma Bovary’s eyes floats up in mind. Is it because I just finished re-reading Madame Bovary and the phrase is still fresh in my memory? Or is it because I find that Infusion d’Iris exhibits the marked diversity of nuances, much like the eyes of beautiful Emma? …
The composition seems to blend the scents of spring flowers, fallen leaves, frozen roots and summer greenery—a full spectrum of aroma derived from the roots of iris pallida. The beautiful natural iris butter which forms Infusion d’Iris conveys a misty, ethereal presence. The floral heart is sketched around the orange blossom, while the soft verdant notes provide the main leitmotif, from the marriage of anise and galbanum in the top notes to the delicate bitterness of vetiver in the base. For all its gorgeous natural materials, Infusion d’Iris is a classical fragrance—the fleshy naturals are braced by man-made essences. It strongly references Guerlain L’Heure Bleue, even down to Guerlain’s exquisite melancholy.
While the impact of Infusion d’Iris is based on strong contrasts and juxtapositions, it possesses the polished delicacy that marks perfumer Daniela Andrier’s body of work (such as Prada pour Homme, Armani Prive Pierre de Lune, Guerlain Angelique Noire.) In this sense, Infusion d’Iris is a perfect fragrance to be launched under the Prada brand. Much like the fashions of the house, the composition is refined and stylized, blending quintessentially feminine flounces with masculine austerity. The only detraction of Infusion d’Iris might be the ethereal presence, but its loveliness more than makes up for it.
Iris Ganache (Guerlain), Orris Noir (Ormonde Jayne), Iris Noir (Yves Rocher), Iris Pallida (L’Artisan Parfumeur), 28 La Pausa (Chanel)… It seems that iris is a rather au courant note in the European market. Even if US fragrances have not traditionally engaged in the same passionate love affair, I only need to smell the drydowns of Estee Lauder fragrances to draw different conclusions. From Beautiful to Pleasures, these all-American classics are underpinned by iris. Ethereal, mysterious and alluring, a mere touch of it manages to transform a bright hologram of a fragrance into a softly lit daguerreotype.
The notes of Prada Infusion d’Iris include mandarin, orange blossom, galbanum, iris, incense, benzoin, cedar, lentisc and vetiver. The Eau de Parfum can be found at Neiman Marcus.
Lovely review, V. I do think the Prada will end up being one of my favorites of 2007.
Posted by: Robin | October 16, 2007 at 19:14
I love how delicate it is but I 'm with you on the "disturbing" etheral quality of this iris infusion which feels to me closer to an eau de Cologne than a perfume.
Posted by: Aline et Valcour | October 16, 2007 at 19:50
Beautiful Emma, yes but unfortunately with a very sad life.If Infusion d'iris is a very romantic perfume (like Emma Bovay was a very romantic woman), I hope its destiny will be very different :-)
Posted by: aryse | October 17, 2007 at 04:50
Lovely, but with a too wide fluctuation "ethereal" wise: I could have followed my daughter's sillage during hours, whereas on my skin, I had a few seconds of nice opening notes, then nothing, not even soap clouds!
Posted by: aliki | October 17, 2007 at 06:18
What a beautiful review. Loved the comparison with Mme Bovari's eyes!! I liked Infusion d'Iris very much too. Polished delicacy- yes, definitely!
Posted by: Marina | October 17, 2007 at 07:55
I really hate this perfume!
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Posted by: Mimi | October 17, 2007 at 16:35
Infusion d'Iris is a lovely fragrance, but it is fleeting. For me, it seems perfect for early fall. I'm wearing it today and while the edp has vanished the lotion still has a delicate presence.
Posted by: Suki | October 18, 2007 at 13:44
I don't like this fragrance, either. There is something very harsh about it that doesn't smooth out in the wearing.
Posted by: Karen | October 18, 2007 at 18:06
Prada Homme lite....not impressed.
Posted by: john Parodi | October 21, 2007 at 21:41
Fashion eras are funny creatures; to think that a fragrance containing notes of iris, orange blossom, galbanum and vetiver could ever be novel, when it's probably been one of the most common and fashionable combinations in fragrance history. Despite this, we haven't experienced such introspective subtlety in quite some time. Iris as a scent frontrunner is just far enough away in our fragrance past, that it now feels fresh as well as nostalgic. I could easily imagine this on Snow White or Miss Mina Murray of "Dracula" fame, as I could on a modern socialite, historian or writer.
Your review is wonderful--fitting justice for such a unique, modern fragrance!
Posted by: s&r | November 11, 2007 at 21:06
i love this fragrance. it stayed with me all day, which surprised me since the general sentiment seems to be that it is not long lasting. i kept catching unexpected, pleasant whiffs of myself. very classy, elegant and streamlined. definitely one of those scents that has an odd way of inspiring confidence and comfort at the same time.
Posted by: cokey | November 21, 2007 at 00:56
Yes!! L'heure Blue!! I wore Infusion for the first time yesterday and at the drydown completely flashed back to L'heure that I haven't worn in more than a decade. Infusion is almost like a more modern and much lighter (in an good way) version of L'heure. You're spot on!
Posted by: lcs | January 23, 2008 at 13:10
I bought this recently at Sephora when I first started looking for a new fragrance, then returned it after a few days. It did not last on me, and the drydown reminded me distinctly of urine. But I'm not sure why, and was wondering if anyone can shed some light on this.
Posted by: Janet | July 13, 2011 at 13:40
Janet - It's so funny that you mentioned the urine smell. Infusion was beautiful at first, but when it dried I was left with a mildew/urine smell. eeks.
Posted by: Sanam | October 12, 2011 at 14:15
Sanam-- thank you for confirming this;) I thought it smelled like that just because I have a nursing background and so many things smell like body fluids! Eeeuuu! I never want to smell like something unpleased from work when I wear fragrance!
Posted by: Janet | November 14, 2011 at 22:00