Star rating: 5 stars--outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars--very good, 3 stars--adequate, 2 stars--disappointing, 1 star--poor.
Although roses interpreted in the warm oriental style have been a popular theme as of late (Armani Privé Rose d'Arabie, Frédéric Malle Portrait of a Lady, etc.,) I keep returning to By Kilian Rose Oud. Opulent and complex, it remains one of my favorite fragrances inspired by the Middle East perfumery tradition. Its beauty comes not just from the particularly fine raw materials—although the lavish use of beautiful rose essences certainly lends it a sumptuous aura -- it is the cleverly played contrast between the accords that makes Rose Oud special. The initial flourish of crimson rose petals belies the classical woody structure of the composition. Rose Oud beckons with its appealing softness of petals, but let it seep into your skin, and you will discover that it is dark, sensual and full of mystery.
The fragrance was created by perfumer Calice Becker, who has a particular talent for crafting very luminous, multifaceted accords, whether she works with flowers or woods. In Rose Oud, her signature is evident in the radiant structure of the composition. Despite the dark oud accord, which is balanced out by the spices and roses, Rose Oud retains a surprisingly gossamer, airy sensation. It unfolds in a modern, panoramic style, presenting first cinnamon and cardamom dusted rose petals and then the dark, smoky woods. As it dries down, the composition continues to deepen, not just attenuate.
Rose should not scare away men from trying Rose Oud, especially if they enjoy Le Labo Rose 31 and Serge Lutens El Attarine. The oud accord, which captures perfectly the dramatic beauty of natural oud essence--from leather to honey, from wood to tobacco—gives Rose Oud a strong woody-animalic character, which is made more refined by the floral notes. It is certainly a Western interpretation of a traditional Middle Eastern oud, and it is done with so much style and elegance that I find it irresistible. Wearing Rose Oud is like donning a sparkling, exotic garment, which nevertheless feels perfectly comfortable and familiar.
By Kilian Rose Oud (fragrance family: woods) includes notes of cardamom, cinnamon, cedarwood, cypriol, saffron, geranium, Bulgarian rose, and rosa centifolia. By Kilian fragrances are sold from Aedes, MiN, Bergdorf Goodman, Saks5thAvenue.
I am just slowly getting fsmiliar wit the line, so your review is incredibly helpful. I love the phrase "continues to deepen not just attenuate". Another must smell, it seems :)
Posted by: Olfactoria | January 03, 2011 at 04:10
So sorry for the typos, *blush* combination of iPhone, cold fingers and to quickly hitting 'post' ;)
Posted by: Olfactoria | January 03, 2011 at 04:12
It is so soft and cushy on me, with nothing particularly dark, although certainly sensual. I don't mind the lack of darkness you describe, because the fragrance is just so pretty, and I have enough dark scents as it is.
Posted by: Marina | January 03, 2011 at 07:22
It is a fragrance I have on my test list. Middle Easter scents that are conceibed with an Occidental touch are of great interest.
Thanks for this visually felt review!
Posted by: Vintage Lady | January 03, 2011 at 08:21
Card-carrying rose ho, here!
I've basically refused to try this line because of the Clive Christian-inspired aspirational pricing; but your review is making me want to investigate these refill bottles I hear tell of...
Sounds so good :)
Posted by: dee | January 03, 2011 at 09:28
D, in this case, I am more than willing to pay the price, because I can just smell how excellent the materials are. Granted, you pay for the bottle, the luxurious packaging, but without doubt, the fragrance is luxurious too.
Posted by: Victoria | January 03, 2011 at 10:33
I love these kinds of fragrances, from Shalimar and Emeraude to Portrait of a Lady and Rose Oud. The blend of French aesthetic and Middle Eastern flair is very appealing to me.
Posted by: Victoria | January 03, 2011 at 10:34
I find the oud-sandalwood accord quite dark, as it settles on my skin. That being said, Pure Oud is an even dark woods blend. I love it too, but I wear Rose Oud much more often.
