Star rating: 5 stars--outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars--very good, 3 stars--adequate, 2 stars--disappointing, 1 star--poor.
Out of all the gourmand fragrances following in Thierry Mugler Angel ‘s steps, Lolita Lempicka is still the most innovative example. Even when viewed against the whole body of gourmand perfumes launched since 1993, its originality and memorable contrasted character make it stand out. If Angel and Coco Mademoiselle have the dramatic and bold presence of a blonde in a tight red dress, Lolita Lempicka is a mysterious stranger in a black gown. The cleavage is perhaps quite low, but the effect nevertheless remains elegant.
Created in 1997 by perfumer Annick Ménardo, Lolita Lempicka is a gourmand fragrance for those who want to eschew both the sugary prettiness and the cloying opulence of most fragrances in this category. Its main accord of gourmand patchouli derived from Angel is cleverly set against a herbaceous-violet accord which not only lightens the sweetness, but also lends Lolita Lempicka a striking sophistication. The brightness of green herbal notes, punctuated by the cool-spicy anise sets a radiant sensation that uplifts even the heft of the patisserie accord. The iris-violet chord likewise provides a soft, refreshing counterpoint, which elegantly bridges the earthy vetiver and dark balsamic notes of the base.
On the face of it, Lolita Lempicka with all of its candied cherries, pralines, caramels, and cotton candy, should degenerate into a sugar rush pastry fantasy. It is a testament to Ménardo’s talent that she was able to avoid it. This is perhaps not so surprising given how alluring Ménardo made the smell of rubber and smoke in Bulgari Black. Every time I wear Lolita Lempicka, I am amazed anew at its luminous, soaring quality that exists alongside its decadent and sensual aura. A pretty bottle and a gourmand list of notes should not scare men away from trying it, because like Angel, Lolita Lempicka can work surprisingly well as a sexy, masculine perfume.
Lolita Lempicka (fragrance family: woody oriental) includes notes of ivy leaves, anise, iris, violet, Amarena cherry, licorice, praline, vetiver, musk, benzoin, tonka bean, vanilla. Although it is closely related to Thierry Mugler Angel, Chanel Coco Mademoiselle and Prada, its fresh floral accord places it closer to fragrances like Viktor & Rolf Flowerbomb, Estée Lauder Pleasures Delight, Bond No.9 So New York, and Juicy Couture Viva La Juicy.
It's been some time since I've tried this, and your review has renewed my interest, thank you!
Posted by: Carrie Meredith | December 27, 2010 at 01:08
Oh! I just saw that Annick Menardo is the nose responsible for a scent that's capturing my heart at this very moment, Le Labo Patchouli 24, which has a lovely gourmand note to balance the bitterness of the birch tar... that does it, I'm destined to revisit Lolita Lempicka.
Posted by: Carrie Meredith | December 27, 2010 at 01:52
My 18 year old daughter wore this when she was about 15-16. It is ultra feminine , very girl. I do not associate this scent with a more mature wearer like myself. It is a very pretty scent with great sillage though.
Posted by: Madelyn E | December 27, 2010 at 02:16
I just bought this the other day, because I saw it at a great price. After reading this wonderful review, I am indeed glad I did. You describe LL so perfectly, I immediately had to put it on. Once more you mess with my carefully thought out perfume schedule ;)
Posted by: Olfactoria | December 27, 2010 at 05:44
Ah, my Nemesis! Innovative Nemesis, but still...:)
Posted by: Marina | December 27, 2010 at 08:53
I go back to LL time to time, and whenever I do, I am amazed at how well-put this fragrance is!
Posted by: Victoria | December 27, 2010 at 12:46
Then you are definitely destined to revisit it! :) Menardo is one of the most inventive perfumers, and her work is very interesting, whether she does something mainstream or niche.
Posted by: Victoria | December 27, 2010 at 12:48
I know what you mean, associations like that are very difficult to break. For instance, my aunt wears Paris, and while I love this fragrance and admire its creativity, I cannot wear it, because I feel that it is her fragrance. Somehow, it does not feel right on me.
Posted by: Victoria | December 27, 2010 at 12:49
Hey, it is mutual! You've upset my carefully planned perfume wearing schedule more than once already. I have to get back somehow!
(Just teasing you. Please carry on upsetting it! :))
Posted by: Victoria | December 27, 2010 at 12:50
I really need to think if I have a perfume Nemesis. Maybe, Serge Lutens Miel de Bois, which perfectly captures the odors of New York back alleys in the summer heat.
Posted by: Victoria | December 27, 2010 at 12:51
Miel de Bois is my Nemesis to! Perfect rendition of a cat's litter box ;)
Posted by: Olfactoria | December 27, 2010 at 14:27
Birgit, you've nailed it.
Yet, I know people who love this fragrance and find no unsavory associations with it.
Posted by: Victoria | December 27, 2010 at 14:55
Lolita Lempicka was my first perfume, and I still really like it.
I think Annick Menardo is my favorite perfumer, too.
Posted by: Hannah | December 27, 2010 at 15:36
Hannah, it is such a sophisticated fragrance. Despite all of its gourmand notes, it still manages to avoid sugary sweetness. I am wearing it right now and enjoying it tremendously.
Posted by: Victoria | December 27, 2010 at 16:10
I love Lolita Lempicka! I wore it all the time a few years back. To me, the anise takes stage from top to bottom, and the rest of the notes cascade beneath it. LL is very fairytale-like, I think, and the bottle just amplifies that.
Posted by: Joan | December 27, 2010 at 17:20
Completely agree. It is really one of those rare cases, where the marketing and the bottle are in a perfect sync with the scent. Even if I did not like the perfume, I would still want that beautiful apple shaped bottle.
Posted by: Victoria | December 27, 2010 at 18:47
I like LL, not the least because of its associations with my favorite novel of all time("... light of my life; fire of my loins, my sin and my soul.")It reminds me of absinthe, and being gothically inclined, that is never a bad thing.
Posted by: Lynn Morgan | December 27, 2010 at 19:33
Lynn, I also associate it with Tamara Lempicka's paintings of voluptuous women!
Posted by: Victoria | December 27, 2010 at 19:46
Fantastic! One of my favorite painters as well!
Posted by: Lynn Morgan | December 28, 2010 at 19:19
I thought that you might enjoy her work too! :)
Posted by: Victoria | December 28, 2010 at 20:36
I just got this for my wife for her Birthday. I hope she likes it. I bought it blind. It has a beautiful bottle.
Posted by: Micah Vargo | August 03, 2011 at 23:40
Wow!!! what a great review!!..I've been eyeing this perfume for a few weeks now...And after reading your review I'm sold!..I can't wait to see what this smells like on me!
Posted by: Byanca | January 15, 2012 at 16:56
:) I hope that you like it!
Posted by: Victoria | January 15, 2012 at 21:19
I wore this perfume for going out in the evening, as my staple, for a few years in my 20s. Lovely, perfect, flawless, feminine!
Posted by: Aida | January 21, 2012 at 06:45