I finally had to admit to myself that Kelly Calèche disappointed me. It did not deliver on the promise to evoke the prized soft leather of Hermès bags, which naturally possess a subtle floral accent; nor was the signature of genius perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena fully obvious in the final result. The fragrance in my mind was glorious, the scent on my skin turned out but a pale shadow of it.
Released in 2007, Kelly Calèche was meant to be the first feminine leather fragrance in the Hermès collection. This is, of course, not quite the case--Doblis created in 1955 by Guy Robert came first. Alas, it has been discontinued for years, experiencing only a brief reintroduction in 2004. Although referencing the original Calèche (1961), Kelly Calèche was not to be seen as a flanker to this great classic. It was instead to be Ellena’s take on Hermès’ “leather soft as a peach,” an allusion to Jean Giono's Jean le Bleu, and its passage about “making soles in angel leather.” Indeed, Ellena, who is responsible for the poetic Hermèssence collection and the strikingly beautiful Terre d’Hermès, would be the best perfumer to render any leather as “angelic.”
The shimmery citrus top notes provide a beautiful prologue to Kelly Calèche, before they lose their jewel-like shimmer in the soft floral heart. Then the story goes on several tangents, with the leather never gaining the center stage, remaining merely a demi-caractère. It is not that Kelly Calèche lacks beauty. The fragrance is certainly as elegant and refined as any other Hermès perfumes. Yet, in contrast to the recent Hermès launches, Kelly Calèche lacks clarity. The limpid mossy drydown is my least favorite part of the fragrance. I cannot describe the effect by any other word other than “muddled,” since the development of the fragrance does not follow the beautiful progression I typically find in Ellena’s compositions. With the core of a fragrance being murky, the entire composition loses its allure. Moreover, without understanding the message the perfumer intended, one cannot be moved on an emotional level. Unfortunately, this is the case of Kelly Calèche for me.
Kelly Calèche includes notes of leather, iris, mimosa, tuberose, lily of the valley. In 2009, the Eau de Parfum was added to the collection. The EDP includes notes of rose, violet, lambskin, leather, and vanilla. It plays up the floral notes of the original EDT, and this makes for a lovely effect—more floral than leather, but somehow more coherent and clear than the original. Pure perfume was launched in 2008, and it is composed of iris, jasmine, mimosa, tuberose, leather, and benzoin. Heavier yet on florals than the EDP, it also possesses a subtle oriental balsamic facet, which is interesting. Out of three formulations, my favorite is the EDP.
Ouch! I was hoping Kelly Caleche would pay homage to my favorite fragrant jewel from Hermes, Doblis. It does not even come close to the sensuous, womanly feel of Doblis. What a shame!
Hugs!
Posted by: violetnoir | July 16, 2009 at 11:49
R, I would give anything to have a reissue of Doblis, but I fear that it might reappear in such an attenuated form that it would defeat the purpose.
And while we are at it, the first feminine leather for Hermes was Doblis!
Posted by: Boisdejasmin | July 16, 2009 at 13:03
Wanted to love this one, but it was just "there" on the skin. It didn't go any place. I completely agree about it's inability to evoke any emotion. "Muddled" is a good description. It reminded me of a too vigorous mixing of beautiful paint colors that end up that horrible brown/gray. By the way, why the pink? I am always influenced by the color of the juice. Do you think it would have had a different effect in a diffirent color, say, tan or clear?
Posted by: MJ | July 16, 2009 at 23:17
I got a bottle of Kelly Caleche for my birthday, and I wore it at first every day, but after a while I got bored with it. It's not as memorable as some other Hermes fragrances.
Posted by: Sveta | July 17, 2009 at 09:44
Paradoxically, this review makes me want to smell Kelly Caleche!
Posted by: Clara M | July 17, 2009 at 12:16
I remember trying Kelly Cache a while back. I don't remember what i thought of it (which probably says it all..:)).
Posted by: Lavanya | July 17, 2009 at 13:29
If the scent was so lovely in your mind, it seems clear to me what the next step is, dear genius V...
;)
Thinking about this just a little more--I wonder if you find almost-but-not-quite scents like this inspiring, in a way? I find I am sometimes inspired to write by books that don't quite meet my expectations in some way. They make it possible for me to see where I might contribute (and they make me feel that a flawed, but enjoyable product is sometimes just as valuable as perfect, but unapproachable one...)
Posted by: sweetlife | July 19, 2009 at 09:34
On me, the leather of Kelly Calèche blooms into the scent of sun warmed leather gloves holding roses. I wish it did this for you, V. I find it very lovely.
Posted by: Luminous Phenomena | July 19, 2009 at 20:38
well i haven't sniffed this.so i cannot give any comments yet- but if it turned out to be a dissapointment,thats a big shme - i was hoping for a new and glorious angels leather accord!
Posted by: scentaddict | July 20, 2009 at 08:03
well i haven't sniffed this.so i cannot give any comments yet- but if it turned out to be a dissapointment,thats a big shme - i was hoping for a new and glorious angels leather accord!
Posted by: scentaddict | July 20, 2009 at 08:03
MJ, I wonder... The color was actually pretty as a part of the whole packaging scheme. However, tan would be lovelier, in my opinion.
