Hermes Hiris Perfume Review

Star rating: 5 stars--outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars--very good, 3 stars--adequate, 2 stars--disappointing, 1 star--poor.

The most surprising aspect of Hermès Hiris is the contrast between the softness of its composition and the strength of its character. Created in 1999 by perfumer Olivia Giacobetti, it exemplifies the style of perfumery that she went on to cultivate—linear, pastel toned etudes that are nevertheless quite memorable and distinctive. The iris in Hiris is a bold, vibrant note, yet wrapped in a soft aldehydic accord as if in layers of tulle. It appears cool, abstract and luminous. Perhaps this teasing, distant iris, like a vision of something beautiful through the fog, is what gives Hiris its introspective aura.

While the fragrance opens up with the effervescence of aldehydes, their waxy-citrusy nuances are evident even in the vanilla accented drydown. As the aldehydes settle down, other elements of the composition become clear—the violet petals reminiscent of the powder on a swan down puff, the metallic crispness suggesting starched linen, the subtle sensuality of orange blossom, and finally, the smoothness of blond woods. The structure of Hiris is rendered luminous and transparent to such a degree that even the opaque and heavy powdery violet note used to reinforce the iris does not detract from the overall airy sensation. A hint of powder is in fact alluring, as it provides a lovely juxtaposition with the fresh green floral heart.

Smelling Hiris recently made me poignantly aware how much my scent perceptions have changed since I first smelled it 10 years ago. Then it struck me as a sophisticated and mature fragrance, requiring red lipstick and a manicure to match its lady-like demeanor. Today I still find it elegant, but above all, it conveys to me a lighthearted, effortless elegance, a comfort in one’s own skin. Wearing Hiris, I feel serene and content. While it is an unobtrusive fragrance, it is definitely one that makes others lean in and inquire, “What are you wearing? You smell so good.”

Hermès Hiris (fragrance family: soft floral or aldehydic floral) includes notes of orange flower, rose, coriander, iris, cedarwood, ambrette seeds, vanilla. It is related to Frederic Malle Iris Poudre, although it is much more delicate, as well as to Serge Lutens Bas de Soie and Annick Goutal Heure Exquise in terms of setting strong iris notes into an aldehydic frame. In contrast to Hermes Iris Ukiyoe, it is quite warm and soft. Hiris is available from Hermès boutiques as well as from various retailers, such as Neiman Marcus, Barneys New York, Bergdorf Goodman.

Comments

[Olfactoria]

This is one of the very few positive reviews I have ever read of Hiris. You make it sound so attractive, iI nave put it on my sniff list immediately. Especially the comparison to Iris Ukoiye was very helpful, thank you.

[Marina]

I love you put it, "a soft aldehydic accord as if in layers of tulle".

[Victoria]

@Olfactoria
It is a beautiful fragrance, that is well-done, well-balanced and original in its treatment of iris. Now that we have seen so many linear, minimalistic compositions, its impact may not appear great, but 10 years ago it was a novelty. I remember people saying, "it is not a fragrance, it is an accord, it is not finished, etc...." And yet, here it is still.
Another thing is that it has a strong powdery violet note, which some may not like.
Funny, today I woke up craving Dan Tes Bras, and I just saw your lovely review! :)

[Victoria]

@Marina
For such a light fragrance, it is surprisingly strong. I wore it yesterday and sprayed some on a blotter. The room where I left the blotter is filled with Hiris!

[Sveta]

I can't believe that I haven't smelled it yet! It sounds beautiful, a little bit vintage even. Will try to stop by Barney's during my lunch break.

[Olfactoria]

I have no problem with violet, I love its primness ;)
Thank you for the compliment, I am honored.

[Victoria]

@Sveta
Ah, you must smell it. Since you found Iris Ukiyoe too cold and dry, you might enjoy Hiris better. Of course, they are also quite different in many other respects.

[Victoria]

@Olfactoria
You are welcome! I love violets also in various guises, even when they are heavy and powdery. I suppose that the retro style is what appeals to me, although Hiris is quite modern.

[monicar]

my husband gave me hiris when we first started dating...whenever I smelled it i was reminded of those early days.. but lately i sort of forgot about it. thanks for this review and for reminding me that maybe i need to get a new bottle.

[Victoria]

@monicar
Ah, I love those kind of memories. I have a similar memory linked to Serge Lutens A la Nuit. I must say that I also have not worn it in ages.

[Victoria]

@monicar
Ah, I love those kinds of memories. I have a similar memory linked to Serge Lutens A la Nuit. I must say that I also have not worn it in ages.

[March]

I don't expect you to have memorized The Guide, but I'm still baffled as to why they dislike it so much. I think it's really pretty, and thanks for the review.

[Victoria]

@March
I just went to check, and you are right, Luca gave it a one star review, calling it "sad iris." I think that he mostly does not care for Giacobetti's floral accords, which he finds too timid. I agree that it is hardly dramatic, but Hiris is the one fragrance to which I return over and over again. It just intrigues me--it is delicate and soft spoken in some aspects, and in others, it is surprisingly persistent. Elegant and comfortable is how I would describe it.

[Zoltan L.]

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[Victoria]

@Zoltan
Zoltan, thank you, I do not take on advertising, only google adsense for now.

[Musette]

V,

I was just in Hermes last weekend and considered Hiris but moved away, as we were hoping to test Portrait of a Lady and I wanted to stay commando for that. My first Hiris exploration was 'meh' but I am largely anosmic to a lot of irises. Lately, though, they have been coming through (Iris 39, which I love as well as Mythique and Bas de Soie) so perhaps I will revisit it!

Beautiful review, as always. "Layers of tulle" - very evocative....

[Victoria]

A, how did you like Portrait of a Lady?
I just realized that I still have not smelled Mythique. Sometimes I find that a note becomes so trendy that I lose an interest in it (must be the contrarian in me!) It almost happened with iris. Out of all new iris, many of which are objectively quite good, I do not like anything that much. I am remaining true to Hiris, Iris Silver Mist and No 19.

[Victoria]

A, how did you like Portrait of a Lady?
I just realized that I still have not smelled Mythique. Sometimes I find that a note becomes so trendy that I lose an interest in it (must be the contrarian in me!) It almost happened with iris. Out of all new iris, many of which are objectively quite good, I do not like anything that much. I am remaining true to Hiris, Iris Silver Mist and No 19.

[March]

V, thanks for your thoughts. Hiris was, I believe, the first iris scent I tried, or at least the first scent I could consciously identify as "iris," so it holds a place in my heart. And you're right, I think in general they are not fans of Olivia Giacobetti ... it *is* elegant, it conveys to me an oil painting of a group of iris hanging in a quiet corridor in the National Gallery of Art, rather than the actual rooty plants themselves, if that makes any sense.

[Victoria]

March, same for me, I keep thinking of it as the olfactory equivalent of Monet. I still remember how surprised I was by Hiris when I first smelled it, because it was very different from other fragrances I have smelled up till that point. Maybe, if I had smelled it today for the first time, I would not have been as impressed.

[Carla]

Always liked that bottle shape from Hermes, and especially in that color for Hiris. I was always too busy spraying the Jardins to try it, though. I look forward to trying.

[Victoria]

Carla, this is by far my favorite presentation from Hermes. The wrap of that crinkled purple paper looks like an iris petal.