Posted by: Victoria | January 03, 2011 at 10:35
Oh, no worries! Whenever I type from my Blackberry, I am embarrassed to discover later how many typos I make.
Posted by: Victoria | January 03, 2011 at 10:36
It is my favorite so far, although I also love Back to Black for its dark Hababita/Tabu richness. It is another one on my to-review list. Pure Oud is one of the best Western oud renditions, where the oud is presented without much embellishment.
Posted by: Victoria | January 03, 2011 at 10:38
Hi and Happy New Year to all!
I was wondering how does Rose
oud compare to Amouage Lyric
Woman, if it compares at all?
Thanks
Posted by: Lidia | January 03, 2011 at 14:50
I had the opportunity to witness the presentation of this perfume in my country and I fully agree with everything you've said here, I had not been able to better or myself!
Posted by: Bolsa | January 03, 2011 at 15:47
Linda, Happy New Year to you too!
Lyric Woman is a more blended fragrance, with lots of different components, and as a result, it is a more abstract rose. Plus, it has a really pronounced incense note, and the rose notes are front and center.
Rose Oud is simpler in structure, and when I wear it, I really feel that it is a marriage between rose and dark woods, with few other notes distracting from this dramatic pairing. The rose is evenly balanced with oud.
Posted by: Victoria | January 03, 2011 at 18:23
Bolsa, I am glad to hear it, thank you!
Posted by: Victoria | January 03, 2011 at 18:23
Oh lord...looks like I need to test this one. I love cardamom!
Hugs!
Posted by: violetnoir | January 03, 2011 at 20:40
Oh, the cardamom note is a nice accent here. Overall, my favorite oud these days!
Posted by: Victoria | January 03, 2011 at 21:00
Could u please recommend some rose perfumes for men (if any)? Just throw some names at me. If there aren't any roses for men, then I'll just have to start wearing the women's ones, and if I should happen to be queried at work why I smell of roses, I'll just lie and tell my colleagues I'm wearing a manly, rose-centred cologne
Posted by: Kevy | February 05, 2011 at 07:37
How about Serge Lutens Rose de Nuit, Frederic Malle Une Rose, L'Artisan Voleur de Roses, Agent Provocateur? They have nice rose notes, but they do not smell like dainty, tea roses. The first three can definitely work as unisex fragrances and they are even designed to be. AP can work for both men and women. Also Frederic Malle Geranium Pour Homme, which has a nice, crisp rose-citrusy note.
Posted by: Victoria | February 05, 2011 at 11:08
I just found your blog, and I love it! I have a question about Rose Oud. The Saks 5th website only list Eau de Parfum, not Parfum.
Were you writing about the parfum or eau de parfum? My favorite perfume is 1000, and the perfume and the eau de parfum are noticeably different. To me, anyway.
Thanks!
Martha
Posted by: Martha1108 | February 08, 2011 at 00:35
Martha, thank you and welcome!
I was writing about Eau de Parfum. I believe it is the only concentration available.
Posted by: Victoria | February 08, 2011 at 08:06
I LOVE this fragrance & im a guy so its definitely one only for the ladies! When so many fragrances are bland & unmemorable this one hit me as soon as i tried it. Luckily in the store i bought it in they had the beautiful silver travel spray (oddly this is VERY heavy, beautifully made with a clever magnetic lid & cost £60 whereas Tom Ford charges £150 for his atomisers which are much cheaper & nastier & more plasticky) - because i had bought the travel atomiser i was able to purchase the 100ml refill which worked out at half the price of buying the 50ml in the proper bottle would have cost so i didnt begrudge the expense!
Posted by: nathanthomas | March 01, 2011 at 18:37
PS excuse the typo - i meant 'definitely NOT one only for the ladies'!
Posted by: nathanthomas | March 01, 2011 at 18:38
As much as I want to complain about the expense of the packaging, it is so great and so well-done that I really do not mind. Plus, I love the option of a less expensive refill.
I am glad to hear that you wear Rose Oud. I really think that it works well on men.
Posted by: Victoria | March 01, 2011 at 21:01