Posted by: Boisdejasmin | July 20, 2009 at 09:11
Sveta, I wore it on and off trying to understand it, but I think that I have now given up.
Posted by: Boisdejasmin | July 20, 2009 at 09:11
Clara, you should definitely smell it! You might have a different opinion.
Posted by: Boisdejasmin | July 20, 2009 at 09:12
Lavanya, yes, it does! :)
Posted by: Boisdejasmin | July 20, 2009 at 09:12
Alyssa, you are right, things that are not quite there are often inspiring in many ways. Consider, Coty Chypre and Guerlain Mitsouko. Chypre was magnificent, but very rough and almost barbaric. Guerlain took that idea and polished it. There are so many examples like this.
What I find most interesting about Kelly Caleche are its various separate elements, citrusy top, floral heart, mossy-chypre accord...
Posted by: Boisdejasmin | July 20, 2009 at 09:16
Luminous Phenomena, what a beautiful image! Thank you for sharing. Now I will be looking for a fragrance with that idea!
Posted by: Boisdejasmin | July 20, 2009 at 09:16
Scentaddict, well, now I am looking forward to Ellena's next work for Hermes. I am sure that there will be plenty of interesting things.
Posted by: Boisdejasmin | July 20, 2009 at 09:17
Dear BDJ, as someone who creates fragrances myself( i am based in Nigeria and self taught) i know how hard it can be living up to peoples expectations all the time.
People have different tastes and preferences, however when a perfumer of the likes of JCE creates a scent one always seems to expect another great classic of the likes of Van cleef's first!.
When evaluating other brands perfumes it's like trading places with the consumers' for once
Anyway as you have said lets hope there will be more interesting stuff coming from him in the future- fingers crossed!
Posted by: scentaddict | July 21, 2009 at 08:33
I find Kelly Calèche to be a good rendition of water-gorged petals -- and by that, I mean flowers in a puddle -- but as for leather, not so good. I know it comes out on many people, and I think that promise of leather was a source of great disappointment to the ones who didn't elicit that note...
I guess I've pretty much given in on it too, but as always, I'll be up there to smell the next JCE early next year.
Posted by: carmencanada | July 21, 2009 at 14:18
Scentaddict, you are absolutely right! It is hard to live up to other people's expectations, and we always are more critical of those we hold in high esteem. :)
Posted by: Boisdejasmin | July 22, 2009 at 11:02
D, flowers in a puddle is an apt description! I just cannot get past that muddy mossy drydown. Otherwise, I really like certain facets of the composition.
Posted by: Boisdejasmin | July 22, 2009 at 11:03
Smelled great and interesting on paper, not so great actually on me. Not much leather there. Oh well.
Posted by: ppr | July 26, 2009 at 12:49
I too was disappointed by Kelly Caleche. It intrigues me, but I don't enjoy wearing it. I keep the bottle just to sniff it in the air once in a while.
Posted by: Tara C | July 28, 2009 at 14:11
PPR, yes, I did not get much leather either. Well, in the meantime I can enjoy my Cuir de Russie for my leather fix.
Posted by: Boisdejasmin | July 29, 2009 at 12:22
Tara, I have a large decant on my desk, and I too smell time to time. The reason it took me so long to decide on Kelly Caleche had to do with my inability to give up on it so easily.
Posted by: Boisdejasmin | July 29, 2009 at 12:24
It sounds like everybody seems to have been disappointed and it works out as an expensive air freshener.
Posted by: Find Fragrances | August 06, 2009 at 04:33
A beautiful and classy fragrance. Thanks for sharing!
Posted by: Antonio | August 14, 2009 at 11:15
I have found Kelly Caleche to be a really wearable day-time fragrance that smells quite peppery on me and I do get a hit of leather too. However, most people I know seem to prefer Eau de Merveilles instead which I bought at the same time. I think therein lies the beauty of mystery of scent: that one person can dislike it, one can find it blah and someone else can adore it!
Posted by: Freya E | August 25, 2009 at 11:24
OH, I was a die hard Caleche fan, until Kelly. The leather note does tend to tone down quickly, but it is still more multi-layered and richer than Caleche. It has become my favorite, my signature fragrance.
Posted by: Lissette | September 13, 2009 at 23:42
I found the KC EdP a confusing mishmash of floral notes with absolutely no leather. The EdT however stole my heart. It is no wimpy excuse of a leather fragrance, but rather, grabs you and smacks you with its initial leatheriness (much stronger leather than Bandit). Also too, praise be to the perfume Gods, the leather in this never leaves and is always there as an underpinning to the delicate florals. Although this was marketed to a younger crowd, I find it very sophisticated and restrained. The EdT has good, not great, lasting power of about 3 - 4 hours. I have a hard time NOT reaching for this one in my cluttered perfume cupboard. It's love. Now, can someone tell me how the extrait treats the leather note? Very curious, since I find the EdP and EdT in this completely different fragrances.
Posted by: hollyc | February 06, 2011 at 10:59
Holly, I am curious myself, because the EdT and EdP are so different. unfortunately Hermes boutique does not have a tester.
Posted by: Victoria | February 06, 2011 at 16:12
I remember trying Kelly Cache a while back. I don't remember what i thought of it
Posted by: birkin | December 28, 2011 at 14:27